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The object of this cavalcade was to congratulate the archbishop of Rouen (who was then upon a vifit' to the prefect, until his own palace was ready to receive him) on his elevation to the fee..

This fpectacle difplayed the interference of God, in thus making the former enemies of his worship pay homage to his minifters, after a long reign of atheifm and perfecution.

About twelve o'clock, which is the hour of parade throughout the republic, we went to the Champ de Mars, and faw a review of the 20th regiment of chaffeurs, under the command of generals St. Hiliare and Ruffin, who, as well as the regiment, had particular-. ly distinguished themselves at Marengo.

The men were richly appointed, and in, general well mounted. They all wore muftachios. They were just arrived from Amiens, where, as a mark of honor, they had been quartered during the negocia

tion.

The officers were fuperbly attired. St. Hiliare is a young man, and in perfon much resembles his patron and friend, the first conful; and they fay, in abilities alfo.

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Some of the horfes were of a diffimilar fize and color, which had a bad effect; but I was informed, upon making the remark, that they had lost many in battle, and had not had time properly to replace them. They were all strong and fiery, and went through their evolutions with surprising swiftnefs.

At dinner our party was very agreeable. Next to me fat a little abbè, who appeared to be in years, but full of vivacity, and feemed to be much efteemed by every person prefent. During the time of terror (as the French emphatically call the gloomy reign of Robespierre) the blood of this good man, who, from his wealth, piety, and munificence, poffeffed confid erable influence in Rouen, was fought after with keen purfuit.. Madame G was the faviour of his life, by concealing him, previous to her own imprisonment, for two years, in different cellars, under her house, which the rendered as warm and as comfortable as circumstances, and the nature of the concealment would allow. In one of thefe cells of humane fecre cy, this worthy man has often eaten his folitary and agitated meal, whilst the foldiers of the tyrant, who were quartered upon his protectress, were caroufing in the kitchen immediately above him.

Soon after our coffee, which, in this country, immediately fucceeds the dinner, we went to view the bridge of boats, fo celebrated in history. This curi» qus ftructure was contrived by an Auguftine friar na med Michael Bougeois, it is compofed of timber, regularly paved, in fquares which contain the stones, and is 1000* feet in length; it commences from the middle of the quay of Rouen, and reaches over to the

* The French feet are to the English as 1068 to:

1000.

Fauxbourg of St. Sever, and carries on the communication with the country which lies fouth of the city. It was begun in the year 1626, below it are the ruins of the fine bridge of 13 arches, built by the empress of Maud, daughter of Henry I. of England. This ingenious fabric refts upon 19 immenfe barges, which rife and fall with the flowing and fubfiding of the tide. When veffels have occafion to pafs it a portion of the platform fufficient to admit their paffage is raised and rolled over the other part. In the winter when any danger is apprehended from the large flakes of ice, which float down the river, the whole is taken to pieces in an hour. The expenfe of keeping it in repair is eftimated at 10,000 livres, or 400 pounds fterling per annum, and is defrayed by government, it being the high-road to Picardy. Upon the whole, although this bridge is fo much admired, I must confefs it appeared to me a heavy performance unfuitable to the wealth and fplendor of the city of Rouen, and below the tafte and ingenuity of modern times. A handfome light stone structure, with a centre arch covered with a draw bridge, for the paffage of veffels of confiderable burden, or a lofty flying iron bridge, would be less expensive, more safe, and much more ornamental.

The view from this bridge up the Seine, upon the islands below mount St. Catharine, is quite enchanting. Upon the quay, although it was Sunday, a vaft number of people were dancing, drinking and

attending fhows and lotteries. Here were people of various nations, parading up and down in the habits and dreffes of their refpective countries, which produced quite the effect of a masquerade. The river Seine is fo deep at this place, that ships of three hundred tons burden are moored clofe to the quay and make a very fine appearance. The exchange for the merchants is parallel with the centre of the quay, and is a long paved building of about 400 feet in length, open at top, having a handfome iron baluftrade, and feats towards the Seine, and a bigh stone wall towards the town. Over all the great gates of the city, is written, in large characters, "Liberty, Equality, Humanity, Fraternity or Death :" the last two words have been painted over, but are ftill faintly legible..

In the evening we went to the French opera, which was very crowded. The boxes were adorned with genteel people, and many beautiful young women.. The theatre is very large, elegant and handsome, and the players were good. I was ftruck with the ridiculous antics, and geftures of the chief in the orcheftra, a man whofe office it is to beat time to the muficians. In the municipality box which was in the centre, lined with green filk, and gold, were two fine young women who appeared to be ladies of fashion, and confequence; they were dreffed after the antique, in an attire which, for lightnefs, and fcantities I never faw equalled, till I faw it furpaffed.

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at Paris. They appeared to be clothed only in jewels, and a little muflin very gracefully difpofed, the latter, to borrow a beautiful expreffion, had the appearance of "wovenair." From emotions of gratitude for the captivating diplay which they made, I could not help offering a few fervent wishes, that the light of the next day might find them preserved from the dreaded confequences of a very bitter cold night.

Rouen, upon the whole, is a fine city, very large, and populous. It was formerly the capital of the kingdom of Normandy. It ftands upon a plain, fcreened on three fides, by high, and picturesque mountains. It is near two leagues in compafs, exclufive of the Fauxbourges of St. Severs, Cauchoife, Bouveul, St. Hiliare, Martainville and Beauvifme. Its commerce was very celebrated, and is returning with great rapidity. Most of the fine buildings in this city and its environs are Anglo-Norman antiquities, and were founded by the English before they left Normandy.

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The cathedral is a grand, and awful pile of gothic architecture, built by our William the Conqueror. It has two towers, one of which, is furmounted by a wooden fpire covered with lead, and is of the prodig ious height of 395 French feet, the other is 236 feet high.

The additional wooden fpire, and the inequality of the towers produce rather an unfavourable effect.

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