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CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
Across the Apennines-From Bologna to Florence-A Patriotic
Florentine-Engineering Difficulties-The Val Reno-Numerous
Tunnels-Marzabotto-M. Aria's Villa-Remarkable Collection
of Antiquities-Huge Locomotives-Porretta-Sulphurous Springs
-The Crest Tunnel-A Dish of Crows' Gizzards-Campaniles-
Val Brana-Val Pistoia-Arrive at Florence
PAGE 1
CHAPTER II.
Hôtel de la Grande Bretagne-Quick Life-pulses-The Piedmontese
and their Gutturals-Dialects in Italy-Crowded Streets-Via dei
Bardi-Remarkable Slope-Fortezza di Belvedere-A Florence
Palace-Americans in Florence-Search for Apartments-Their
High Price-Casa Guidi―Inscription to the Memory of Mrs.
Browning-My Quarters-The Casa Schneiderf-A comfortable
Pension-Restaurants in Florence-The Luna Trattoria-Restau-
rant de Paris-The Fenice-The Florence Flower-Girls-Smoking
at Dinner-Price of Fuel-The Eight Winds of Florence-Prices
of Provisions-Cost of living in Florence, past and present-The
Sham Footman-Riding Horses-'La Traviata'-Riding Ponies
-Game of Ruzzola-Rides in the Apennines
12
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CHAPTER III.
Changes in Florence-Crowded Thoroughfares-Reckless Driving
-The New Police-Scavengers-The Corsi Palace-Palace Wine-
taps New Shops-Ancient Law respecting Bankrupts-The
young Bohemians of Florence-Their Playing-ground-The Mer-
cato Vecchio-Butchers' Shops-Small Birds-Vendors of Knives
-A dangerous Weapon-The Ghetto of Florence-Edicts respect-
ing the Jews-A Salted Jew-Old Clothes' Shops-Curiosities-
Synagogues-Names of Streets-Medieval Restorations - The
Loggia del Bigallo-Project of adding a Spire to Giotto's Campanile
-Façade of the Duomo-Cenacolo in Ancient Refectory of former
Convent of Santa Croce-Florence Land and Public Works Com-
pany-Destruction of Ancient Walls-New Boulevard and Squares
-Protestant Cemetery-Number of Burials-Tombs of Walter
Savage Landor, Southwood Smith, Mrs. Browning-Proposed
new Quarter-Nature of Houses-New Thoroughfares-Proposed
Hotel at Fiesole-Want of a large Hotel near Florence PAGE 32
CHAPTER IV.
Character of the Florentines-A Gente Beffarda-The Old Grand
Dukes-Their manner of Rule-Gossip in Florence-The Caffés
--The Barbers-The Young Florentines and Shaving-Steele's
Barber—Scandal in Florence—Its effect on Society—The British
Court-Victor Emmanuel-His love for the Ballet-'Les Pieds
qui r'muent'-Pretty Ballerine-Napoleon I. and the Danseuses at
the Paris Opera-Moral Relations in Florence-Marriages—How
managed-A Servile Cicisbeo-A Story of an Establishment at
Turin-Masked and Fancy Balls-Fanciful Costumes-A Bac-
chante-Receptions of the British Minister-Soft Contentments'
-Beauty of the Florentines-Loud Voices-Theatres-Dinner
Parties-Amusements of Men and Women--Want of a Public
Garden-Florence Cremornes in Prospect
55
CHAPTER V.
The Carnival at Florence-Throwing of Bouquets and Bonbons—
Carnival at Milan-Masked Balls-The Veglioni at the Pergola
-A Bishop and the Cancan-Fast Characters-Suppers in the
Private Boxes An elegant Entertainment - Byron's Specific
against Dulness-Masquerades at Venice-The Ridotto-Masked
Balls at the Goldoni-Brawls-A fatal Quarrel-The 'Cattivi'
Piedmontese
PAGE 69
CHAPTER VI.
The Churches of Florence-San Maria del Fiore-Decree respecting
its Construction-San Giovanni-Religious Services—The Cat in
the Duomo-The Dog and the Devil-The Pope and Plenary
Indulgence-Former Religious State of Florence-Iron Cross in
Pisa-Garibaldi's Advice respecting Priests-The Trinity of
Rome-Religious Ceremonies in Santa Croce-Military Services-
Santa Maria Novella Santo Spirito Army Chaplains in
Italy
77
CHAPTER VII.
State of Religion in Florence-San Antonio and the Farmers—
Religious Caricatures-Il Governo Temporale-Three Religious
Classes in Italy-The Codini-Padre Passaglia—His Life—He fur-
nishes the Pope with Authorities for propounding the Immaculate
Conception Dogma-Goes to Turin-Influence of Cavour-Change
in Passaglia's Sentiments-Catholic Reform Party-Leaders of
the Movement-Their Organs—Giù Il Temporale-Garibaldi's
Address-Curious Print-The Società Empancipatrice-Their Re-
ligious Opinions-Coleridge's Guide-Stability of the Roman
Catholic Religion-Protestantism in Italy-De Sanctis-Protestant
Theological College in Florence-Montesquieu on the Catholic and
Protestant Religions-L'Amico di Casa-Eco della Verità--Circu-
lation of the New Testament in Florence-The Barletto Tragedy-
Progress of Religious Liberty in Italy-The Bishops and the
Papacy-Suppression of Religious Establishments-Number of
Monks, &c. in Italy-Revenue derivable from secularisation of
Ecclesiastical Property-Pensions to Members of Religious Orders
-Preservation of celebrated Monasteries-Law respecting Manu-
scripts and Art Treasures-Monte Cassino-San Marco-Savona-
rola-His Cell-Fra Angelica's Frescoes-The Spezieria of San
Marco
PAGE 87
CHAPTER VIII.
The Military Establishments in Florence-The Cavalry Barracks-
Their dirty Condition-Troop Horses-The Soldiers' Quarters
Guns and Pistols-Desire to fight the Tedeschi-The Infantry
Barracks-The Infirmary-Prison-Fortezza da Basso-Physical
Appearance of the Men-The Bersaglieri-Lord Clyde's Opinion
of them-Rations-Court Martial on a Lieutenant-Piedmontese
Officers-Their great preponderance in the Italian Army-Growth
of the Italian Army-Force at the beginning of 1866-Organisa-
tion-Manner in which it is recruited-Love of the Army for
Victor Emmanuel-His Address to his Soldiers after the taking of
Palestro-Elected Corporal of a Zouave Regiment His reported
curious mistake respecting the Champion of England-Willingness
of the Italians to fight for their Country-Isabella of Arragon
and the Wounded Colonel-Italian Heroes and fair Floren-
tines 114
CHAPTER IX.
The Italian Parliament-Its similarity to the British House of
Commons-A Popular Demonstration-Idiosyncrasies of Irish and
Italians-A Stump Orator-Venice and Rome-An unpleasant
Squeeze The Palazzo Vecchio-Florence and Government Spies-
Wise Policy of the present Government. The Cinque Cento
Hall-La Vacca Muglia-Recent Inscription commemorating the
Annexation of Tuscany to the Kingdom of Italy. Vasari's
Frescoes-Adaptation of the Hall for the Parliament-The Pre-
sident Classification of the Deputies-Signor Scialoja — His
Financial Speech-Its effect on the Public-Government Re-
porters-Women Reporters-Love for Speaking-Refreshments-
Duels between the Deputies-Meeting of the Senate-Ancient
Court Theatre-Lengthy Dramatic Performances-Michael An-
gelo's 'Fiera '-Description of the Senate Hall-Oratory of the
Senators
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