was so studious of good to all men, and especially to posterity, that he ordered some of his books, covered with wax, to be buried with him, which may be of use in time to come." More extraordinary is the adjoining epitaph of his daughter Anne Spragg (1691), which narrates how, "having long declined marriage, and aspiring to great achievements, unusual to her age and sex, she, on the 30th of June, 1690, on board a fire-ship, in man's clothing-as a second Pallas, chaste and fearless-fought valiantly for six hours against the French, under the command of her brother."

Lindsey House (facing the river) was built by Sir Christopher Wren in 1674 for Robert, Earl of Lindsey, Lord Great Chamberlain, on the site of the house of Sir Theodore Mayerne (ob. 1655), who was physician to Henri IV. and Louis XIII. of France, and afterwards to James I. and Charles I. of England. Lord Lindsey had previously inhabited Lindsey House in Lincoln's Inn Fields. His descendant, the Duke of Ancaster, sold the house in 1751 to Count Zinzendorf, who lived there, while presiding over the Moravian community which he had established in Chelsea. The next house was at one time inhabited by John Martin, by whom there are remains of a fresco on the garden wall.

Zinzendorf bought some of the land belonging to Beaufort House for a burial-ground. In King's Road (No. 381) is the entrance of a green enclosure, containing his Chapel, a brick building with broad overhanging eaves, occupying the site of Sir Thomas More's stables: it is still the property of the Moravians. Against the outer wall is a monument to "Christopher Renatus, Count of Zinzendorf and Pollendorff, born Dec. 19, 1727, departed May 28,

1732," the only son of the founder of the Moravians, who died suddenly in Westminster Abbey. Close by is the monument of Henry LV. of Reuss (1816), his wife Maria Justina, and Henry LXXIII. of Reuss. Some brick walls which belonged to Sir Thomas More's house may still be seen to the south of the burial-ground.

Puggy

In No. 119 Cheyne Walk, a humble two-storied brick house facing the river and boats, the great painter J. M. W. Turner spent his latter days, shutting up his house in Queen Anne Street, that he might give himself up to the enjoyment of the soft effects upon the still reaches of the Thames. He lived here as Mr. Booth, but the Chelsea boys gave him the name of "Admiral Booth" or Booth." When he knocked at the door of this house and wished to engage the lodgings, the landlady asked him for references" References!" stormed the irascible old man ; "these, Ma'am, are my references," and he thrust a bundle of bank-notes in her face. Well, Sir, but what is your name?" Name, Ma'am, may I ask what is your name, Ma'am?" "Oh I am Mrs. Booth." "Well then, Ma'am, I am Mr. Booth." The still-existing balcony of the house was erected by Turner: he died here, Dec. 19, 1851.

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The old-fashioned terrace of Cheyne Row will always be interesting as having been the abode of the venerable historian, essayist, and philosopher, Thomas Carlyle. His house and its pictures have been well described in "Celebrities at Home," 1876, with his library, "perhaps the smallest, saving mere books of reference, that ever belonged to a great man of letters-explained by his magnificent memory."

Near the end of Church Street, Chelsea, was the famous

porcelain manufactory, which existed as early as 1698, but was at its zenith 1750-63. In 1764 it was removed to Derby, and the ware was then called Derby-Chelsea. Mr. De Morgan has lately established a manufactory in Chelsea, in imitation of the old Spanish lustre-ware.

Half a mile beyond Chelsea were Cremorne Gardens, long a place of public amusement, formerly belonging to Cremorne House.

The name of Peter's Eye or Island still lingers in that of Battersea on the opposite side of the river, which was part of the ancient patrimony of St. Peter's Abbey at Westminster. It was formerly famous for its asparagus beds.

Crossing Battersea Bridge (d.) and turning to the right, we reach the Church (of St. Mary), rebuilt at the end of the last century and very ugly. It is, however, worth while 'to enter it and ascend to the northern gallery, to visit a monument by Roubiliac to Henry St. John, Lord Bolingbroke, adored by Pope-whom he attended on his deathbed, and who considered him the first writer, as well as the greatest man, of his age; hated by Walpole as a political rival; lauded by Swift and Smollett; despised as "a scoundrel and a coward" by Dr. Johnson. His youth had been so wild that his father's congratulation when he was created a Viscount was, "Ah, Harry, I ever said you would be hanged; but now I find you will be beheaded." In 1715 he was impeached for high treason by the Whigs, and fled to the Court of Prince Charles Stuart, where he accepted the post of Secretary, which led in England to his attainder. His estates were restored in 1723, but his political career was closed, and the last ten years of his

life were spent in retirement at Battersea manor-house. His epitaph tells his story.

"Here lies Henry St. John, in the reign of Queen Anne, Secretary of War, Secretary of State, and Viscount Bolingbroke; in the days of George I. and George II. something more and better. His attachment to Queen Anne exposed him to a long and severe persecution; he bore it with firmness of mind. He passed the latter part of his life at home, the enemy of no national party, the friend of no faction; distinguished (under the cloud of proscription which had not been entirely taken off) by zeal to maintain the liberty, and to restore the ancient prosperity of Great Britain."

Mary Clara des Champs de Maurily, Viscountess Bolingbroke, is commemorated on the same monument, and there are many other St. John tombs in the church. In the south gallery is the monument of Sir Edward Wynter, 1685-6, with a relief portraying the two principal feats of this hero, which are thus recorded in his long epitaph

"Alone, unarm'd, a tyger he opprest,

And crush'd to death ye monster of a beast;
Twice twenty mounted Moors he overthrew,
Singly on foot, some wounded, some he slew,

Dispers'd ye rest.-What more could Samson doe?"

The repaired east window is especially interesting as having been given by Sir Thomas Boleyn, father of Queen Anne. It contains the portraits of Margaret Beaufort, mother of Henry VII., Henry VIII., and Elizabeth. In the crypt beneath the church the coffin of Bolingbroke and others of its illustrious dead were shown till lately. They are now (1877) put under ground. From the churchyard, girt on two sides by the lapping river, we may admire the picturesque Luff Barges, sometimes called Clipper Barges,

His great-granddaughter Anne Leighton married Sir John St. John of Battersea.

of a smaller class than the ordinary square barges of the Thames, and provided with a foresail only.

A mill and miller's house near the river (reached by the second gateway from the church in the direction of the bridge) contain all that remains of the old manorhouse where Bolingbroke died.

Battersea Park, formed in 1856-57, faces Chelsea Hospital. It is pretty in summer, and its sub-tropical garden, of four acres, is beautiful. Two bridges, Albert Bridge and New Chelsea Bridge, connect it with the opposite shore. It was in Battersea Fields that the Duke of Wellington fought a duel with the Earl of Winchilsea in 1829.

Maitland considers that this is the place where the Britons, after being defeated by Claudius, were compelled to ford the river, and were followed by the Emperor, who completely routed them. He also thinks that Julius Cæsar effected the passage of the Thames at this spot.

"History of London."

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