pears to be a delightful place.We have pro cured very comfortable lodgings at the Golden Eagle, kept by a person who was for many years butler to sir Morton Eden. Our civil · landlord assures us he will give us every thing à l'Anglaise, if we will only submit to dine at two o'clock; "for," added he, “I cannot get my cooks to dress a dinner at a later hour."I mention this as illustrative of the German obstinacy. I remember, a lady at Vienna told me, that, arriving at her town-house from the country after the usual dinner-hour, she could not persuade her servants to prepare any food till supper-time. Such is the impertinent ri gidity of these people in the observance of all their old customs; from which it is impossible to make them recede, either by the hope of reward or the fear of punishment.

I am, &c.

LETTER XXXIX

Remarks on Dresden· Catholic church-The elector and the electoral family of Saxony-Pictures by Mengs-Bridge over the Elbe-Palais Japannois-Cabinet of antiquities. and public library there- Le Tresor, or collection of jewels -Glass and porcelain manufactories- Carousel, or court where tournaments were formerly exhibited-Walks in and about Dresden-Count Bruhl's garden-The Little Forest

Prince Maximilian's house-Fashionable promenade of the inhabitants -Wooden theatre used in summer· Mr. Grey, the British chargé-d'affaires-Dresden an agreeable residence-Army and political situation of the electorThe gallery of Dresden-Expedition to Planen, a beautiful valley in the vicinity of Dresden-POSTSCRIPT, containing a catalogue of the most admired pictures in the gallery of Dresden.

Dresden, July 9, 1803.

My dear sir,

THOUGH Dresden is not one of the largest, the most populous, or the most lively capitals of Europe, it yields to few in beauty of situation, in regularity and magnificence of architecture, and above all in interesting objects. Standing on the banks of the river Elbe, almost in the centre of Germany, and surrounded by a rich and fertile country, it enjoys very singular advantages. Nothing can be prettier than the landscape which the

town presents on every side. The streets are long, wide, and clean; and there are some edifices of peculiar beauty; while the houses in general are high, well built, and commodious. The inns and hotels are particularly good; the market is well supplied; the inhabitants appear contented and happy; the government is said to be mild, and attentive to the interest of the people; and, in common with the rest of the electoral territories, this city had the good fortune of escaping the horrors of war during the last contest, in which so many neighbouring states were involved.

It is somewhat singular, that, though the protestant faith is the received and reigning doctrine of the country, the elector is himself a catholic, and the building which attracts the greatest notice in his capital is a church dedicated to the uses of that religion. I went thither the morning after my arrival. As it was Sunday, high mass was chaunted; and his serene highness, accompanied by all his family, was present.

The catholic church stands in a delightful position, on elevated ground, nearly fronting the bridge by which the Elbe is passed, and presents a most striking appearance. It is decorated within with several excellent paintings by Mengs; among which is distinguished the Ascension, considered his chef-d'œuvre. This

painter, born at Dresden, exerted his talents, with equal zeal and success, in ornamenting the principal edifices of his native city.

The music of the mass was performed by soprano voices. The elector, a well-looking man, about fifty years of age, sat, with the electress and his daughter, in a gallery on one side of the altar; and prince Albert, his next brother, and his princess (a sister of the emperor), occupied a similar place on the other.

When the service was over, we were led into a room through which the court passes from the church to the palace; and we here found assembled several respectable foreigners, of various nations, who were desirous of taking this opportunity of seeing the electoral family. There is nothing at all remarkable in the appearance of these princes; and the persons of their suite, though in full dress, were neither very elegantly nor very magnificently clad. The only peculiarity which I observed consisted in the dresses of two of the attendants, very tall men, who wore the Turkish costume, having each a long gown of yellow cloth, yellow slippers, and a white turban. I am told it has been an ancient custom at this court to have two servants so accoutred, who follow the elector on all public occasions, and are at other times the porters of his palace. Notwithstanding their

Mohammedan apparel, these nominal Turks are good catholics; and I saw them piously cross themselves whenever the host was elevated.

In going away from this church we crossed the elegant bridge by which the Elbe is traversed, and visited the Palais Japannois, which stands immediately on the other side, in a most picturesque situation. The garden is small, and not laid out with much taste; but it possesses a vast variety of rose trees, of various hues and of unusual height. Several are six feet high and among them I remarked one of a deep orange color, nearly resembling that of the wall-flower, a kind which I never saw before. At the end of the garden, near the water, is a terrace commanding a most delightful view of the city, the river, and the environs.

The palace itself is filled with interesting objects. The ground floor is devoted to the cabinet of antiquities; and a long suite of rooms receives these precious monuments.The collection was formed by Augustus III., king of Poland and elector of Saxony, between the years 1720 and 1730. He bought at Rome many treasures of antiquity; the greater part of which came from the gallery of prince Chigi, its whole contents having been purchased by his majesty, and conveyed to this place.