Brussels, and, he believes, "all Leopold's kingdom together."

session of a country so close to her empire as to be in fact a province. But still, with Antwerp, At Antwerp, he happened to arrive at the and other fortresses, Holland in the rear, and celebration of the fete in honor of Rubens. England, aiding perhaps with a British army, Hanover and Germany at hand, and above all, "To commemorate the painter may be all the independence of King Leopold's throne and very well," he observes; "but it is not very kingdom might be more permanently secured by well to see a large plaster-of-Paris statue adhering to the Allies, than if he linked himself erected on a lofty pedestal, and crowned to Louis Philippe, in whose power alone, in case with laurels, while the whole population of of non-resistance to France, he would ever afterthe town is called out for fourteen days towards remain; and far better would it be, in my gether, to indulge in idleness and dissipa- if he would achieve for the dynasty an honoraopinion, for this founder of a Belgian monarchy, tion, merely to announce that Rubens was ble duration, to throw himself into the arms of a famed Dutch painter in times long past." the many, and reap advantages from all, than to We think it lucky for the Marquis that he place his destiny at the mercy of the future had left Antwerp before he called Rubens rulers of France." Dutch painter. We are afraid that he would have hazarded a summary application of the Lynch law of the Flemish avengers of their country.

a

No doubt this is sound advice; and if the decision were to depend on himself, there can be as little doubt that he would be wiser in accepting the honest aid of England, than throwing his crown at the feet of France. But he reigns over a priest-ridden kingdom, and Popery will settle the point for him on the first shock. His situation certainly is a singular one; as the uncle of the Queen of England, and the son-in-law of the King of France, he seems to have two anchors dropped out, either of which might secure a throne in ordinary times. But times that are not ordinary may soon arise, and then he must cut both cables and trust to his own steerage. If coldness is prudence, and neutrality strength, he may weather the storm; but it would require other qualities to preserve Belgium.

"If such celebrations," says the Marquis, "are proper, why not do equal honor to a Shakspeare, a Pitt, a Newton, or any of those illustrious men by whose superior intelligence society has so greatly profited ?" The obvious truth is, that such" celebrations" are not to our taste; that there is something burlesque, to our ideas, in this useless honor; and that we think a bonfire, a discharge of squibs, or even a discharge of rhetoric, and a display of tinsel banners and buffoonery, does not supply the most natural way of reviving the memory of departed genius. At the same time, they have their use, where they do not create their ridicule. On the Continent, life is idle; and the idlers are more harmlessly employed Brussels was full of English. The Margoing to these pageants, than in the gin- qnis naturally talks in the style of one acshop. The finery and the foolery together customed to large expenditure. The chief also attract strangers, the idlers of other part of the English residents in Brussels, towns; it makes money, it makes conversa- are families who live there on three or tion, it makes amusement, and it kills time. four thousand a year-far better as to luxCan it have better recommendation to nine-uries and education than they could in Enty-nine hundredths of mankind?

In 1840, when this tour was written, all the politicians of the earth were deciding, in their various coffee-houses, what all the monarchs were to do with the Eastern question. Stopford and Napier were better employed, in battering down the fortifications of Acre, and the politicians were soon relieved from their care of the general concerns of Europe. England settled this matter as she had often done before, and by the means which she has always found more natural than protocols. But a curious question is raised by the Marquis, as to the side on which Belgium would be inclined to stand in case of an European struggle; his opinion being altogether for the English alliance.

"France could undoubtedly at first seize pos

gland for half as much more.' "He evidently thinks of three or four thousand a year, as others might think of as many hundreds. But if any families, possessed of thousands a year, are living abroad for the mere sake of cheaper luxuries and cheaper education, we say, more shame for them. We even can conceive nothing more selfish and more contemptible. Every rational luxury is to be procured in England by such an income. Every advantage of education is to be procured by the same means. We can perfectly comprehend the advantages offered by the cheapness of the Continent to large families with narrow incomes; but that the opulent should abandon their country, their natural station, and their duties, simply to drink champagne at a lower rate, and have cheaper dancing-masters, we must always

heavy silver spurs, formed the foreground of his extended body. A black satin waistcoat, overlaid with gold chains, a black velvet Spanish cloak and hat, red beard and whiskers, and a face resembling the Saracen's on Snow-Hill, completed his ensemble." He was probably some travelling mountebank aping the Spanish grandee.

regard as a scandalous dereliction of the in light blue, with long Spanish boots, and services which every man of wealth and rank owes to his country, his neighbors, and his nation. Of course, we except the traveller for curiosity; the man of science, whose object is to enlarge his knowledge; and even the man of rank, who desires to improve the minds of his children by a view of continental wonders. Our reprobation is, of the habit of living abroad, and living there for the vulgar and unmanly purpose of self-indulgence or paltry avarice. Those absentees have their reward in profligate sons, and foreignized daughters, in giving them manners ridiculous to the people of the Continent, and disgusting to their countrymen-morals adopting the gross ness of continental life, and general habits rendered utterly unfit for a return to their country, and, of course, for any rational and meritorious conduct, until they sink into the grave.

Aix-la-Chapelle exhibited a decided improvement on the City of the Congress five and twenty years ago. The principal streets were now paved, with fine trottoirs, the buildings had become large and handsome, and the hotels had undergone the same advantageous change. From Liege to Cologne the country exhibited one boundless harvest. The vast cathedral of Cologne at last came in sight, still unfinished, though the process of building has gone on for some hundred years. The extraordinary attempt which has been made, within the last few months, The Marquis, who in every instance sub- to unite Protestantism with Popery, in the mitted to the rough work of the road, took completion of this gigantic building, will the common conveyance by railroad to give a new and unfortunate character in Liege. It has been a good deal the custom history. The union is impossible, though of our late tourists to applaud the superior the confusion is easy, and the very attempt excellence of the continental railroads. Our to reconcile them only shows to what abnoble traveller gives all this praise the surdities men may be betrayed by political strongest contradiction. He found their in- theories, and to what trivial and temporary feriority quite remarkable. The materials, objects the highest interests of our nature all of an inadequate nature, commencing may be sacrificed. Cologne, too, is rapidly with their uncouth engine, and ending with improving. The free navigation of the Rhine their ill-contrived double seats and carriages has done something of this, but the free pasfor passengers. The attempts made at order sage of the English has done a great deal and regularity in the arrangements alto- more. A perpetual stream of British travelgether failed. Every body seemed in con- lers, flowing through Germany, benefits it, fusion. The carriages are of two sorts-not merely by their expenditure, but by their the first class, and the char-a-banc. The habits. Where they reside for any length latter are all open; the people sit back to of time, they naturally introduce the imback, and face to face, as they like, and get provements and conveniences of English to their places by scrambling, squeezing, life. Even where they but pass along, they and altercation. Even the Marquis had a demand comforts, without which the native hard fight to preserve the seats he had taken would have plodded on forever. The hotels for his family. At Malines, the train changes are gradually provided with carpets, firecarriages. Here a curious scene occurred. places, and a multitude of other matters An inundation of priests poured into all the essential to the civilized life of England; for carriages. They came so thick that they if civilization depends on bringing the highwere literally thrown back by their attempt est amount of rational enjoyment within to squeeze themselves in ;" and their cocked the reach of general society, England is hats and black flowing robes gave them the wholly superior in civilization to the shiverappearance of ravens with their wide spread-ing splendors of the Continent. Foreigners ing wings, hovering over their prey in the vehicles."

Travelling, like poverty, brings one acquainted with strange companions; and accustomed as the Marquis was to foreign life, one railway traveller evidently much amused him. This was a personage who stretched himself at full length on a seat opposite the ladies, "his two huge legs and thighs clothed

are beginning to learn this; and those who are most disposed to scoff at our taste, are the readiest to follow our example.

The streets of Cologne, formerly dirty and narrow, and the houses, old and tumbling down, have given way to wide spaces, handsome edifices, and attractive shops. The railway, which we have lent to the Continent, will shortly unite Brussels, Liege,

and Cologne, and the three cities will there- [grape is unique. The chief portion of the by be rapidly augmented in wealth, numbers, and civilization.

produce goes among the principalities and powers of the Continent; yet as the Eng The steam-boats on the Rhine are in lishman must have his share of all the good general of a good description. The ar- things of the earth, the Johannisberg wine rangements are convenient, considering that finds its way across the Channel, and John at times there are two hundred passengers, Bull satisfies himself that he shares the luxand that among foreigners the filthy habitury of Emperors. of smoking, with all its filthy consequences, The next lion is Ehrenbreitstein, lying is universal; but, below decks, the party, on the right bank of the Rhine, the most especially if they take the pavilion to them- famous fortress of Germany, and more freselves, may escape this abomination. The quently battered, bruised, and demolished, Rhine has been too often described to re- than any other work of nature or man on the quire a record here; but the rapturous non-face of the globe. It has been always the sense which the Germans pour forth when-first object of attack in the French inva ever they write about the national river, sions, and, with all its fortifications, has aloffends truth as much as it does taste. The ways been taken. The Prussians are now larger extent of this famous stream is abso-laying out immense sums upon it, and evilutely as dull as a Dutch pond. The whole dently intend to make it an indigestible run from the sea to Cologne is flat and fenny. As it approaches the hill country it becomes picturesque, and its meanderings among the fine declivities of the Rheingate exhibit beautiful scenery. The hills, occasionally topped with ruins, all of which have some original (or invented) legend of love or murder attached to them, indulge the romance of which there is a fragment or a fibre in every bosom; and the general aspect of the country, as the steam-boat breasts the upward stream, is various and luxuriant. But the German architecture is fatal to beauty. Nothing can be more barbarian (with two exceptions) than the whole range of buildings, public and private, along the Rhine; gloomy, huge, and heavy-whether palace, convent, chateau, they have all a prison-look; and if some English philanthropist, in pity to the Teutonic taste, would erect one or two " English villas" on the banks of the Rhine, to give the Germans some idea of what architecture ought to be, he would render them a national service, scarcely inferior to the introduction of carpets and coal-fires.

Johannisberg naturally attracts the eye of the English traveller, whose cellar has contributed so largely to its cultivation. This mountain-vineyard had been given by Napoleon to Kellerman; but Napoleon's gifts were as precarious as himself, and the Johannisberg fell into hands that better deserved it. At the peace of 1814 it was presented by the Emperor Francis to the great statesman who had taught his sovereign to set his foot on the neck of the conqueror of Vienna. The mountain is terraced, clothed with vineyards, and forms a very gay object to those who look up to it from the river. The view from the summit of the hill is commanding and beautiful, but its

morsel to the all-swallowing ambition of their neighbors; but it is to be hoped that nations are growing wiser-a consummation to which they are daily arriving by growing poorer. Happily for Europe, there is not a nation on the Continent, which would not be bankrupt in a single campaign, provided England closed her purse. In the last war she was the general paymaster; but that system is at an end; and if she is wise, she will never suffer another shilling of hers to drop into the pocket of the foreigner.

The Prussians have formed an entrenched camp under cover of this great fortress, capable of containing 120,000 men. They are obviously right in keeping the French. as far from Berlin as they can; but those enormous fortresses and entrenched camps are out of date. They belonged to the times when 30,000 men were an army, and when campaigns were spent in sieges. Napoleon changed all this, yet it was only in imitation of Marlborough, a hundred years. before. The great duke's march to Bavaria, leaving all the fortresses behind him, was the true tactic for conquest. He beat the army in the field, and then let the fortresses drop one by one into his hands. The change of things has helped this bold system. Formerly there was but one road through a province-it led through the principal fortress-all the rest was mire and desolation. Thus the fortress must be taken before a gun or a wagon could move. Now, there are a dozen roads through every provincethe fortress may be passed out of gun-shot in all quarters-and the "grand army" of a hundred and fifty thousand men marches direct on the capital. The tetes-du-pont on the Niemen, and the entrenched camp which it had cost Russia two years to fortify, were

Beyond Mayence the Rhine reverts to its former flatness, the hills vanish, the shores are level, but the southern influence is felt, and the landscape is rich.

turned in the first march of the French; on the evident intention of the Great Powers and the futility of the whole costly and to establish an interest among the little rather timorous system was exhibited in the sovereignties of Germany. Thus, Russia fact, that the crowning battle was fought has married "her eldest daughter to an within hearing of Moscow. adopted Bavarian. The Cæsarowitch is married to a princess of Darmstadt," etc. He might have added Louis Philippe, who is an indefatigable advocate of marrying and giving in marriage. Austria is extendWisbaden is the next stage of the English ing her olive branches as far as she can ; -a stage at which too many stop, and from and all princes, now having nothing better which not a few are glad to escape on any to do, are following her example. terms. The Duke of Nassau has done all| Yet, we altogether doubt that family alin his power to make his watering-place liances have much weight in times of trouhandsome and popular, and he has succeed-ble. Of course, in times of peace, they ed in both. The Great Square, containing may facilitate the common business of poli the assembly-room, is a very showy speci- tics. But, when powerful interests appear men of ducal taste. Its colonnades and on the stage, the matrimonial tie is of slenshops are striking, and its baths are in the der importance; kindred put on their coatshighest order. Music, dancing, and prome- of-mail, and, like Francis of Austria and his nading form the enjoyment of the crowd, son-in-law Napoleon, they throw shot and and the gardens and surrounding country shell at each other without any ceremony. give ample indulgence for the lovers of air It is only in poetry that Cupid is more pow and exercise. The vice of this place, as of erful than either Mammon or Mars. all continental scenes of amusement, is gambling. Both sexes, and all ages, are busy at all times in the mysteries of the gaming-table. Dollars and florins are constantly changing hands. The bloated Ger. man, the meagre Frenchman, the sallow Russian, and even the placid Dutchman, hurry to those tables, and continue at them from morning till night, and often from night till morning. The fair sex are often as eager and miserable as the rest. It is impossible to doubt that this passion is fatal to more than the purse. Money becomes the price of every thing; and, without meaning to get into discussion on such to- But the Marquis is discontented with the pics, nothing can be clearer than that the inns; which, undoubtedly, are places of female gambler, in this frenzy of avarice, importance to the sojourner-perhaps of inevitably forfeits the self-respect which much more importance than the palaces. forms at least the outwork of female virtue. He reckoned them by a "sliding scale," Though the ancient architecture of Ger- which, however, is a descending one-Holmany is altogether dungeon-like, yet they land bad, Belgium worse, Germany the can make pretty imitations. The summer third degree of comparison. Some of the palace of the duke at Biberach might be inns in the great towns are stately; but it adopted in lieu of the enormous fabrics unluckily happens that the masters and which have cost such inordinate sums in mistresses of those inns are to the full as our island. "The circular room in the stately, and that, after a bow or courtesy at centre of the building is ornamented with the door to their arriving guests, all their magnificent marble pillars. The floor is part is at an end. The master and mistress also of marble. The galleries are stuccoed, thenceforth transact their affairs by deputy. with gold ornaments incrusted upon them. They are sovereigns, and responsible for From the middle compartment of the great nothing. The garçons are the cabinet, and hall there are varied prospects of the Rhine, responsible for every thing; but they, like which becomes studded here with small superior personages, shift their responsibil islands: and the multitudinous orange, myr-ity upon any one inclined to take it up; tle, cedar, and cypress trees on all sides and all is naturally discontent, disturbance, render Biberach a most enchanting abode." and discomfort. We wonder that the MarThe Marquis makes some shrewd remarks quis has not mentioned the German table

The next lion is Frankfort-a very old lion, 'tis true, but one of the noblest cities of Germany, connected with high recollec tions, and doing honor, by its fame, to the spirit of commerce. Frankfort has been always a striking object to the traveller; but it has shared, or rather led the way to the general improvement. Its shops, streets, and public buildings all exhibit that march, which is so much superior to the "march of mind," panegyrized by our rabble orators-the march of industry, activity, and invention; Frankfort is one of the liveliest and pleasantest of continental residences.

d'hôte among his annoyances; for he dined |lant soldier, whom in days of difficulty, he at it. Nothing, in general, can be more had been rejoiced to find at his side; and adverse to the quiet, the ease, or the good the ground assigned was, that the monarch sense of English manners. The table-d'hôte received none but in uniform; the Marquis is essentially vulgar; and no excellence of having mentioned, that he must appear in cuisine, or completeness of equipment, can plain clothes, in consequence of despatchprevent it from exhibiting proof of its ori-ing his uniform to Munich, doubtless under ginal purpose, namely to give a cheap the idea of attending the court there in his dinner to a miscellaneous rabble. proper rank of a general officer.

German posting is on a par with German inns, which is as much as to say that it is detestable, even if the roads are good. The roughness, mire, and continual ascents and descents of the roads, try the traveller's patience. The only resource is sleep; but even that is denied by the continual groanings of a miserable French horn, with which the postilion announces his approach to every village.

The Marquis was angry, and the fragment of his reply, which we give, was probably as unpalatable a missive as the little king had received since the days of Napoleon.

"My intention was, to express my respect for his majesty, in taking this opportunity to pay my court to him, in the interesting recollection of the and my brother at Vienna, when Prince Royal kindly feelings which he deigned to exhibit to me

of Bavaria.

"I had flattered myself, that as the companionin-arms of the excellent Marshal Wrede in the campaigns of 1814 and 1815, his majesty would have granted this much of remembrance to an least, would have done me the honor of a private individual, without regard to uniform; or, at audience. I find, however, that I have been mistaken, and I have now only to offer my apologies to his majesty.

"The flattering reception which I have enjoyed in other courts, and the idea that this was dividual, and not dependent on the uniform, was the cause of my indiscretion. As my profound respect for his majesty was the sole feeling which led me toward Munich, I shall not delay a moment in quitting his majesty's territory."

connected with the name and services of the in

If his majesty had been aware that this Parthian arrow would have been shot at him he would have been well advised in relaxing his etiquette.

"Silence, ye wolves, while tipsy Mein-Herr howls, Making night hideous; silence him, ye owls." The best chance of getting a tolerable meal in the majority of these road-side houses, is, to take one's own provisions, carry a cook, if we can, and, if not, turn cook ourselves; but the grand hotels are too "grand" for this, and they insist on supplying the dinner, for which the general name is cochonerrie, and with perfect justice. On the 12th of September, the Marquis and his family arrived at Nuremburg, where the Bavarian court were assembled, in order to be present at a Camp of Exercise. To the eye of an officer who had been in the habit of seeing the armies of the late war, the military spectacle could not be a matter of much importance, for the camp consisted of but 1800 men. But he had been a comrade of the king, when prince-royal, during In the vicinity where this trifling transacthe campaigns of 1814 and 1815; and, as tion occurred, is the locale of an undertaksuch, had helped (and not slightly) to keeping which will probably outlast all the little the tottering crown on the brow of Bavaria. diadems of all the little kings. This is the He now sent to request the opportunity of canal by which it is proposed to unite the paying his respects, but Germany, absurd Rhine, the Mayne, and the Danube; in other in many things, is especially so in point of words, to make the longest water commuetiquette. Those miraculous productions of nication in the world, through the heart of Providence, the little German sovereigns, Europe, by which the Englishman embarklive ou etiquette, never abate an atom of ing at London-bridge may arrive at Constantheir opportunities of convincing inferior tinople in a travelling palace with all the mortals that they are of a super-eminent comforts-nay, all the luxuries of life around breed: and, in part, seem to have strangely him; his books, pictures, furniture, music, forgotten that salutary lesson which Napo- and society; and all this, while sweeping leon land his captains taught them, in the through some of the most magnificent scenedays when a republican brigadier, or an im-ry of the earth, safe from surge or storm, perial aid-de-camp, though the son of a tailor, treated their "Serene Highness" and "High Mightiness" with as little ceremony as the thoroughly beaten deserved from the conquerors. In the present instance, the little king did not choose to receive the galVOL. I. No. II.

27

sheltered from winter's cold and summer's sun, rushing along at the rate of a couple of hundred miles a-day, until he finds himself in the Bosphorus, with all the glory of the City of the Sultans glittering before him.

This is the finest speculation that was