Earl Stafford, and his sister Constance, Lady Grey de Ruthyn.* It was the son of this duke who married the sister of Edward IV.

On the north-west of the Park are the Zoological Gardens, founded in 1826 (admission Is.: on Mondays and holidays 6d.)

Beyond the Park, on the north, rises the turfy eminence called Primrose Hill (206 feet high), at the foot of which the Tye Bourne formerly rose, and where the body of Sir Edmund Berry Godfrey, murdered near Somerset House, was found in a ditch, Oct 17, 1678. When the wind and smoke allow, there is a fine view of London from the summit of the hill, where there are seats and gravel walks.

Chalk Farm, on Primrose Hill, commemorated by a tavern, was the popular place for duels in the first part of the present century. Here (1803) the duel was fought between Colonel Montgomery and Captain Macnamara, in which the former was killed; here (1806) Tom Moore and Francis Jeffrey were interrupted in that duel of which Lord Byron made fun in his "English Bards and Scotch Reviewers;" and here another lamentable literary duel, which grew out of articles in Blackwood resulted in the death of the Editor of the London Magazine. The last fatal duel at Chalk Farm was that between Lieutenant Monro and Colonel Fawcett, July 1, 1843.

On the west of the Park is St. John's Wood, a vast colony of second-rate villas. The district belonged to the Prior of St. John's, Clerkenwell, who had his country manor at Tollentun (Tollington Road), Highbury. The rural state

The Duke's second wife, Anne, daughter of John Montacute, Earl of Salisbury, was buried in the same tomb, but without an effigy.

of the neighbourhood is commemorated in Lisson (formerly Listen) Grove, whose public-house is the "Nightingale." At St. John's Wood is Lord's Cricket Ground (admission 6d., or, when a first-class match is played, Is.). The great gathering here is for the Eton and Harrow match in July.

Before leaving the Regent's Park we may notice that at St. Dunstan's Villa are preserved the giants noticed by Cowper, which struck the hours on the old clock of St. Dunstan's in Fleet Street (see Ch. III.), and which were purchased by the fourth Marquis of Hertford on the demolition of the church.

The land now called the Regent's Park was once Marylebone Park, a royal hunting ground from the time of Elizabeth to the Protectorate, when Cromwell sold the deer and cut down the timber. A little to the south of the present Park the Marylebone Road now leads towards the hideous and populous district of Paddington. It passes the Church of St. Mary, which about 1400 gave the name Mary at the Bourne to a village previously called Tyborne, from the brook which flowed through it towards Brook Street, &c. The interior of the old church is shown in the marriage picture of Hogarth's "Rake's Progress." It was rebuilt in 1741. The burials here include Gibbs the architect, Rysbrach the sculptor, and Allan Ramsay the portrait painter.

Behind the manor-house of Marylebone, which stood on the site of Devonshire Mews, Devonshire Street, was the bowling-green which was the "Prince's" of the last century. Here John Sheffield, Duke of Buckingham, loved to besport himself, and led Lady Mary Wortley Montagu to write

"Some Dukes at Marylebone bowl time away."

It was in Marylebone Gardens that Mrs. Fountain, the famous beauty of the day, was saluted by Dick Turpin, who said, "Don't be alarmed; you may now boast that you have been kissed by Turpin."

Two miles and a half beyond Paddington, on the Harrow Road, is Kensal Green Cemetery, whither most of the funerals, which are so unnecessarily dismal a London sight, are wending their way. Here, in the labyrinths of monuments, we notice those of the Duke of Sussex, 1843; Princess Sophia, 1848; Rev. Sydney Smith, 1841; Allan Cunningham, 1842; Sir Augustus Callcott the artist, 1844; John Liston the actor, 1846; and Sir Charles Eastlake, 1865. In the Roman Catholic Cemetery beyond is the tomb of Cardinal Wiseman.

On the east the Marylebone Road falls into the Euston Road or New Road, where we may notice the Church of St. Pancras, built by Sir John Soane, who is described by Fergusson as one of the earliest and most successful architects of the revival." In this case, however, his work is an utter failure, though it cost £76,679. The slight portico is quite crushed by a ludicrous tower which presents two copies of the Temple of the Winds at Athens, the smaller on the top of the larger. The interior is taken from the Erechtheion. The side porticos are adorned with Canephora from the Pandroseion.

On the north of the road leading from King's Cross to Kentish Town is the old Church of St. Pancras in the Fields,* built c. 1180. The Speculum Britanniæ of 1593 says, "Pancras Church standeth all alone, utterly forsaken, old and

• It is best reached by turning to the left immediately before entering the Midland Railway Station.

wetherbeten, which for the antiquitie thereof, is thought not to yield to Paul's in London. About this church have bin manie buildings, now decaied, leaving poore Pancras without companie or comfort." It is understood that this church was the last whose bell tolled in England for mass, and in which any rites of the Roman Catholic religion were celebrated before the Reformation.* The church, which was like the humble church of a country village, is now hemmed in by railways, and was for the most part rebuilt in 1848, though it has still a look of antiquity. Its churchyard was deeply interesting, but its interest and its picturesqueness have been alike annihilated in 1876-77, many of its graves being covered up by hideous asphalt walks, and as many as five thousand gravestones being torn from their graves and either made away with altogether, or set up in meaningless rows against the railway wall, their places being occupied by silly rockwork. Other monuments, some very handsome, have been robbed of all but the flat stones which covered them, which have been laid upon the earth. The ground itself has been levelled where it was possible, instead of having advantage taken of its undulations; and the new walks, instead of being made to wind amongst the tombs, are arranged in stupid symmetrical lines, everything in the way being sacrificed and cut away for them. In fact, the whole place is desecrated and ruined.

Entering the church, we may notice on the north wall, under the gallery, an unknown monument of Purbeck marble, with recesses for brasses. In the north gallery is a monument to Thomas Doughty, 1691, first owner of the Doughty estate, of which the name became so familiar in Timbs, "Curiosities of London.";

the Tichborne trial. On the south wall is a tablet to Samuel Cooper, the miniature-painter, the "Apelles of England" 1672. Near the chancel door is a monument to William Platt and his wife, 1637, removed from Highgate.

The neighbourhood of St. Pancras was peopled at the end of the last century by noble fugitives from the great French Revolution, and for the most part they are buried in this churchyard, which is crowded with remarkable memorials of the dead. On the right of the church door is the gravestone of William Woollett, the famous engraver (1785), which bore the lines

"Here Woollett rests, expecting to be sav'd;
He gravèd well, but is not well engraved :"

an inscription which is supposed to have led to the after erection of a tablet in the cloisters of Westminster Abbey. On the north of the churchyard is the tomb of William Godwin (1836), described on his tombstone as Author of Political Justice," known chiefly by his novel of "Caleb Williams," ""the cream of his mind, while the rest (of his works) are the skimmed milk.”* With him rest his two wives, of whom the first was the notorious Mary Wolstonecraft, author of the "Vindication of the Rights of Women,"† whose daughter Mary promised to become the wife of the poet Shelley by her mother's grave. Close by once lay the remains of Pasquale Paoli, the Corsican patriot, with a eulogistic Latin epitaph upon his gravestone.

Amongst the other graves of interest we may notice those of the exiled Archbishop Dillon of Narbonne; of Grabe

Allan Cunningham, "Riog. and Crit. Hist."

Their remains are said to have been removed to Bournemouth.