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instantly with dexterity, removed the page which.contained the last account of the unhappy noblemen, and also his own destiny, and thus seved his life.
Mons. P is a widower; his daughter, an only
child, is married to a wealthy general, a man of great bravery, and beloved by Bonaparte.
I dined this day at the Restaurateur's in the Thu— illeries, and found, the effect of Madame H——'s. charming civility to me. There were some beautiful, women present, dressed after the antique, a fashiom successfully introduced by David. This extraordinary genius was desirous of dreffing the beaux of Paris after the fame model; but they politely declined it, alledging that if Mons. David would at thefame time create another climate, warmer and moreregular for them, they would then submit the mat— ter to a committee of fashion. The women, though said, in point of corporeal sufferance, to be able toendure less than men, were enchanted with the dei sign of the artist, and without approaching a single degree nearer to the fun, unmindful of colds, consumptions, and death,, have assumed a dress, if suchit can be called, the airiness of which to the eye of fancy, looked like the mist of incense, undulating over a display of beauty and symmetry, only to be rivalled by those exquisite models of Grecian taste which sirst furnistied them with these new idea* c& personal decoration..
CHAP. IN FRANCE. 105
The French ladies every morning anoint their heads with the antique oil, scented; their sidelocks are formed into small circles, which jost touch the bosom i and the hair behind is rolled into a rose, by which they produce a perfect copy of the ancient bust.
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Large Dogs.—A Plan for becoming quickly acquainted -with Paris.—Pantheon.—Tombs of Volta re and Roujpau.—Politeness of an Emigrant.—The Beauty of France.—Beauty evanescent.—Place de Carousel. —Infernal Machine.—Fauche.—Seine.—Wa/herivomen.—Fifhwomen.—Baths.
IN the streets of Paris, I every where saw an unusual number of very large, sierce looking dogs, par. taking of the breed of the Newfoundland, and British bulldog. During the time of terror, these brave and faithful animals were in mucti request, and are said to have given the alarm of clanger, and saved, in several instances, the lives and property of their masters, by their accustomed sidelity. Upon my arrival in this great capital, I was of course desirous of becoming acquainted with its leading features as soon as poffible, for the purpose of being enabled to explore my way to any part of it, without a guide. The scheme which I thought yi, for this purpose, answered my wishes, and therefore I may presume to submit it to others.
On the secqpd day after my arrival, I purchased a map of Paris, hired a siacre, and drove to the Pantheon. Upon the top gallery which surmounts its lofty and magnisicent dome, I made a survey of the city, which lay below me, like the chart with which, which I compared it. The clouds passed swiftly over my head, and from the shape of the dome, impressed me with an idea of moving in the air upon the top, instead of the bottom os a balloon. I easily attained my object by tracing the churches, the temple, the abbey, the palaces, large buildings, and the course and islands of the river, after which I seldom had occasion to retrace my steps, when I was roving' about, unaccompanied. On account of no coal being used in Paris, the prospect was perfectly clear, and tliSfc air is consequently salubrious. The Pantheon, or church of St. Genevieve, is a magnisicent building from the designs of Mons. SoufHet, one of the sirst architects of France i it was intended to be the rival of the St. Paul's of London; but, though a very noble edisice, it must fail of exciting any emotions of jealousy amongst the admirers of that national building. It is a magnisicent pile, and when completed, is destined to be the principal place of worship, and is at present the mausoleum of the de-> ceases great men of France. Upon the entablature ©yer tfie portico is written, in immense characters,.
Chap. X.j *sr Erance. 107
"AUX GltiNDS H6MMES—LA PARTRIE RECONNOISante." Parallel with the grand entrance, are coloflal statues, representing the virtues *imputed to a republic. Soon after the completion of the inner dome, about two years since, one of the main supporting pillars was cruflied in several places by the pressure. The defective column has been removed, and until it can be replaced, its proportions of weight is sustained by a most ingenious and complicated *rooden structure. Upon the spot where the altar is to be erected, I saw another goddess of liberty, with her usual appendages carved in wood, and painted, and raised by the order of Robespierre} for a grand revolutionary fete, which he intended to have given, in this church upon the very day in which he perished. The interior dome is covered with two large ones, each of which is supported by separate pillars, and pilasters, and the whole is constructed of stone only. The interior of the lower dome is covered with the most beautiful carvings in Stone. The peristyle, or circular colonnade round the lower part of J the exterior dome, is very sine, but I must confess, I do not like an ancient fashion which the French have just revived in their construction of these pillars, of making the thickest part of the column a little below the centre, and lessening in size to the base. Under this immense fabric are spacious vaults, well lighted ;j supported by doric pillars, the depositaries of the illustrious dead of France. At present there are only
two personages whose labors are honored with, this gloomy distinction. Rousseau and Voltaire very quietly repose by the side of each other. Their remains are contained in two separate tombs, which are constructed of wood, and are embellished with variious inscriptions. Hamlet's remark over the grave of Ophelia, strongly occurred to me.
« Where be your gibes now ? your gambols'? "your songs ? your stashes of merriment that were "wont to setthe table on a roar? not one now to *« mock your own grinning? quite chap-fallen
At either end of the tomb of Jean Jacques, are two hands, darting out of the gates of death, supporting lighted torches, and below, (it is a little singular) are inscriptions illustrating the peaceful) and benevolent virtues of the enclosed defunct.
Peace to their manes! may they enjoy more repose, than that troubled world which their extraordinary, yet different talents seemed equally destined to embellish and to embroil, though it would be difficult to name any two modern writers, who have expressed, with more eloquence, a cordial love of peace, and a zealous delire to promote the interests of humanity!'!
The church of St. Genevieve is entirely composed of stone and iron, of the latter very little is used. 'It has already cost tine nation very near two millions sterling. As I was returning from the Pantheon, I was addressed by one of our emigrant companions, t6 whom I have before alluded. He had just arrived in