of the revolution is rapidly paffing away. It is only here and there, that its flimy track remains. The time is not very diftant when Frenchmen wifhed to be known by the name of Jacobins ; it is now become an appellation of reproach, even amongst the furviving aborigines of the revolution. As an instance of it, a naval officer of rank and intelligence, who joined us at Ivetot, informed us, that he had occafion, upon some matters of business, to meet Santerre a few days before; that inhuman and vulgar revolutionist, who commanded the national guards when they furrounded the fcaffold during the execu tion of their monarch. In the courfe of their converfation, Santerre, fpeaking of a third perfon, exclaimed, "I cannot bear that man; he is a Jacobin." Let all true revolutionary republicans cry out, Bravo! at this.

This mifcreant lives unnoticed, in a little village near Paris, upon a flender income, which he has made in trade, not in the trade of blood; for it appears that Robespierre was not a very liberal patron of his fervants. He kept his blood hounds lean and ken, and poorly fed them with the rankest offal.

After a dufty journey through a very rich and picturefque country, of near eighty miles, we entered. the beautiful boulevards* of Rouen, about feven o'clock in the evening, which embowered us from

* Environs of a town, planted with fately trees. E

the fun. Their fhade was delicious. I think them finer than thofe of Paris. The noble elms, which compofe them in four ftately rows, are all nearly of the fame height. Judge of my surprise-Upon our rapidly turning the corner of a street, as we entered the city, I fuddenly found coach, horfes and all, in the aisle of an ancient catholic church. The gates

were clofed upon us, and in a moment from the bufy buzzing of the streets, we were tranflated into the filence of shattered tombs, and the gloom of cloisters: the only light which fhone upon us, iffued through fragments of ftained glafs, and the apertures which were formerly filled with it.

My furprise, however, was foon quieted, by being informed, that this church, having devolved to the nation as its property, by force of a revolutionary decree, had been afterwards fold for stables, to one of the owners of the Rouen diligences.

An old unfaleable cabriolet occupied the place of the altar and the horfes were very quietly eating their oats in the facrifty !!

At the Bureau, we paid twelve livres and a half for our places and luggage from Havre to this town.

CHAPTER V.

A female French fib.-Military and Civil Proceffion. Madame G.-The Review.-Mons. 'Abbé.-Bridge of Beats.-The Quay.-Exchange.--Theatre-Rou-* en.-Cathedral.-St. Ouens.-Prince of Waldec. Maid of Orleans.

HAVING collected together all our luggage, and feen it fafely lodged in a porter's wheelbarrow, Captain C. and I bade adieu to our fellow travellers, and to these folemn and unfuitable habitations of hoftlers and horfes, and proceeded through feveral narrow ftreets, lined with lofty houfes, the shops of which were all open, and the fhopkeepers, chiefly women, looked refpectable and sprightly, with gay bouquets in their bofoms, to the Hôtel de l'Europe; it is a fine inn, to which we had been recommended at Havre, kept by Madame F, who, with much politenefs, and many captivating movements, dreffed à-la-Gree, with immenfe golden ear-rings, approached us, and gave us a little piece of information, not very pleafant to travellers fomewhat difcoloured by the duft of a long and fultry day's journey, who wanted comforteble rooms, fresh linen, a little coffee, and a good night's repose: her information was, that her house was completely full, but that he would fend to an upholsterer to fit up two beds for us, in a very neat room, which she had just papered and furnished, op

pofite to the porter's lodge (all the great inns and refpectable town-houfes in France have great gates, and a porter's lodge at the entrance.) As we wished to have three rooms, we told her, we were friends of Meffrs. G, (the principal merchants of Rouen.) She faid, they were very amiable men, and were pleafed to fend all their friends to her houfe, (a little French fib of Madame F's, by the by, as will appear hereafter ;) and fhe was truly forry that fhe could not accommodate us better. We looked in to the room, which alfo looked into the ftreet, was expofed to all its noife, and very fmall. So we made our bows to madame F, and proceeded with our wheelbarrow to the Hôtel de Poitiers--a rival houfe. It is fituated in the beautiful boulevards, which I have mentioned, and is part of a row of fine ftone-built houfes. Upon our ringing the bell, Madame P prefented herfelf. We told her, we were just arrived at Rouen, that we had the honor of being known to to Meffrs. G-, and should be happy to be placed under her roof, and wifhed to have two lodgings rooms and a fitting room to our felves. Madame P, who poffeffed that fort of good and generous heart, which nature, for its bet ter prefervation, had lodged in a comfortable envel ope of comely plumpnefs, obferved, that Meffrs. Gwere gentlemen of great refpectability, were her patrons, and always fent their friends to her houfe (a point upon which thefe rival dames were at iffue,

but the truth was with Madame P-;) that fhe would do all in her power to make us happy; but at prefent, on account of her house being very crowded, she could only offer us two bed-rooms. We were too tired to think of any further peregrinations: of discovery; fo we entered our bedrooms, which, like most of the chambers in France, had brick floors. without any carpetting; they were, however clean; and, after ordering a good fire in one of them (for the fudden and unusual froft, which in the beginning of fummer, committed fo much ravage throughout. Europe, commenced the day we had firft the honor of feeing Madame P ;) and, after enjoying thofe comforts which weary wanderers require, we mounted our lofty beds, and went to rest.

The next day we prefented our letter, and ourfelves, to Madame G, the amiable mother of the gentleman I have mentioned. She received us with great politenefs, and immediately arranged a dinner party for us, for that day. It being rather early in the morning, we were admitted into her chamber, a common custom of receiving early vifits in France.

About eleven o'clock we faw a fplendid proceffion of all the military and civil authorities to the hôtel* of the prefect, which was oppofite to our inn.

*Hotel, in France, means either an inn, or private houfe of confequence.