vessels, belonging to different nations. Just as we embarked on our return to Puteoli, we perceived a party of Ragusan sailors, dressed in a Mohammedan costume, performing a Grecian dance, to the music of a violin, on an elevated piece of ground which overlooked the sea; and this singular group added much to the beauty of the landscape.

We crossed in the boat to Puteoli; and in going thence to Naples went a little out of our way, to see the Lake of Agnano and the Grotto del Cane. Nothing can be prettier or more romantic than this lake, which seems excluded from the rest of the world. On its banks stood formerly a city of the same name; but only enough remains of the ruins to prove that such a thing once existed. The Stuffa di S. Germano, in the same position, is a stove, or hot bath produced by vapour. It has the reputation of being highly useful in the cure of various disorders, and is on that account frequented by invalids.

The Grotto del Cane, which immediately adjoins, is so denominated in consequence of the custom which prevails of trying the effects of the air on a dog. The grotto is remarkable for the mephetis, or unwholesome atmosphere, which reigns within, and which is supposed to prove fatal to all animals subjected to its power.

One of the Spanish viceroys is said to have made the experiment on human beings, by confining in the grotto two criminals, both of whom expired. The common mode of asċertaining the fact is scarcely less cruel; and, though it is generally practised by travelers, I could not persuade myself to adopt it: I can therefore only speak by report. A dog, hired for the purpose, is suspended by the hind legs, and his head remains exposed to the vapour which rises from the ground. At first he appears convulsed and agitated, and in two minutes becomes completely senseless. When taken out of the grotto, the animal recovers life and motion in the same time in which he lost it but as all the pains of death must have been suffered, this resuscitation takes very little from the cruelty of the action.

The grotto is subterraneous, and cut out of a sandy soil; but nine feet high at the entrance, and narrower at the further end. It is about four feet in breadth. There is no bad smell within, at least none greater than is usually experienced in the interior of a cavern. The sides of it appear wet, but there is no deposit on them whatever.

Dogs on whom the experiment has been tried ten or twelve times, are subject to vertigoes and convulsions, which are usually the

forerunners of their death. A candle put into the vapour of the grotto is instantly extinguished.

Having now finished my little tour round the environs of Naples, I shall for the present take my leave; and remain, &c.

LETTER XXV.

Ceremony of a nun taking the veil-Private masquerades, and private plays, among the English and Russians—Commercial society-Public amusements-S. Carlos- Teatro NuovoTeatro di Florentino-Government of Naples-Courts of lar and state of literature-Museum of minerals, and its professor-General remarks on Naples-Living there rendered very expensive, in consequence of the great concourse of English-Regret at leaving Naples.

My dear sir,

Naples, Feb. 28, 1803.

INTENDING to leave Naples tomorrow morning, I shall endeavour in this last letter to put together all such circumstances, which have occurred to me during the time I have spent here, as are most likely to satisfy the curiosity you express about every thing relative to this place, and which hitherto I have not had occasion to mention.

I was present a few days ago at a ceremony, which, happily for us, is not known in England, and which consequently is interesting from its novelty: I mean that of a nun taking the veil.

Having received tickets of admission, I accompanied Mrs. L. and some other ladies, in their earriage, to the convent of Reginæ Cæli.

When we stopped at the door of the church in which this dreadful sacrifice was to be made, two gentlemen, dressed in uniform, relations of the lady about to assume the religious habit, came forward, and, notwithstanding a heavy shower of rain which was falling at the time, insisted on handing le signore Inglese up the stairs of the church. On entering, we received another mark of the civility shown to strangers by the Neapolitan noblesse,-the front seats were reserved exclusively for foreigners; by which arrangement we were enabled to see the ceremony to the greatest advantage.

The church is a small, but pretty, building, decorated on all sides with rich marble.

The relatives of the unfortunate girl, and all their friends, were in full dress; and, instead of expressing any grief on the occasion, seemed to consider the event as extremely joyful. Liveliness sat on the countenances of most of them: and the whole scene had rather the appearance of a triumph, than of a sacrifice.

Printed papers were distributed about the church; the contents of which were so curious, that, though I will not tire you by copying them verbatim, I must give you the heads, as characteristic of the sentiments which prevail here on such subjects. They formed together a dialogue, the dramatis persona of which were the World and the fair novice. The one