genuine, and independent, but our predecessors have seen, and said, like ourselves, and we who write last may exclaim with the Roman author:

Pereant qui ante nos dixere.

Nevertheless, frequent as are the tours to Italy, and multiplied as are the printed details of such travels, almost every successive journalist complains of the errors of his predecessors:- I also could expatiate on the inadequacy of many of the works I perused, and which circumstance partly induced me to record my own impressions, but last, and least of all, would I seek to insinuate any better opinion of my own work by depreciating the productions of others.-Different authors will have varying feelings even for the very same ob ject.-Italy more particularly presents the most exhaustless and diversified subjects for description; and those scenes which some may dwell upon with rapturous delight, others may pass by with cold indifference.

The general style of the ensuing narrative displays, perhaps occasionally, as much the character of the individual as the pretensions of an author.

-Written familiarly, and unaffectedly, it sometimes shows the unpremeditated effusions of the hour rather than the deliberate study of the head; while classical and critical accounts mingle amid the more playful and familiar incidents with friends and associates. One principle, however, predominates throughout:-the Love of Truth. Superior talent, and deeper research, I wish my book possessed; but, at least, it is not tainted with any intentional misrepresentation, or wilful exaggeration; and I hope it is unclouded by any prejudice. My account of objects is justly as I have seen them, and found them; and in this narrative, professedly descriptive, I have preferred the simple majesty of truth to all the embellishments of fancy, and all the splendors of fiction.

London, Nov. 1823.

CONTENTS OF VOL. I.

CHAPTER I.

Departure from Brighton-Dieppe-Church of St. Jacques

-French Diligence, and Horses-Rouen-Bridge of

Boats

service

-

Cathedral-Monuments-Festival-Catholic

1

CHAPTER II.

Route to Paris-Magnificent entrance by la Barriere de

Neuilly-Boulevards-Triumphal Pillar-St. Cloud-

Mons. Denon, and his Collection-Luxembourg Palace,

and Pictures-Jardin du Roi, and Galleries-AnimalsTM

-Reflections on them-Anecdote of Lion and Dog.. 16

CHAPTER III.

Louvre - Napoleon - Tuileries - Fete of St. Louis-

Water-works of Versailles-Cathedral of Notre Dame

and Crown of Thorns-La Morgue-Hopital des Inva-

lides St. Germain en Laye-Catacombs

CHAPTER IV.

-

333

Streets of Paris-Shop Signs-Fountains-French Cha-

racter, and Females

Advertising for Husbands

Living Cafes Theatres, and Tragedy Tivoli

- Palais Royal Gaming Cemetery of Pere la

Chaise-Bibliotheque du Roi-French manners-Dress 46

-

-

CHAPTER V.

Scenery of Lausanne-Dole-Horrors of War-Geneva

-History, and its sumptuary Laws-Old Lausanne-

Lake of Geneva-Clarens-Vevay-Chillon and Bon-

CONTENTS.

nivard-Mont Blanc-Valley of Chamouni-Sublimi-

ties of Nature-Hunting the Chamois Goat

CHAPTER VI.

Dangerous expedition to Montanvert-Mer de Glace, and

the Jardin des Alpes-Source of the Arveron-Fatal

Avalanche on Mont Blanc-Poetical effusions-La

Tete Noire-Fatal inundation of Martigny-St. Ber-

nard and perilous ascent-The Dogs-Summary of

Expenses-Cretins

CHAPTER VII.

70

87

Simplon, and its grandeurs-Lago Maggiore-Isola Madre

-Isola Bella, and Palaces-Bonaparte's Laurel Tree-

St. Carlo Borromeo, and his Colossal Statue-Milan-

Observations-Triumphal Arch-Festival dell' An-

gelo Custode-La Scala, Opera, and Signora Pallerini 110

CHAPTER VIII.

Milan-Summary of Ancient History, and Modern Go-

vernment-Cathedral, Statues, &c. and sumptuous

Subterranean Chapel of St. Carlo Borromeo-Church

of San Celso, and Miracles-Academy of Arts-Raphael

-Leonardo Da Vinci's Last Supper-Full-dressed Vir-

gin-Streets of Milan-Theatres-Infamous Column 127

CHAPTER IX.

Como-Cathedral-Lake of Como-Pedlars-Queen of

England and her Villa-Pliny's Villa and intermitting

Fountain-The Sommariva and Lodi Palaces-Lake

by Moonlight-Plains of Milan--Amphitheatre-Co-

ronation of Napoleon-Extraordinary Echo-Grand

Corso-Expenses to Genoa

CHAPTER X.

Pavia-Monastery of La Certosa-Sumptuous Chapels-

Battle of Pavia-University-Bridge over the Tessin,

142

and ancient description of that River-Boethius-An-

cient Genoa-Marengo-The Po, and Fable of Phaeton

-Valley of Polcivera-Genoa-Summary of Ancient,

and Modern History-Andrew Doria, and Revolution

effected by him in 1528-Conspiracy of Lewis Fiesco

in 1547-Doria Palace-Columbus...
.. 157

CHAPTER XI.

Ducal Palace Church of St. Ambrose-Church and

Bridge of Sa. Maria di Carignano-Hospital of Incur-

ables-Palazzo Serra, and Saloon of the Sun-Palazzo

Durazzo-Ditto of Andrew Doria-Cathedral of St.

Lawrence-Emerald Dish-Pictures in the Brignole

Palace-Arsenal-Roman Prow-Sculpture by Mi-

chael Angelo-Streets, Houses, &c. of Genoa-Genoese

Character-Inn of La Croce di Malta-Theatres .... 173

CHAPTER XII.

Leghorn-Bronze Slaves-Burial Ground-Quarantine-

Passage to and Gulf of Spezzia-Pisa, and Summary

of History-Leaning Tower-Cathedral-Baptistery

-Campo Santo, and Ancient Pictures-Church of

Santa Maria Della Spina-University-Baths of St.

Julian-Count Ugolino-Lucca-Summary of History

-Cathedral, and Miracle-Amphitheatre-Prato, and

under garment of the Virgin Mary....

CHAPTER XIII.

Florence Origin and History-Factions of the Guelphs

and Ghibellines-Summary of the History of the

Medici-Lorenzo the Magnificent-Conspiracy of 1478

-Murder of Giovanni-Bull of Sixtus IV.-Death of

Lorenzo-Government by Savonorala, the Preacher—

Popes Leo X, and Clement VII-Medicean Arms-

Succession and Fate of the various Medici till extinct

in 1737 Successive Governments by Austria and

France-Fæsulæ, and Antiquities-Church of St. Law-

188