touched the age of defperation, after having very attentively beheld it with her glafs for fome time, observed to her party, that there was a great deal of indecorum in the picture. Madam Svery fhrewdly whispered in my ear, that the indecorum was in the remark.

When we were juft leaving the chapel, we overheard a funbrowned foldier, who had loft both his legs, obferve to his companion, to whom he was explaining the colors, pointing to the banners of the Turkish cavalry, the tops of whose staffs were furmounted with horfes' tails, "Look at thofe ribbands; "they are not worthy of being worn when won." This military hospital is capable of accommodating 3,000 foldiers. The bedrooms, kitchens, refectory and out-offices, are very capacious, and, what is rather unusual in France, clean and comfortable. The day before we were there, the Firft Conful paid a visit to its veteran inhabitants. Amongst them, he recognifed an old, and very brave foldier, whofe exploits were the frequent theme of his aged comrades.. The young general told him that he fhould die a Captain, took him in his carriage to dine with him him at Mal Maifon, prefented him with a medallion of honour, and conferred upon him the rank of a captain, in one of the moft diftinguifhed regiments.

From this place we went to the military school adjoining, in which Bonaparte received the rudiments of that education which was deftined to form the foun

dation of his future glory. The building is large and handfome, and is, from a very natural fentiment, in high favour with the Firft Conful. There is nothing in it particular to defcribe. The grounds and gardens are very fpacious and fine. In the front of the military school is the celebrated Champ de Mars, which is an immenfe flat space of ground. On each fide are rifing terraces of earth, and double rows of trees, and at the further end, the river Seine flows. On days of great national celebrations, this vaft plain is furrounded with Gobelins' tapestry, ftatues, and triumphal arches. After contemplating thefe objects of public curiofity, we returned to Mons. S to dinner, where we met a large party of very pleasant people. Amongst them I was pleased with meeting a near relative of an able and upright minifter of the republic, to whofe unwearied labors the world is not a little inindebted for the enjoyments of its prefent repofe.

After dinner we drove to the beautiful garden of Mouffeaux, formerly the property of the duc d'Orleans. It is laid out with great tafte, and delights the eye with the moft romantic fpecimens of improved rural beauty. It was originally defigned by its deteftible owner for other purpofes than thofe of affording to a vaft and crowded city the innocent delights and recreations of retired and tasteful fcenery. In the gloom of its groves, all forts of horrible profanations were practifed by this monfter and his midnight crew, at the head of whom was Legendre the Butch

R

er. Every rank recefs of prostitute pollution in Paris was ranfacked to furnifh materials for the celebration of their impure and impious orgies. The ode to Atheifm, and the fong of Blafphemy, were fucceeded by the applauding yells of Drunkennefs and Obfcenity.

At the time we vifited this garden it belonged to the nation, and was open, on certain days, to welldreffed people. A few days afterwards, it was prefented, as a mark of national esteem, to Cambaceres, the fecond conful.

Here we rambled till the evening. The fun was fetting. The nightingales were finging in great numbers. Not a cloud was to be seen. A breeze, blowing through a plantation of rofes, refreshed us with its coolness and fragrance. In a fequeftered part of this beautiful ground under the embowering fhades of Acacia trees, upon the ruins of a little temple, we feated ourselves, and were regaled by fome charming Italian duets, which were fung by Madame S

and her lovely daughter, with the most enchanting Pathos. I hope I fhall be pardoned for introducing: fome lines which were written upon our return, by an enthufiaftic admirer of merit and mufic.

TO MADEMOISELLE D. S

In Mouffeaux's fweet arcadian dale,
Fair Delphine pours the plantive strain;

She charms the lift'ning nightingale,
And feems th' enchantress of the plain.

Bleft be thofe lips, to mufic dear!

Sweet fongftrefs! never may they move
Bat with fuch founds to foothe the ear,

And melt the yielding heart to love!

May forrow never bid them pour

From the torn heart one fuffering figh
But be thy life a fragrant flow'r,
Blooming beneath a cloudles fky.

CHAP. XVII.

Curious Method of raifing Hay.-Lucien Bonaparte's Hotel. Opera. Confular Box-Madame Bonaparte's Box.-Feydeau Theatre.-Belle Vue.-Verfailles.-The Palace of the Petit Triannon.The Grounds.

THE people of Paris, who kept horfes in ftables at the back of their houfes, have a fingular mode of keeping their hay in lofts of their dwelling houfes. At the top of a fpacious and elegant hotel, is to be feen a projecting crane in the act of raifing loads of winter provifion for the stable. When I first saw this strange procefs, my surprise would scarcely have been increafed, had I beheld the horse afcending after the hay.

I must not forget to offer fome little defcription of the opera, where, during my stay, through the politenefs of Madame H-,I had free access to a private box.

This fpacious and fplendid theatre is lighted from above by an immenfe circular luftre of patent lamps. The form of this brilliant light is in the antique taste, and it is faid to have coft two thoufand pounds fterling. The effect which it produces in the body of the theatre, and upon the scenery, is admirable. It prevents the fight from being divided, and distracted by girandoles. This eftablishment is upon fo vaft a scale, that government, which is the proprietor, is always a lofer upon balancing the receipts and difburfements of each night. The ftage and its machinery have for many years occupied a great number of the fubordinate claffes of people, who if not employed in this manner, would in all probability become burdenfome, and unpleasant to the government. To this circumftance is attributable the fuperiority of the ma chinery, and over every other theatre which I ever faw. In the English theatre, my eye has often been offended at the reprefentations of the internal parts of houses, in which not a chair, or table is introduced, for the purpose of carrying on the ingenious deception. Upon the ftage of the French opera, every fcene has its appropriate furniture, and distinctive appendages, which are always produced as foon as the scene drops, by numerous attendants. From this attention to the minute circumstances of the drama, the illufion becomes enchanting. The orchestra is very fine, and is compofed of ninety eminent muficians. The corps de ballet confifts of between eighty and ninety fine