on horfeback, his long and heavy coach whip; with this commanding inftrument, he can re-animate by a touch, each halting muscle of his lagging animals, can cut off an annoying fly, and with the loud cracking of its thong, he announces, upon his entrance into a town, the approach of his heavy, and clattering cavalcade. Each of thefe diligences is provided with a conductuer, who rides upon the imperial, and is refponfible throughout the journey, for the comfort of the paffengers and safety of the luggage. For his trouble the paffenger pays him only thirty ols for himself, and fifteen more for the different poftillions, to be divided amongst them, for these the donor is thanked with a low bow, and many bien obligés," in the name of himself and his contented comrades.

Our companions proved to be fome of our old friends the emigrants, who had thrown afide their marine difhabille, and difplayed the appearance of gentlemen. We were much pleased with again meeting each other. Their converfation upon the road was very interesting, it was filled with fincere regret for the afflictions of their country, and with: expreffions of love and gratitude towards the English. They told us many little tales of politenefs, and humanity which they had received from my countrymen in the various towns, where their destiny had placed them. One difplayed, with amiable pride, a fnuff box, which he had received as as parting token

of esteem, another a pocket book, and each was the bearer of fome little affectionate proof of merit, good conduct, or friendship.

whofe face was full of expreffion, tinctured with much grief, and attendant indifpofition, with a manner, and in a tone, which were truly affecting, concluded a little narrative of fome kindnefs which he had received, by faying, "if the English and my "country are not friends, it fhall not be for want of "my prayers. I fled from France without tears, for "the prefervation of my life, but when I left Eng

land, I confess, I could not help fhedding fome." They did not difgrace the generous abbè fuch á nation was worthy of fuch feelings.

Our horfes were of the Norman breed, small, ftout, fhort, and full of fpirit, and to the honor of those who have the care of them, in excellent condition. I was furprised to see these little animals running away with our cumbrous mache, at the rate of fix or seven miles an hour.usje yngs

We traced the defolating hand of the revolution as foon as we afcended the firft hill.

Our road lay through a charming country. Upon the fides of its acclivities, furrounded by the most romantic scenery of woods and corn-fields, we faw, ruined convents, and roofles village churches, through the shattered cafements of which the wind xhad free admiffion,

We breakfafted at a neat town called Bolbec, feven leagues from Havre, where we had excellent coffee, butter, and rolls. All the household of our inn looked clean, happy, and sprightly.

This is the principle town of the province of Caux, the women of which drefs their heads in a very peculiar, and in my humble opinion, unbecoming manner. I made a hafty sketch of one of them who entered the yard of the inn with apples for fale.

Such a promontory of cap and lace I never before beheld. She had been at a village marriage that morning, and was bedecked in all her finery. The people of this province are induftrious and rich, and confequently refpectable. At the theatre at Rouen I afterwards faw, in one of the front boxes, a lady from this country, dreffed after its fafhion: the effect was fo fingular that it immediately induced ine to diftinguish her, from the reft of the audience, but her appearance feemed to excite no curiofity with any other perfon. Our breakfast cost us each fifteen fous, to which may be added two fols more, for the maids, who waited on us with cheerful fiiles, and habited in the full cufhvois cuftume, and which alfo entitled us to kiffes and curtfies. I beg leave to oppofe our breakfast charge to the rumors which prevailed in England, that this part of France was then in a state of famine. From this town, the road was beautifulfully lined with beech, chefnut, and apple trees. The rich yellow of the rape feed which overfpread the

furface of many of the fields on each fide, was very animating to the eye. From this vegetable the country people exprefs oil, and of the pulp of it make cakes, which the Norman horfes will fatten upon. We had an early dinner at Ivetot, five leagues diftant from Bolbec. In ancient periods this miferable town was once the capital of a feparate kingdom. In our dining room were three beds, or rather we dined in the bed room. I ufe the former expreffion out of compliment to the pride of our little hoft, who replied with fome loftinefs to one of our companions, who, upon entering the room, and feeing fo many accommodations for repose, exclaimed, with the fharpnefs of appetite, "my good hoft, "we want to eat, and not to fleep ;" "gentlemen, "faid our mortified little matire d'hotel, this cham"ber is the dining room, and it is thought a very

It

good one." From its appearance I fhould have believed him, had he fworn that it was the ftate *room of the palace of this ancient principality, of which this wretched town was once the capital. reminded me of an anecdote related by an ancient English lady of fashion, when the firft paid her refpects to James I. foon after his acceffion to the crown of England. She mentions in her memoir, that his royal drawing room was fo very dirty, that after the levee fhe was obliged to recur to her comb for relief, In plain truth, James I. and his court were loufy. 9 baghovo donde ho

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Our mafter of the houfe was both cook and waiter. At dinner, amongst several other dishes, we had fome ftewed beef. I requested to be favored with a little mustard, our hoft very folemnly replied, "I am very forry, citizen, but I have none, if you had been for"tunate enough to have been here about three weeks "fince, you might have had fome." It was more than I wished, so I ate my beef very contentedly without it. With our defert we had a fpecies of cake called brioche, compofed of egg, flour, and water; it is in high estimation in France.

It was in this town only that I faw a fpecimen of that forlorn wretchednefs and importunity, which have been faid to constitute the general nuifance' of this country.

In the fhop of a brazier here, was expofed, a new leaden crucifix, about two feet and a half high for fale; it had been caft preparatory to the reinaugur ation of the archbishop of Rouen, which was to take place upon the next Sunday week, in the great cathedral of that city.

In confequence of the restoration of religion, the beggars who have in general confiderable cleverness, and know how to turn new circumstances to advantage, had just learnt a fresh mode of foliciting money, by repeating the Lord's Prayer in French and Latin. We were treated with this fort of importunate piety for near a mile, after we left Ivetot.

I have before mentioned, that the barbarous jargon