having been all abolished without exception. How far a modification, instead of the violent, and in most instances cruel plan of total destruction would have been preferable, I shall not discuss. Certainly, a sudden overthrow of ancient establishments occasions, in all cases, much misery, and in religious ones peculiar sorrows. Those who have long lived secluded, feel unwillingness and pain in returning to the bustle of common life: their habits have all formed themselves to a contemplative one; their avocations are entirely different from those of others; and their devotion to the service of God, has rendered the common pursuits of the world insipid, if not unpalatable. Females, in such a case, of noble or genteel families, and those of a devout and sublime cast of mind, are peculiar objects of compassion.

As it was the fair day, we saw, previous to our departure, a great number of people assembled in the marketplace. The cattle, particularly the cows, were very fine, and the horses of a great size; but the pigs were most miserable in appearance and condition-a fact which very ill agreed with the excellent farming we had witnessed. In the fair, hats, shoes, a great profusion of ready-made clothes, earthen ware, shawls, muslins, cottons, buckles, baskets, coarse linen, and woollen stockings, were exhibited for sale. The inn at Cassel afforded every thing very good, though there was not much elegance in the house or furniture.

The descent, on leaving Cassel, was equally beautiful and extraordinary with the ascent; and we continued on our way to Lisle to pass through a finely-cultivated country, whose rich crops of wheat, oats, &c. waved in full luxuriance before us; amongst which I observed one of the poppies, which had a beautiful effect. We this day commenced our readings. I began Joseph Andrews; the day, however, had become extremely hot, and made this less pleasant than otherwise. Mr. Fox was much amused by

our book; and though we all subsequently agreed as to the vulgarity, a little too prevalent in Fielding's novels, yet his faithful and admirable paintings from human nature afforded us great pleasure. The introduction of such an author upon our journey, when the monotony of a road, or part of the country, would otherwise have fatigued, was very agreeable. For my part, I enjoyed Mr. Fox's lively remarks on Fielding a great deal; and, as I never made obsequiousness to his opinions a part of my conduct, I dissented from him occasionally with perfect freedom; and so happy was his disposition, so entirely exempt from any kind of impatience, or assumption of superiority, that he relished conversation the more, and seemed better satisfied on finding that independence of opinion in his own small circle, which, in a narrow or larger sphere of life, gives the best zest to society.

At these times his conversation was playful, and natural in a high degree; and, as in all other things, the most minute touch of nature never escaped him. As Mrs. Fox's good-nature never allowed me to have an uneasy moment, and as she disdained to give superfluous trouble, we rattled along in a very pleasant manner, going through Billeul, an ugly town, and some other country towns, and, with the help of Joseph Andrews, found not a weary moment. In most of these towns I observed the tree of liberty planted and growing, This memorial of the fury of late events recalled many unpleasant ideas. It stood as evidence of the weakness, and of the miseries of man, and shewed that when he aims at theoretic perfection, and legislates with the phrenzy of an innovator, his efforts for the melioration of his condition must all be futile In most places the tree of liberty, though undisturbed, looked sickly; and as I cast a glance on its fading leaves, I could not but think of the sublime apostrophe made by liberty in her last agonies, by one of the very brightest of France's ornaments, in her revolutionary days, Madame Roland. Yet the excesses into which the French were driven, are not less entitled to

pity than to blame; and I have often thought that those guilty and profligate governments, which have since affected to derive strength from this deplorable manifestation of the people's rage and extravagance, ought rather to have imbibed a salutary lesson, and have felt that the tremendous castigation which thus falls upon a government, is sooner or later the inevitable result of its own blind misconduct : but men in power are seldom endowed with feelings liberal enough to do justice to the middle and lower classes of men, or they are too hypocritical to admit the truth. The exasperation of the multitude seldom exceeds the boundaries of law and order, till they feel convinced that their complaints are unavailing; and the pressure of taxation co-operating, they rush forward, and if they do not justly correct their rulers, they at least afford a warning to posterity, that moderation best secures a government, and that corruption cannot withstand popular despair. Yet the faded tree of liberty filled me with sorrow. I sighed over the inevitable result of the revolution in France, arising from the preponderance of bad men and turbulent factions. The tree is faded, thought I, but the rights of man will endure for ever. Dynasties may be erected, generals become monarchs, the people be depressed, but liberty is enthroned in the heart of man, is the boon of his Creator, and the cloudless jewel of life. Liberty will revive, and when the despot sleeps beneath his pompous monument, will bestow on millions precious gifts. As we approached Lisle, I shut Joseph Andrews, and a new scene opened before me.

CHAPTER V.

ON entering Lisle, a difference was very manifest between it and the towns and country we had lately passed. Every thing here was French. The people, the dresses, and manners were no longer Flemish. The town is large

and handsome, though somewhat decayed, and the carved stone fronts of most of the houses in the great square have a very rich effect, It is said to have contained before the revolution 76,000 inhabitants, now, however, but 53,000. There were 3000 troops in it. I saw about twelve or fifteen exceeding good hackney coaches, but not one gentleman's carriage; and this is the more remarkable, because there were formerly not less than three hundred of the noblesse in it. This was one of the first striking effects of a revolution which had cost so much blood. In the year 1802, that revolution having performed the various changes in its eccentric course, approached its term. new dynasty was then silently raising its head, and preparing, upon the improved and regenerated state, to erect one of the most imposing political superstructures that has ever appeared. The nobility in Lisle had disappeared, and, doubtless, when that order becomes so ridiculous and numerous as it had become under the latter Bourbons, it calls for reform and change; but the destruction of the privileged orders requires in time that it be replaced by some others.

A

Every possible attention was paid to Mr. Fox at Lisle; the municipal officers waited upon, and the inhabitants, and officers quartered there, vied with each other in politeness. He was invited on the day succeeding his arrival, to a public dinner, given by the town, and I believe, the garrison united, and consequently we remained a day longer than we had intended. On the morning of this day we saw the library and collection of pictures, neither of which are very remarkable: as also the central school, at which are taught drawing, natural history, mathematics, physics, history and chemistry. These schools, which have national support, I understand are not popular, and none but the poorest people send their children to them. In matters of education it is often found, that where the government interferes, the intended object is not attained. The pride and the prejudices of the people act against them and unles in the higher departments of education, where the system is good and under the immediate encouragement of the head of the government, instruction is deemed rather of an eleemosynary nature, and the dispensing it, as well as the general management, is apt to be converted into a job.

A pleasant incident occurred on the morning of our second day at Lisle. The waiter threw open the door of our apartment, announcing lieutenant-general O'Mara. A large and fine figure of a man, in full regimentals, entered and introduced himself to Mr. Fox. He was an Irishman, or rather of Irish extraction, having been born in France, and having served in the French armies since his earliest youth. He had naturally desired to see Mr. Fox, and hoped, through his good offices, to be allowed a short time of leave to behold what he considered his native land. Reader, imagine, that strength of feeling, that sympathy and yearning for one's country, which this brave officer felt!! He spoke a little English, and, what is singular, with an Irish brogue; and this was a peculiarity which as I was assured, he showed in common with many other