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evenings at Metternich's, the same lounges the “disagreeables" of the voyage down the for making purchases and visits on a morn-Danube will be changed into agreeables, we ing, the same idleness and fatigue at night, shall allude no more to the noble traveller's the searching and arid climate, and the voyage than to say, that on the 4th of Noclouds of execrable fine dust," -all con-vember, a day of more than autuinpal beau. spiring to tell the great of the earth that|ty, his steamer anchored in the Bosphorus. they can escape ennui no more than the Here we were prepared for a burst of delittle.
scription. But the present describer is a On leaving Vienna, he wrote a note of matter-of-fact personage ;-and though he farewell to the prince, who returned an an- makes no attempt at poetic fame, bas the swer, of remarkable elegance--a mixture of faculty of telling what he saw, with very the pathetic and playful. His note says that sufficient distinctness. “I never experienced he has no chance of going to see anybody, more disappointment," is his phrase, “than for he is like a coral fixed to a rock-both in my first view of the Ottoman capital. I must move together. He touches lightly was bold enough at once to come to the con. on their share in the great war, “which is clusion, that what I had heard or read was now becoming a part of those times which overcharged. The most eminent of the dehistory itself names heroic ;' and concludes scribers, I think, could never have been on by recommending him on his journey to the the spot.” Such is the plain language of the care of an officer of rank, on a mission to last authority. “The entrance of the Tagus, Turkey—“Car il sçait le Ture, aussi bien the Bay of Naples, the splendid approach of que nous deux ne le sçavons pas." With this the grand quays of St. Petersburg, the KremVoltairism he finishes, and gives his “ Dieu lin, and the view of Moscow, all struck me protege."
as far preferable to the scene at the entrance We now come to the Austrian steam pas. of the Bosphorus." sage. This is the boldest effort that Austria He admits, that in the advance to the has ever made, and its effects will be felt city up this famous channel, there are through every generation of her mighty em- many pretty views, that there is a line of pire. The honor of originating this great handsome residences in some parts, and design is due to Count Etienne Zecheney, that the whole has a good deal the a Hungarian nobleman, distinguished for look of a “drop-scene in a theatre ;" still every quality which can make a man a ben- he thinks it poor in comparison of its deefactor to his country. The plan of this scriptions, the outline low, feeble, and steam-navigation is now about ten years old. rugged, and that the less it is examined The marquis justly observes, that nothing probably the more it may be admired. Even more patriotic was ever projected; and it the famous capital fares not much better. is mainly owing to this high-spirited noble." In point of fine architectural features, monman that the great advantage is now enjoyeduments of art, and magnificent structures, of performing, in ten or twelve days, the excepting only the great mosques), the journey to the capital of Turkey, which chisel of the mason, the marble, the granite, some years ago could be achieved only by Constantinople is more destitute than any riding the whole way, and occupying, by other great capital. But then, you are told couriers, two or three weeks. The chief that these objects are not in the style and direction of the company is at Vienna. It taste of the people. Be it so; but then do had, at the time of the tour, eighteen boats, not let the minds of those who cannot see varying from sixty to one hundred horse for themselves be led away by high-wrought power, and twenty-four more were to be and fallacious descriptions of things which added within the year. Some of these were do not exist." The maxim is a valuable to be of iron.
one, and we hope that the rebuke will save But the poverty of all foreign countries the reading public from a heap of those is a formidable obstacle to the progress of picturesque" labors, which really much magnificent speculations like those. The more resemble the heaviest brush of the shares have continued low, the company has scene-painter, than the truth of nature. bad financial difficulties to encounter, and But if art has done little, nature has done the popular purse is tardy. However, the wonders for Constantinople. The site con. prospect is improving; the profits have in- tains some of the noblest elements of beauty creased; and the Austrian archdukes and and grandeur; mountain, plain, forest, many of the great nobles having lately taken waters: its position is obviously the key of shares, the steam-boats will probably soon Europe and Asia Minor-even of more, it become as favorite as they are necessary. Jis the point at which the north and south But all this takes time; and as by degrees meet; by the Bosphorus it commands the communication of the Black Sea, and with water and the bridge, but also by the road, it of all the boundless region, once Scythia, which by the land is a distance of five or and now Russia and Tartary ; by the Dar. six miles. Viewing Constantinople as a danelles, it has the most immediate com- whole, it strikes one as being larger by far mand over the Mediterranean, the most than Paris or London, but they are both important sea in the world. Russia, doubto larger. The reason of the deception being, less, may be the paramount power of the thai here the eye embraces a larger space. Black Sea; the European nations may di. The Turks never improve any thing. The vide the power of the Mediterranean; but distinction between them and the EuropeConstantinople, once under the authority ans is, that the latter think of conveniences, of a monarch, or a government adequate the former only of luxuries. The Turks, to its natural facilities, would be more for example, build handsome pavilions, plant directly the sovereign of both seas, than showy gardens, and erect marble fountains Russia, with its state machinery in St. to cool them in marble halls. But they Petersburg, a thousand miles off, or France never mend a high-road-they never even a thousand miles, or England more nearly make one. Now and then a bridge is two thousand miles. This dominion will forced on them by the necessity of having never be exercised by the ignorant, proflione, or being drowned; but they never regate, and unprincipled Turk; but if an in- pair that bridge, nor sweep away the accudependent Christian power should be esta mulated abomination of their streets, por blished there, in that spot lie the materials do any thing that it is possible to leave un. of empire. In the fullest sense, Constan- done. tinople, uniting all the high-roads between Pera is the quarter in which all the east and west, and north and south, is the Christians, even of the highest rank, live : centre of the living world. We are by no the intercourse between it and Constantino. means to be reckoned among the theorists ple is, of course, perpetual, yet perhaps a who calculate day by day on the fall of stone has not been smoothed in the road Turkey. In ancient times the fall of guilty since the siege of the city. From Pera empires was sudden, and connected with were the most harassing trips down ruge marked evidences of guilt. But those events ged declivities on horseback, besides the were so nearly connected with the fortunes awkwardness of the passage in boats. of the Jewish people, that the suddenness One extraordinary circumstance strikes of the catastrophe was essential to the les. the stranger, that but one sex seems to exson. The same necessity exists no longer, ist. The dress of the women gives no idea the Chosen People are now beyond the of the female form, and the whole populalesson, and nations undergo suffering, and tion seems to be male. approach dissolution, by laws not unlike The masses of people are dense, and those of the decadence of the human frame; among them the utmost silence in general the disease makes progress but the evidence prevails. About seven or eight at night searcely strikes the eye, and the seat of the the streets are cleared, and their only tendistemper is almost beyond human investi- ants are whole hosts of growling, hideous gation. The jealousy of the European dogs; or a few Turks gliding about with powers, too, protects the Turk. But he paper lanterns; these, too, being the only must go down-Mahometanism is already lights in the streets, if streets they are 10 decaying. Stamboul, its head-quarters, will be called, which are only narrow passes, not survive its fall; and a future generation through which the vehicles can scarcely will inevitably see Constantinople the sent move. of a Christian empire, and that empire, not The dogs are curious animals. It is proimprobably, only the forerunner of an em- bable that civilization does as much injury pire of Palestine.
to the lower tribes of creation, as it does The general view of Constantinople is good to man. If it polishes our faculties, superb. A bridge has been thrown across it enfeebles their instincts. The Turkish the “Golden Horn,” connecting its shores; dog, living nearly as he would have done and from this the city, or rather the four in the wilderness, exhibits the same sagacities, spread out in lengthened stateliness city, amounting to something of govern. before the eye. From this point are seen, ment. For instance, the Turkish dogs to the most striking advantage, the two divide the capital into quarters, and each mountainous elevations on which Constan- set bas its own; if an adventurous or an tinople and Pera are built, and other heights ambitious dog enters the quarters of bis surrounding. A communication subsists neighbors, the whole pack in possession set across the “Golden Horn,” not only by I upon him at once, and he is expelled by hue and cry. They also know how to con- the pipes. Then came a dropping fire of duct themselves according to times and conversation, then coffee; then sherbet, seasons. In the daytime, they ramble which the guest pronounced good, and about, and suffer themselves to be kicked" thought the most agreeable part of the with impunity; but at night the case is dif. ceremonial.” The Minister spoke French ferent: they are the majority-they know fluently, and, after an hour's visit, the ceretheir strengih, and insist on their privileges. mony ended-the pasba politely attending They howl and growl then at their own dis. his visiter through the rooms. The next cretion, fly at the accidental stranger with visit was to Achmet Pasha, who had been open mouths, attack him singly, charge him in England at the time of the Coronation-en masse, and nothing but a stout bludgeon, had been ambassador at Vienna for some wielded by a strong arm, can save the pas. years-spoke French fluently-was a great senger from feeling that he is in the king friend of Prince and Princess Metternich, dom of his four-footed masters.
and, besides all this, had married one of the The Marquis arrived during the Ramazan, Sultan's sisters. The last honor was said when no Turk eats, drinks, or smokes, from to be due to his immense wealth. It seems suprise to sunset. Thus the Turk is a harder that the “course of true love” does not faster than the papist. The moment the sun run more smoothly in Turkey than else. goes down, the Turk rushes to his meal and where-for the young lady was stated to be his pipe, “not eating but devouring, not in love with the commander-in-chief, an inhaling but wallowing in smoke.” At the older man, but possessing more character. Bajazet colonnade, where the principal Achmet was now Minister of Commerce, Turks rush to enjoy the night, the lighted and in high favor. He kept his young wife coffee-houses, the varieties of costume, the at his country house, and she had not been eager crowd, and the illumination of myri- seen since her marriage. When asked perads of paper lanterns, make a scene that mission for ladies to visit her, he always revives the memory of Oriental tales. deferred it "till the next spring, when,"
Everything in Turkey is unlike any said he, “ she will be civilized.” The third thing in Europe. In the bazar, instead of nocturnal interview was more picturesque the rapid sale and dismissal in our places -it was with the young Sultana's flame, of traffic, the Turkish dealer, in any case the Seraskier (commander-in-chief). His of value, invites his applicant into his shop, residence is at the Porte, where he has one makes him sit down, gives him a pipe, of the splendid palaces. smokes him into familiarity-hands him al “You enter an immense court, with his stables cup of coffee, and drinks him into confi. on one side and his harem on the other. A regi. dence; in short, treats him as if they were ment of guards was drawn up at the entrance, and a pair of ambassadors appointed to dine two companies were stationed at the lower court. and bribe each other converses with, and | The staircase was filled with soldiers, slaves, and cheats him. But the Marquis regards the
attendants of different nations. I saw Greeks,
Armenians, Sclavonians, Georgians, in all their bazars as contemptible places, says they | native costume ; and dark as were the corridors are not to be compared with similar estab- and entrance, by flashes of my flambeaux through lishments at St. Petersburg or Moscow, and the mist, the scene struck me as much more grand recommends whatever purchases are made, and imposing than the others. The Seraskier is to be made at one's own quarters, " where a robust, soldier-like man, with a fierce look and you escape being jostled, harangued, smok- / beard, and an agreeable smile.” ed, and poisoned with insufferable smells.” The Minister was peculiarly polite, and
One of the curious features of the sojourn showed him ibrough the rooms and the war at Constantinople, is the presentation to department, exhibiting among the rest, his the Ministers and Sultan. Redschid Pasha military council, composed of twenty-four appointed to see the Marquis at three officers, sitting at that moment. They o'clock, a la Turque-which, as those Ori. were of all ranks, and chosen, as it was entals always count from the sunset, means said, without any reference to qualification, eigbt o'clock in the evening.
but simply by favor. The Turks still act He was led in a kind of procession to the as oddly as ever. A friend of the Marquis Minister, received in the customary man. told him, that he had lately applied to ner, and had the customary conversation the Seraskier to promote a young Turkish on Constantinople, England, the war, etc. officer. A few days after, the officer came Then, a dozen slaves entered, and universal to thank him, and said that though the Sesmoking began. “When the cabinet was raskier had not given him the command of so full of smoke that one could hardly see,” a regiment, he had given him “the comthe attendants returned, and carried away mand of a ship.” The true wonder is, that
the Turks have either ships or regiments. they end in giving her the full possession But there is a fine quantity of patronge in of the northern road into Asia Minor. Ros. the department-the number of clerks alone sia, in possession of Constantinople, would being reckoned at between seven and eight have the power of inflicting dreadful inja. hundred.
ries on Europe. If she possessed a respon. The opinions of the Marquis on Mediter-sible government, her ambition might be rancan politics are worth regarding, be- restrained by public opinion; or the neces, cause he has had much political experience sity of appealing to the national representin the highest ranks of foreign life-be. atives for money—of all checks on war the cause from that experience he is enabled to most powerful, and in fact the grand opera. give the opinions of many men of high name tive check, at this moment, on the most and living influence, and because he is an restless of European governments, France. honest man, speaking sincerely, and speak. But with her whole power, her revenues, ing intelligibly. He regards the preserva. and her military means completely at the tion of Turkey as the first principle of all disposal of a single mind, her movements, English diplomacy in the east of Europe, for either good or evil, are wholly depend. and considers our successive attempts to ent on the caprice, the ambition, or the abmake a Greek kingdom, and our sufferance surdity of the individual on the throne. The of an Egyptian dynasty, as sins against the idea that Russia would weaken her power common peace of the world. Thus, within by the possession of Constantinople, seems a few years, Greece has been taken away; to us utterly incapable of proof. She has Egypt has not merely been taken away, but been able to maintain her power at once on rendered dangerous to the Porte; the great the Black Sea, seven hundred miles from Danubian provinces, Moldavia and Walla- her capital; on the Danube, at nearly the chia, have been taken away, and thus Rus- same distance, and on the Vistula, pressing sia has been brought to the banks of the on the Prussian frontier. In Constantinople Danube. Servia, a vast and powerful pro- she would have the most magnificent fort. vince, has followed, and is more Russian ress in the world, the command of the head than Turkish ; and while those limbs have of the Mediterranean, Syria, and inevitably been torn from the great trunk, and that Egypt. By the Dardanelles, she would be trunk is still bleeding from the wounds of wholly inaccessible; for no fleet could pass, the late war, it is forced to more exhaust if the batteries on shore were well manned, ing efforts, the less power it retains. But, The Black Sea would be simply her wet. with respect to Russia, he does not look dock, in which she might build ships while upon her force and her ambition with the there was oak or iron in the north, and build alarm generally entertained of that en them in complete security from all disturbcroaching and immense power. He even ance; for all the fleets of Europe could not thinks that, even if she possessed Constan. reach them through the Bosphorus, even if tinople, she could not long retain it. they had forced the Dardanelles—that must
As all this is future, and of course con- be the operation of an army in the field. jectural, we may legitimately express our On the north, Russia is almost wholly in. doubts of any authority on the subject. vulnerable: the Czar might retreat until his That Russia does not think with the mar- pursuers perished of fatigue and hunger. quis, is evident, for all her real movements The unquestionable result of the whole is, for the last fifty years have been but pre. that Russia is the real terror of Europe. liminaries to the seizure of Turkey. Her France is dangerous, and madly prone to ezhibitions in all other quarters have been hostilities; but France is open on every side, mere disguises. She at one time displays and experience shows that she never can a large feet in the Baltic, or at another resist the combined power of Russia and
sends an army across Tartary; but she Germany. It is strong evidence of our po. never attempts any thing with either, ex- sition, that she has never ultimately triumph
cept the excitement of alarm. But it is ined in any war against England; and the exthe direction of Turkey that all the solid perience of the last war, which showed her, advances are made. There she always fin- with all the advantages of her great military ishes her hostility by making some solid chief, her whole population thrown into the acquisition. She is now carrying on a waste- current of war, and her banner followed by ful war in the Caucasus ; its difficulty has vassal kings, only the more consummately probably surprised herself, but she still car- overthrown, should be a lesson to her for ries it on; and let the loss of life and the all ages. But Russia has never been effectexpenditure of money be what they will, ually checked since the reign of Peter the she will think them well encountered if Great, when she first began to move. Even disastrous wars have only hastened her ad- slight made, and active, with sallow cheeks, vance; keen intrigue has assisted military many near yellow, orange, and even black; violence; and when we see even the de- still, if well fed and clothed, they would by struction of Moscow followed by the final no means make bad light troops. The Turks subjugation of Poland, we may estimate the armed and clothed them forthwith, andscat. sudden and fearful superiority which she tered them among their regiments; a prowould be enabled to assuine, with her foot ceeding which shows that even the Turk is standing on Constantinople, and her arm sharing the general improvement of man. stretching at will over Europe and Asia. kind. Once he would have thrown them all Against this tremendous result, there are into the Bosphorus. but two checks—the preservation of the From this professional display, the MarOsmanli government by the jealousy of the quis adjourned to the “Grand Promenade," Europeau states, and the establishment of a where ihe sultanas see the world, unseen Greek empire at Constantinople: the former, themselves, in their carriages. “Though,” the only expedient which can be adopted for as he writes, “I never had an opportunity the moment, but in its nature temporary, of verifying any thing like Miss Pardoe's imperfect, and liable to intrigue: the latter, anecdote of the sentries being ordered to natural, secure, and lasting. It is to this face about when presenting arms,' rather event that all the rational hopes of European than be permitted to gaze on the tempting politicians should be finally directed. Yet, and forbidden fruit ; but, on the contrary, while the Turk retains possession, we must witnessed soldiers escorting all the sultana's adhere to him; for treaties must be rigidly carriages; it is nevertheless true that a gruff observed, and no policy is safe that is not attendant attacked and found fault with me strictly honest. But if the dynasty should for daring to raise my eyes to a beautiful fail, or any of those unexpected changes Turkish woman, whom it was quite impos. occur which leave great questions open, sible I could admire beyond her forehead the formation of a Greek empire ought to and two black eyes, eyebrows, and lashes, be contemplated as the true, and the only, which glanced from under her yashmack." mode of effectually rescuing Europe from But the Marquis has no mercy on the perthe most formidable struggle that she has formances of poor Miss Pardoe. ever seen. But the first measure, even of The sultan-mother was a personage of temporary defence, ought to be the fortifi. high importance at this time, from her snpcation of Constantinople. It is computed posed influence over her son. Her equipage that the expense would not exceed a million was somewhat European-a chariot, with and a half sterling.
hammer-cloth (apparently recently receiv. The Marquis, by a fortunate chance for a ed from long Acre). The coachman drove looker-on, happened to be in the Turkish four large bay horses, with a plurality of capital at the time when the populace were reins. There were attendants, running all exulting at the capture of Acre. It was Turks, and guards before to clear the way. admitted that the British squadron had done Two open barouches, ornamented after the more in rapidity of action, and in effect of manner of the country, followed ; and the firing, than it was supposed possible for ships rear of the sultana's procession was closed to accomplish, and all was popular admira. by arebas (or covered and gilded vans) full tion, and ministerial gratitude. In addition of women and slaves. to the lighting of the mosques for the Ra. But the most characteristic display of all mazan,Pera and Constantinople were lighted is the “ Cabinet.” “On the side of this drive up, and the whole scene was brilliant. Con- is a long colonnade of shops ; and, at the stant salvos were fired from the ships, and bottom of it, a barber's, in which all the minbatteries during the «lay, and at night, of isters of the divan and the pasha assemble ! course, all was splendid on the seven hills They sit on cushions in grand conclave and of the great city.
conference ; and, while affecting to discuss On the “Seraskiers, Square" two of the the affairs of the state, the direction of their Egyptian regiments taken at Beyront defiled eyes, and their signs to the recumbent before the commander-in-chief. The Turkishhouris in the carriages, show their thoughts bands in garrison moved at their head. The to be directed to other objects." prisoners marched in file ; and, having but What should we think of the chancellor, just landed from their prison-ships, looked the premier, and the three secretaries of wretchedly. Having a red woollen bonnet, state, sitting in council at a fruiterer's in white jackets, and large white trowsers, Regent street, and nodding to the ladies as they looked like an assemblage of "cricket- they pass? But this is not all. The sultan, ers.” The men were universally young, I in his kiosk sits at one end of the drive, in.