in the evening we came in sight of this place. We got our carriage put up and went to the synagogue. We have caused quite a commotion in the town. To-day there has been a crowd of Jews at our door the whole day. Some of their nicest young men have come to speak with us. This is the last day, the great day of the feast, when Jesus stood and cried (John vii). This made us often think of the ministry of the Lord Jesus. To-morrow we leave for Brody-8 miles German, 40 English. We have hired a Jewish vehicle. That is our farthest point in a northern direction; then you will notice, mamma, we turn west to Lemberg and Cracow, if our heavenly Father thus guide us. We are in his hands, and could not be in better.

The effects of my fever have entirely left me. The confusion in my head is quite gone, and I am fully stronger than I was before. My locks are not yet grown. The weather is fully colder than your September weather, but fine and clear. To-day October begins; and by the beginning of November we may be in England. My dear people! I have never written to them since I left Italy. In Syria it was almost impossible to write, and after my fever I could not for long. I will try and write this week or next. I do hope that I may be fully restored to them. My heart I can hardly say ever troubles me. Still I feel as if every small exertion would bring it back. However, it is entirely in our God's hand, and I trust we shall find our chief joy in submission to him. I do trust you are all well. I hope you wrote to Warsaw, as we have sent word that our letters may meet us at Berlin. I can only commit you all, morning and evening, to His care, who alone preserves me, and has been so near to us all along. I feel persuaded that he will not suffer us to lose any thing by our seeking the good of his Israel. I hope John Bonar has consented to dispense my next communion, and that the chief Shepherd will himself feed my flock. Dear people! my heart yearns over them at a distance. How happy I am they have such a fine young man as Burns to care for them! I am afraid you will be attempting a journey across the Tay again to see that all be right-perhaps my father also. How are Miss Collier, Miss Carnegy, and Miss Duncan, and all my deaconesses? and how art thou thyself, my own deaconess and helpmate of thy poor brother? Dost thou grow in grace, and in the knowledge of our Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ? It is the only way to be kept from falling. Remember the resolution of dear Jonathan Edwards, which I used to make thee read so often-that he would learn something new out of the Bible every day. Do thou likewise, my dear sister. Through thy precepts I get understanding, therefore I hate every false way." Now, dear Lizzy, this is the first letter you ever got from Poland, and mayhap it may be the last. Keep me on the lips of thy heart, night and day, when thou drawest near to Him

66

* Tarnapol.

who is invisible, through Him who was manifest in flesh for us, and be sure that you are always remembered by me. Give kind love to Willie for me. What I write to thee I write to him and all. Farewell till we meet, and believe me your affectionate brother, ROBT. MURRAY M'CHEYNE.

I have still a good deal of deafness, and hope you have sent the address of the German aurist. You see I need to be humbled.

LETTER XXII.

TO HIS FATHER AND MOTHER.

BRESLAU, 17th Oct., 1839.

MY DEAR FATHER AND MOTHER,—I hasten to take a little time off our day's residence here to write you. I wrote you last from Tarnapol in Galician Poland; you will easily observe, by the map, how many hundred miles we have travelled since, and all in perfect safety, so that we are all well and happy. How much reason have we to thank our heavenly Guide! My only care is to hear from you that you are well, and that my people are still prospering. It is long, indeed, since we heard from Scotland. The last letter from you, which I received, was dated 8th June; and Andrew Bonar's nearly the same. However, it does no good to be anxious, and I shall therefore not be afraid of evil tidings, but have my heart fixed, trusting in the Lord. I am sure you will be glad, mamma, to know that we have bid adieu to Catholic countries, and that we now breathe the fresh air of Protestant Prussia. It has been quite a relief to us. Travelling in Austria is very dangerous; and especially in those barbarous parts where we have been. The people scarcely look upon lying, theft, murder, adultery, as crimes at all; and therefore, you are far from safe in the hands of the Poles. But we were travelling on a good errand, and we were abundantly cared for. And as we almost always staid at Jewish khans, we slept securely.

We left Tarnapol on the 2nd day after I wrote, and, about 10 the same evening, arrived at Brody. A Jew drove us in his briska. It was a fine warm day, like our summer. The country

is bare and uninteresting, except woods of oak and birch now and then, or a village. Zalosk and Potcamin were the names of two we passed through-both mostly Jewish. The latter means "beside the rock;" being built under a rocky eminence-on which stands a beautiful church and convent. We spent 2 days in Brody, a very singular town, being nearly all Jewish. It lies in a vast sandy plain, rather lower than the rest, so that the trees of the environs hide the city entirely. It is well built and clean.

There are only 3 churches and 150 synagogues-a great contrast to most of these towns. We visited the synagogues, and hospital, and markets-all Jewish. We were quite amused, standing in their busiest square, to watch the different groups, all in the Jewish dress-the long black gown, very much the same as that which I used to wear, and the high fur cap-the women with their costly head-dress. The head-dress is made of black velvet, and covered with pearls. Almost every Jewess wears this constantly.

We had some interesting conversations with Jews on the great object of our mission; and our great desire, as we passed along, was,-Oh! that Brody were in the hands of a better government! Austria will not allow any one in her dominions to change his religion. We soon found out that our movements were all closely watched. On inquiring for our passports at the police office, we were accused of being Jews in disguise. The commissary took out a long letter, and read that on such a night we had joined the Jews in their prayers at Yaglinsky. We told them that all ministers in our country know Hebrew. "Oh! but," said he, "why did you buy Phylacteries last night?" This is but one example of the constant system of spying which Austria maintains. At the custom-house, on leaving Brody, we were most rigorously dealt with. All our packages were ransacked one by one, papers and books. My desk afforded them matter of deep inquiry-there being sketches and plans, and a handwriting not a little mysteriThe map of my parish arrested their attention, and I thought we should all have been imprisoned for it-for one maintained that it was something Russian-and they are very jealous of that. All our books were taken from us-Hebrew and English Bibles, and all. "The Bible is a book forbidden in Austria," they told us. Our sealed letters of introduction were seized, and a long protocol drawn out about them. The end was, that though our carriage was at the door, we were detained till next day at 12fined for our letters, and our books sealed up and sent to the censor, by him to be sent to us at Cracow. Poor blind Popery! she tries to keep the light entirely away from her; but her plagues shall come in one day. Read the 18th chapter of the Revelation, and you will see her end. I do not know why, but Brody is the only place where they took us for great rich people, and where they attempted to impose upon us at all hands.

ous.

We set off on Saturday 5th, at 12 o'clock, and therefore did not reach Lemberg, as we had hoped, the same evening. Sassow and Zloozow were the only villages we passed. The country and weather were both pleasant. The Poles have a kind of corn they call retsky, very good indeed as food. The stubble is of a fine red, which gives the autumn fields a very beautiful appearance. There are some fine forests, but altogether little variety-few rising grounds-few gentlemen's seats; one or two only the whole

way.

Crosses and ridiculous images line the road in all directions. They are the mark of the Beast upon this land.

We slept at a lonely Jewish khan called Zopka. The next day, being the Sabbath, we rested there; glad to devote a whole day to quiet meditation far from the world. It was here I met with one of those adventures so common in Poland, and the real danger of which I did not know till afterwards. We had all separated, agreeing to meet at 12, each taking a passage to expound. I had taken Eph. vi., and, leaving the khan, crossed over the fields till I came to a pleasant hill-side, about a mile and a half off, but still in sight; a fine wood covered the hill further up, but I lay down near the foot under a tree. Two Polish shepherds passed me with their herds; they then came and sat down by me, and we tried to speak to one another, but in vain. The Polish is a fine language, but difficult and unconnected with any other. I took out my watch and saw it was 12, and rose to leave. I had not gone far when they called. I stopped till they came up. They made signs that I should go with them. I refused. They showed that I must go. I persisted, when they threw themselves in my way. I pushed them aside and ran. I could easily have outstripped them, but did not like to make my heart beat, as a hard race would have done. I therefore stopped, and, with my trusty staff, stood on the defensive. I could not find in my heart to strike them, and so they soon closed upon .ne, and we had a wrestle together, in which my coat was torn from top to bottom. I sat down tired on the ground when they, for what reason I know not, left me, and I proceeded quietly home. I was afterwards told that they wanted to rob me, and that they would not have scrupled in the least to use the knife. It is quite common in Galicia, and we heard many instances of it afterwards. It is only another instance in which God has wonderfully preserved me. Surely I shall live to praise Him!

On Monday morning we set off by 3, and entered the handsome city of Lemberg about 9 the same morning. Here, for the first time, we met with every thing civilized. Pleasant walks under trees. Handsome buildings-and, altogether, a pleasant look about the town. The Jews are very numerous and very degraded. We had a very comfortable inn-fine warm weather, like our summer, and enjoyed all that was to be seen. We saw a Jewish burial. One curious ceremony they have is speaking to the dead. The face is uncovered, and all his friends round the grave begin to beg the dead man to forgive them if they have done any thing amiss to him in his last sickness. They tell him to pray for them when he goes to heaven. They just speak to him as if the dead were listening. There is something very dreadful in it. The mourning women make a singular mockery of grief. We met the Archdukes of Austria the same evening, and gave and received the polite salutation of this country.

The next morning we left for Cracow, about 200 miles, in a Jewish carriage, driven by a Jew with a long beard. He engaged to take us in 4 days. We accomplished this journey in perfect safety-being protected and carried forward by a divine hand. We slept every night for a few hours, and always in a Jewish khan, so that we were saved from many of those unpleasant adventures which sometimes take place in Polish inns. The country is fertile, but far from being interesting. Our first day's journey was as far as Laskovola, a small village. A simple Jewish family entertained us, and were very kind. Next day we crossed the river Saan, a tributary of the Vistula--passed through Jaroslaw and some other small towns, and slept in the town of Rezow. Next day we passed on through Zenzow, as far as Tarnow. At mid-day we always dine, that being the Polish hour. That night we slept in a hay-loft.

Next day, Friday, by 4, we arrived in Cracow. We felt great joy in passing the frontier, and bidding farewell to Austria. It is a kingdom of darkness and idolatry, and soon will receive the reward of all that give honor to the Beast. We crossed the broad Vistula on a bridge of boats, and were soon established in Knotz's immense inn. The ancient capital of Poland, and burial-place of the kings, is an interesting town. A fine old castle and cathedral rise over it, as guarding the city. There is a fine poplar walk round and round the town. The whole place bears the stamp of antiquity. One portion, separated from the city by a brook, is inhabited by all the Jews, reckoned about 22,000. No unbaptized person is allowed to sleep in Cracow. The wickedness of the people is very great. Their idolatry is awful. Lying, stealing, murder, adultery, are little thought of. A student was murdered this time last year, in a quiet place of the town, and 35 stabs were found on his body. The government is, in name, independentbut really under Austria. We called on the Protestant ministera Lutheran. He was exceedingly kind-his wife was a Jewess. We afterwards found that he is a very worldly clergyman.

On Saturday we found out Mr. Hiscock, the English missionary to the Jews. He and his wife are truly delightful persons, and we were constantly with them during our stay. We were truly happy together. And they were quite overjoyed to meet with English Christians in their lonely situation. They seem hardly to know one Christian in the whole place.

The Catholics are bitter

enemies, and the Protestants hardly less so. He is a man of a very gentle, pleasing spirit, and seems eminently useful to the Jews. We enjoyed the Lord's Supper together on Sabbath, which I dispensed after our own form. It was sweet to cling together in that holy ordinance in so dark and dead a spot.

On Monday evening we walked out together to Esther's pool. King Kazimer loved a Jewess named Esther, and married her. For her sake he built the Jewish quarter, calling it by his name.