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AMERICAN STATE PAPERS.

from the lower camp, and accompanied by two Indians, who stated that they belonged to a band residing on lake Superiour, called Fols Avoines. Their language was that of the Chipeways. They said that Mr. Dickson and three other traders were established about sixty miles below; and that there were seventy lodges of Sioux on the Mississippi. The Indians were well satisfied with their reception; and in consequence of the information they gave, Mr. Pike dispatched two of his men with a letter to Mr. Dickson, for the purpose of attaching the most powerful tribes in this quarter to his interests. On the 29th a Sioux (the son of a warrior called the Killien Rouge of the gens de feuille) and a Fols Avoine, came to the post. He stated that having struck their trail, and finding some to be shoe tracks, he supposed it led to the establiment of some trader, and followed it. He also stated that Mr. Dickson had told the Sioux "that they might hunt where they pleased, as the United States party were gone ahead, and would cause the Chipeways to treat them with friendship whenever Mr. Pike met with that nation. That he had barred up the mouth of the St. Peters, so that no liquor could ascend that river; but if they came on the Mississippi, they should have what liquor they pleased, and that the party had a great deal of merchandize to give to Indians in presents."

This misrepresentation of facts seemed intended to serve his own views, and draw the Indians from the traders on the St. Peter's who adhered to the restricting law against supplying them with liquor to his own camp on the Mississippi, where he promised to supply them: it might have a farther ill effect; for, under the expectation of hunting on the Mississippi in security, should any of them be killed, the blame would attach to the United States party. Mr. Pike therefore explained fully to the young chief the real facts and his ideas on the subject, and dismissed them on the day following with some trifling presents.

On the 3rd of December, Mr. Dickson with an engagee, and a young Indian, arrived at the post, where they were received with politeness and attention. After a serious conversation, on the information given by the young chief, it appeared to be in part incorrect: for Mr. D. denied, that either himself, or any houses under his direction, sold liquor. He gave such useful information relative to the future route of the party as led to a full confidence in the fulfilment of the object of the voyage. He appeared to be a gentleman of general commercial knowledge, and much geographical information relative to the western country. When Mr. Dickson left the station on the 4th he furnished Mr. Pike with a letter to a young man of his house on lake de Sable, and offered his services to any extent.

Three families of the Fols Avoine Indians arrived on the 6th, as also a Sioux Indian who pretended to have been sent from the Gens de Feuille, to give information that the Yanktons and Sussitones, two of the most savage bands of the Sioux, residing near the heads of the St. Peter's and the Missouri river, had commenced the war dance, and would depart in a few days; in which case he conceived it best that the Fols Avoine should keep under the protection of the exploring party. He stated that he gave this information, as the making a stroke on the Chipeway would tend to defeat the object of the United States party. Although there were reasons for believing him a self deputed envoy, Mr. Pike offered to pay either him or any other young Sioux, who would go to these bands and deliver his words. The Indian promised to make them known on his return. On the next day another of the Fols Avoine tribe encamped near the stockade. The Indian named Chien Blanche, was an intelligent man; and stated that he had wintered on that place for ten years past. Mr. Pike visited his lodge in the afternoon, and found him seated in the midst of his children, and grand child

ren, amounting to ten in number. His wife, although advanced in years, was suckling two children that appeared nearly of the same age (two years) and which might have been taken for twins, had not one been of a much clearer complexion than the other. On enquiry he found that the fair one was the child of an Englishman by one of Chien Blanche's daughters lately dead; since which, the grand mother had taken it to her breast. The lodge was covered with mats made of platted rushes. To these Indians be was obliged to give meat ;-but on explaining the situation the party were in, with respect to provisions, the Chien Blanche said, they were then without food, but would return a greater quantity for it in the course of the winter.

An invalid Sioux arrived on the 8th, with information that the Sissatones, and Yanktons were determined to make war on the Chipeways, and that they had formed a party of 150, or 160 men for the purpose: but that a part of the Sissatones had refused to join in the expedition, and would visit the exploring party on the day following. This information led Mr. Pike to defer the voyage to Lac Sangsue, which he had in contemplation, until he had seen these Indians; as he might, perhaps, be the means of preventing the intended stroke against the Chipeways. In expectation of a visit from the Indians, he had two large kettles of soup made for them The Sioux did not arrive.

Leaving some of his men at the stockade, or station, Mr. Pike set off with the remainder in prosecution of his voyage to the source of the river, with sledges similar to those used by farmers, and capable of holding about four hundred weight. They crossed the river on the evening of the 9th of December, and encamped above the rapids. In the morning they began their march up the river: each of the sleds was drawn by two men, and the perogue towed by three. They found it difficult to get along; the snow being dissolved in many places on the prairie. The men with the canoe had frequently to wade and drag her over the rocks. As the party had now to depend altogether on game for their subsistence, the real dangers, and the difficulties to be encountered were communicated to the men this evening.

In the afternoon of the second day, they heard not less than fifty guns fired ahead; and, after dark, five more, with a noise, and shouting in the prairie. Mr. Pike and a corporal pushed on 8 miles in advance of the party, with the hope of finding the Indians, but without success. They however found that the river was frozen so as to enable them to travel on the ice, and proceed three times as fast as they had hitherto done. A Fols Avoine, who met the party, informed them that, in the rear of the hills which bordered the prairie, there were small lakes which, by portages, communicated with lake Superior ; and, that in one day's march in that direction, English trading houses would be met with. That the Chipeways were then hunting, and that the Sioux, who had visited the station on the 29th of the preceding month, on hearing the firing, had prudently retired to the west side of the Mississippi.

Persons unacquainted with the enterprising spirit of trade, and of the people of the North West company, would be surprised to find they had penetrated the wilderness so far from lake Superior, by lakes which are little better than marshes. It may serve to shew the difficulty of putting a barrier to their trade in this quarter.

Whilst proceeding up the river, the foremost of the sleds, which contained all their ammunition, and the baggage of Mr. Pike, fell through the ice. The men had to get into the river, up to their middles in water, to recover the articles and on an examination of them it was found that all their cartridges, and several pounds of battle powder was spoilt; what they happened to have in kegs was saved, or they must have given up the prosecu

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AMERICAN STATE PAPERS.

tion of the voyage for want of the means of supplying themselves with provisions. Several other articles were materially injured. At the time they met with this accident, two Fols Avoine Indians arrived; one of whom had been at the camp on the 29th of November, in company with the Sioux. Mr. Pike shewed them by signs where he intended to encamp, and invited them to join him. They retired, but returned in the evening to the camp with each a deer, as a present. In the morning a small present was made in return, and the canoe was given to them to keep until the spring. After remaining two days encamped they left it on the morning of the 17th, with their sleds very heavy laden. Having eleven deer on hand, and it being necessary to lighten their load, a hole was dug in the ground, in which a barrel of pork, and one of flour, wrapped in deer skins to keep off the damp, were deposited. After filling up the pit, they made their fire immediately over it. On the evening of the 20th, they deposited another barrel of flour, and heard three guns fired at sunset.

On Tuesday, the 24th of December, they reached the Isle de Corbeau, in lat. 45 deg. 49 min. 50 sec. north, at the confluence of the riviere de Corbeau with the Mississippi. The latter river, above this place, is very narrow, and changes its general direction, from west to northeast.

From the frequent breaking of their sleds, and accidents of that nature, the progress of the party was very slow: sometimes not more than four miles in a day, and seldom exceeding ten.

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After passing the riviere de Corbeau, the timber consisted of yellow and pitch pine scarcely any of which had been met with below. Much of it is dead. The country becomes dreary and barren, with high rocks and bare knobs. As they proceeded up the river, the bottoms, were found to extend, and the country was full of small lakes. On approaching Pine river, a new species of pine called by the French "Sappine," was observed to grow in abundance.

At the mouth of Pine river is the site of a large Chipeway encampment, of fourteen lodges. It had been occupied in the summer, but was then vacant. From the marks which were left, it appeared that they had marched a party of fifty warriors against the Sioux, and had killed four men and four women. The women were represented by carved images of pine or cedar, the four men were painted and planted up to their middles in the ground, with four poles, sharpened at the ends, by their sides. Near this place they observed poles, on which deer skins, plumes, silk handkerchiefs, &c. were suspended; as also a circular hoop of cedar with something attached to it, which had the appearance of a scalp. Near the site of each lodge was a hole dug in the ground, with boughs ready to cover it, as a retreat for their women and children in case of an attack from the Sioux.

Higher up they passed six very elegant bark cances, which had been laid up by the Chipeways; as also a camp, curiously formed of pine branches; which did not seem to have been evacuated more than ten days.

On the evening of the 2nd of January, 1806, the centinel gave information that some Indians were coming at full speed upon the trail or track of the party. The men were ordered to stand by their arms carelessly. The Indians were immediately in the camp, and saluted the flag by a discharge of three pieces, when four Chipeways, one Englishman, and a Frenchman of the North West company presented themselves. They stated, that some women having discovered the trail, and not knowing but it might be their enemies, had given the alarm. They had heard of the United States party, and revered the flag. Mr. Grant (the Englishman) had only arrived the day before from lake de Sable; from which he had marched in a day and a half. The Indians were presented with half a deer, for which they were very thankful, having been kept in their camp some days by the discovery of the fires which the exploring party made where they stopped.

The next morning the party continued their journey, except Mr. Pike and one of his men, who accompanied Mr. Grant to his establishment on the Red Cedar lake. The British flag was flying at the trading house :-Mr. Grant said it belonged to the Indians. After explaining to a Chipeway warrior, called Curlyhead,' the objects of the voyage, and receiving his answer, which was that he should remain quiet till their return, they eat breakfast and parted. Mr. Pike and his companion overtook the rest of the party at the close of the day.

In the night of the 4th, Mr. Pike's tent was discovered by the centinel to be on fire; the party were alarmed in time to prevent any other damage than the loss of the tent, which was a double one, and some articles of cloathing which had been hung to dry. They fortunately saved three small kegs of powder from the flames, which were in the tent.

On the 6th, the snow was three feet deep, and continued falling all the day. In this day's march they met two Frenchmen, of the N. W. company, each of whom carried about 200 pounds weight on his back. They had rackets on. Mr. Grant, and the Frenchman with him, were gone on before. The next day was so intensely cold that several of the men had their extremities frozen. It was found necessary to send a person forward to make fires every three miles.

Supposing themselves to be at no great distance from Sandy lake, Mr. Pike, with a corporal, left the party, and went to view it. They walked briskly till towards evening, when they met a young Indian, one of those who had visited their camp near Red Cedar lake. They endeavoured to explain to him their wish of reaching lake de Sable that evening. He turned back with them until they came to a trail which led across the woods, which he signified was a near course. They went with him, and soon found themselves in a Chipeway encampment, to which the friendly savage had led them, with the expectation of their remaining at it all night, knowing it to be too late to reach the lake at a reasonable hour. On their refusing to stay he put them in the right road. At dusk they arrived at the place where the track left the Mississippi, when they traversed two leagues of the wilderness without much difficulty, and at last struck the shore of the lake de Sable, over a branch of which their course lay. The snow having covered the trail of the Frenchmen who had passed before with rackets, they were fearful of losing themselves on the lake. The reason for such apprehension can be best felt by those who have been exposed on a naked and dreary plain, in a high latitude, on a December night, when the mercury in Farenheit's thermometer stood twenty-seven degrees below 0. Cheered by a belief that they saw the opposite shore, they proceeded in a direct line; and after some time had the satisfaction of discovering lights in the houses. On their arrival they found, to their surprize, a large stockade. The gate being opened they entered, and proceeded to the quarters of Mr. Grant, where they were treated with the greatest hospitality.

This establishment was made by the North West company twelve years before when it was under the direction of Mr. Charles Bousky. It has now acquired such a degree of regularity as to allow the superintendant to live with tolerable comfort. They have horses, which were obtained from the Indians on Red river.

They raise plenty of potatoes, and the lake furnishes them with pike, suckers, pickerel, and white fish, in any number. Beaver, deer, and moose, are in abundance; but their principal dependance is on the wild oats, which they purchase from the Indians at the rate of one dollar and a half the bushel Flour, pork, and salt may be considered as interdicted articles to persons not principals in the establishment. Flour sells at half a dollar, salt one dollar, pork 80 cents, sugar half a dollar, and tea at four dollars and

a half a pound! The sugar is obtained from the Indians, and made from maple juice.

The remainder of the party did not arrive at the establishment of the N. W. company, on lake de Sable, until the evening of the thirteenth ; one of the men had been much injured by the fall of a tree; this, with the badness of the ice on Lake river, (occasioned by the marshes which abound on it) and through which one of the sleds fell, had much retarded their progress. At the establishment they were furnished with a warm room, and well treated. Mr. Grant had gone to an Indian lodge to receive his credits.

On the 14th Mr. Pike, crossed the lake, and ascertained the latitude to be 46 deg. 9 min. 20 sec. north. Mr. Grant returned on this day, with a quantity of furs, and eleven beaver carcases.

Mr. Pike, and Mr. Grant, accompanied by two of the party, went to view the lake, and found it more extensive than he had imagined. On leaving the stockade they met an Indian, whose countenance expressed great astonishment when told that Mr. Pike was an American; for, it is here confessed that the savages express the greatest veneration for the American character when it is connected with warlike achievements : they say, "the American is neither a Frenchman nor an Englishman, but a white Indian." At this place the men were employed in making sleds to conform to those used in this part of the country which are, a single plank turned up like the head of a violin. The baggage is lashed on in bags or sacks.

On the 19th two men of the N. W. company arrived from the Fond de Lac Superieur with letters; one of which was from their establishment in Atabasca, and had been since May in coming.

While at this post, they eat beaver dressed in every respect as roasted pig. It had no unpleasant taste; on the contrary, was very excellent eating. The head of the moose, which they also eat here, when well boiled, was considered equal to the tail of the beaver, to which in taste and substance it is similar.

On the 20th January, the party and sleds left the North West company's station, and reached the portage between the Mississippi and Leech Lake river. It began to snow in the evening, and continued all night and the morning of the next day. From the quantity of water on the ice, it was found impracticable to get all the baggage along; eight men were therefore sent back laden with those articles which were not absolutely necessary to the party. Mr. Grant who had accompanied them thus far, not being so incumbered with articles as they were, left them on the morning of the second day. As they approached the neighbourhood of a lodge or house belonging to Mr. Grant, where he had promised to halt half a day, Mr. Pike, accompanied by an Indian in his party and one of the men, left the main body, to go to it: the soldier, not walking with the same speed, was left behind, while Mr. Pike and his companion reached the house about sun set: they met two of Mr. Grant's men, who had left it in the morning, on their return to the lake de Sable. Here they passed an uncomfortable night; having nothing to eat, very little fire wood, and no blankets. The Indian, however, slept sound, while Mr. Pike sat over the few coals their fire pro-duced. The man they had left behind did not arrive that night. The Indian having expressed a wish to go after his son, left Mr. Pike to his reflections in solitude, the next morning. About ten o'clock the soldier arrived: he had followed them until some time in the night, when, finding he could not overtake his company, he made a fire and halted; but having no ax, could scarcely keep himself from freezing. He met the Indian in the morning, who made signs for him to go on. After the whole party had arrived at this lodge, Mr. Pike determined to proceed on to the head of the river,

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