holm displays its batteries. This fortification is the principal protection of Stockholm, and is considered by the Swedes perfectly impregnable. The channel through which all vessels are here compelled to pass is so narrow that they must of necessity come immediately under the guns of the castle. Below the fortress lay two ships of the allied fleet, the neutrality of Sweden not permitting them to pass above this point. The strong voice of a sentinel here gave us the customary challenge, which was promptly responded to by the chief officer of the good steamer Nagler, and, hoisting the Prussian flag, we were permitted to enter the interdicted water above the fortress. Soon after passing this point the scenery becomes more bold and picturesque, the shores enlivened with occasional villas, and upon the islands the oak mingles with the fir and the pine.

But I am describing the details of the scenery as if it were by day-light that we passed through it, when it was in reality one o'clock at night that we were set down upon the noble and substantial pier of Stockholm. Yet the night differed materially from what we call night in more southern latitudes- so calm, so bright, and beautiful is a summer's night in these northern countries, so distinctly discerned is every object. It is not night, it is not day, and again it has not the gloomy dimness of twilight. It reminds one somewhat of the peculiar effect of an eclipse of the sun-every object is distinct about you, while yet a vail seems cast over all, producing a slightly dim and dreamy effect. As we approached Stockholm the obscurity was not so great as to interfere materially with our view; the city, its picturesque outlines and abrupt hill-sides, and even the detail of the buildings, could be distinctly traced. The far-famed Venice of the North lay before us, with her bridges, her islands, and, high above all, the bold outline of her stupendous palace.

The increasing glow of light in the east, which betokened the speedy appearance of the sun, although it was not yet two o'clock, was so enticing that I was induced to join in a walk with a young Swedish officer, a fellow-passenger, who was returning home after an absence of two years in the Mediterranean. Acting as my guide, he first took me upon the bridge

to look at the palace, upon the side of the Lion's Staircase; then to the House of Nobles, and the bronze statue of Gustavus Wasa. We then extended our walk to the height of Mosebacke; here we paused for some time, watching the novel effect of the early sunlight upon the still sleeping city. But there were other points which my companion was desirous to see, and we continued our ramble until we had visited most of the striking points about the city, all of which had evidently dwelt much upon the mind of the young Swede, even amid those scenes of beauty and of classic interest in which he had wandered for the last two years. I could readily imagine what might be the feelings of a native of the country returning home after a long absence, and viewing his native city under such an enchanting effect of light. The enthusiasm of my friend seemed to know no bounds, and the impressions which he seemed to have treasured of more southern climes, of Italian skies, of Naples, and of Constantinople, all were secondary, on that occasion at least, to the charms of a summer's night in his native city.

The sun had been long up, when my friend accompanied me to a hotel to seek for rooms; he was not contented to leave me here, but insisted upon making all necessary arrangements for me, and even stipulating as to prices in all things. I have ever found an uncommon spirit of kindness to strangers in the North-the people seem universally anxious to be of some real service to the traveler.

SITUATION OF STOCKHOLM-A RAMBLE ABOUT THE CITY.

IT is no easy task to convey with pen and ink a correct impression of scenery in general, and to give the reader a very clear impression of Stockholm and its peculiar features. I must confess that the complexity of the task looks rather formidable. I must, therefore, refer my reader to the illustrations which I am able to furnish, and which will, I believe, afford a more clear impression of the subject than many pages which I might write.

All travelers agree in granting Stockholm a high rank among European cities for beauty of situation, for the picturesque grouping of its buildings, for its varied and beautiful water views, as well as for

classic art-the Apollo Belvidere. The face is that of the unfortunate Gustavus III., who was assassinated in the Opera-house yonder; and this statue was erected in his honor upon the spot where the king landed on his return from the conquest of Finland in 1791. The figure holds in its right hand a branch of olive, a symbol of peace; the left hand rests upon the rudder of a ship. This work is by Sergel, a Swedish sculptor of great ability; and although we remarked at the first glance that there was something rather theatrical in its effect, yet, after all, it is in keeping with the character of this sovereign, one of the most handsome and accomplished men of his time. He devoted himself to the introduction of refined and elegant tastes among his people. Artists found in him a munificent patron. The Operahouse, which I just pointed out yonder, was a work of his reign.

Leaving this statue, and passing still along the substantial pier, we turn to the most imposing front of the palace. The magnificent staircase, ornamented with two colossal sleeping lions, from which it derives its name, is the striking feature upon this side of the edifice. Turning to the right, we find ourselves upon a noble stone bridge, which extends in a direct line from the Lion's Staircase. Upon the left are handsome shops, occupied by book and printsellers, &c.; still further on, upon the bridge, is the Café de la Croix, one of the most fashionable lounging-places of the city. A broad flight of granite steps, with handsome parapets of stone, will conduct us down upon a little gem of an island. Here we find a charming summer lounging-place; and as the day is warm, we will stop here for a few minutes, and avail ourselves of these inviting seats to enjoy the refreshing coolness of the shade, the beauty of the flowers, and the enchanting water view. Meantime having ordered an ice, let us listen for a few moments to the soothing hum the waters of the Malar, as they roll past us to lose themselves in the Baltic. There are numerous groups about us, and all seem to be enjoying the quiet repose of this charming little nook-families and friends are grouped together; the ladies have some of them brought their knittingwork, and some of the younger ones their embroidery. Other parties seem to find sufficient occupation in conversation, while,

occasionally, a solitary person is absorbed in his book. You will observe there are many people seated under the dif ferent clumps of trees. The merry shout of childhood strikes the ear, and the joyous faces of the little ones contrast strikingly with the venerable aspect and tottering step of old age; but summer has dawned once more upon a northern people, and all go forth alike to enjoy its charms. The spot is quiet now; but at evening, should we chance to pass this way, we should find almost every yard of ground occupied by the concourse of people which the music of a really fine band has drawn together.

Having rested for a time in this little elysium, let us walk onward; a few steps bring us again to the throng upon the bridge. As we rejoin the crowd, our attention is arrested by a perpetual swinging or waving of hats upon all sides. You listen for the cheers which might be expected to accompany such a demonstration; but no, all is quiet; not a word seems to be spoken, and still the hats wave on, and you soon arrive at the conclusion that, in Stockholm, people not only uncover the head to their acquaintance, but actually swing their hats at them as they pass. Meantime a striking medley of flaxen and raven locks meet your eye-the flaxen predominating, with an occasional sprinkling of silver gray. But here comes a man with long, thin hair, which has been carefully brushed up to cover a bald spot, or perhaps one whose head is as completely destitute of that ornament as was that of poor Uncle Ned's, “on de spot where de wool ought to grow,”—he meets a friend, off goes his hat, and down drops his hair. One thing more is wanting to complete the picture, and that is a cloud of dust, which to-day as usual is blowing upon the bridge, and contributing a plentiful shower of powder to the head of the luckless wight who may be so unfortunate as to meet a friend.

The people upon the bridge, you will observe, are not only well dressed, but there is with many of them a certain style which brings the Boulevards to mind. We are now upon the most fashionable thoroughfare of the city; many pretty faces look out from under bonnets of the very latest Parisian style. You will observe that the Swedish ladies are many of them exceedingly pretty; and the gentlemen

are some of them fine specimens of the other sex, and would, I think, compare favorably with those you would meet in a ramble up Broadway, Miss Bremer to the contrary, notwithstanding. The costume is evidently of the latest Parisian style, even to the closely-fitting boot, so inappropriate here, as we shall soon see after we have passed the bridge, and arrived in the Drottning-gatan, and find ourselves actually committed to the merciless and absolutely villanous pavé of the city.

Having passed the bridge, we find ourselves in a small square. The handsome structure on the right is the Opera-house, the scene of Jenny Lind's early triumphs. It is respectable in appearance, both for size and architecture. The equestrian statue which occupies the center of this square is that of Gustavus Adolphus, a work in no way worthy of Sweden's capital, or the name of the great man in whose honor it was erected.

A short turn to the right from this place, proceeding along the quay, brings us to the Place Charles XIII., the largest square in Stockholm. The colossal statue in bronze, which occupies the center, is that of Charles XIII. Four colossal lions ornament the corners of the substructure. You will observe here a sentinel stationed to guard it, the only one required for a similar duty in the city.

Retracing our steps, and crossing the square which we have before visited, we soon find ourselves in the Drottning-gatan, the Broadway of Stockholm. But before this we shall have found our feet growing tender under the wrenching effects of the cobble-stone pavements-here it is a little better; but the walks are very narrow, and we shall be compelled often to turn out into the street in passing others. Yet here all the gay world of the Swedish capital are supposed to promenade on a fine day. You will observe the street is of great length and narrow, the buildings high, and with few claims to architectural beauty. And as for side-walks, one accustomed to the luxurious pavements of our own cities would hardly be disposed to dignify by that name these wretched apologies. So narrow are they, and illy paved, that the foot-passenger who has not provided himself with iron-shod soles, or at all events those that are very heavy, will find the walk is absolutely one of torture. Yet he will perceive that most of

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the people whom he meets upon the street are only provided with such as a stroll upon the Boulevards or Broadway might require. In fact, what we observed upon the bridge is equally true here—all is Parisian. Drottning-gatan presents few handsome shops when compared with most of the capitals of the continent. The windows are for the most part small, and present little, if anything, that is attractive to the passer-by. There are, whoever, some few creditable exceptions to this rule.

Upon this street are many, and in fact most of the so-called hotels of Stockholm. Here is the Hotel de Suède; further on, the Phoenix. But you must not mistake these names, and imagine that we should find in any one of these Swedish hotels what we usually expect to find in an establishment of this character at home. Here is no St. Nicholas or Metropolitan. The two to which I have just called your attention furnish only dinners. There are other establishments, designated hotels, which furnish only rooms. In fact, it is a matter quite impossible to find a combination of lodging-house and restaurant here, as the custom is to sleep in one hotel, dine at another, and breakfast at a café.

The equipages upon the bridge and along the Drottning-gatan are numerous, and some of them very complete; but far more, I think, strike one as overdone in the gaudiness of their liveries and lavish display of plate, to say nothing of the immense buttons which the servants wear. These, if not actually large enough to be mistaken for tin-pans, at all events strike the eye as far too exaggerated for good taste. But we must remember that very few, comparatively, keep carriages of their own; and as display upon small capital

seems a matter of the utmost consideration here, this may account, in some degree, for the unusual size of the crests which it is deemed necessary for the servants to mount.

As we proceed upon the Drottninggatan, we find some of the most aristocratic residences of the capital. These, you will observe, are built in the French style, a carriage-drive extending unde: the house, and a porter's lodge opening upon this passage. The custom of living upon flats here is as universal as in most cities of the continent.