the extinguishing of thefe, the illumination of the palace was likewife extinguished; and the front of it broke out into the appearance of a variety of funs, stars, and wheels of fire, which in a fhort time reduced it to a perfect ruin. And when all appeared finished, there burst from the center of the pile, a vaft explosion of two thoufand rockets, bombs, ferpents, squibs, and devils, which feemed to fill the whole atmosphere; the fall of thefe made terrible havock amongst the clothes of the poor people who were not under cover, but afforded admirable entertainment to the nobility who were. During this exhibition we had a handsome entertainment of coffee, ices and sweetmeats, with a variety of excellent wines, in the great pavilion in the center of the Marino; this was at the expence of the Duke of Caftellano, the prætor (or mayor) of the city. The principal nobility give these entertainments by turns every night during the festival, and vie with each other in their magnificence.

As foon as the fireworks were finished, the viceroy went out to fea in a galley richly illuminated. We chose to stay on shore, to see the appearance it made at a distance. It was rowed by feventy-two oars, and indeed made one of the most beautiful objects you can imagine; flying with vast velocity over the waters, as smooth and as clear as glafs, which fhone round it like a flame, and reflected its fplendour on all fides. The oars beat time to the French horns, clarionets,

and trumpets, of which there was a numerous band on the prow.

The day's entertainment was concluded by the Corfo, which began exa&ly at midnight, and lafted till two in the morning.

The great ftreet was illuminated in the fame magnificent manner as the Marino. The arches and pyramids were erected at little distances from each other, on both fides of the street, betwixt the foot-path and the space for carriages; and when feen from either of the gates, appeared to be two continued lines of the brightest flame. Indeed, these illuminations are so very different, and fo much fuperior, to any I have ever seen, that I find it difficult to give any tolerable idea of them. Two lines of coaches occupied the fpace betwixt these two lines of illumination. They were in the greatest gala; and as they open from the middle, and let down on each fide, the beauty of the ladies, the richness of their dress, and brilliance of their jewels, were displayed in the most advantageous manner.

This beautiful train moved flowly round and round for the space of two hours; and every member of it feemed animated with a defire to please. The company appeared all joy and exultation: Scarce two coaches passed without some mutual acknowlegement of affection or respect; and the pleasure that sparkled from every

eye feemed to be reflected and communicated by a kind of fympathy through the whole.

In fuch an assembly, it was impoffible for the heart not to dilate and expand itself; I own mine was often fo full, that I could hardly find utterance ; and I have seen a tragedy with less emotion than I did this fcene of joy. I always thought these affections had been strangers to pomp and parade; but here the univerfal joy seemed really to spring from the heart; it brightened up every countenance, and spoke affection and friendship from every face. No stately air, no fupercilious look; all appeared friends and equals. And sure I am, that the beauty of the ladies was not half so much heightened either by their dress or their jewels, as by that air of complacency and good humour with which it was animated.

We were distributed in different coaches amongst the nobility, which gave us a better opportunity of making these obfervations. I will own to you, that I have never beheld a more delightful fight; and if superstition often produces fuch effects, I fincerely wish we had a little more of it amongst us. I could have thrown myself down before St. Rofolia, and blessed her for making fo many people happy.

We retired about two o'clock, but the variety of glittering fcenes and gaudy objects still

vibrated before my eyes, and prevented me from fleeping; however, I am almost as much refreshed as if I had; but I really believe four more fuch days will be too much for any of us. Indeed, I am fure that it is impoffible to keep it up, and it must neceffarily flag. I think, from what I can observe, they have already exhausted almost one half of their preparations; how they are to support the other four days, I own, I do not comprehend; however, we shall fee.

I thought to have given you an account of every thing at night, after it was over, but I find it impoffible; the spirits are too much diffipated, and exhausted, and the imagination is too full of objects to be able to feparate them with any degree of regularity. I fhall write you therefore regularly the morning following, when this fever of the fancy has had time to cool, and when things appear as they really are. Adieu then till to-morrow. Here is a fine fhower, which will cool the air, and fave the trouble of watering the Marino and the great street, which is done regularly every morning when there is no rain. The thermometer is at 73.

13th. I thought there would be a falling off. Yesterday's entertainments were not so splendid as those of the day before. They began by the horfe-races. There were three races, and fix horses started each race. These were mounted by boys of about twelve years old, without either

faddle or bridle, but only a fmall piece of cord, by way of bit, in the horfe's mouth, which it feems is fufficient to ftop them. The great street was the course; and to this end it was covered with earth to the depth of five or fix inches. The firing of a cannon at the Porto Felice was the signal for starting; and the horses seemed to understand this, for they all fet off at once, full fpeed, and continued at their utmost stretch to the Porto Nuovo, which was the winning poft. It is exactly a mile, and they performed it in a minute and thirty-five feconds, which, confidering the fize of the horses, (fcarce fourteen hands) we thought was very great. These are generally Barbs, or a mixed breed, 'betwixt a Sicilian and Barb. The boys were gaudily dreffed, and made a pretty appearance. We were furprised to fee how well they stuck on; but indeed, I obferved they had generally laid faft hold of the

mane.

The moment before starting, the ftreet appeared full of people; nor did we conceive how the race could poffibly be performed. Our furprife was increased when we faw the horfes run full speed at the very thickest of this crowd, which did not begin to open, till they were almoft clofe upon it. The people then opened, and fell back on each fide, by a regular uniform motion, from one end of the ftreet to the other. This fingular manœuvre feemed to be performed without any