dulterated with credulity, cannot be better shown than in educating our children in such a manner as ultimately to establish them in virtue and piety. Our Creator hath made us reasonable beings, capable of attaining to a vast variety of matter; yet the soul may be said to come into the world unfurnished with knowledge. The powers of our nature would be in struments of madness, and run into a thousand pernicious errors, if we had not the happiness of being properly instructed. Hence the importance of training up children in the path of virtue and knowledge; in a steady adherence to the truths of the gospel, made so clear, the most simple can understand. Abiding by these will lead to happiness in this life, to a peace of conscience which will counteract the enmity of the world, and secure us a blest immortality.

History.

History acquaints us with the transactions and characters of mankind, from the remotest periods of antiquity to the present time; and gives us a knowledge of the most distant nations, as well as our own. It gives us a view of the powers of man, by showing in what manner he has improved, from the most barbarous and savage state of society, to that in which we now behold the most polished nations of the world. What different pictures do the same creatures exhibit, employed in hunt ing, fishing, and making war on each other with the most unrelenting cruelty, and, as we now behold them, improving life with useful arts, and embellishing it with ornaments and elegances, suited to a state of refinement. Nor does history do only this; it displays, in its ac count of all nations, how essential morality and virtue are to the happiness of a state, and how constantly vice and irreligion terminates in national ruin. This is not only a useful lesson to communities, but to

individuals; for every man is a little kingdom, where, if the inferior's powers and faculties are in due subjection to the superior, he resembles a well governed state every part of the fabric is in peace and tranquillity, consequently happy; if, on the contrary, his inferior powers rebel against the superior, there exists the same internal commotion in the individual, as in a nation when in a state of civil confusion.

The same history which shows that the happiness of a nation de pends on its virtue, informs us the happiness of individuals depends on the same principle; and that ruin will as certainly be the consequence of vice in an individual, as in the community at large.

Fenelon, Archbishop of Chambray.

The person of Fenelon is thus described by one who was intimately acquainted with him:

"He was above the middle size, elegantly formed, slender and pale. His nose was large and well shaped. His eyes darted fire and vivacity. His countenance was such, whoever had seen it once could never forget it. It contained every thing, and united contrarieties, without their appearing to be at variance. It contained gravity and sweetness, seriousness and cheerfulness. It exhibited equally the man of learning, the ecclesiastic, and nobleman; but what universally pervaded it, as well as the whole of his person, were finesse, understanding, decorum, the graces, and particularly dignity; insomuch that it required an effort to remove the eye from him. There appeared something more than mortal blended o'er the whole. All the portraits of him appeared to speak; yet no painter could ever reach the proportions, the harmony, and delicacy of character, that were united in his countenance. He possessed a natural, soft, and flowery eloquence, a politeness insinuating but noble, an elocution easy, neat, and agreeable, with a clearness and precision

o as to be understood at once, even when treating on the most abstracted and difficult matter.

"With all this superiority, he never permitted himself to appear to possess more understanding than those with whom he conversed. He put himself on a level with every one, without their perceiving he did so. To such a degree did he fascinate all to whom he spoke, that they could not quit him for a moment, without desiring to return to him. This rare talent, which he possessed in so eminent a degree, attached his friends to him all his life, in defiance of his exile and disgrace, and the unhappy distance they were from him. It united them in the melancholy pleasure of talking of him, of regretting him, of sighing after his return, and expecting it with the ardour of desire."

In the year 1709, a young sovereign prince passed a few days with Fenelon. Among other subjects, they conversed on toleration. Never, sir, said the archbishop, oblige your subjects to change their religion; no human power can force the impenetrable intrenchment of the freedom of thinking. Violence

will never convince the heart; it can only make men hypocrites. Grant to all men a civil toleration of religion; not as if you approved of every difference as a matter of indifference; but as if you permitted every thing with patience which God permitted. "All forms of government," said the good archbishop one day to the chevalier Ramsey, 66 are necessarily imperfect; for the supreme power in this world must ever be entrusted to man, yet all forms are good, when those who govern attend only to the great law of the public welfare."

To Mr., who affirmed Pope to have been correct in asserting, that woman is at heart a rake.

If woman is at heart a rake, A pedant you complete ;

Defend, good sir, the ground you take,

While I the charge repeat.

You think, in citing thus from Pope,
To show your taste and sense :
To copy him you need not hope,
Save but in imprdence.

Self Knowledge.

characters

There are three which every man sustains; and these often extremely differ from one another. One which he possesses is his own opinion. Another that which he carries in the estimation of the world; and a third which he bears in the judgment of his maker: it is only the last which ascertains what he really is. Whether the character which the world forms of him be above or below the truth, it imports not much to know. But it is of eternal consequence, that the character which a man possesses in his own eyes, be formedupon that which he bears in the sight of God.

Euqanimity.

I am no more raised or dejected, said Politiano, by the flattery of my friends, or the accusations of my enemies, than I am by the shadow of my own body; for although that shadow may be somewhat longer in the morning and evening than in the middle of the day, it does not induce me to think myself a taller man at those times than at noon. A good and wise man explores the recesses of his own heart daily, and enquires, when kept from vice, whether his innocence proceeded from purity of principle, or from worldly motives; whether he has been as solicitous to regulate his heart, as to preserve his manners from reproach. A heart bearing such a scrutiny, shrinks not at the malignity of the world.

For the Literary Magazine.

ANECDOTES OF DRESS.

THE first clothes we read of were immediately after the fall, when "Adam and Eve sewed figleaves together, and made themselves aprons." A poor sort of covering! but when God turned them out of Paradise, he provided warmer clothes for them: "Unto Adam and also unto his wife did the Lord God make coats of skin, and clothed them." After this, garments of knit work, then woven clothes came into use. At Cæsar's arrival, the Britons in the south part of the isle were attired with skins; but as civility grew under the Romans, they assumed the Roman habit. The English or Saxons, at their first arrival there, wore long jackets, were shorn all over the head, excepting about the crown, and under that an iron ring. Afterwards they wore loose and large white garments, with broad borders of divers colours, as the Lombards. Somewhat before the conquest they were all gallant, with coats to the mid-knee, head shorn, beard shaved, face painted, and arms laden with bracelets. But totus homo in vultu est, as the whole man is seen by his face, it will not be amiss to observe, that Edward the confessor wore very short cropt hair, whiskers and beard exceeding long William the conqueror wore short hair, large whiskers, and a short round beard. Robert, his eldest son, it is well known, used short hose, from thence called courthose, courtoise, curtis; on his monument, yet extant at Gloucester, he is pourtrayed with short stockings of mail, reaching scarce up to the place where some garter below knee; no breeches, but a coat, or rather shirt of mail, instead of them. However, breeches and stockings are new terms, and, in the sense we now understand them, different things, being at first one and the same, all made of one piece of cloth, and then called hose.

William Rufus wore the hair of

his head a degree longer than his father; but no beard or whiskers. In 1104 (4, Henry I) Serlo bishop of Seez, preaching at Carenton, before the king, against long hair, caused him and all his courtiers to get their hair cropt as soon as they left the church; and accordingly Henry I, in his broad seal (as appears in Sandford), has no hair, beard, or whiskers. Stephen observed the same fashions. Henry II brought in the short mantle, and therefore had the name of Court-mantle. In his time the use of silk was first brought out of Greece into Sicily, and other parts of christendom. Richard I, in his first and second broad seals, has longish hair, no beard or whiskers. John, in his broad seal, has short hair, large whiskers, and short curled hair. The ladies, in the three last mentioned reigns, wore long cloaks from their shoulders to their heels, buttoned round the neck, and then thrown over the shoulders, hanging down behind.

Henry III wore whiskers, and a short round beard. The same king returning out of France, in 1243, commanded it to be proclaimed all over the kingdom, ut qualibet civitate vel burgo quatuor cives vel burgenses honorabiliores et obviam procederent in vestibus pretiosis et desiderabilibus; his design in which was to obtain presents from them. Edward I wore short hair, and no whiskers or beard. Edward II continued this fashion. Edward III, in his first and second broad seals, has long hair, but no beard or whis kers; in his third broad seal, shorter hair, large whiskers, and a twopointed beard, and on his monument in Westminster abbey a very long beard. The same king, in our common prints of him, is generally pictured with a sort of hat on; but as hats are a deal more modern, wherever I see him drawn with a hat on, I conclude that picture to be a counterfeit. And, indeed it may be questioned, whether there are any pictures of any of our kings painted before his time now extant,

Philippa, consort to this king, according to her monument at Westminster, wore a pretty sort of network cawl over her hair, with a long end of the same hanging down each ear.

In this reign I conceive it was that history says, "the commons were besotted in excess of apparel, going some in wide surcoats reaching to their loins; some in a garment reaching to their heels, close before, and strutting out on both sides, so that on the back they make men seem women, and this they call by a ridiculous name, gown. Their hoods are little, tied under the chin, and buttoned like the women's, but set with gold, silver, and precious stones. Their lerripipes reach to their heels, all jagged. They have another weed of silk, which they call paltocks, without any breeches.Their girdles are of gold and silver; their shoes and pattens snouted, and piked above a finger long, crooking upwards, and fastened to the knees with chains of gold or silver.”.

"In 1369, they began to use caps of divers colours, especially red, with costly linings; and in 1372, they first began to wanton it in a new round curtail weed called a cloak, in latin armclausa (q. ar. mi-clausa), as only covering the shoulders."

But this cloak, as I take it, was no more than a monk's hood, or cowl. Richard II, in his picture in Westminster Abbey, is drawn with short curling hair, and a small curling two-pointed beard. Queen Anne, Richard IId's consort (who first taught the English women to ride on side-saddles, who heretofore rid astride), brought in high head attire, piked with horns, and longtrained gowns. Their high heads had sometimes one point, sometimes two, shaped like sugar-loaves; to which they had a sort of streamers fastened, which wantoned and hung down behind, and, turning up again, were tied to their girdles. Henry IV wore long hair, whiskers, and a double-pointed beard; in his time the long pocketed sleeve was much in vogue, Henry V wore much the

same in this reign the shoes were remarkably broad, which Camden speaking of, says, "Not many years after, it was proclaimed, that no man should have his shoes broader at the toes than six inches. And women trimmed themselves with foxes' tails under their garments, as they do now with French farthingals; and men with absurd short garments. Henry VI, Edward IV, Richard III, and Henry VII, wore their hair moderately long, no whiskers or beard. Henry VIII had short cropt hair, large whiskers, and a short curled beard, his gown furred, the upper parts of his sleeves bowed out with whalebone, and open from his shoulders to his wrists, and there buttoned with diamonds; about his neck and wrists short ruffles. Queen Mary wore a close head dress, with a broad flat long end or train hanging down behind; strait sleeves down to her wrist; there and on her neck a narrow ruffle. On the 27th of May, 1555 (2, Queen Mary), sir William Cecil, being then at Calais, bought, as appears by his MS. Diary, three hats for his children. These are the first hats I have yet read of; and it should seem, at their first coming in, they were more worn by children that men, who yet kept to caps.

In

Queen Elizabeth wore no head dress, but her own or false hair in great plenty, extravagantly frizzled and curled; a bob or jewel dropt on her forehead; a huge laced doublet ruff, long piked stays, a hoop petticoat extended like a go-cart, her petticoat prodigously full; her sleeves barrelled and hooped from the shoulders to the elbows, and again from the elbows to the wrists. one picture of her she is drawn as above, with five bobs, one on her forehead, one above each ear, and one at each ear. This queen is said to have been the first person in England who wore stockings: before her time both men and women wore hose, that is breeches, or drawers, and stockings all of one piece of cloth. Sir Philip Sidney, one of her favourites, wore a huge high collar, stiffened with whale

bone; a very broad stiff laced ruff; his doublet (body and sleeves) bombasted or barrelled, and pinked and slashed all over, small oblong but tons, and a loose long cloak. The custom of men sitting uncovered in the church is certainly very decent, but not very ancient. Dr. Cox, bishop of Ely, died 1581, whose funeral procession I have seen an admirable old drawing of; as likewise of the assembly sitting in the choir to hear the funeral sermon, all covered, and having their bonnets on. John Fox, the martyrologist, who died in 1587, when an old man (as appears by his picture), wore a strait cap covering his head and ears, and over that a deepish-crowned shallow-brimmed slouched hat. This is the first hat I have yet observed in any picture. Hats being thus come in, men began then to sit uncovered in the church, as I take it; for as hats look not so well on men's heads in places of public worship as hoods or bonnets (the former wear), this might probably be the first occasion of their doing so.

James I wore short hair, large whiskers, and a short beard; also a ruff and ruff ruffles. In 1612 (10, Jac. I), Mr. Hawley, of Gray's Inn, coming to court one day, Maxwell, a Scotsman, led him out of the room by a black string which he wore in his ear, a fashion then much in use; but this had like to have caused warm blood, had not the king made up the quarrel. Prince Henry, eldest son to James the first, wore short hair filletted and combed upward, short barrelled breeches, and silk thistles or carnations at the tie of his shoes. The young lord Harrington, this prince's contemporary, is painted in the same manner, with the addition of ear-drops, a double ruff, and barrelled doublet.

The great tub farthingal was much worn in this reign; the famous countess of Essex is pictured in a monstrous hoop of this sort. In conformity to the ladies of that age, the gentlemen fell into the ridiculous fashion of trunk hose, an affectation of the same kind, and carried

to so great a height by stuffing them out, that they might more properly have been called the farthingal breeches.

Charles I wore long hair, particularly one lock longer than the rest, hanging on the left side, large whiskers, a piked beard, a ruff, shoe roses, and a falling band. His queen wore a ruff standing on each side and behind, but her bosom open. Sir Francis Bacon, who died in 1626, in his fine monument at St. Alban's, is represented with monstrous shoe roses, and great bombast paned hose, reaching to the knees. About 1641, the forked shoes came into fashion, almost as long again as the feet, not less an impediment to the action of the foot than to reverential devotion, for our boots and shoes were so long snouted, we could hardly kneel. But as a short foot was soon thought to be more fashionable, full as much art became necessary to give it as short an appearance as possible. About 1650, both men and women had the whim of bringing down the hair of their heads to cover their forehead, so as to meet their eyebrows. In 1652, John Owen, dean of Christ church and vice chancellor of Oxford, went in querpo, like a young scholar, with powdered hair, his band strings with very large tassels, a large set of ribands at his knees, with tags at the ends of them; Spanish leather boots with large lawn tops, and his hat mostly cocked. After the close-stool-pan sort of hat, which had now been many years in wear, came in the sugar-loaf or high crowned hat; these, though mightily affected by both sexes, were so very incommodious, as that, every puff of wind blowing them off, they required the almost constant employment of one hand to secure them. Charles II, in 1660, appears to have worn a large thick cravat with tassels, a short doublet, large ruffles, short boots with great tops, a very short cloak, and long hair (one lock on the right side longer than ordinary), all pulled forward, and divided like a long wig on each side of his face: soon after he wore a periwig.