There was a dead pause; I pulled in my horse, and firmly resolved not to wag another step in ad

vance.

"Come on, Bayley," said the major.

"Devil a bit," said I, "that mountain is too much "for me; I must turn back directly."

"You would never think of returning now?" said Captain F. "We are within two minutes' ride

"of the mess."

"And a pretty mess I've made of it," was the reply. "How, in the name goodness, am I to ascend "such a hill as that?"

"Even after the manner of yonder fearless wight " in advance of us," rejoined the captain.

I looked before me; a man on horseback was literally trotting up the road. That was enough for

me.

Reader, in an hour after I was with the major on the platform of the citadel, taking a delightful survey of the scenery below.

CHAPTER XXI.

FORT CHARLOTTE.

"I'll to my charge, the citadel, repair."

Dryden.

PERHAPS I could not have been on a more delightful spot than the citadel at Fort Charlotte. A sprightly and refreshing breeze, blowing over the battlements, cooled the air, and gave a pleasant medium to the temperature of the atmosphere, making it neither too hot nor too cold. Then the view on all sides, above and below, was of surpassing loveliness. On one side Kingstown, sleeping in the valley below, and encircled with a grand and mighty chain of majestic mountains, whose lofty summits were seldom visible; on the other, the deep blue waters of the Atlantic, extending as far as the horizon, where ships, destined for some other island, might be seen passing in the distance like mere specks upon the ocean. Opposite the Grenadines, a beautiful little cluster of islands and rocks, some barren and some cultivated, then the bay itself, crowded with small craft, such as sloops, schooners, cutters, &c. in the midst of which, like giants among men, were some dozen of

square

rigged vessels, with their ensigns flying at their

peaks in honor of his Majesty's Brigantine, the Duke of York, which looked prettier than all, as she lay, with her raking masts, painted ports, and sails bent, displaying her white banner and waving her long pendant in the passing breeze.

I admired the view greatly; and on my expressing a wish to see more of the fort, Major D - kindly offered to accompany me round the fortifications, a description of which may not be uninteresting to the reader.

Fort Charlotte is erected upon Berkshire Hill, an eminence six hundred feet above the sea, from which the ascent is steep, rocky, and inaccessible.

After crossing the drawbridge on the road from town, the first object that presents itself beyond the guard-house, is a small parade ground, situated on the top of a rock immediately before the commandant's quarters; then all along the way leading to the citadel, which is dangerously steep, are the quarters and barracks of the engineer and staff officers; half way up is the mess room, before which is a platform where the regimental band entertain the officers with music during dinner; higher up than this there are three roads, or rather, pathways, branching off in different directions; one leading through an arched gate to the citadel itself, another to the officers' quarters, and the third to the barracks allotted to the men and officers of the artillery.

The regimental barracks are within the citadel, constructed of solid masonry, and capable of containing five hundred men. I should think they must be

rather close, as the only air admitted is through a window at each end, and ventilating galleries, that run through them. The officers' quarters are built above them, and are fronted by a long gallery, that commands a most splendid view of the hills and valleys that extend along the leeward coast. They are tolerably comfortable, and have the advantage of a most delightful breeze, that blows continually from the opposite quarter.

As the fort contains no large level piece of ground, the soldiers, independent of their exercise in the citadel, are marched down to the town parade-ground twice a week. In my tour round the fort, I was much amused to see the goats and kids frisking about, and skipping from rock to rock in the most lively manner. I also noticed one or two gardens made by the soldiers; and I believe the sergeants keep pigs, and a great quantity of poultry.

The military are the only persons in the West Indies who manage to keep their dogs in good condition. In all the towns I visited these unfortunate animals were literally skeletons; but in the forts they appeared quite fat and lively, and all the soldiers seemed fond of them.

In Fort Charlotte and its neighbourhood there is good stabling for the horses; and what is better still, the finest Guinea grass for their consumption.

As the roads are so rugged, it would be a matter of impossibility to bring a cart into the fort; and the provisions are therefore conveyed to the troops by means of a curious contrivance. Two thick

N

bamboos, of about fifteen feet in length, are fastened on either side of two mules, which leaves a considerable space between the head of the one, and the tail of the other. Several iron hoops, attached, to the bamboos, form a semicircle beneath this space, in which the articles are deposited and lashed; and thus equipped the driver gives the word, and the sure-footed animals trudge on with their burthen, up hill and down dale, along the steepest precipices, and over the most rugged roads. This method of conveyance is perfectly safe, and the only accident I have ever known to happen, is the occasional breaking of the iron hoops and consequent deposit of their contents into the road below. In such cases, however, the mules invariably stop short, and never think of advancing till the evil is remedied.

Half way between the Citadel and Old Woman's Point is situated Johnston's Point, on which stands the Hospital, a large building, containing cool chambers for the sick, store-room, steward's-room, and every other appendage necessary for a hospital establishment. The building is kept very clean, and nicely whitewashed; but being built of wood, and somewhat ancient to boot, it is speedily going to decay. A new hospital has been projected; and I believe it is now in progress, if not completely finished. Close to the sick-house are the quarters of the assistant-surgeon and of the hospital-steward.

The next and lowest point of the hill is Old Woman's Point, so called for reasons hereafter to be told.