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Chip. XXI.] a**:-WUSKJfci- *3»

thirty men kissing each other. The women in France never think thew prerogatives bfringed by this antianglo mode of salutation. Some shed tears at {art* ing; but the cheek down which they trickled nev«E lost its^<5k*'«r 4iT4dtyi' * Att were animated i everj* eye looked bright -y there was a gaiety in their ve»f grief.—" Bon voyage, bon voyage —Dieu vous befiiffe, Dieu vous benisse," reiterated on all sides from sprightly faces stretched out of the window frames of the mafly machine, as it rattled through the gates of the yard, to- the incessant crackings of the postilion's long lash. I soon afterwards found myself seated in the diligence for Cherbourg, in company with two* ladies, and three gentlemen, who were all polite and pleasing. In the cabriole, forward, was a French captain in the army, who had been in Tippoo's service1 at the time of the surrender of Seringapatatm He looked abominably dirty in his travelling habiliments but that, in France, is now no just indication of inferiority or vulgarity.

'We passed by the Place de la Concorde, upon thestatues and buildings of which, and the gardens of the Thuilleries, the fresh and early fun shone mosij beautifully. My merry, but seeling fellow travellers, waving their hands, addressed a short apostrophe to these suburbs, and exclaimed, «* adieu ma tres jolie"villa—ah! tres jolieville adieu.* 'For near three miles aster leaving the barrier, we

s, which supply the

nurkets of Paris, with that beautisulflower, which, transferred thence, adorn the toilets; the vases, aritt thebosoms of the fair Frisians, and form the favorite bouquets of the petite maitres; oh each-side of the road were cherry trees, in foil bearing, which preTenteda very charming appearance. "We Ibonreachj ed the water works of Marli, which supply the. jets.

d'eau of Versailles. They are upon a vast scale, arul | appear to be very curious. A little further on we' passed Mai Maifon, the country and chief residence of the sirst consul and his {'amily. It is an ancien house, emboibmed in beautiful woods and gardens. At the entrance are large military lodges, for the accommodation of a squadron of the consular cavalry^ 'who mount guard when their general is here..

At St. G?rmain?s we breakfasted, upon pork cut;-*, lets, excellent bread, wine, and cherries, for twenty sols, or ten pence English. At Mante we had an excellent dinner, of several dishes, for thirty sols, or , one shilling and three pence English. Soon after we had passed Mante, we left the higher Norman road, and entered a country extremely picturesque and rich. We were conducted through the forest of Evreux, by an'eiTcort of chasseurs. This vast tract of land is insested'by an immense bamiitti, who live in large ex-cavations in the earth, similar to the subterranean apartments of the celebrated robbers, in whose service Gil Bias was rather reluctantly enrolled, and generally, assail the traveller, with a force which would render.>n resistance

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le course of the year, furnishes considerable employ for the guillotine of Caen, when the tribunal of justice is seated. The appearance of our guards terrisic enough to appal such valiant souls, as once animated the frames of Prince Hal, and his merry Jriend Ned Pains. They wore Roman helmett, from which descended, to die bottom of their hacks, an immense tail, of thick black horse hair, their uniform was light green, and looked rather shabby.

We passed the forest without any molestation, and supped at the town pf Evreux, which is very pleasant, where we halted for about four hours. As we were afterwards proceeding, I prepared myfelf to enjoy a. little sleep, and as I reclined for this purpose with my hat over my face, in a corner of the carriage, I overheard one os my fellow travellers observe to the other, «the Englishman is sleeping," to which be replied, "po, he is not sleeping, he is only thinking, it is the ** character of his nation."

The French cannot bear the least appearance of thought; they have a faying, "un homme qui rit ne lera jamais dangereux."*

The next morning we breakfasted at Lisieux, an ancient town, in which are the remains of a sine convent which formerly belonged to the Order of the Capuchins. For four or sive miles before we approached the town, the laughing and animated faces of groups of peasantry, all ia their jubilee dresses, the old mount262 THE STRANGER [CHAP

; . ,m . ;•iii! iJi ti-' ,'ndoS^ -b'j.n ?,i • ed upon asses and the young walking by the sides of

them, hastening to the town, announced to us, that a fair, and merry making was to be held there, on that day. Lisieux was quite in a bustle. About fix o'clock in the evening of the fame day, we arrived at Caen, the capital of Lower Normandy. My fare to this city from Paris, amounted to thirty livres, including my luggage. I had not completed my dinner at the Hotel de la Place, before an English servant entered my room, to inform me, that his mistress,

Mrs. P -, who, with her daughters, and another

young lady, had the rooms over mme, presented her compliments to me, and requested me to take my coffee with them that evening. I must confess I was at sirst a little surprised at the message, for the English are not very remarkable for politeness and attenion to one another in a foreign country.

After I had sinished my desert, I made my bow to Mrs. P—.—, and her family, who proved to be very pleasant, and accomplished people, and were making the tour of France with English servants. They had been in Caen near three weeks, where they had a large acquaintance of the sirst respectability. This unexpected introduction became additionally agreeable, upon my discovering at the Messagerie,that the diligence for Cherbourg would not proceed, till three days from the time of my arrival. The next morning I rambled with my new friends about the city, which 'is Iarge,v and handseme, and is watered By the river Orne^ It

CHAP. XXI.] IN ERANCE. /263

'. i ? ,Pti{»f 'SAW* mr' S ri'*

is much celebrated for its lace trade; on that day I

, dined with Mrs. P , and a French party, and was

regaled with an English dinner, cooked, and served up by her own servants. The silth of the French kitchen is too well known to make it necessary for me to say how delicious such a dinner was. The French themselves admit that their cooks are destitute of clean

The Convent of the Benedictines, which is converted into the palace.of the prefect, is a noble building. The gardens belonging to it are well arranged. The promenade called de la Cour is very charming, from which the city is seen to great advantage. Thei water of the Orne is rather nauseous, but is not conrh Cdered unwholesome. The Palais de Justice is a sine modern structure. In its courts of law, I had again an oppoiitunity of hearing the forensic elocution of Normandy. The gestures, and vehemence of the orators here, as at Rouen, appeared to me to be tinctured with the extravagance of frenzy. But perhaps 'my ears, and eyes have been rendered somewhat tooi fastidious by having been frequently banquetted withi the grace, animation, and commanding eloquence of the unr.valled advocate of the British bar ; who, when he retires from the laborious duties of the crowded, and admiring forurn, where his acute sagacity has so,', often unfolded the dark compact involutions of human obliquity, where his wit and fancy have covered with d»e choicest flowers, the dreary barrenness of tech

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