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ever born of this generation of wonders, occur until the parties are beyond the reach steam; and if once realized, must be a most of human disappointments, they cannot feel prolific source of good to mankind. But the worse in case of failure; but the vanity the Germans are an intolerably tardy race which tempts a man thus to declare himself in every thing, but the use of the tongue. deserving of perpetual renown, by the act They barangue, and mystify, and magnify, of sending his bust as a candidate, is perbut they will not act; and this incompara- fectly foreign, and must be continually ridible design, which, in England, would join culous. the whole power of the nation in one una- The temple has been inaugurated or connimous effort, languishes among the philo- secrated by the king in person, within the sophists and prognosticators of Germany, last month. He has made a speech, and finds no favor in the eyes of its formal dedicated it to German fame forever. He courts, and threatens to be lost in the smoke certainly has had the merit of doing what of a tobacco-saturated and slumber-loving ought to have been long since done in every people.
kingdom of Europe ; what a slight retrenchBut the chief monument of Bavaria is ment in every royal expenditure would bave the Val Halla, a modern temple designed to enabled every sovereign to set on foot; and receive memorials of all the great names of what could be done most magnificently, Germany. The idea is kingly, and so is would be most deserved, and ought to be the temple ; but it is built on the model of done without delay in England. the Parthenon-evidently a formidable blun- At Ratisbon, the steam navigation on the der in a land whose history, habits, and Danube begins, taking passengers and car. genius, are of the north. A Gothic temple riages to Linz, where the Austrian steam na. or palace would have been a much more vigation commences, completing the course suitable, and therefore a finer conception. down the mighty river. The former land The combination of the palatial, the cathe journey from Ratisbon to Vienna generally dral, and the fortress style, would have given occupied six days. By the steam-boat, it is scope to superb invention, if invention was now accomplished in forty-eight hours, a to be found in the land ; and in such an prodigious saving of space and time. The edifice, for such a purpose, Germany would Bavarian boats are smaller than those on have found a truer point of union than it the Rhine, owing to the shallows on the will ever find in the absurd attempt to mix upper part of the river, but they are well opposing faiths, or in the nonsense of a rebel managed and comfortable. The steamer is, Gazette, and clamorous Gazetteers. in fact, a floating hotel, where every thing
Still the Bavarian monarch deserves the is provided on board, and the general arcredit of an unrivalled zeal to decorate his rangements are exact and convenient. The country. He is a great builder; he has scenery in this portion of the river is highly filled Munich with fine edifices, and called exciting. “The Rhine, with its hanging in the aid of talents from every part of woods and multitudinous inhabited castles, Europe, to stir up the flame, if it is to be affords a more cultivated picture; the found among his drowsy nation.
steep and craggy mountains of the Danube, The Val Halla is on a pinnacle of the in its wild outlines and dilapidated castles, rising ground, about a hundred yards from the imagination embraces a bolder range. the Danube, from whose bank the ascent is At one time the river is confined within its by a stupendous marble staircase, to the narrowest limits, and proceeds through a grand portico. The columns are of the defile of considerable altitude, with overfinest white stone, and the interior is com- hanging rocks, menacing destruction. At pletely lined with German marbles. Busts another it offers an open, wild Archipelago of the distinguished warriors, poets, states of islands. The mountains have disapmen, and scholars, are to be placed in the peared, and a long plain bounds on each niches round the walls, but not till they are side of the river its barren banks." dead. A curious arrangement is adopted The steam-boats stop at Neudorf, a Gerwith respect to the living; persons of any man mile from Vienna. On his arrival, the public note may send their busts, while Marquis found the servants and carriage of living, to the Val Halla, where they are de. Prince Esterhazy waiting for him, and quarposited in a certain chamber, a kind of ters provided at the Swan Hotel, until one marble purgatory or limbo. When they of the prince's palaces could be prepared die, a jury is to sit upon them, and if they for his reception. The importance of getting are fortunate enough to have a verdict in private quarters on arriving at Vienna is their favor, they take their place among the great, the inps being all indifferent and marble immortals. As the process does not noisy. They have another disqualification
not less important—they seem to be toler. private. He lived on a second floor, in a ably dear. The Marquis's accommodations, Gine house, of which, however, the lower though on a third story of the Swan, cost part was understood to be still unfurnished. him eight pounds sterling a-day. This he His lordship sees but few people, and seljustly characterizes as extravagant, and says dom gives any grand receptions, his indif. he was glad to remove on the third day, ferent health being the reason for living there being an additional annoyance, in privately." However, on this point the a club of the young nobles at the Swan, Marquis has his own conceptions, which he which prevented a moment's quiet. The gives with a plainness perfectly characcuisine, however, was particularly good, and teristic, and very well worth being rememthe house, though a formidable affair for a bered. family, is represented as desirable for a "bachelor"-we presume, a rich one. “I think,” says he, “that an ambassador of
Vienna has had her share in the general England, at an imperial court, with eleven thouimprovement of the Continent. She has
sand pounds per annum ! should not live as a
privaie gentleman, nor consult solely his own become commercial, and her streets exhibit
ease, unmindful of the sovereign he represents. shops with gilding, plate-glass, and showy A habit has stolen in among them of adopting a sign-boards, in place of the very old, very spare menage, to augment private fortune when barbarous, and very squalid, displays of the recalled! This is wrong. And when France last century. War is a rough ieacher, but and Russia, and even Prussia, entertain conit is evidently the only one for the Conti- sta
i stantly and very handsomely; our embassies
Jand legations, generally speaking, are niggardly nent. The foreigner is as bigoted to his
and shut up." original dinginess and discomfort, as the Turk to the Koran. Nothing but fear or However the Lord Beauvale and his class force ever changes him. The French in- may relish this honesty of opinion, we are vasions were desperate things, but they satisfied that the British public will perfectswept away a prodigious quantity of the Lly agree with the Marquis. A man who cobwebs which grow over the heads of na receives £11,000 a year to show hospitalitions who will not use the broom for them.ty and exhibit state, ought to do both. But selves. Feudalities and follies a thousand there is another and a much more important years old were trampled down by the foot point for the nation to consider. Why of the conscript; and the only glimpses of should eleven thousand pounds a year be common sense which have visited three given to any ambassador at Vienna, or at fourths of Europe in our day, were let in any other court of the earth? Cannot bis through chinks made by the French bayonet. actual diplomatic functions be amply served The French were the grand improvers of for a tenth of the money? Or what is the every thing, though only for their own ob-actual result, but to furnish, in nine instan. jects. They made high roads for their own ces out of ten, a splendid sinecure to some troops, and left them to the Germans; they man of powerful interest, without any, or cleared the cities of streets loaded with but slight reference to his faculties? Or puisances of all kinds, and taught the na. is there any necessity for endowing an em. tives to live without the constant dread of bassy with an enormous income of this pestilence; they compelled, for example, order, to provide dinners, and balls, and a the Portuguese to wash their clothes, and central spot for the crowd of loungers who the Spaniards to wash their hands. They visit their residences; or to do actual misproved to the German that his ponderous chief by alluring those idlers to remain ab. fortifications only brought bombardments on sentees from their own country? his cities, and thus induced him to throw We see no possible reason why the whole down his crumbling walls, fill up his muddy ambassadorial establishment might not be ditches, turn his barren glacis into a public cut down to salaries of fifteen hundred a walk, and open his wretched streets to the year. Thus, men of business would be em. light and air of heaven. Thus Hamburg, ployed, instead of the relatives of our cabi. and a hundred other towns, have put on a nets; dinner-giving would not be an essennew face, and almost begun a new existence. tial of diplomacy : the ambassador's house Thus Vienna is now thrown open to its would not be a centre for all the ramblers suburbs, and its suburbs are spread into the and triflers who preferred a silly and lavish country,
life abroad to doing their duty at home;" The first days were given up to dinner at and a sum of much more than a hundred thou. the British ambassador's (Lord Beauvale's), sand pounds a year would be saved to the at the Prussian ambassador's, and at Prince country, Jonathan acts the only rational part Metternich's. Lord Beauvale was “nearly on the subject. He gives his ambassador
a sum on which a private gentleman can|pressive face more distinctly marked ; the live, and no more. He has not the slight. erect posture was still maintained, but the est sense of giving superb feasts, furnish- gait had become more solemn; and when ing huge palaces, supplying all the rambling he rose from his chair, he had no longer his Jonathans with balls and suppers, or aston-wonted elasticity. ishing John Bull by the tinsel of his ap- ! But this inevitable change of the exterior pointments. Yet he is at least as well seems to have no effect on the “inner man." served as others. His man is a man of “In the Prince's conversation. I found the business; his embassy is no showy sinecure; same talent, the unrivalled esprit. The his ambassador is no showy sinecurist. fluency and elocution, so entirely his own, The office is an understood step to distinc. were as graceful, and the memory was as tion at home; and the man who exhibits perfect, as at any former period." ability here, is sure of eminence on his re- This memorable man is fond of matrimo. turn. We have not found that the Ameri-ny; his present wife, a daughter of Count can diplomacy is consigned to mean hands, Zichy Ferraris, being his third. A son of or inefficient, or despised in any country. the second marriage is his heir, and he has
The relative value of money, too, makes by his present princess two boys and a girl. the folly still more extravagant. In Vienna, The Princess seems to have alarmed her £11,000 a year is equal to twice the sum guest by her vivacity : for he describes her in England. We thus virtually pay £22,000 in the awful language with which the world a-year for Austrian diplomacy. In France speaks of a confirmed blue : “ Though not so about the same proportion exists. But in handsome as her predecessor, she combines Spain, the dollar goes as far as the pound a very spirited expression of countenance, in England. There £10,000 sterling would with a clever conversation, a versatility of be equivalent to £40,000 here. How long genius, and a wit rather satirical than hu. is this waste to go on? We remember a morous, which makes her somewhat formida. strong and true exposé, made by Sir James ble to her acquaintance.” We dare say Graham, on the subject, a few years ago; that she is a very showy tigress. and we are convinced that, if he were to The Marquis found Vienna less gay than take up the topic again, he would render it was on his former visit.-It is true that the country a service of remarkable value; he then saw it in the height of the Congress, and, moreover, that if he does not, it will fushed with conquest, glittering with all be taken up by more strenuous, but more kinds of festivity : and not an individual in dangerous hands. The whole system is bad spirits in Europe, but Napoleon him. one of lavish absurdity.
self. Yet in later times the court has The Russian ambassador's dinner " was changed; "the Emperor keeps singularly of a different description. Persection in aloof from society; the splendid court-days cuisine, wine, and attendance. Sumptuous are no more; the families are withdrawing ness in liveries, and lights; the company, into coteries; the beauties of former years about thirty, the élite of Vienna."
have lost much of their brilliancy, and a But the most interesting of those ban. new generation equal to them has not yet quets, from the character of the distinguish appeared." ed giver, was Prince Metternich's. The This is certainly not the language of a prince was residing at his “Garten,” (villa) young marquis: but it is probably not far iwo miles out of town. He had enlarged from the estimate which every admirer of his house of late years, and it now consist the sex makes, after a five-and-twenty years ed of three, one for his children, another absence. But he gallantly defends them for his own residence, and a third for his against the sneer of that cleverest of her guests. This last was" really a fairy edifice, sex, Lady Wortley Montagu, a hundred 80 contrived with reflecting mirrors, as to years ago; her verdict being, “That their give the idea of being transparent." It was costume disfigured the natural ugliness with ornamented with rare malachite, prophyry, which Heaven had been pleased to endow jasper, and other vases, presents from the them.” He contends, however, that speak sovereigns of Europe, besides statues, and ing within the last twenty (he probably copies of the most celebrated works of Italy. means five-and-twenty) years, “ Vienna has
The Marquis had not seen this eminent produced some of the handsomest women person since 1823, and time had played its in the world: and in frequenting the public part with his countenance; the smile was walks, the Prater, and places of amusement, more languid, the eye less illumined, the you meet as many bewitching countenances, person more slight than formerly, the hair especially as to eyes, hair, and tournure, as of a more silvery hue, the features of his ex-l in any other capital whatever.”
We think the Marquis fortunate ; for we are understood to be of different principles; must acknowledge, that in our occasional the latter leaning to the “Movement," or, rambles on the Continent, we never saw more probably, allowing himself to be beauty in a German visage. The rotundity thought to do so, for the sake of popularity. of the countenance, the coarse colors, the But Metternich is the true head. A Con: stunted nose, and the thick lip, which con- servative from the beginning, sagacious stitute the general mould, of the native enough to see through the dupery of the physiognomy, are to us the very antipodes pretended friends of the human race, and of beauty. Dress, diamonds, rouge, and firm enough to crush their hypocrisy-Met. lively manners, may go far, and the ball. ternich is one of those statesmen, of whom room may help the deception; but we men of sense never could have had two strongly suspect that where beauty casually opinions—a mind which stamped itself from appears in society, we must look for its ex. the beginning as a leader, compelled by istence only among foreigners to Teuteh- circumstances often to yield, but never suiland. The general state of intercourse, fering even the most desperate circumstaneven amongst the highest circles, is dull. ces to make it despair. He saw where the There are few houses of rank where strango strength of Europe lay, from the commenceers are received; the animation of former ment of the Revolutionary war; and, guidtimes is gone. The ambassadors live re-ed by the example of Pitt, he labored for a tired. The monarch's state of health makes general European alliance. When he failed bim averse to society. Prince Metternich's there, he husbanded the strength of Austria house is the only one constantly open, for the day of struggle, which he knew “ but while he remains at his Garten, to would come ; and when it came, his genius trudge there for a couple of hours' general raised his country at once from a defeated conversation, is not very alluring." Still, dependency of France, into the arbiter of for a family which can go so far to look for Europe. While this great man lives, he cheap play.houses and cheap living, Vienna ought to be supreme in the affairs of his is a convenient capital.
country. But in case of his death, General But Austria has one quality, which shows Fiquelmont, the late ambassador to Russia, her common sense in a striking point of has been regarded as probable successor. view. She abhors change. She has not a He is a man of ability and experience, and radical in her whole dominions, except in his appointment to the court of St. Petersjail-the only place fit for him. The agita- burg was probably intended to complete tions and vexations of other governments that experience, in the quarter to which stop at the Austrian frontier. The people Austria, by her new relations, and especihave not made the grand discovery, that ally by her new navigation of the Danube, universal suffrage is meat and drink, and must look with the most vigilant anxiety. annual parliaments lodging and clothing. The Austrian army is kept up in very fine They labor, and live by their labor; yet condition ; but nearly all the officers disthey have as much dancing as the French, tinguished in the war are dead, and its preand better music. They are probably the sent leaders have to acquire a name. It is richest and most comfortable population of only to be hoped that they will never have Europe at this hour. Their country has an opportunity. The regimental officers risen to be the protector of Southern Eu-are generally from a higher class than those rope ; and they are making admirable high- of the other German armies. ways, laying down railroads, and building After remaining for a fortnight at Vienna, steam-boats, ten times as fast as the French, the Marquis paid a visit to his friend Prince with all their regicide plots, and a revolu- Esterhazy. tion threatened once-a-month by the calen- This nobleman, long known and much dar of patriotism. “Like the great Danube, esteemed in England, is equally well known which rolls through the centre of her do- to be a kind of Monarch in Hungary. minions, the course of her ministry and its Whatever novelist shall write the “ Troutributary branches continue, without any bles of rank and riches," should take the deviation from its accustomed channel.” prince for his hero. He has eight or nine The comparison is a good one, and what princely mansions scattered over the emcan be more fortunate than such tranquil. pire, and in each of them it is expected, by lity ?
his subjects of the soil, that his highness The two leading ministers, the govern should reside. ment in effect, are Metternich and Kollow- The Marquis made a round of the prinrath; the former the Foreign Minister, the cipal of those mansions. The first visit latter the Minister of the Interior. They I was to a castle in the neighborhood of Vi. enna, which the prince has modernized into was received with great politeness and cona magnificent villa. Here all is constructed descension. Next day he had an interview to the taste of a statesman only eager to es- with Prince Metternich, who, with graceful cape the tumult of the capital, and pining familiarity, took him over his house in Vi. to refresh himself with cooling shades and enna, to show him its improvements since crystal streams. All is verdure, trout the days of Congress. He remarks it as a streams, leafy walks, water blue as the sky strange point in the character of this celeabove it, and the most profound privacy brated statesman, how minutely he some. and seclusion.
times interests himself in mere irifles, espeAfter a “most exquisite entertainment" cially where art and mechanism are con. here, the Marquis and his family set out cerned. He had seen him one evening re. early next morning to visit Falkenstein. main for half an hour studiously examining Every castle in this part of the world is his- the construction of a musical clock. The torical, and derives its honors from a Turk-prince then showed his cabinet de travail, ish siege. Falkenstein, crowning the sum which he had retained unchanged. “llere," mit of a mountain of granite, up which no said he, “is a spot which is exactly as it was carriage can be dragged but by the stout the last day you saw it.” Its identity had Hungarian horses trained to the work, has been rigidly preserved, down to the placing been handsomely bruised by the Turkish of its paper and pencils. All was in the balls in its day ; but it is now converted into same order. The prince evidently, and just. a superb mansion ; very grand, and still ly, looked on those days as the glory of his more curious than grand; for it is full of life. . relics of the olden time, portraits of the old We regret that the conversation of so warriors of Hungary, armor and arms, and eminent a person could not be more largely all the other odd and pompous things which given ; for Metternich is less a statesman turn an age of barbarism into an age of rothan statesinanship itself. But one remark mance. The prince and princess are hailed was at once singularly philosophical and and recived at the castle as king and queen. practical. In evident allusion to the mis. A guard of soldiers of the family, which the erable tergiversations of our whig policy, Esterhazy have the sovereign right to main. a couple of years since, he said, “that tain, form the garrison of his palatial for throughout life, he bad always acted on the tress, and it has a whole establishment of plan of adopting the best determination on all salaried officials within. The next expedi- important subjects. That to this point of tion was to two more of those mansions- view he had steadfastly adhered ; and that, Esterhazy, built by one of the richest princes in the indescribable working of time and of the house, and Eisenstadt. The former circumstances, it bad always happened to him resembles the imperial palace at Schonbrun, that matters were brought round to the very but smaller. The prince is fitting it up gor- spot from which, owing to the folly of misgeously in the Louis XIVth style. Here he guided notions or inexperienced men, they has his principal studs for breeding horses; had for a time taken their departure.” This but Eisenstadt outshone all the chateaus of was in 1840, when the whigs ruled us; it this superb possessor. The splendors here must be an admirable maxim for honest were regal. Two hundred chambers for men, but it must be perpetually thwarting guests—a saloon capable of dining a thou. the oblique. To form a view on principle, sand people-a battalion of the “Esterhazy and to adhere to it under all difficulties, is Guard” at the principal entrances; all paid the palpable way to attain great ultimate from the estate. To this all the ornament. success; but the paltry and the selfish, the al part was proportioned-conservatory and hollow and the intriguing, have neither green-houses on the most unrivalled scale power nor will to look beyond the moment
three or four hundred orange-trees alone, they are not steering the vessel to a har. throwing the Duke of Northumberland's bor-they have no other object than to keep garden into eclipse, and stimulating his possession of the ship as long as they can, Grace of Devonshire even to add new greens and let her roll wherever the gale may carry and glories to Chatsworth.
her. On his return to Vienna, the marquis was After all, one grows weary of every thing honored with a private interview by the em. that is to be had for the mere act of wishing. peror-a remarkable distinction, as the am- Difficully is essential to enjoyment. High bassador was informed “that the emperor life is as likely to tire on one's hands as any was too well acquainted with the marquis's other. The marquis, giving all the praise services to require any presentation, and of manners and agreeability to Vienna, sums desired that he might come alone.” He up all in one prodigious yawn. "The same