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"Tis still the noblest dwelling-even in Genoa! Where, when the south-wind blows, and clouds on And hadst thou, Andrea, lived there to the last,
Slowly uplifted over field and fence,
Floats on a world of waters from that low, "Tis in the heart of Genoa (he who comes, That level region, where no Echo dwells, Must come on foot) and in a place of stir;
Or, if she comes, comes in her saddest plight, Men on their daily business, early and late, Hoarse, inarticulate-on to where the path Thronging thy very threshold. But when there, Is lost in rank luxuriance, and to breathe Thou wert among thy fellow-citizens,
Is to inhale distemper, if not death ; Thy children, for they hail'd thee as their sire; Where the wild-boar retreats, when hunters chafe And on a spot thou must have loved, for there, And, when the day-star flames, the buflalo-herd, Calling them round, thou gavest them more than life, Afflicted, plunge into the stagnant pool, Giving what, lost, makes life not worth the keeping. Nothing discern'd amid the water-leaves, There thou didst do indeed an act divine;
Save here and there the likeness of a head, Nor couldst thou leave thy door or enter in, Savage, uncouth; where none in human shape Without a blessing on thee.
Come, save the herdsman, levelling his length
Of lance with many a cry, or, Tartar-like,
Urging his steed along the distant hill
When in the South, against the azure sky, Thine was a glorious course; but couldst thou Three temples rose in soberest majesty, there,
The wondrous work of some heroic race, Clad in thy cere-cloth-in that silent vault,
But now a long farewell! Oft, while I live, Where thou art gather'd to thy ancestors
If once again in England, once again Open thy secret heart and tell us all.
In my own chimney-nook, as Night steals on, Then should we hear thce with a sigh confess,
With half-shot eyes reclining, oft, methinks, A sigh how heavy, that thy happiest hours
While the wind blusters and the pelting rain Were pass'd before these sacred walls were left,
Clatters without, shall I recall to mind Before the ocean-wave thy wealth reflected, (184)
The scenes, occurrences, I met with here, And pomp and power drew envy, stirring up
And wander in Elysium; many a note The ambitious man,' that in a perilous hour
Of wildest melody, magician-like, Fell from the plank. (185)
Awakening, such as the Calabrian horn,
Along the mountain-side, when all is still,
Pours forth at folding-time; and many a chant, And now farewell to Italy—perhaps
Solemn, sublime, such as at midnight flows For ever! Yet, methinks, I could not go,
From the full choir, when richest harmonies I could not leave it, were it mine to say,
Break the deep silence of thy glens, La Cava; “ Farewell for ever!"
To him who lingers there with listening ear,
Now lost and now descending as from Heaven!
NOTES AND ILLUSTRATIONS. From the first hour, when, in my long descent, Strange perfumes rose, as if to welcome me,
Note 1, page 40, col. 2. From flowers that minister'd like unseen spirits ;
As on that Sabbath-eve when he arrived. From the first hour, when vintage-songs broke forth,
“J'arrive pssoufflé, tout en nage ; le caur me baby A grateful earnest, and the Southern lakes,
je vois de loin les soldats à leur poste ; j'accours, je Dazzlingly bright, unfolded at my feet;
crie d'une voix étouffee. Il étoit trop tard.”—See Les They that receive the cataracts, and ere-long Dismiss them, but how changed—onward to roll
Confessions, L. I. The street, in which he was born,
is called Rue Rousseau. From age to age in silent majesty, Blessing the nations, and reflecting round
Note 2, page 40, col. 2. The gladness they inspire.
He sate him down and wept-wept till the morning. Gentle or rude,
“Lines of eleven syllables occur almost in every page No scene of life but has contributed
of Milton; but though they are not unpleasing, they Much to remember—from the Polesine,
ought not to be admitted into heroic poetry; since the
2 Written at Susa, May 1, 1822.
1 The Po.
2 The temples of Pæstum.
narrow limits of our language allow us no other dis
Note 7, page 42, col. 1. tinction of epic and tragic measures."-JOHNSON.
St. Bruno's onceIt is remarkable that he used them most at last. The Grande Chartreuse. It was indebted for its In the Paradise Regained they occur oftener than in foundation to a miracle ; as every guest may learn the Paradise Lost, in the proportion of ten to one; there from a little book that lies on the table in his and let it be remembered that they supply us with cell, the cell allotted to him by the fathers. another close, another cadence; that they add, as it “In this year the canon died, and, as all believeil, were, a string to the instrument; and, by enabling the in the odor of sanctity: for who in his life had been Poet to relax at pleasure, to rise and fall with his
so holy, in his death so happy? But false are the subject, contribute what is most wanted, compass, judgments of men; as the event showeth. For when Fariety.
the hour of his funeral had arrived, when the mournShakspeare seems to have delighted in them, anders had entered the church, the bearers set down the in some of his soliloquies has used them four and five bier, and every voice was lifted up in the Miserere, times in succession; an example I have not followed suddenly, and as none knew how, the lights were ex in mine. As in the following instance, where the sub
tinguished, the anthem stopt! A darkness succeeded, ject is solemn beyond all others:
a silence as of the grave; and these words came in To be, or not to be, that is the question.
sorrowful accents from the lips of the dead. “I am Whether 't is nobler in the mind to suffer
summoned before a Just God!-A Just God judgeth The slings and arrows of outrageous fortune, Or to take arms against a sea of troubles,
me! I am condemned by a Just God!" And, by opposing, end them.
In the church, says the legend," there stood a They come nearest to the flow of an unstudied young man with his hands clasped in prayer, who eloquence, and should therefore be used in the drama; from that time resolved to withdraw into the desert. but why exclusively? Horace, as we learn from him. It was he whom we now invoke as St. Bruno." self, admitted the Musa Pedestris in his happiest
Note 8, page 42, col. 1. hours, in those when he was most at his ease; and
--that house so rich of old, wo cannot regret her visits. To her we are indebted
So courteous. for more than half he has left us ; nor was she ever
The words of Ariosto. at his elbow in greater dishabille, than when he
Ricca-e cortesa a chiunque vi venia. wrote the celebrated Journey to Brundusium.
Milton was there at the fall of the leaf.
Note 9, page 42, col. 2.
Bread to the hungry. The Abbot of Clairvaux. “To admire or despise They distribute, in the course of the year, from St. Bernard as he ought," says Gibbon, “ the reader, thirty to thirty-five thousand rations of food; receiving like myself, should have before the windows of his
travellers of every description.-LE PERE BISELX, library that incomparable landscape.”
Note 10, page 42, col. 2.
Dessaix, who turn'd the scale. There is no describing in words; but the follow. “Of all the generals I ever had under me, Dessaix ing lines were written on the spot, and may serve possessed the greatest talents. He loved glory for itself.” perhaps to recall to some of my readers what they
Note 11, page 43, col. 1. have seen in this enchanting country.
And gather'd from above, below, around. I love to watch in silence till the Sun
The Author of Lalla Rookh, a Poet of such singuSets; and Mont Blanc, array'd in crimson and gold,
lar felicity as to give a lustre to all he touches, has Flings his broad shadow half across the Lake; That shadow, though it comes through pathless tracts
written a song on this subject, called the CrystalOf ether, and o'er Alp and desert drear,
hunters. Only less bright, less glorious than himself.
Note 12, page 43, col. 1.
-nor long before. Such moments are most precious. Yet there are
M. Ebel mentions an escape almost as miraculous. Others, that follow them, to me still more so;
L'an 1790, le nommé Christian Boren, propriéWhen once again he changes, once again
taire de l'auberge du Grindelwald, eut le malheur de Clothing himself in grandeur all bis own : When, like a Ghost, shudowless, colorless.
se jeter dans une fente du glacier, en le traversant He melts away into the Heaven of Heavens;
avec un troupeau de moutons qu'il ramenoit des pâtuHimself alone reveal'd, all lesser things
rages de Bâniseck. Heureusement qu'il tomba dans As though they were not!
le voisinage du grand torrent qui coule dans l'intériNote 5, page 41, col. 2.
eur, il en suivit le lit par-dessous les voûtes de glace, Two dogs of grave demeanor welcomed me.
et arriva au pied du glacier avec un bras cassé. Cet Berri, so remarkable for his sagacity, was dead. hor
homme est actuellement encore en vie." His skin is stuffed, and is preserved in the Museum
Manuel du Voyageur. Art. Grindelwald.
Note 13, page 43, col. 2.
--a wondrous monument.
Almost every mountain of any rank or condition The north-east wind. This description was writ-has such a bridge. The most celebrated in this coun
ltry is on the Swiss side of St. Gothard.
ten in June, 1816.
Note 14, page 44, col. 2.
speaking, escaped observation. If I cannot supply the Mine bat for those, who, like Jean Jacques, delight. deficiency, I will not follow their example; and hap « J'aime beaucoup ce tournoiement, pourvu que je py should I be, if by an intermixture of verse and sois en sûreté.”—Les Confessions, I. iv.
prose, of prose illustrating the verse, and verse em
bellishing the prose, I could furnish my countrymen Note 15, page 44, col. 2.
on their travels with a pocket-companion. -just where the Abbot fell.
Note 23, page 46, col. 2. “Où il y a environ dix ans, que l'abbé de St. Maurice, M. Cocatrix, a été précipité avec sa voiture, ses
In this neglected mirror. chevaux, sa cuisinière, et son cocher."- Descript. du As this is the only instance, with which I am acValais, p. 120.
quainted, of a Ghost in Italy since Brutus sat in his
tent, I give it as I received it; though in the catasNote 16, page 45, col. 1.
trophe I have been anticipated by a distinguished Painted by Cagliari.
writer of the present day. Commonly called Paul Veronese.
It was first mentioned to me by a friend, as we Note 17, page 45, col. 1.
were crossing the Apennines together. quaffing gramolata.
Note 24, page 47, col. 1.
She was wall'd up within the Castle-wall
Murato was a technical word for this punishment
Note 25, page 47, col. 1.
An old huntsman of the family met her in the baze
of the morning, and never went out again. Mastino de la Scala, the Lord of Verona. Cortusio,! She is still known by the name of Madonna Bianca the ambassador and historian, saw him so surround
Note 26, page 47, col. 1. ed.-L. 6. This house had been always open to the unfortu
Still glowing with the richest hues of art. nate. In the days of Can Grande, all were welcome :) Several were painted by Giorgione and Titian; as, Poets, Philosophers, Artists, Warriors. Each had his for instance, those of the Fondaco de Tedeschi and apartment, each a separate table ; and at the hour of the Ca' Grimani.--See VASARI. dinner, musicians and jesters went from room to
Note 27, page 47, col. 1. room. Dante, as we learn from himself, found an
the tower of Ezzelinasylum there.
Now an Observatory. On the wall there is a long Lo primo tuo rifugio, e'l primo ostello
inscription: “ Piis carcerem adspergite lacrymis," etc. Sarà la cortesia del gran Lombardo,
Ezzelino is seen by Dante in the river of bloodChe'n su la scala porta il santo uccelle.
Inferno, xii. Their tombs in the public street carry us back into the times of barbarous virtue; nor less so do those of
Note 28, page 47, col. 2. the Carrara Princes at Padua, though less singular
A vagrant crew, and careless of to-morrow. and striking in themselves. Francis Carrara, the
“ Douze personnes, tant acteurs qu'actrices, un Elder, used often to visit Petrarch in his small house souffleur, un machiniste, un garde du magasin, des at Arqua, and followed him on foot to his grave.
enfans de tout âge, des chiens, des chats, des singes,
des perroquets; c'étoit l'arche de Noé-Ma prédi. Note 20, page 46, col. 1.
lection pour les soubrettes m'arrêta sur Madame And shall I sup where Juliet at the Masque. Baccherini.”—GOLDONI. The old Palace of the Cappalletti, with its uncouth balcony and irregular windows, is still standing in a
Note 29, page 47, col. 2. lane near the market-place; and what Englishman
The lagging mules can behold it with indifference?
The passage-boats are drawn up and down the When we enter Verona, we forget ourselves, and Brenta. are almost inclined to say with Dante,
Note 30, page 47, col. 2.
That child of fun and frolic, Arlecchino.
A pleasant instance of his wit and agility was es.
hibited some years ago on the stage at Venice. It has been observed that in Italy the memory sees
“ The stutterer was in an agony; the word was inmore than the eye. Scarcely a stone is turned up that
exorable. It was to no purpose that Harlequin sug. has not some historical association, ancient or modern;
gested another and another. At length, in a fit of that may not be said to have gold under it.
despair, he pitched his head full in the dying man's
stomach, and the word bolted out of his mouth to Note 22, page 46, col. 1.
the most distant part of the house"-See Moore's Twice host thou lived already;
View of Society in Italy.
Note 31, page 47, col. 2. diligently explored the monuments of her former ex
A vast Metropolis. istence; while those of her latter have, comparatively: "I love," says a late traveller, "to contemplate, as I float along, that multitude of palaces and churches, " in the records of the Republic; and his house has, which are congregated and pressed as on a vast raft." from that time to this, been called La Corte del Mil_* And who," says anothor, “ can forget his walk lioni,” the house of the rich man, the millionnaire. through the Merceria, where the nightingales give It is on the canal of S. Giovanni Chrisostomo; and, you their melody from shop to shop, so that, shutting as long as he lived, was much resorted to by the your eyes, you would think yourself in some forest- curious and the learned. glade, when indeed you are all the while in the middle of the sea? Who can forget his prospect from the
Note 40, page 49, col. 2.
Down which the grizzly head of old Faliero great tower, which once, when gilt, and when the
Roll'd from the block. sun struck upon it, was to be descried by ships afar
of him and his conspiracy I had given a brief acoff; or his visit to St. Mark's church, where you see
count; but he is now universally known through a nothing, tread on nothing, but what is precious; the
| Writer, whose poetical talents command as much floor all agate, jasper; the roof mosaic; the aisle hung
the admiration of other countries as of his own. with the banners of the subject cities; the front and its five domes affecting you as the work of some
Note 41, page 49, col. 2. unknown people! Yet all this will presently pass
A short inscription on the Doge's chair away; the waters will close over it; and they, that
Led to another on the wall yet shorter. come, row about in vain to determine exactly where Marino Faliero dalla bella moglie: altri la gode ed it stood."
egli la mantiene.
Locus Marini Faletri, decapitati pro criminibus.
Note 42, page 49, col. 2.
“11 Conte, entrando in prigione, disse : Vedo bene Note 33, page 48, col. 2.
chi'o son morto, e trasse un gran sospiro."-SANUTO. Playing at Mora. A national game of great antiquity, and most prob
Note 43, page 49, col. 2. ably the “micare digitis” of the Romans.
And bore away to the canal Orfano.
A deep channel behind the island of S. Giorgo Note 34, page 48, col. 2.
Maggiore. - twelve Procurators. The procuratorship of St. Mark was the second
Note 44, page 50, col. 1.
"Who were the Six we supp'd with yesternight ?" dignity in the Republic.
An allusion to the Supper in Candide.-C. xxvi.
Note 45, page 50, col. 1.
"Who answer'd me just now?" brass was engraven with the words addressed by the See Schiller's Ghost-seer.-C. i. Pope to the Emperor, " Super aspidem,” etc.,
Note 46, page 50, col. 1.
“But who stands there, alone among them all ?"
See the history of Bragadino, the Alchymist, as Alexander III. He fled in disguise to Venice, and related by Daru.—Hist. de Venise, c. 28. is said to have passed the first night on the steps of A person yet more extraordinary is said to have San Salvatore. The entrance is from the Merceria, appeared there in 1687. near the foot of the Rialto; and it is thus recorded, “Those, who have experienced the advantages under his escutcheon, in a small tablet at the door: which all strangers enjoy in that City, will not be Alexandro III. Pont. Max. pernoctanti.
surprised that one who went by the name of Signor
Gualdi was admitted into the best company, though Note 37, page 49, col. 1.
none knew who or what he was. He remained there -resounding with their feet.
some months; and three things were remarked conSee Petrarch's description of them, and of the tour cerning him that he had a small but inestimable nament-Rer. Senil. 1. 4, ep. 2.
collection of pictures, which he readily showed to any
body—that he spoke on every subject with such a Note 38, page 49, col. 1.
mastery as astonished all who heard him and that some from merry England.
he never wrote or received any letter, never re" Recenti victoriâ exultantes," says Petrarch, al
quired any credit or used any bills of exchange, but luding, no doubt, to the favorable issue of the war |
paid for everything in ready money, and lived rein France. This festival began on the 4th of August,
Ust, spectably, though not splendidly. 1364
“This gentleman being one day at the coffee-house, Note 39, page 49, col. 1.
a Venetian nobleman, who was an excellent judge And lo, the madness of the Carnival.
of pictures, and who had heard of Signor Gualdi's Among those the most followed, there was always collection, expressed a desire to see them; and his a mask in a magnificent habit, relating marvellous request was instantly granted. After contemplating adventures and calling himself Messer Marco Mil- and admiring them for some time, he happened to lioni. Millioni was the name given by his fellow- cast his eyes over the chamber-door, where hung a citizens in his life-time to the great traveller, Marco portrait of the Stranger. The Venetian looked upon Polo. “I have seen him so described,” says Ramusio, it, and then upon him. This is your portrait, Sir," said he to Signor Gualdi. The other made no answer hour ?” said I to the gondolier. “ I cannot guese, Su; but by a low bow. Yet you look,' he continued, but, if I am not mistaken, it is the lover's hour." • like a man of fifty; and I know this picture to be “Let us go home," I replied ; and he turned the prow of the hand of Titian, who has been dead one hun-homeward, singing, as he rowed, the twenty-sixth dred and thirty years. How is this possible ?' . It is strophe of the sixteenth canto of the Jerusalem De not easy,' said Signor Gualdi gravely, ' to know all | livered. things that are possible ; but there is certainly no
Note 52, page 51, col. 1. crime in my being like a picture of Titian's.' The Venetian perceived that he had given offence, and
The young Bianca found her father's door. took his leave.
Bianca Capello. It had been shut by a baker's boy, “ In the evening he could not forbear mentioning as he passed by, at day-break; and in her despair she what had passed to some of his friends, who resolved fled with her lover to Florence, where he fell by as to satisfy themselves the next day by seeing the pic- sassination. Her beauty, and her love-adventure as ture. For this purpose they went to the coffee-house here related, her marriage afterwards with the Grand about the time that Signor Gualdi was accustomed Duke, and that fatal banquet at which they were both to come there; and, not meeting with him, inquired poisoned by the Cardinal, his brother, have rendered at his lodgings, where they learned that he had set her history a romance. The Capello Palace is on out an hour before for Vienna. This affair made a the Canalé di Canonico; and the postern-door, la great stir at the time."
porta di strada, is still on its hinges. It opens into
one of those narrow alleys so numerous at Venice. Note 47, page 50, col. 1. All eye, all ear, nowhere and everywhere.
Note 53, page 51, col. 1. A Frenchman of high rank, who had been robbed
It was St. Mary's Eve.at Venice, and had complained in conversation of the This circumstance took place at Venice on the first negligence of the Police, was on his way back to of February, the eve of the feast of the Purification the Terra Firma, when his gondola stopped suddenly of the Virgin, A. D. 944, Pietro Candiano, Doge. in the midst of the waves. He inquired the reason; and his gondoliers pointed to a boat with a red flag,
Note 54, page 51, col. 1. that had just made them a signal. It arrived ; and
Such splendor, or such beauty. he was called on board. “ You are the Prince del
de “E'l costume era, che tutte le novizzie con tutta la Craon ? Were you not robbed on Friday evening ?- dot
dote loro venissero alla detta Chiesa, dov'era il ves I was. Of what?–Of five hundred ducats.—And
covo con tutta la chieresia."-SANUTO. where were they ?-In a green purse. Do you suspect any body ?-I do, a servant.-Would you know
Note 55, page 51, col. 1. him again ?-Certainly.” The Interrogator with his
Her veil, transparent as the gossamer. foot turned aside an old cloak that lay there; and the Among the Habiti Antichi, in that admirable book Prince beheld his purse in the hand of a dead man. of wood-cuts ascribed to Titian (A. D. 1590), there “Take it; and remember that none set their feet is one entitled Sposa Venetiana a Castello. It was again in a country where they have presumed to taken froin an old painting in the Scuola di S. Giodoubt the wisdom of the government."
vanni Evangelista, and by the Writer is believed to Note 48, page 50, col. 2.
represent one of the Brides here described.
Note 56, page 51, col. 2.
That venerable pile on the sea-brink.
San Pietro di Castello, the Patriarchal church of
Note 57, page 51, col. 2. Saint-Marc que les patriciens se réunissaient tous les Well are they known, the galliot and the galley. jours. Le nom de cette promenade indiquait sa des- “Una galera e una galeotta."-SANUTO. tination ; on l'appellait il Broglio."-Daru.
Note 58, page 52, col. 1.
Laid at his feet.—
They were to be seen in the treasury of St. Mark I am indebted for this thought to some unpublished very lately. travels by the author of Vathek.
Note 59, page 52, col. 1.
And through the city in a stately barge.
| "Le quali con trionfo si conducessero sopra una piatta As in the time when Venice was herself.
pe 'canali di Venezia con suoni e canti.”-SANUTO. Goldoni, describing his excursion with the Passalacqua, has left us a lively picture of this class of
Note 60, page 52, col. 1. men.
- the Rialto. We were no sooner in the middle of that great An English abbreviation. Rialto is the name of lagoon which encircles the City, than our discreet the island from which the bridge is called ; and the gondolier drew the curtain behind us, and let us float Venetians say il ponte di Rialto, as we say West. at the will of the waves.-At length night came on, minster-bridge. and we could not tell where we were. "What is the In that island is the Exchange; and I have often