During the early part of the night, we made but little way-behind, the dark fhadowy line of land fad ed in mist; before us, the moon spread a fream of filver light upon the fea. The foft ftillness of this repose of nature was broken only by the rippling of the light wave against the head and fides of the veffel, and by the whistling of the helmfman, who, with the helm between his knees, and his arms croffed, alternately watching the compass and the fail, thus invoked the prefence of the favoring breeze.

Leaving him, and fome few of our unfortunate comrades, to whom the motion of the fea was more novel than gratifying, we defcended into the Ateerage, (for our births in the cabin were completely occupi ed by females. As we were going down the ladder, the appearance of fo many recumbent perfons, faintly diftinguishable by the light of a folitary taper, reminded us of a floating catacomb; here, crawling under a cot which contained two very corpulent priests, upon a fpare cable, wrapt up in our own great coats, we refigned ourfelves to rest.

The next day, without having made much pro grefs in our little voyage, we arofe, and affembled round the companion, which formed our breakfast table; at dinner, we were enabled to spread a handsome table of refreshments, to which we invited all our fellow paffengers who were capable of partaking of them, many of whom were preparing to take their fcanty meal, removed from us at the head of the yef

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fel. For this little act of common civility, we were afterwards abundantly repaid, by the thankfulness of all, and the ferviceable attentions of fome of our charming guefts, when we landed; an inftance of which I fhall afterwards have occafion to mention. The wind flackened during the day, but in the evening it blew rather fresh, and about nine o'clock the next morning, after a night paffed fomething in the fame way as the former, we were awakened by being informed that we were within a league of Havre; news by no means difagreeable, after the dead dulnefs of a fea calm...

The appearance of the coaft was high, rugged, and rocky; to use a good marine expreffion, it looked ironbound all along fhore. To the east, upon an elevated point of land, are two noble light houfes, of very beautiful conftruction, which I fhall have occafion to defcribe hereafter...

At fome little diftance, we faw confiderable flights of wild ducks. The town and bafon lie round the high western point from the lights, below which there is a fine pebbled beach. The quays are to the right and left within the pier, upon the latter of which there is a fmall round tower. It was not the inten tion of our packet captain to go within the pier, for the purpofe of faving the port-anchorage dues, which amount to eight pounds fterling, but a government boat came off, and ordered the veffel to hawl cloíe up ta the quay, an order which was given in rather a pe

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remptory manner. Upon our turning the pier, we faw as we warped up to the quay, an immenfe motley crowd, flocking down to view us. A panic ran throughout our poor fellow paffengers. From the noife and confufion on fhore, they expected that fome recent revolution had occurred, and that they were upon the point of experiencing all the calamities, which they had before fled from; they looked pale and agitated upon each other, like a timid and terrified flock of fheep, when fuddenly approached by their natural enemy the wolf. It turned out, however, that mere curiosity, excited by the display of English colors, had affembled this formidable rabble, and that the order which we received from the government boat, was given for the purpose of compelling the captain to incur, and confequently to pay, the anchorage dues. In a moment we were befet by a parcel of men and boys, half naked, and in wooden fhoes, who hallooing and "facre dieuing" each other moft unmercifully, began, without further ceremony, to feize upon every trunk within their reach, which they threw into their boats lying along fide.

By a well-timed rap upon the knuckles of one of thefe marine functionaries, we prevented our luggage. from fharing the fame fate. It turned out, that there was a competition for carrying our trunks on fhore, for the fake of an immoderate premium, which they expected to receive, and which occafioned our being affailed in this violent manner. Our fellow paffen

gers were obliged to go on fhore with thefe vociferous watermen, who had the impudence and inhumanity to charge them two livres each, for conveying them to the landing steps, a fhort diftance of about fifty yards. Upon their landing, we were much pleafed to obferve that the people offered them neither violence nor infult. They were received with a fullen filence, and a lane was made for them to pafsinto the town. The poor old clergyman who had furvived the paffage, was left on board, in the care of two benevolent perfons, until he could be safely and comfortably conveyed on fhore. We foon afterwards followed our fellow paffengers in the captain's boat, by which plan we afforded thefe extortioners a piece of falutary information, very neceffary to be made known to them, that although we were English, we were not to be impofed upon. I could not help thinking it rather unworthy of our neighbors to exact from us fuch heavy port dues, when our own demands of a fimilar nature, are fo very trifling. For fuch an impoft, a veffel of the republic, upon its arrival in any of the English ports, would only pay a few fhillings. Perhaps this difference will be equalized in fome shape, by the impending commercial treaty, otherwise, a confiderable partial advantage will accrue to the French from their paffage packets. Upon our landing, and entering the ftreets, I was a little ftruck with the appearance of the women, who * were, habited in a coarfe red camlet jacket, with a

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high apron before, long flying lappets to their caps, and were mounted upon large heavy wooden fhoes, upon each of which a worsted tuft was fixed, in rude imitation of a rofe. The appearance and clatter of thefe fabots, as they are called, leave upon the mind an impreffion of extreme poverty and wretchedness.

They are, however, more favored than the lower -order of females in Scotland. Upon a brifk sprightly chamber-maid entering my room one day at an inn in Glafgow, I heard a found which refembled the pattering of fome web-footed bird, when in the act of climbing up the miry fide of a pond. I looked down upon the feet of this bonny laffie, and found that their only covering was procured from the mud of the high ftreet-adieu to the tender eulogies of the paftoral reed! I have never thought of a fhepherdefs fince with pleafure.

I could not help obferving the cafe, dexterity, and fwiftnefs, with which a fingle man conveyed all our luggage, which was very heavy, to the custom-house, and afterwards to the inn, in a wheelbarrow, which differed from ours, only in being larger, and having two elastic handles of about nine feet long. At the cuftom-houfe, notwithstanding what the English pas pers have faid of the conduct obferved here, we were very civilly treated, our boxes were only just opened, and fome of our packages were not examined at all. Away we had them whirled, to the Hôtel de la Paix, the front of which looks upon the wet dock, and is