THE HARBOR OF COWES.

35

occasions of human life when our rough natures are off their guard, and when we take in so largely of the genial inspiration that we spontaneously act out our better part, and show what divine stuff we are made of.

The first taste direct of old England was in the form of a moss rose which one of the boatmen brought off in his button-hole. Was it childish to admire that moss rose more than any other we had ever seen before? It was the first gift of the mother to her children upon their first visit to the old home.

The harbor of Cowes is merely an indentation in the island where the Medina river empties itself. To the east towards the Southampton shore, stretches a point of land wooded to the water's edge with fine oaks, where a noble country-seat presents itself, a modern Gothic structure with a magnificent lawn in front. Beyond this, about two miles up the Medina, and situated between that river and the channel, stands Osborne House, the favorite summer residence of the Queen. East Cowes lies on the east side of the Medina, and communicates with West Cowes, the principal town, by a ferry.

As we put off in a little boat to the Custom House in West Cowes, we found ourselves in a sort of amphitheatre made by the two towns, the country-seats, and the wooded eminences around. West Cowes was particularly striking from this point of view, owing to its picturesque situation at the foot and against the sides of a hill. The upper parts of the town seemed filled with gardens and mantled with delicious foliage.

Our examination at the Custom House was rather formal

36

ENGLISH HOTEL AND DINNER.

than strict, and conducted with great politeness. And here I would say, once for all, that I was agreeably disappointed with respect to all the European Custom Houses whose examination I had to undergo. As I had nothing to conceal, so I attempted to conceal nothing, but prepared to open my trunks at once. I was seldom suffered to unlock more than one trunk, and I always found that frankness and good nature on my part secured good treatment and a mere nominal inspection.

The change from a ship, however commodious, to a neat, quiet English hotel, is a luxury to which no description can do justice. In an English hotel each party has its own parlor, where the meals are served separately. Whatever may be the number of guests in the house, you are thrown into no contact with them. There is no confusion, no noise, but you have all the retirement, quiet, and comfort of a home. The bedrooms are furnished with every convenience, and the beds are large and clean. Every thing is conducted with the most perfect order. Every bell is immediately answered by the proper servant, and every servant perfectly understands his duty.

Our parlor looked out immediately upon the harbor and the wooded point of land beyond. And here behold us seated at our first English dinner, served according to our order. Whatever else there may have been, there were certainly such mutton chops as England is wont to furnish; and when the dessert was placed on the table, there were sweet little rolls of butter, white bread, a huge form of cheese, and a dish of large red strawberries, adorned with fresh strawberry leaves.

The Isle of Wight.

THE Isle of Wight is separated from the mainland of

Hampshire by a channel called the Solent Sea. The average breadth of the channel is about four miles. The longest diameter of the island is twenty-three miles, the shortest thirteen, and its circumference fifty-six miles. On the southern coast of England, rising to a very considerable elevation above the sea, so as to present a surface variegated with hill and valley, watered by several streams, and possessing a fertile soil in a high state of cultivation, it may be called the garden of England. The climate is very pure and mild, especially in the valleys and the sheltered parts of the south side of the island. Undercliff is a well-known place of resort for invalids. Geraniums, myrtles, laurels, and a variety of delicate evergreens, flourish throughout the year. Easily ac

38

WEST COWES.

cessible from London by the railroad to Southampton, and presenting so many attractions, it of course is much resorted to. By the Southampton and Bremen line of steamers it is easily accessible even to ourselves; and perhaps the time is not distant when families from New-York will cross over and Occupy cottages at Cowes and Rye during the summer months.

The drives through the island are charming. The roads are perfectly hard and smooth, and free from dust, are lined on either side by hawthorn hedges, and wind through the most picturesque landscapes. Besides the advantages of a permanent summer residence, it would be a convenient point from whence to make excursions into different parts of the kingdom.

The harbor of Cowes, late the scene of the exciting trial between the English yachts and their single American competitor, always presents a lively appearance from the numerous yachts and boats of various descriptions which are lying there or plying upon its waters. The town of West Cowes is composed of narrow streets which straggle at the base of the hill, and of steep streets which straggle up its sides. But the streets are well paved and kept perfectly clean. Around the town, and even penetrating it at different points, are beautiful gardens; and below the castle, on the water side, are many tasteful residences embowered in trees and flowers. Go in whatever direction you please, and you meet with English neatness, comfort, and taste.

The afternoon of the same day on which we arrived— one of the longest summer days-we took a drive to Caris

DRIVE INTO THE COUNTRY.

39

brooke Castle. Our road lay between tall and verdant hedgerows, sometimes under overhanging trees, and led us through several pleasant hamlets, where roses were trained against the cottage walls and hung in clusters over the doors. Whenever we ascended a hill, we gained some enchanting view of green meadows in the valleys, of cottages embosomed in tall groves of elm and oak, of gardens laid out skilfully for productiveness, and yet made beautiful by flowery borders; of some distant village with its ancient spire, or of some splendid mansion reposing in the bosom of nature, and yet receiving graces from the attendant arts. It would be difficult to convey an adequate idea of the positive enchantment of this drive—just landed as we were for the first time upon the shore of the Old World, in merry England, on an afternoon in the month of June, when nature was fresh and the air soft without sultriness, and where the objects which continually offered themselves to view were not only entertaining on account of their novelty, but were also clothed with the attractions of that ripe cultivation which is only found where succeeding generations have for ages been advancing upon the improvements of those which preceded them.

I observed every where a union of two things-the most careful appropriation of every spot to valuable products that could admit of such appropriation, and the tasteful growing of trees and flowers. With the exception of the extensive parks of the nobility and gentry where many acres are sacrificed to beauty alone, the English have hit wonderfully the proper union of the useful and the beautiful. Thus, this whole