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LETTER XXXI.
Departure from Rome. Terni: its valley, town, and cascade,
otherwise called "La Caduta delle Marmore." Perugia
and its lake, formerly called the Lake of Thrasymene.
Arezzo, or Arregio. Anecdote illustrative of the terror
which the French name inspires in Italy. Vale of Arno.
Florence. King of Etruria. Bologna., Accident and
singular rencontre between Bologna and Ferrara. Fer-
rara. San Urico. Padua. Churches and buildings there.
Mestre. Passage thence to Venice. Arrival there
154
LETTER XXXII.
First view of Venice. Gondolas. Venetian Ladies. Sketch
of the history of Venice. Detailed account of Venice.
Place of St. Mark. Ancient pillars. Church of St. Mark.
Ducal palace. Rooms and pictures there. State prisons,
or Sotto i Piombi. Prigioni Nuovi. The Broglio. Zecca,
or mint. Procuratie Nuovi. Procuratie Antique. Church
of S. Germiniano. Belfry of St. Mark. Geographical
divisions of Venice. Church of S. Zaccharia. La Pieta.
Il Sepolchro. Bridge of the Rialto. Piazza Santi Giovanni
e Paolo. S. Francesco della Vigna. Arsenal of Venice.
Palazzo Barbarigo, called La Scuola del Titiano. Pictures
there. Southern part of Venice. La Salute. The Do-
gana di Mare. San Georgio Maggiore. Il Redentore.
General remarks on society, manners, and morals at Ve-
nice. Dress of the ladies. Anecdote relating to the same.
Cicesbeos. Cassinos. The opera. Lodgings and living
at Venice
175
LETTER XXXIII.
Reflexions on leaving Italy. Summary of the author's tour
through that country, and general remarks on the same
213
LETTER XXXIV.
Journey from Venice to Vienna. Mestre. Conegliano. The
passage of the Tagliamento. Pontieba. Entrance into
Germany. Change of character. German postboy. Wil-
lack.
Klakenfurt. Palace, garden, and conversation of
the prince-bishop of Salm. Newmarkt. Knuttelfeld.
Marhoffen. Schoffwein. German beds. German apathy.
German landlords. Necessity of making previous ar-
rangements in Germany, as well as in Italy and France.
Proof of that necessity. Arrival at Vienna. Examina-
tion at the gates
LETTER XXXV.
235
General remarks on Vienna. The Prater. Cathedral church
of St. Stephen. Imperial palace. Theatre of the court.
Imperial library. Imperial museum, or collection of mi-
nerals and precious stones. Imperial cabinet of antiqui-
ties. Engraved stones and medals. Cabinet containing
the treasures of the crown. Imperial arsenal. The Belve-
dere palace. Pictures there. Capuchin convent, con-
taining the tombs of the emperors. Hotel of prince
Lichtenstein. Pictures there. Imperial collection of na-
tural history. Imperial porcelain manufactory. Suburb
of Josephstad. Anatomical collection. Civil hospital.
Tower containing persons afflicted with lunacy. Military
hospital. Lying-in hospital. Institution of "Enfans
trouvés." The Augarten. Imperial palace of Schoen-
Brunn. Traiteur there, and stage-waggons. Anecdotes
of Joseph II. Institution in favor of the deaf and dumb.
Luxembourg, an imperial palace in the vicinity of Vienna.
Description of the same. Expedition to Dombach, a villa
formerly belonging to general Lascy. Theatres at Vienna.
National theatre. Karntner Thor theatre. Theatre of
Weden
250
LETTER XXXVI.
Hospitality of the Austrians. Division of ranks among the
nobility. The first class entirely separated from the
second. Necessity of foreigners being presented at court.
The emperor receives every body who chooses to see him,
once a week. Anecdote relating to that custom. Ceremony
of presentation to the emperor. Gracious manner and
conversation of his imperial majesty. The emperor stays
in his cabinet from six in the morning till night every
Wednesday, occupied in seeing in their turn petitioners of
all ranks. Anecdote of a countryman thus admitted to a
conference with his sovereign. Ceremony of a lady's pre-
sentation to the emperor. Presentation to the empress.
Conversation with the empress. Introduction to the mini-
ster.
Dinner at the house of count Cobenzel, the prime
minister. Dinners of the Austrians. Hours at Vienna.
Dinner at the house of count Charles Zechy, minister of fi-
nance. His country-house. Ball at the same. Ball at
princess Esterhazy's. Mr. Paget (our minister): his man-
ner of living. Dinner given by him on the king's birth-
day. The corps diplomatique. Count Rasowmoski, the
Russian ambassador. Count Schonfeld, minister from the
elector of Saxony. Civilities received from the latter.
Evening parties of the first class of nobility. Visits ne-
cessary to be paid in return for dinners. Second class of
nobility equally magnificent in their entertainments. Mer
chants excluded from the society of the latter. Dinner
at M. de Puthon's, a banker. Polish society the most dissi-
pated at Vienna. Tyranny of the Polish chiefs over their
vassals. Anecdote of the same. Ceremony of Fête-Dieu.
Reflexions on this procession, and on a similar one seen
by the author thirteen years before at Paris
298
LETTER XXXVII.
The imperial family. The archduke Charles. His supposed
antipathy to England. His appearance, character, &c.
The other members of the imperial and royal house of
Austria. Remarks on the conduct of the emperor with re-
gard to La Fayette and the partition of Poland. Political
facts, and note relating to the provocations which have
forced Austria to renew the war. Anxious desire of the
Austrians of all ranks to preserve peace with France in the
year 1803. Reasons of that sentiment. Madame de Stael's
novel forbidden here, by the desire of the French ambas-
sador. Pictures claimed by him and given up in the Bel-
vedere palace. Austrian army. Character of the imperial
ministers, and of the emperor, General hospitality of the
Austrians. Vienna now the pleasantest city on the conti-
nent. Count and countess P. Their son a child of ex-
traordinary and wonderful genius. State of the fortunes
of the Austrian nobility. Anecdote characteristic of Ger-
man obstinacy. No salaries given to the inferior officers
of government. State of literature at Vienna. British re-
sidents. Carriages of Vienna. Servants, and style of
dress. Living among the lower orders. Commerce. Po-
pulation and police of this capital
LETTER XXXVIII.
337
Tiresome journey from Vienna to Dresden. Bohemia. Plain
where general Daun beat the Prussians under the command
of the great Frederic. Prague, and cariosities there. The
watering place of Toeplitz. Bad roads thence to Dresden.
Approach to that city. Arrival at Dresden
371
LETTER XXXIX.
Fashion-
Remarks on Dresden. Catholic church. The elector and
the electoral family of Saxony. Pictures by Mengs.
Bridge over the Elbe. Palais Japannois. Cabinet of an-
tiquities and public library there.. Le Tresor, or collection
of jewels. Glass and porcelain manufactories. Carousel,
or court where tournaments were formerly exhibited.
Walks in and about Dresden. Count Bruhl's garden.
The Little Forest. Prince Maximilian's house.
able promenade of the inhabitants. Wooden theatre used
in summer. Mr. Grey, the British chargé-d'affaires. Dres
den an agreeable residence. Army and political situation
of the elector. The gallery of Dresden. Expedition to
Planen, a beautiful valley in the vicinity of Dresden.
Postscript, containing a catalogue of the most admired pic-
tures in the gallery of Dresden
383
LETTER XL.
Journey to Berlin. First appearance of Berlin. Principal
street. Great square. Buildings there. Two churches,
and the theatre between them. Opera-house. Streets of
Berlin. The Tilleuil. The triumphal arch leading into
the Park. The Park. Reason of the author's departure
from Berlin. Mr. Jackson, the British minister. Château,
or royal palace: apartment of the great Frederic. Balls
given by the queen. Anecdote of a scene which occurred
at one of these entertainments. The king's private house.
The queen justly celebrated for her beauty. Royal manu-
factory of porcelain. The only surviving brother of Fre-