I myself measured it) is near 600 feet above it. Now I am perfuaded, that in fuch a country as Switzerland, or on fuch a mountain as Ætna, where it is easy at all times to take off a pressure from the human body of many thousand pounds weight, that an ingenious physician might make great difcoveries; nor indeed would thefe difcoveries be confined to the changing of the quantity of air that preffes on the body, but would likewife be extended to the changing of the quality of the air we breathe; which, on the fide of Ætna, or any very high mountain, is more varied than in travelling through fifty degrees of latitude. I beg pardon for this digreffion; the only amends I can make, is to put it out of my power to trouble you with any more, and thus abruptly affure you how much, &c.

LETTER XXIII.

Palermo, June 26th.

OUR fondnefs for Palermo increases

every day, and we are beginning to look forward with regret to the time of our leaving it, which is now faft approaching. We have made acquaintance with many fenfible and agreeable people. The Sicilians appear frank and fincere; and their politeness does not confift in fhew and grimace, like fome of the polite nations of the continent. The viceroy fets the pattern of hofpitality, and he is followed by the reft of the nobles. He is an amiable, agreeable man, and I believe is as much beloved and esteemed as a viceroy to an absolute monarch can be. He was in England in his youth, and is still fond of many of our authors, with whom he seems to be intimately acquainted; he fpeaks the language tolerably well, and encourages the learning of it amongst his people. He may be confidered with regard to Naples as what the lord lieutenant of Ireland is with regard to England, with this trifling difference, that like his mafter, he is invested with an absolute authority; and keeps his parliament (for he has one too) in the most perfect fubjection. The patriots here, although a very numerous body, have never

been able to gain one point, no nor a place, nor even a penfion for a needy friend. Had lord Townshend the power of the marquis Fogliano, I fuppofe your Hibernian fquabbles (of which we hear so much, even at this diftant corner) would foon have an end. Notwithstanding this great authority, he is affable and familiar, and makes his house agreeable to every body. We go very often to his affemblies, and have dined with him feveral times; his table is ferved with elegance and magnificence, much fuperior indeed to that of his Sicilian majefty, who eats off a service of plate, at least 300 years old, very black and rufty indeed I heard a gentleman afk one day, whilst we were ftanding round, the table, if it had not been dug out of Herculaneum. That of the viceroy is very elegant, and indeed the whole of his entertainments correfpond with it; though we have as yet feen nothing here, to be compared to the luxury of our feast in the granary at Agrigentum.

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The Sicilian cookery is a mixture of the French and Spanish; and the Olio ftill preserves its rank and dignity in the center of the table, furrounded by a numerous train of fricaffees, fricandeaus, ragouts, and pet de loups; like a grave Spanish. Don, amidst a number of little smart marquis. The other nobility, whom we have had occafion to fee, are likewife very magnificent in their entertainments; but most particularly in their

deferts and ices, of which there is a greater variety than I have seen in any other country. They are very temperate with regard to wine; though, fince we have taught them our method of toafting ladies they are fond of, and of hob and nobbing with their friends, ringing the two glaffes together; this focial practice has animated them fo much, that they have been fometimes led to drink a greater quantity than they are accustomed to; and they often reproach us with having made them drunkards. In their ordinary living they are very frugal and temperate; and from the fobriety we have seen here, we are now more perfuaded that the elevated fituation of Agrigentum must be one great caufe of its drunkennefs.

The Sicilians have always had the character of being very amorous, and furely not without reafon. The whole nation are poets, even the peafants; and a man ftands a poor chance for a mistress, that is not capable of celebrating her praises. I believe it is generally allowed that the paftoral poetry had its origin in this island; and Theocritus, after whom they still copy, will ever be looked upon as the prince of paftoral poets. And indeed in mufic too, as well as poetry, the foft amorous pieces are generally filed Siciliani; these they used to play all night under their miftreffes' windows, to exprefs the delicacy of their paffion; but ferenading is not now so much in fashion, as it was during the time of their more

intimate connection with Spain, when it was faid by one of their authors, that no perfon could pafs for a man of gallantry that had not got a cold; and was fure never to fucceed in making love unless he made it in a hoarfe voice. The ladies are not now fo rigid, and will fometimes condescend to hear a man, even although he should speak in a clear tone. Neither do they any longer require the prodigious martial feats, that were then neceffary to win them. The attacking of a mad bull, or a wild boar, was reckoned the handsomest compliment a lover could pay to his mistress; and the putting these animals to death foftened her heart much more than all the fighing love-fick tales that could be invented. This has been humorously ridiculed by one of their poets. He fays that Cupid's little golden dart was now changed into a maffy fpear, which answered a double purpose; for at the same time that it pierced the tough bull's hide, it likewise pierced the tender lady's heart. But these Gothic Customs are now confined to Spain, and the gentle Sicilians have re-affumed their foftnefs. To tell you the truth, gallantry is pretty much upon the fame footing here as in Italy, the establishment of Ciccifbees is pretty general, though not quite fo univerfal as on the continent. However, a breach of the marriage vow is no longer looked upon as one of the deadly fins; and the confeffors fall upon eafy and pleasant enough methods of making them atone for it. The husbands are content;