any considerable distance from the sea. They also afford convenient fishing stations, and abundant supplies of sea-weed for manure; while they farther tend, by familiarising a great number of the inhabitants to the water, to increase the supply of sailors, and to give additional energy to the spirit of adventure and enterprise.

Setting out from Berwick, the first considerable promontory we meet with is St. Abb's Head, constituting, with the promontories of Ernescleugh and Fastcastle, the eastern extremity of the Lammermoor hills. It is high and bold; and, being separated from the ridge by a narrow dell, it has, at a distance, the appearance of an island. Passing St. Abb's Head, the coast bends west-north-west past Dunbar, which has an indifferent harbour, to North Berwick. A little to the east of the latter, and about a mile from shore, is the Bass, a large, high, precipitous rock, with deep water all round.

The coast of East Lothian has undergone considerable changes; the sea having in some places receded, while in others it has gained materially on the land. The shore consists, in some parts, of high earthy banks; and these, being undermined by the action of the waves, are every now and then falling down. On the other hand, those parts of the shore that are low and flat are constantly extending themselves, by the deposits of sand, shells, and earth, heaved upon them by the tide. A process of this sort is, of course, going on wherever the coast consists of earthy banks or low beaches; and is as obvious on many parts of the English shore as in the district now mentioned. (See farther, on this subject, Somerville's Survey of East Lothian, pp. 297-319.)

Its

The Bass is within the mouth of the Frith of Forth; the southern shore of which bends south-west from North Berwick to Musselburgh; and thence west, inclining to the north, to Airth. Its north is in most places nearly parallel to its southern shore. The distance from the Bass to Elie Ness, on the opposite coast of Fife, is between 9 and 10 miles; but the Frith gets wider immediately after. depth, from the Isle of May to Kincardine, may be reckoned at about 48 miles. At Queensferry, above Edinburgh, the channel contracts to about 2 miles in breadth, but it again expands to a breadth of 4 or 5 miles. The shores of this spacious inlet are low, in part rocky, in part a pleasant beach, but everywhere of the greatest beauty. The view of Edinburgh from the Frith is particularly fine. There is good anchorage ground in many parts of this magnificent æstuary: but there is not, in its whole extent, a single good harbour The principal ports on its south side are Leith, Queensferry, Borrowstonness, and Grangemouth; with Bruntisland, Kinghorn, Kirkcaldy, and Largo on the north side. Leith, being the port of Edinburgh, has a considerable trade; and very large sums have been expended on the construction of docks, and in efforts to improve the harbour. Owing, however, to the want of water, Leith is not, and we apprehend never can be, any thing better than a high-water harbour; and even at springs it has not more than 16 or 17 feet. But at Newhaven and Granton, a little more to the west, the water near the shore is a good deal deeper: it would be comparatively easy, by carrying out piers in either of these places, to make a harbour

accessible at all times; and this, in fact, is now being attempted. Grangemouth, situated at the eastern extremity of the Forth and Clyde Canal, has a good deal of trade. It is rarely, however, visited by ships drawing more than 10 or 12 feet water. Bruntisland

a good high-water harbour, as is also Kirkcaldy. There is pretty good anchorage ground in Leith Roads, Bruntisland Roads, and Largo Bay. Light-houses have been erected on Inchkeith Island, opposite to Leith, and on the Isle of May, at the mouth of the Frith.

The shores of Fife, or of the extensive peninsula lying between the Friths of Forth and Tay, are mostly rocky, without, however, being lofty. At St. Andrew's, and some other places, the sea has encroached considerably on the land. Fifeness, the eastern extremity of the county, lies nearly north from the Isle of May, distant about 6 miles. From this point the shore turns north-west to the mouth of the Eden, and then north to Tentsmoor Point, at the mouth of the Frith of Tay. St. Andrew's Bay, in the elbow, affords good anchorage in from 9 to 12 fathoms; but the harbour of St. Andrew's dries at low water.

Nearly due east from Buttonness, distant about 12 miles, is the Bell Rock, a dangerous insulated ledge, about 850 yards in length by 110 in breadth. At low water some of its summits appear from 4 to 8 feet above the level of the sea; but at high water they are always covered. Many vessels have been lost upon this rock; and, to lessen the chance of such disasters in future, a magnificent light-house, constructed on the model of the Eddystone, has been erected, within these few years, on one of its points. The lantern is 115 feet above low-water mark.

Leaving the Tay, which has been already described, the land. stretches north by east, in a pretty even line, as far as Buchanness Point, in Aberdeenshire, the most easterly land in Scotland, in lat. * 57° 29′ 15′′ N., long. 1° 47′ W. The coast, though in some places low and sandy, is mostly bold and rocky. Between Arbroath and Montrose there are cliffs penetrated by tremendous caverns; of which the Geylit Pot, forming a communication between the sea and a circular chasm at some distance in the country, is the most celebrated. The sandy part of this coast lies principally contiguous to, and immediately north from, Aberdeen. In some places the sand is so moveable that it has more than once occasioned great mischief. Near Buchanness are the famous arched rocks, called the Bullers of Buchan, enclosing a natural harbour.

Unfortunately, there is not, on the whole coast, from the Tay to Buchanness, a single really good harbour. Montrose and Aberdeen, which, especially the first, are by far the best, have been already noticed. Stonehaven harbour dries at low water; and at high water, when the wind is easterly, there is a very heavy swell. Peterhead, a little to the north of Buchanness, has a double harbour; but it also labours under a deficiency of water, though recently it has been much improved. A good deal of trade is carried on from the town; the inhabitants of which have distinguished themselves by the spirit and

fisheries. A light-house has lately been erected on the Point of Buchanness.

From Peterhead a bold and rugged shore extends north, inclining a little to the west to Kinnaird Head, the Taizalum Promontorium of the ancients. It is crowned by a castle and a conspicuous light-house. At Kinnaird Head, the northerly direction of the coast suddenly changes; and, stretching nearly due west by Troup Head and Knock Head to Burgh Head, it declines south-west to the bottom of the Moray Frith and Loch Beauley. This line of coast forms the base of the vast triangular bay, extending from Kinnaird Head to the mouth of the Moray Frith, and thence to Duncansby Head. The ports from Kinnaird Head to Fort George are merely tide havens. In the first part the shore is bold, precipitous, and picturesque; but from the Burgh Head, along the Moray Frith to Loch Beauley, it is mostly low and sandy. Large vessels may anchor opposite Inverness, or go farther up to Loch Beauley.

The east end of the Caledonian Canal unites with the Moray Frith at Clachnacarry Basin, a little to the west of Inverness. The canal admits vessels drawing 15 feet water.

Crossing the ferry from Inverness to the opposite shore, the coast, which is low and sandy, stretches north-east to the mouth of the Frith of Cromarty, and thence to the promontory of Tarbet Ness, separating the Moray Frith from the Frith of Tain or Dornoch. The Frith of Cromarty is about a mile wide at its entrance, extending south-west to Dingwall, about 17 miles. It is, beyond all doubt, the finest harbour on the east coast of Great Britain, and is, indeed, surpassed by very few in any part of the world. At its mouth it has from 30 to 22 fathoms water, the depth within varying from 15 to 7 fathoms. The town of Cromarty stands on the south side of the Frith, a little within its mouth. Owing to the limited extent of the good land round the Frith, and the want of manufacturing towns, population, and internal communication, it has very little trade; so that this excellent harbour is comparatively useless.

Between the point of Tarbet Ness, on which is a light-house, and Dornoch the coast of Sutherland takes a north-east direction. Except at Brora and a few other places, it is mostly low and sandy. But on the confines of Caithness the mountains come down to the water's edge, terminating in the lofty stupendous precipices that form the Ord of Caithness.

From this point the coast pursues its north-easterly direction to the Noss Head. It is in general bold and rugged. In one of the openings of the cliffs is the thriving town and harbour of Wick. Being conveniently situated for the herring fishery, of which it is now the principal station, great efforts have been made to improve its port; and they have been so far successful, that it affords safe accommodation for large numbers of the smaller class of vessels.

Noss Head lies a little to the north of Wick. It is remarkable for its high bold cliffs, which, in clear weather, are visible at a great distance at sea. Within the head is Sinclair's Bay, in which ships may anchor with off-shore winds. From the bottom of the bay the coast

This

runs north north-east, till it terminates in Duncansby Head. celebrated promontory, the Berubium of the ancients, and the extreme north-east point of Great Britain, is in lat. 58° 38′ N., long. 3° 2′ W. It consists of lofty perpendicular cliffs, some of which stand detached in the sea, and are sometimes mistaken by mariners for Noss Head, to which it bears a considerable resemblance. To obviate such mistakes, which have been occasionally attended with fatal consequences, it has been proposed to erect a light-house on Duncansby Head. John o'Groat's house is about 1 mile west from the extreme point of Duncansby Head. Of this structure nothing now remains but the

foundations.

About 3 miles east by north from the Head are the rocky islets called the Pentland Skerries. For the security of mariners in the Pentland Frith two light-houses have been erected on the Great Skerry. In the Pentland Frith the tides are very violent. When strongest they run about 9 miles an hour.

From Duncansby Head the coast runs north-north-west, in a waving line, to Dunnet Head, the most northerly headland of Great Britain, in lat. 58° 40' 30'' N., long. 3° 22′ W. It is high and rocky. A lighthouse has recently been erected on the Head, the lantern being 346 feet above the mean level of the sea.

Between Dunnet Head and Holburn Head is Dunnet Bay, having the town of Thurso, with a moderately good harbour, on its south-western side. But it is too remote, the country around too barren, and the navigation of the Pentland Frith too dangerous, to allow of its ever becoming a place of any importance.

From Holburn Head the coast, which in some places is deeply indented, and in others runs out into bold precipitous headlands, — of which Strathy Head and Far Out Head are the most remarkable — pursues, on the whole, a nearly westerly direction, till it ends in Cape Wrath, or Parph Head. The cliffs that compose the sides of this famous headland consist of old red sandstone, and are singularly magnificent; some of them overhang the sea to the height of from 300 to 500 feet, exhibiting vast fissures, caverns, and subterranean openings, into which the water rushes with tremendous fury. The headland of the Cape itself is, however, a mass of granite, washed smooth and bright by the ceaseless action of the waves. It is fenced round with dangerous rocks, some of them nearly a mile from shore. Cape Wrath forms the north-western extremity of the mainland of Great Britain, and is in lat. 58° 37′ N., long. 5° W. A light-house was erected on it in 1828, having the lantern elevated 400 feet above high water mark. It would be useless to enter at so much length into the description of the western coast of Scotland from Cape Wrath to the Clyde: it is sufficient to observe that, throughout its whole extent, it is rugged, wild, and dreary, the mountains generally coming close to the water's edge. It is indented in many places by narrow arms of the sea, penetrating far inland, carrying, in most instances, a great depth of water even to their inmost recesses, and affording safe but unfrequented asylums for the largest fleets. Linnhe Loch, taken in connection with

north-west from Dowart, in Mull, to the western extremity of the Caledonian Canal, of which it may be said to form a part, a distance of about 34 miles, and has deep water throughout.

The islands of Skye, Mull, and Jura are separated from the mainland by narrow channels, through which the tide rushes with much force. In some places it forms dangerous whirlpools, as at Corryvrechan, between Jura and the small island of Scarba.

The great arm of the sea, lying between the Mull of Cantire and the Ayrshire coast, has the Island of Arran in its centre. At its northern extremity it branches off into the two great divisions of Loch Fyne and the Frith of Clyde, separated by the island of Rothsay and the district of Cowall, in Aygyleshire. The Frith of Clyde is again subdivided into three arms; viz., Loch Long, separating Argyleshire from Dunbartonshire; Loch Gare, of very inferior dimensions to Loch Long, but parallel to, and separated from it by a narrow isthmus ; and the æstuary of the Clyde, winding east, with a little inclination to the south, having Dunbartonshire in the angle between it and Loch Long.

Loch Fyne extends, with a slightly circular sweep, from Skipness Point, round by Silvercrags and Inverary, to Achadounan, a space of about 40 miles. Its breadth from Skipness Point to the opposite point of Cowall is about 7 miles, contracting gradually as it penetrates into the interior. It has very deep water throughout; so much so, that at Inverary, within about 7 miles of the bottom of the loch, there are upwards of 60 fathoms! Loch Fyne used to be one of the principal seats of the herring fishery. The Crinan Canal, between Loch Gilphead on Loch Fyne and the head of the sound of Jura, insulates the long narrow peninsula of Knapdale and Cantire; and, consequently, saves those vessels that would otherwise be obliged to go round the Mull of Cantire a lengthened navigation.

The water in Loch Long and Loch Gare is also very deep; and in the Frith of Clyde, within a short distance of Greenock, there are 23 fathoms at ebb. This and Port Glasgow are the principal harbours of the Clyde, and, as such, possess a good deal of shipping, and enjoy an extensive commerce. Lamlash Bay, on the east coast of the Isle of Arran, is, however, the finest harbour near the mouth of the Clyde. It is completely land-locked, being protected from the easterly gales by the little island of Lamlash.

The Ayrshire coast, as far as Girvan, is mostly low and sandy. A great deal of labour has been expended on the formation of a harbour at Ardrossan, to which it was intended to bring a canal from Glasgow ; but the canal has only been excavated as far as the thriving village of Johnston, a little to the west of Paisley; and it is now proposed to construct a railroad from Johnston to Ardrossan. The harbour of Troon, about 10 miles from Kilmarnock, to which it is united by a railroad, has recently been very much improved by the exertions and at the expense of the Duke of Portland, and is now decidedly the best on the coast. Ayr harbour has also been materially improved; but it dries at low water, and the westerly gales throw in a heavy sea. From Girvan to Wigtownshire the mountains come close to the water's