sometimes seen straying up country, attracting a crowd around it at the inn.

Such is the contrast between the appearance of things in this respect in this state now, and in the days of its early settlement. It is great and striking. It has been the result of time; and the judicious persevering efforts of its inhabitants. The Divine blessing has been eminently bestowed on this people, preserving them comparatively from the ravages of war, the devastations of fires, and the visitations of epidemic, and mortal distempers.

This difference is seen fully by those only whose memory can go back to the days of Gov. Chittenden and his compatriots. Some such survive; but their number is small. It is a privilege to hear them point out the great changes which have taken place; but one that cannot long be enjoyed. They have been gradual, but imperceptible, like the ravages of time; and seen after stated intervals, and to the best advantage after a lapse of half a century. It is then like a prospect from the summit of the green mountains, impressive and absorbing.

191

CHAPTER XIII.

Villages. Increase of their numbers.-Growth.-Exemplified.Brattleboro.-Contrast of thirty or forty years.-Its situation.— Public buildings.-View of it from the burying ground. Typographic Co.-Early settlers.-First bridge over the Con necticut.-Members of congress.-Its first clergyman.-Dum merston.-Putney.-Westminster.-Some account of it.-Its part in the early history of the state.-Members of congress.Rev. Lemuel Haynes.-Monument.-Bellows Falls.-Contrast between it and Westminster.-Curiosity of the falls. Crossing the mountain.-Bennington.-Some particulars of it.-Its early history.-Antiquity.-Head quarters.-Its founders.-Centre. -Burying-ground.-East village.-Furnace.-Hinsdale village.-General improvement and prosperity.-Pleasantness.— Gov. Tichener.

In the multiplication and growth of villages, changes and improvements are visible and striking. Their number has been greatly augmented in the lapse of fifty or sixty years. Hamlets and small clusters of buildings were all that could then be seen in the most favored portions of the state. Now neat, thriving villa ges, and groups of buildings are interspersed its whole length and breadth, along the margin of its rivers and streams; in many a valley and on some of its hill-sides and tops. In those which were commenced at that period,

the increase and alterations in many instances have been such, that little resemblance now can be traced back to their origin.

As an exemplification of this remark, Brattleboro might be named. The writer remembers when one tavern, a plain, upright, ordinary dwelling; two stores; a printing office, here and there a mechanic shop, and a few houses along the level flat, now the principal street, were the most that could be seen, or made of it, as to its exterior. Now one splendid stagetavern, and two ample hotels; about fifteen stores; four houses of public Divine worship; one bank, a high school; extensive printing establishment; numerous machine shops and factories are found in it. The main street has been thickly set with houses, some of them highly elegant and tasteful. The current of business flowing south to 'the creek;' along its banks and up the adjacent hill, has crowded the uneven ground so compactly with buildings that they appear at a distance to be thrown one upon another, like the lime stone rocks sometimes seen on the sides of the green mountains. But this irregularity renders the appearance not less, but more interesting. Southerly and westerly also its limits have been extended far with tenements in close order; and on the rising ground toward West Brattleboro, making a fine appearance, having doubled ten times, perhaps, the space occupied thirty-five years since, and twenty times the number of buildings, and proportionally its population.

Having thus named this village for the illustration of

a remark relative to the villages of the state generally, it may be permitted, it is hoped, here to add, that the best view of it at one glance is from the burying ground, on the summit of the hill south. The main travel used formerly to go directly by it; but improvements have turned it to the right. If then you would enjoy the enchanting prospect from it; so highly commended by Professor Silliman, in his tour to Canada, you must ascend the hill. It is a consecrated spot, and you will be richly repaid for the toil; and in self-communion amid the mementos of your predecessors to eternity, and emblems of mortality, your spirit may be benefited. The next most eligible direction from which to view it, is the New Hampshire side of the river, as you come down the stage road from Chesterfield. Indeed here is presented the most comprehensive view of it, if less distinct, not the less attractive; mellowed, and enriched, so to speak, by the distance and by its alternate coming to and going from your eyes, as you pass the hills and vallies; the openings and thickets of West mountain river road. If along this sequestered route, your ride should be in November, after the frost had changed the leafy honors of the forest, into ten thousand various hues and tinges of color, inimitable to art and indiscribable; contrasting with the hum of business and busy abodes of men, the beautiful and significant scenery around you must interest your feelings, if not penetrate your heart.

The approach to this village by the three great roads

on the Vermont side; north, south and west, is so overshadowed by hills and woodlands, and windings of the road, that it breaks upon your view at once. The stranger from the south especially, might begin to think he had missed his way. He saw no suburbs, and no appearance of the expected village, till his doubts were removed by the white spire of the church running up alone amid the green foliage, and glittering in the sun, a harbinger of rest to the weary, and pointing homeward the pilgrim.

Brattleboro has not the advantage of overlooking the surrounding country, and of extensive prospects enjoyed by elevated situations. Between it and Burlington the contrast in this respect is almost perfect. Both afford the highest pleasure in contemplation; but in a different way. This is the great secret of the unfailing enjoyment experienced in visiting such regions as Vermont ; the almost endless variety and contrariety of scenery ; ever varying and diversified prospects. If one place more than another is better adapted to satisfy Cowper's character of man, it is such a district :

"Various that the mind

Of desultory man, studious of change,

And pleased with novelty, may be indulged."

Burlington has been described in another place as unrivaled in its prospects, elevated and majestic. Brattleboro in the other transverse extreme of the state, is almost concealed by the surrounding mountains and hills,