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this proud scene of his triumphs, but never by your cortejo shall die! replied the sergeant the old soldiers of Aragon and the Austrias, whoHo! ho! my lads, get ready your arms, and assisted to vanquish the French at Salamanca send four bullets through the fellow's brain.' and the Pyrenees. I have heard the manner of Munos was forthwith led to the wall, and comriding of an English jockey criticised, but it was pelled to kneel down; the soldiers levelled their by the idotic heir of Medina Celi, and not by a muskets, and another moment would have conpicador of the Madrilenian bull-ring."-pp. 246 signed the unfortunate wight to eternity, when -256.
Christina, forgetting every thing but the feelings At Madrid Mr. Borrow applied for assist
of her woman's heart, suddenly started forward
with a shriek, exclaiming, "Hold, hold! I sign, I ance in his printing business to our minister, I sign! Mr. Villiers (now Lord Clarendon), and from * The day after this event, I entered the Puerta him and his secretary, Mr. Southerne, he del Sol at about noon. There is always a crowd received all the support and countenance he there about this hour, but it is generally a very could have hoped or expected. The charac- quiet, motionless crowd, consisting of listless ter and manners of the missionary made, we
idlers, calmly smoking their cigars, or listening have no doubt, a very favorable impression of
to or retailing the-in general--very dull news
ession of the capital; but on the day of which I am on those accomplished functionaries, and speaking, the mass was no longer inert. There through their recommendation he at last was much gesticulation and vociferation, and received a hint that, though a formal license several people were running about, shouting, was out of the question, his operations 'Vive la constitucion !'-a cry which, a few days should be winked at. He printed his Bible previously, would have been visited on the utterer accordingly, and he also wrote and printed
with death; the city having for some weeks past
been subjected to the rigor of martial law. I oca translation of St. Luke's Gospel into the casionally heard the words, "La Granja! La Gipsy dialect of Spain--a copy of which we Granja! which words were sure to be succeeded have now before us-we believe the first by the shout of Vive la constitucion ! Opposite book that ever was printed in any Gipsy dia- the Casa de Postas were drawn up in a line lect whatever.* But Mr. Borrow had arrived about a dozen mounted dragoons, some of whom in Madrid at a very interesting period, and were continually waving their caps in the air and
joining in the common cry, in which they were we cannot but extract at some length from
encouraged by their commander, a handsome the chapter in which he paints from the life
young officer, who flourished his sword, and the revolution of La Granja and the fate of more than once cried out, with great glee, 'Long Quesada.
live the constitutional queen! Long live the con“ The Granja, or Grange, is a royal country
w stitution !
. The crowd was rapidly increasing, and seyseat, situated amongst pine-forests, on the other side of the Guadarama hills, about twelve leagues
eral nationals made their appearance in their distant from Madrid. To this place the queen
uniforms, but without their arms, of which they regent Christina had retired, in order to be aloof
had been deprived, as I have already stated.
What has become of the Moderado government ?' from the discontent of the capital, and to enjoy
said I to Baltasar, whom I suddenly obeerved rural air and amusements in this celebrated re
amongst the crowd, dressed, as when I had first treat, a monument of the taste and magnificence of the first Bourbon who ascended the throne of
seen him, in his old regimental great-coat and
foraging-cap; ' have the ministers been deposed, Spain. She was not, however, permitted to remain long in tranquillity; her own guards were
| and others put in their place ?
. disaffected, and more inclined to the principles of
“Not yet, Don Jorge,' said the little soldier
tailor; 'not yet; the scoundrels still hold out, the constitution of 1823, than to those of absolute
relying on the brute bull Quesada and a few inmonarchy, which the Moderados were attempt
fantry, who still continue true to them; but there ing to revive again in the government of Spain.
is no fear, Don Jorge; the queen is ours, thanks Early one morning, a party of these soldiers, headed by a certain Sergeant Garcia, entered her
to the courage of my friend Garcia; and if the
brute bull should make his appearance-ho! ho! apartment, and proposed that she should sub
Don Jorge, you shall see something !-I am prescribe her hand to this constitution, and swear
pared for him, ho! ho!' And thereupon he half solemnly to abide by it. Christina, however, who was a woman of considerable spirit, refused to
opened his great-coat, and showed me a small
gun, which he bore beneath it in a sling, and then, comply with this proposal, and ordered them to withdraw. A scene of violence and tumult ensued,
moving away with a wink and a nod, disappeared
amongst the crowd. but, the regent still continuing firm, the soldiers at length led her down to one of the courts of the lo
“Presently I perceived a small body of soldiers
advancing up the Calle Mayor, or principal street, palace, where stood her well-known paramour Munos, bound and blindfolded. "Swear to the
ur which runs from the Puerta del Sol, in the direc
tion of the palace: they might be about twenty constitution, you she-rogue ! vociferated the swarthy sergeant. Never!' said the spirited |
in number, and an officer marched at their head
with a drawn sword; the men appeared to have daughter of the Neapolitan Bourbons. Then
"been collected in a hurry, many of them being in * Embéo e Majaro Lucas : Brotoboro Randado fatigue-dress, with foraging-caps on their heads. andré la Chipe Griega, acana Chibado andre o Ro-On they came, slowly marching; neither their mano, o Chipe es Zincales de Sesé. 1837. 12mo. I officer nor themselves paying the slightest attention to the cries of 'Long live the constitution !'words, Quesada! Quesada! The foot soldiers save and except by a surly side-glance; on they stood calm and motionless ; but the cavalry, with marched, with contracted brows and set teeth, the young officer who commanded them, distill they came in front of the cavalry, where they played both confusion and fear, exchanging with halted, and drew up in a rank.
each other some hurried words. All of a sud6. Those men mean mischief,' said I to my den that part of the crowd which stood near the friend D of the Morning Chronicle; but mouth of the Calle de Carretas fell back in great what can those cavalry fellows behind them disorder, leaving a considerable space unoccumean, who are evidently of the other opinion by pied, and the next moment Quesada, in comtheir shouting: why don't they charge at once plete general's uniform, and mounted on a bright this handful of foot people, and overturn them? | bay thorough-bred English horse with a drawn Once down, the crowd would wrest from them sword in his hand, dashed at full gallop into the their muskets in a moment. You are a Liberal: area, in much the same manner as I have seen why do you not go to that silly young man who a Manchegan bull rush into the amphitheatre commands the horse, and give him a word of when the gates of his pen are suddenly flung counsel in time ?
open. "De- turned upon me his broad, red, good. “He was closely followed by two mounted of humored English countenance, with a peculiarly ficers, and at a short distance by as many draarch look, as much as to say ..... (whatever goons. In almost less time than is sufficient to you think most applicable, gentle reader): then relate it, several individuals in the crowd were taking me by the arm, “Let us get,' said he, 'out knocked down, and lay sprawling beneath the of this crowd, and mount to some window, where horses of Quesada and his two friends, for, as to I can write down what is about to take place, for the dragoons, they halted as soon as they had I agree with you that mischief is meant.' Just entered the Puerta del Sol. It was a fine sight opposite the post-office was a large house, in the to see three men, by dint of valor and good topmost story of which we beheld a paper dis- horsemanship, strike terror into at least as many played, importing that apartments were to let; thousands. I saw Quesada spur his horse rewhereupon we instantly ascended the common peatedly into the dense masses of the crowd, and stair, and having agreed with the mistress of the then extricate himself in the most masterly manétage for the use of the front room for the day, ner. The rabble were completely awed and we bolted the door, and the reporter, producing gave way, retiring by the Calle del Comercio his pocket-book and pencil, prepared to take notes and the street of Aleala. All at once Quesada of the coming events, which were already cast- singled out two nationals who were attempting ing their shadow before.
to escape, and, setting spurs to his horse, turned “What most extraordinary men are these re- them in a moment, and drove them in another porters of the English newspapers ! Surely, if direction, etriking them in a contemptuous manthere be any class of individuals who are enti- ner with the flat of his sabre. He was crying iled to the appellation of cosmopolites, it is these, out “Long live the absolute Queen !" when, who pursue their avocation in all countries indif- \ just beneath me, amidst a portion of the crowd serenily, and accommodate themselves at will to which had still maintained its ground, perhaps the manners of all classes of society: their flu- from not having the means of eecaping, I saw a ency of style as writers is only surpassed by their small gun glitter for a moment, then there was facility of language in conversation, and their a sharp report, and a bullet had nearly sent attainments in classical and polite literature only Quesada to his long account, passing so near to by their profound knowledge of the world, ac- the countenance of the general as to graze his quired by an early introduction into its bustling hat. I had an indistinct view for a moment of scenes. The activity, energy, and courage which a well-known foraging cap* just about the spot they occasionally display in the pursuit of infor- from whence the gun had been discharged, then mation are truly remarkable. I saw them during there was a rush of the crowd, and the shooter, the three days at Paris, mingled with canaille whoever he was, escaped discovery amidst the and gamins behind the barriers, whilst the mi-confusion which arose. traille was flying in all directions, and the despe- “As for Quesada, he seemed to treat the danrate cuirassiers were dashing their fierce horses ger from which he had escaped with the utagainst those seemingly feeble bulwarks. There most contempt. He glared about him fiercely stood they, dotting down their observations in for a moment, then leaving the two nationals, their pocket-books, as unconcernedly as if report- who sneaked away like whipped hounds, he ing the proceedings of a reform meeting in Fins. went up to the young officer who commanded bury-square; whilst in Spain, several o: them the cavalry, and who had been active in raising accompanied the Carlist and Christino guerillas the cry of the Constitution, and to him he adin some of their most desperate raids, exposing dressed a few words with an air of stern menace; themselves to the danger of hostile bullets, the the youth evidently quailed before him, and, inclemency of winter, and the fierce heat of the probably in obedience to his orders, resigned the summer sun.
| command of the party, and rode slowly away * We had scarcely been five minutes at the with a discomfited air; whereupon Quesada diswindow, when we heard the clattering of hors- mounted and walked slowly backwards and fores' feet hastening down the Calle de Carretas. wards before the Casa de Postas with a mien As the sounds became louder and louder, the which seemed to bid defiance to mankind. cries of the crowd below diminished, and a spe- “This was the glorious day of Quesada's excies of panic seemed to have fallen upon all; once or twice, however, I could distinguish the * Mr. Borrow means the little tailor's cap.
istence, his glorious and last day. I call it the Calle d'Alcala capable of holding several hunday of his glory, for he certainly never before dred individuals. On the evening of the day in appeared under such brilliant circumstances, question, I was sitting there, sipping a cup of the and he never lived to see another sun set. No brown beverage, when I heard a prodigious action of any conqueror or hero on record is to noise and clamor in the street: it proceeded be compared with this closing scene of the life from the nationals, who were returning from of Quesada ; for who, by his single desperate their expedition. In a few minutes I saw a courage and impetuosity, ever before stopped a body of them enter the coffee house, marching revolution in full course ? Quesada did : he arm in arm, two by two, stamping on the stopped the revolution at Madrid for one entire ground with their feet in a kind of measure, and day, and brought back the uproarious and hostile repeating in loud chorus as they walked round mob of a huge city to perfect order and quiet. the spacious apartment, the following grisly His burst into the Puerta del Sol was the most stanza: tremendous and successful piece of daring ever witnessed. I admired so much the spirit of the Que es lo que abaja por aquel cerro ? Ta ra ra. " brute bull," that I frequently, during his wild Son los huesos de Quesada, que los trae un perroonset, shouted " Viva Quesada !" for I wished Ta ra ra him well. Not that I am of any political party (What comes a-clattering down the street ? or system. No, no! I have lived too long with 'Tis the bones of Quesada.-Dog's meat! dog's Rommany Chals and Petulengres* to be of any
meat!) politics save gipsy politics ; and it is well known that, during elections, the children of Roma side "A huge bowl of coffee was then called for, with both parties so long as the event is doubt- which was 'placed upon a table, around which ful, promising success to each; and then, when gathered the national soldiers. There was eithe fight is done, and the battle won, invaria- lence for a moment, which was interrupted by a bly range themselves in the ranks of the victori-voice roaring out El panuelo! A blue kerous. But I repeat that I wished well to Quesa- chief was forthwith produced: it was untied, da, witnessing, as I did, his stont heart and and a gory hand and three or four dissevered good horsemanship. Tranquillity was restored fingers made their appearance: and with these to Madrid throughout the remainder of the day; the contents of the bowl were stirred up. "Cups! the handful of infantry bivouacked in the Puerta cups ! cried the nationals. Ho, ho, Don del Sol. No more cries of Long live the Con. Jorge !" cried Baltasarito, 'pray do me the fastitution' were heard ; and the revolution in vor to drink upon this glorious occasion.'"the capital seemed to have been effectually put p. 301. down. It is probable, indeed, that, had the chiess of the moderados party but continued true! So much for Madrid and its Patriots in to themselves for forty-eight hours longer, their February, 1836. We perceive that we cause would have triumphed, and the revolu- have filled our alloted space, and must tionary soldiers at the Granja would have been therefore conclude abruptly with a page glad to restore the Queen Regent to liberty, and from Mr. Borrow's account of his first visit to have come to terms, as it was well known that several regiments who still continued loval to Seville. It appears that the world conwere marching upon Madrid. The moderados, tains one character more who has wandered however, were not true to themselves : that as oddly as himself. very night their hearts failed them, and they fled in various directions-Isturitz and Galiano! "I had returned from a walk in the country, to France, and the Duke of Rivas to Gibraltar: on a glorious sunshiny morning of the Andaluthe panic of his colleagues even infected Que- sian winter, and was directing my steps towards sada, who, disguised as a civilian, took to flight.my lodging; as I was passing by the portal of a He was not, however, so successful as the rest, large gloomy house near the gate of Xeres, two but was recognized at a village about three individuals dressed in zamarras emerged from leagues from Madrid, and caet into the prison by the archway, and were about to cross my path, some friends of the constitution. Intelligence of when one, looking in my face, suddenly started his capture was instantly transmitted to the back, exclaiming, in the purest and most melocapital, and a vast mob of the nationals, some dious French-What do I see ? If my eyes on foot, some on horseback, and others in cab-I do not deceive me—it is himself. Yes, the very riolets, instantly set out. « The nationals are same as I saw him first at Bayonne; then long coming,” said a paisano to Quesada. “ Then,” subsequently beneath the brick wall at Novogosaid he, “I am lost.;" and forthwith prepared rod; then beside the Bosphorus; and last at-at himself for death."
-oh, my respectable and cherished friend, where
was it that I had last the felicity of seeing your The catastrophe is indicated with the
well-remembered and most remarkable physiskill of a real ballad-poet :
ognomy ?! “ There is a celebrated coffee-house in the
"Myself.-It was in the south of Ireland, if I
mistake not. Was it not there that I introduced This Gipsy word, it seems, is half-Sanscrit, and Y
you to the sorcerer who tamed the savage signifies 'Lords of the Horseshoe.' Mr. Borrow
/horses by a single whisper into their ear? But adds, “ It is one of the private cognominations of tell me what brings you to Spain and Andalusia, 'The Smiths,' an English Gipsy clan." Their the last place where I should have expected to school of politics is an extensive one.
| find you?
" Baron Taylor. — And wherefore, my most! THE EAST AND SOUTH OF EUROPE. respectable B * * * * ? Is not Spain the land of the arts, and is not Andalusia of all Spain From Blackwood's Magazine for January 1843. that portion which has produced the noblest monuments of artistic excellence and inspiration ? | A Steam-voyage to Constantinople, by the Come with me, and I will show you a Murillo, Rhine and Danube, in 1840-41, and to such as . . . But first allow me to intro Portugal, Spain, &c. By the Marquis of duce you to your compatriot. My dear Mon
Londonderry. In 2 vols. 8vo. sieur W., turning to his companion (an English gentleman, from whom I subsequently experienced unbounded kindness at Seville), allow
We have a very considerable respect for me to introduce you to my most cherished and the writer of the Tour of which we are respectable friend, one who is better acquainted about to give extracts in the following pages. with gipsy ways than the Chef des Bohemiens The Marquis of Londonderry is certainly no à Triana, one who is an expert whisperer and common person. We are perfectly aware horse-sorcerer, and who, to his honor I say it, lihat he has been uncommonly abused by
that he has been uncommonly abused by the can wield hammer and longs, and handle a horseshoe, with the best of the smiths amongst the
Whigs—which we regard as almost a ne. Alpujarras.
cessary tribute to his name: that he has * In the course of my travels I have formed received an ultra share of libel from the various friendships, but no one has more inter- Radicals—which we regard as equally to ested me than Baron Taylor. To accomplish- bis honor; and that he is looked on by all ments of the highest order he unites a kindness the neutrals, of whatever color, as a perof heart rarely to be met with. His manners
sonage too straightforward to be managed are naturally to the highest degree courtly, yet he nevertheless possesses a disposition so pliable
by a bow and a smile. Yet, for all these
a that he finds no difficulty in accommodating
things, we like him the better, and wish, as himself to all kinds of company. There is a says the old songmystery about him, which, wherever he goes,
"We had within the realm, serves not a little to increase the sensation natu
Five hundred good as he." rally created by his appearance and manner. Who he is no one pretends to assert with down- He is a straightforward, manly, and highright positiveness: it is whispered, however, spirited noble, making up his mind without that he is a scion of royalty; and who can gaze
fee or reward, and speaking it with as little for a moment upon that most graceful figure,
fear as he made it up; managing a large that most intelligent but singularly-moulded countenance, and those large and expressive
and turbulent population with that authorieyes, without feeling as equally convinced that ty which derives its force from good in. he is of no common lineage as that he is no com tention; constant in his attendance on his mon man? He has been employed by the illus. parliamentary duty ; plain-spoken there, as trious house to which he is said to be related, he is everywhere ; and possessing the in
Auence which sincerity gives in every part sion, both in the East and the West. He was
of the world, however abundant in polish now collecting master-pieces of the Spanish school of painting, which were destined to adorn
and place-hunting. the saloons of the Tuileries. Whenever he His early career, too, has been manly. descries me, whether in the street or the desert, He was a soldier and a gallant one. His the brilliant hall or amongst the Bedouin hai- mission to the allied armies, in the greatest mas, at Novorogod or Stamboul, he flings up his campaign ever made in Europe, showed
that he had the talents of council as well as felicity of seeing my cherished and most respectable B * * * * *'"-p. 318.
of the field ; and his appointment as ambassador to Vienna, gave a character of spirit,
and even of splendor, to British diplomacy We hope that we ourselves shall soon
on which it had seldom exhibited before, and see again in print our cherished and most
I which it is to be hoped it may recover with ectable. Borrow; and meantime con las little delay as possible. gratulate bim sincerely on a work which
| We even like his employment of his sumust vastly increase and extend his repu
I perfiuous time. Instead of giving way to tation-which bespeaks everywhere a noble
the fooleries of fashionable life, the absurdi. and generous heart—a large and vigorous lties of galloping after bares and foxes, for nature, capable of sympathizing with every- Im
n every months together, at Melton, or the patronthing but what is bad-religious feelings
age of those scenes of perpetual knavery deep and intense, but neither gloomy nor which
er groomy nor which belong to the race-course, the Marnarrow-a true eye for the picturesque, lavis has spent his vacations in making tours and a fund of racy humor.
to the most remarkable parts of Europe. It is true that Englishmen are great travellers, and that our nobility are in the habit of
wandering over the Continent. But the decided otherwise. Speed and safety are world knows no more of their discoveries, if now judged to be valuable compensations they make such, or of their views of society for state and seclusion; and when we see and opinions of Governments, if they ever majesty itself, after making the experiments take the trouble to form any upon the sub- of yachts and frigates, quietly and comfort. ject, than of their notion of the fixed stars. ably return to its palace on board a steamer, That there are many accomplished among we may be the less surprised at finding the them, many learned, and many even desir. Marquis of Londonderry and his family ous to acquaint themselves with what Burke making their way across the Channel in the called “The mighty modifications of the steamer Giraffe. Yet it is to be remarked, that human race," beginning with a land within though nothing can be more miscellaneous fifteen miles of our shores, and spreading than the passengers, consisting of Englishto the extremities of the earth, we have nomen, Frenchmen, Germans, Yankees; of doubt. But in the countless majority of Jews, Turks, and heretics; of tourists, phy. instances, the nation reaps no more benefit sicians, smugglers, and all the other diver. from their travels than if they had been sities of idling, business, and knavery ; yet limited from Bond street to Berkeley families who choose to pay for them, may square. This cannot be said of the Marquis have separate cabins, and enjoy as mucb priof Londonderry. He travels with his eyes vacy as possible with specimens of all the open, looking for objects of interest and reworld within half an inch of their abode. cording them. We are not now about to The voyage was without incident; and give him any idle panegyric on the occa- after a thirty hours' passage, the Giraffe sion. We regret that his tours are so rapid, brought them to the Brill and Rotterdam. and his journals so brief. He passes by It has been an old observation that the many objects we should wish to see illus- Dutch clean every thing but themselves; trated, and turns off from many topics on and nothing can be more matter of fact, which we should desire to hear the opinions than that the dirtiest thing in a house in of a witness on the spot. But we thank him Holland is generally the woman under for what he has given ; hope that he will whose direction all this scrubbing has been spend his next autumn and many others as accomplished. The first aspect of Rotterhe has spent the former ; and wish him only dam is strongly in favor of the people. It to write more at large, to give us more cha-exhibits very considerable neatness for a racters of the rank with which he naturally seaport—the Wapping of the kingdom; associates, draw more contrasts between paint and even gilding is common on the the growing civilization of the European outsides of the shops. The shipping, which kingdoms and our own; and adhering to his here form a part of the town furniture, and own straightforward conceptions, and tell. are to be seen everywhere in the midst of ing them in his own sincere style, give us the streets, are painted with every color of an annual volume as long as he lives. the rainbow, and carved and ornamented
Steamboats and railways have produced according to such ideas of taste in sculpone curious effect, which no one antici. ture as are prevalent among Dutchmen; pated. Of all the levellers they are the and the whole exhibits a good specimen of greatest. Their superiority over all other people who have as much to struggle with modes of travelling, crowds them with the mud as if they had been born so many eels, peer as well as the peasant. Cabinets, and and whose conceptions of the real color of even queens, now abandon their easy, but the sky are even a shade darker than our Jazy, equipages for the bird-like flight of own. iron and fire, and though the “special The steamboats also form a striking fea. train" still sounds exclusive, the principle ture, which utterly eluded the wisdom of our of commixture is already there, and all ancestors. The are here, bearing all ranks will sweep on together.
colors, from all the Rhenish towns, smoking The Marquis, wisely adopting the bur. and suffocating the Dutch, flying past their geois mode of travelling, set forth from the hard-working, slow-moving craft; and bring. Tower Stairs, on a lovely morning at the ing down, and carrying away, cargoes of close of August 1840. Fifty years ago, the every species of mankind. The increase of idea of a general, an ambassador, and a peer, Holland in wealth and activity since the with his marchioness and suite, embarking separation from Belgium, the Marquis reon board the common conveyance of the gards as remarkable; and evidently having common race of mankind, would have been no penchant for our cousin Leopold, he deregarded as an absolute impossibility ; but clares that Rotterdam is at this moment the common sense of the world has now l worth more solid money than Antwerp,