instantly with dexterity, removed the page which contained the last account of the unhappy noblemen, and alfo his own destiny, and thus faved his life. Mons. P is a widower; his daughter, an only child, is married to a wealthy general, a man of great bravery, and beloved by Bonaparte.

I dined this day at the Restaurateur's in the Thuilleries, and found, the effect of Madame H-'s charming civility to me. There were fome beautiful women prefent, dreffed after the antique, a fashion, fuccefsfully introduced by David. This extraordi-.

nary genius was defirous of dreffing the beaux of

a

Paris after the fame model; but they politely declin ed it, alledging that if Mons. David would at thefame time create another climate, warmer and more. regular for them, they would then fubmit the matter to a committee of fashion. The women, though faid, in point of corporeal fufferance, to be able to endure less than men, were enchanted with the de fign of the artist, and without approaching a fingle degree nearer to the fun, unmindful of colds, confumptions, and death, have affumed a dress, if fuch it can be called, the airinefs of which to the eye of fancy, looked like the mift of incenfe, undulating over a display of beauty and symmetry, only to be rivalled by thofe exquifite models of Grecian tafte which first furnished them with thefe new ideas off perfonal decoration...

The French ladies every morning anoint their heads with the antique oil, fcented; their fidelocks are formed into fmall circles, which juft touch the bofom; and the hair behind is rolled into a rofe, by which they produce a perfect copy of the ancient buft.

CHAPTER X.

Large Dogs.-A Plan for becoming quickly acquainted with Paris-Pantheon.-Tombs of Voltaire and Rouleau-Politeness of an Emigrant.-The Beauty of France.-Beauty evanefcent.-Place de Caroufel. -Infernal Machine.-Fauche.-Seine.-Wafber

women.-Fishwomen.--Baths.

IN the ftreets of Paris, I every where faw an unufual number of very large, fierce looking dogs, partaking of the breed of the Newfoundland, and Britifh bulldog. During the time of terror, these brave and faithful animals were in much request, and are faid to have given the alarm of danger, and faved, in feveral inftances, the lives and property of their maf ters, by their accustomed fidelity. Upon my arrival in this great capital, I was of courfe defirous of becoming acquainted with its leading features as foon as poffible, for the purpose of being enabled to ex plore my way to any part of it, without a guide. The scheme which I thought of, for this purpose, an

fwered my wifhes, and therefore I may prefume to fubmit it to others.

On the fecond day after my arrival, I purchased a map of Paris, hired a fiacre, and drove to the Pantheon. Upon the top gallery which furmounts its lofty and magnificent dome, I made a furvey of the city, which lay below me, like the chart with which which I compared it. The clouds paffed swiftly ov er my head, and from the fhape of the dome, impreffed me with an idea of moving in the air upon the top, instead of the bottom of a balloon. I eafily attained my object by tracing the churches, the temple, the abbey, the palaces, large buildings, and the courfe and islands of the river, after which I feldom had occasion to retrace my steps, when I was roving about, unaccompanied. On account of no coal being used in Paris, the profpect was perfectly clear, and the air is consequently falubrious. The Pantheon, or church of St. Genevieve, is a magnificent building from the defigns of Mons. Soufflet, one of the first architects of France; it was intended to be the rival of the St. Paul's of London; but, though a very noble edifice, it must fail of exciting any emotions of jealoufy amongst the admirers of that national building. It is a magnificent pile, and when completed, is deftined to be the principal place of worship, and is at prefent the maufoleum of the deceafed great men of France. Upon the entablature over the portico is written, in immenfe characterss

66 AUX GRANDS HOMMES-LA PARTRIE RECONNOISANTE." Parallel with the grand entrance, are coloffal ftatues, reprefenting the virtues imputed to a republic. Soon after the completion of the inner dome, about two years fince, one of the main fupporting pillars was crufhed in feveral places by the preffure. The defective column has been removed, and until it can be replaced, its proportions of weight is fuftained by a moft ingenious and complicated wooden structure. Upon the fpot where the altar is to be erected, I faw another goddefs of liberty, with her ufual appendages carved in wood, and painted, and raised by the order of Robespierre, for a grand revolutionary fête, which he intended to have given, in this church upon the very day in which he perifhed. The interior dome is covered with two large ones, each of which is fupported by feparate pillars, and pilafters, and the whole is conftructed of ftone only. The interior of the lower dome is covered with the most beautiful carvings in Stone. The peristyle, or circular colonnade round the lower part of } the exterior dome, is very fine, but I must confefs, I do not like an ancient fashion which the French have juft revived in their conftruction of thefe pillars, of making the thickest part of the column a little below the centre, and leffening in fize to the bafe. Under this immenfe fabric are spacious vaults, well lighted ;] fupported by doric pillars, the depofitaries of the illuftrious dead of France. At prefent there are only

two perfonages whofe labors are honored with this gloomy diftinction. Rouffeau and Voltaire very quietly repofe by the fide of each other. Their re mains are contained in two feparate tombs, which are constructed of wood, and are embellifhed with variious infcriptions. Hamlet's remark over the grave of Ophelia, ftrongly occurred to me.

"Where be your gibes now? your gambols? "your fongs? your flashes of merriment that were "wont to fet the table on a roar? not one now to "mock your own grinning? quite chap-fallen ????

At either end of the tomb of Jean Jacques, are two hands, darting out of the gates of death, fupporting lighted torches, and below, (it is a little fingular) are infcriptions illuftrating the peaceful, and benevo lent virtues of the enclofed defunct.

Peace to their manes! may they enjoy more repose, than that troubled world which their extraordinary, yet different talents feemed equally destined to emberlifh and to embroil, though it would be difficult to name any two modern writers, who have expreffed, with more eloquence, a cordial love of peace, and a zealous defire to promote the interefts of humanity F

The church of St. Genevieve is entirely compofed of ftone and iron, of the latter very little is ufed. It has already coft the nation very near two millions fterling. As I was returning from the Pantheon, I was addreffed by one of our emigrant companions, to whom I have before alluded. He had just arrived in