Page images

.CHAP. TV.'] IN FRANCE. . *9

of the revolution is rapidly paffing away. It is only here and there, that its slimy track remains. The time is not very distant when Frenchmen wished to be known by the name of Jacobins; it is now be• come an appellation of reproach, even amongst the surviving aborigines of the revolution. As an instance of it, a naval officer of rank and intelligence, who joined us at Ivetot, informed us, that he had occasion, upon some matters of business, to meet Santerre a few days before ; that inhuman and vulgar revolutionist, who commanded the national guards when they surrounded the scaffold during the execution of their monarch. In the course of their conversation, Santerre, speaking of a third person, exclaimed, " I cannot bear that man; he is a Jacobin." Let all tcue revolutionary republicans cry out, Bravo! at this.

This miscreant'lives unnoticed, in a little village near Paris, upon a slender income, which he has made in trade, not in the trade of blood; for it appears that Robespierre was not a very liberal patron of his •servants. He kept his blood hounds lean and keJn, and .poorly fed them with the rankest offal.

A'ter a dusty journey through a very rich and picturesque country, of near eighty miles, we entered the beautiful boulevards* of Rouen, about seven -o'clock in the evening, which embowered .us from

* Environs of a town, planted with stately tress * E

the sun. Their shade was delicious. I think them siner than those of Paris. The noble elans, which compose them in four stately rows, are all nearly of the fame height. Judge of my surprise—Upon our rapidly turning the corner of a street, as we entered the city, I suddenly found coach, horses and all, in the aifle of an ancient catholic church. The gat es were closed upon us, and in a moment from the busy buzzing of the streets, we were translated into the silence of shattered tombs, and the gloom of cloisters: the only light which Ihone upon us, issued through fragments of stained glass, and the apertures which, were formerly silled with it.

My surprise, however, was scon quieted, by being informed, that this church, having devolved to the nation as its property, by force of a revolutionary decree, had been afterwards fold for stables, to one of the^ owners of the Rouen diligences.

An old unsaleable cabriolet occupied the place of the altar: and the horses were very quietly eating their oats in the sacristy!!

At the Bureau, we paid twelve livres and a half for •ur places and luggage from Havre to this town.



A female French fib.Military and Ci vil Procession.**''MadameG.TheReview.Moris. CAULBridge of B;ais.The Quay.Exchange.TheatreRsu-' en.Cathedral.St. Ouens.Prince of Waldec.—'

Maid of Orleans.

»- . J

HAVING collected together all our luggage, and seen it safely lodged in a porter's wheelbarrow, Captain C. and I bade adieu to our fellow travellers, ana to these solemn and unsuitable habitations of hostlers and horses, and proceeded through several narrow streets, lined with lofty houses, the shops of which were all open, and the shopkeepers, chiefly women, looked respectable and sprightly, with gay bouquets in their bosoms, to the Hotel de l'Europe; it is a sine inn, to which we had been recommended nt Havre,

kept by Madame F , who> with much politeness,

and many captivating movements, dressed a-la-Gree, with immense golden ear-rings, approached us, and gave us a little piece of information, not very pleasant to travellers somewhat discoloured by the dust of along and sultry day's journey, who wanted comfortable rooms, freih linen, a little coffee, and a good night's repose : her information was, that her • house was completely full, but that she would feud to an upholsterer to sit up two beds for us, in a very neat room , which she had juft papered and furnislied, op

pofke to the porter's lodge (all the great inns and respectable town-houses in France have great gates, and' a porter's lodge at the entrance.) As we wished to; have three rooms, we told her, we were friends of Messrs. G——, (the principal merchants of Rouen.) She said, they, were very amiable men,. and were pleased to send all their friends to her house, (a little

French sib of Madame F 's, by the by, as will

appear hereafter ;) and she was truly sorry that she could not accommodate us better. We looked in* to the room, which also looked into the street, was exposed to all its noise, and very small. So we made.

our to madame F and proceeded with

our wheelbarrow to the Hotel -de Poitiers—a rival house. It is situated in the beautiful boulevards, which I have mentioned, and is part of a row of sine stone-built houses. Upon our ringing the bell, Madame P—— presented herself. We told her, we were just arrived at Rouen, that we had the honor

of being known to to Messrs. G , and should be

happy»to be placed under her roof, and wished to have two lodgings rooms and a siting room to ourselves. Madame P , who possessed that fort cf

good and generous heart, which nature, for. its bet* ter preservation, had lodged. i;i.a comfortable envelope of comely plumpness, observed, that Messrs.

G were gentlemen of great respectability, were

her patrons, and always fcntthiir friends to her house (a point upon which these rival dames, were at issue i

[merged small][merged small][ocr errors]

but the truth was with Madame P— ;) that she would do all in her power to make us happy; but at present, on account of her house being very crowded, she could only offer us two bed-rooms. We were too tired to think, of any further peregrinations, of discovery; so we entered our bedrooms, which, like most of the chambers in France, had brick floors without any carpetting; they were, however clean -y and, after ordering a gocd sire in one of them (for the sudden and unusual frost, which in the beginning of summer, committed so much ravage throughout Europe, commenced the day we had sirst the honor

of seeing Madame P ;) and, after enjoying

those comforts which weary wanderers require, we mounted our lofty beds, and went to rest.

The next day we presented our letter, and ourselves, to Madame G , the amiable mother of

the gentleman I have mentioned. She received us with great politeness, and immediately arranged adinner party for us, for that day. It being ratherearly in the morning, we were admitted into her chamber, a common custom of receiving early visits in France.

About eleven o'clock we saw a splendid proceffion of all the military and civil authorities to the hotel* of the prefect, which was opposite to our inn.

* Hotel, in France, means either an inn, or private house of consequence.

E 2:

« PreviousContinue »