Greens.

13. EARLY GREEN HAIRY. No. 529. Pom. Mag.

t. 22.

Branches erect. Fruit early, small, round, deep green, hairy early and excellent.

14. EDWARDS'S JOLLY TAR. No. 131.

Branches somewhat drooping. Fruit early, of a middling size, large, roundish-oblong, with yellowish veins, smooth.

15. MASSEY'S HEART OF OAK. No. 128.

Branches drooping. Fruit rather early, large, oblong, with pale yellow veins, smooth excellent. 16. NIXON'S GREEN MYRTLE.

No. 576.

Branches somewhat drooping. Fruit late, large,

oblong, tapering to the base, pale green, smooth.

17. PARKINSON'S LAUREL. No. 132.

Branches erect.

Fruit rather late, large, roundish

oblong, pale green, very downy.

18. WAINWRIGHT'S OCEAN. No. 142.

Branches drooping. Fruit pretty early, large, oblong or ovate, smooth; the largest of this colour.

Whites.

19. CLEWORTH'S WHITE LION. No. 197. Branches somewhat drooping. Fruit late, roundishoblong, slightly hairy, sometimes nearly smooth.

20. CROMPTON'S SHEBA QUEEN. No. 188. Pom. Mag. t. 12.

Branches somewhat erect. Fruit early, pretty large, roundish-oblong, downy: excellent.

21. MOORE'S WHITE BEAR. No. 705.

Branches somewhat erect. Fruit early, large, roundish-oblong, hairy, or somewhat bristly.

22. SAUNDERS'S CHESHIRE LASS. No. 156. Branches erect. Fruit very early, large, oblong, downy excellent for tarts early in the spring, when few are ready for that purpose.

23. WELLINGTON'S GLORY. No. 195. Branches erect.

ovate, very downy

Fruit pretty early, large, somewhat excellent.

24. WOODWARD'S WHITESMITH. No. 199. Branches erect. Fruit pretty early, large, roundishoblong, or somewhat ovate; when highly ripened and exposed to the sun the skin becomes brownish, very downy very excellent, and more in esteem than any other gooseberry of this colour.

This list, by far the most ample of any that has yet appeared, will enable the grower to form a just estimate of the comparative merit of the principal part of those gooseberries which have been exhibited for prizes from 1825 to 1829 inclusive; a period, probably, when horticulture has been as extensively encouraged, and flourished as much, as at any time of equal extent within our memory. The first part will enable those who are desirous of exhibiting the largest specimens in the dessert to choose the heaviest kinds of the different colours, let his selection be large or small; and, together, it will afford the nurseryman the means of correcting his collection, if it should happen to be wrong, and thus accomplish a twofold purpose, which will fully compensate for the space it takes up in the present work,

Propagation.

Gooseberries are propagated by cuttings, in the same manner as Currants; but where strong cuttings cannot

be obtained, shorter ones of six inches in length will be sufficient, planting them so that the two upper eyes only are above the surface of the bed: these will generally produce two shoots each, the strongest of which, at the end of the year, may be selected to form the stem of the plant, and shortened to the desired height. If one or two small cuttings only can be obtained from a plant for propagation, short lengths of three inches each, including the extremity, may be planted with success, under a hand-glass, leaving only one eye above the surface; or, which is better, level with the surface: the month of October is the best time for this purpose.

In order to have fine, well-flavoured fruit, the bushes, as directed for Currants, must be planted in a good soil and a favourable situation, kept in a state of vigour, and thin of wood by annual prunings, so as to admit plenty of sun, and a free circulation of air.

The largest berries are grown on vigorous young bushes, which have not more than five or six branches, and allowing only two or three berries to grow on each, or indeed only one berry on each: the latter are invariably those which have carried off the best prize. In dry hot weather, the plants must be supplied with water, and the fruit shaded from the sun for a few hours in the middle of the day.

Cultivation of Gooseberries and Currants.

Gooseberries and Currants, when planted in the open quarters of a garden, require similar treatment; therefore such directions as are given for one may be strictly applied to the other, with but a very trifling deviation, which will be explained towards the sequel of this article.

Confining myself for the present to the Gooseberry, I must observe with regard to its early management,

the reader will find some account of it under the head of Propagation.

In the quarters where the young bushes have established themselves, and made some vigorous shoots, the best placed of those should be selected to form the head four shoots will be sufficient to begin with; these should be pruned back to six or nine inches, according to their strength and line of direction, from each of which three or four may be expected for another year. When these are pruned at the end of the second year, two of the best placed shoots from each must be selected, and pruned back to six or nine inches as before, cutting the others out close to the mother branch, thereby preventing the production of an unnecessary and useless number of shoots.

In the third winter, according to this method, each young bush will have eight shoots when pruned, which will be sufficient to form the principal limbs of the full grown head.

In the fourth winter's pruning, the strongest and best placed shoot only should be retained from each branch, and that one pointing the most directly outwards, shortening it to six or nine inches as before, and cutting off close all the rest: this will give much more room to the branches, and produce a more open and handsome head, than if two shoots had been retained to each branch as before.

In the fifth pruning, should the head require a greater supply of branches, two shoots may be left, in the same manner as in the second and third year; and this practice may be continued, leaving either one or two shoots to each branch, as occasion may require, so long as the bush stands.

It must, however, be observed, that the older the bushes are, the smaller will be their leading shoots: these, of course, must be shortened in proportion accord

ingly; so that a bush of fifteen or twenty years' standing will rarely require its extreme shoot to be left more than six inches in length.

It is also necessary to bear in mind that the large Lancashire Gooseberries, and which are chiefly pendent growers, require to have much more space between their branches than the Champagne, and other upright growers the former, therefore, ought not to have them much less than a foot apart, nor the latter nearer than nine inches, when the winter pruning is finished.

In the annual prunings, there will always be a number of shoots, and some, perhaps, of the most vigorous, produced from various parts of the head, particularly from the upper side of the diverging limbs: these must be cut off quite close and smooth, so as to remove entirely their bottom eyes, to prevent à succession of still stronger shoots, which would otherwise be produced; thus keeping the heads open, and consisting of fruit-bearing branches only.

When the spurs of gooseberries have borne fruit for two or three years, and become numerous, they should be thinned out, leaving the young ones only: by this means the fruit will have more room to swell, and its flavour consequently improved.

CURRANTS, as was observed at the commencement of this article, when planted as open bushes, require a management but little differing from that of the gooseberry this consists, chiefly, in leaving their shoots at a greater length in the annual prunings. In the dessert, the largest bunches have always the best appearance, and it rarely happens that they are not the best.

To obtain these, the bushes must be kept very thin of wood, clearing away all young shoots from the middle, as they are produced, and thinning out the spurs, leaving those only which are young, and at a few inches' distance from each other. The large white crystal