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many Indian friends happy by giving was attended by all the exciting inthem one to roast for a dance. There fluences of the chase. Even the royalty is a constant stream of visitors to see of Europe chased these quadrupeds these wonderful animals, and, to the over the plains and pronounced it fine thoughtful, they afford more than pass- sport. Many of these animals have ing interest. Only three score years thus fall victims to the sportsman's ago they were numberless. They were rifle. However, in many respects the so numerous as to actually obstruct the extermination of the buffalo has been a passage of trains that went through blessing to Northwest Texas. The bufthis country in the early days, and in falo was the Indian's commissary, and some instances, it is said, they actually as long as they grazed on the open locked horns with the small locomo- prairie, the hostile Indians depredated tives. Colonel Goodnight is considered on the white settler. Also, the demise to be a very reliable man. I have never
of the buffalo opened up a vast grazheard his word discounted. He told ing district to the stockmen, and thousme about a herd of buffalo that he saw
ands of head of cattle were fattened en route to their winter grazing ground every year where once the buffalo alone from the Dakota country. The figures
held possession. The civilizing inwere not given by thousands or hun- fluences of the white man have been too dreds of thousands, which, at best, much for the buffalo and the wild Inwould only be an estimate. I give the dian, and both have almost passed into exact figures as he gave them to me.
history. But should we destroy the He said that he saw a herd of them buffalo utterly? Who wishes to see him twenty-five miles wide and one hun- pass forever from the American stage? dred and twenty-five miles long, mak- Ought we not to provide a sufficient naing three thousand one hundred and tional reservation for the buffalo? twenty-five square miles of buffalo. With the passing of Mr. Goodnight his They left the ground behind them as ranch is likely to be broken up, pass bare as a floor, and incidentally drank into less appreciative hands, and soon dry several small streams. This story
this herd will be but a memory to rewas hard to believe, even in the pres- mind us of this great nation of animals. ence of the formidable looking narra- Besides being the native habitat of tor. But I did not dispute his word
this animal, the Palo Duro Canon is -I will leave that for some one who
one of the most lovely and fascinating lives farther from him and knows less bits of country in the whole United of him than I do. We can hardly be- States. Here, not only may the buffalo lieve that this great nation of animals be preserved in his natural state, but a is so soon nearly extinct. During the typical section of the country, that four years, from 1875 to 1879, five would represent the early history of thousand men made buffalo hunting a this great and growing empire, may be business, making a great slaughter pen set apart for the future millions. of Northwest Texas. They were killed Mulberry Canon, an arroyo of the mainly for their hides, which brought Palo Duro, which the present buffalo the pitiful sum of one dollar each, ranch includes, forms by its perpendicwhereas, now a fine buffalo robe is
ular cliffs an impassable barrier to the worth one hundred times that amount. plains beyond. For the purpose of Their bones were utilized as fertilizer. getting an extended view of this panoAt present a large, full-blooded buffalo, rama of flowers, hedges, trees, leaping including head and feet mounted, is waterfalls, deep chasms and rolling worth about five hundred dollars. No hills, bathed in the mellow shades of doubt buffalo hunting, for sport alone, the late afternoon, I clambered to the
top of a rocky eminence and watched, I saw her joyful cloud train pass a herd delighted, till the shadows in the canon of cattle that were feeding. The cows began to fade into the darkness. Look- were caught up in her arms, and subing far to the west I noted a lone buf- mitting to the mysterious spell, were falo, standing high and immovable on painted in all their coats of many colors a cliff, both outlined against the red on the pale blue curtain of the sky. and gold of the sky. The old patriarch Motionless, they stood, delighting the was looking toward the sunset and the eye of the enchanting queen till she had plains, the once open dominion of his passed. A great steam plow was steadancestors. He seemed like the spirit of ily moving along when, with an im
He and I were alone in perious wave of her wand, it suddenly the wild, open West. I felt that he was became a majestically floating man-ofthe rightful ruler of this realm, though war. Impossible of description was a now only a relic of that once powerful town that I saw in the midst of one of reign.
the sorceress' happiest charms. It was From the buffalo ranch the explora- six miles away.
The houses were great, tion party travelled thirty-five miles grand, majestical castles, painted in all across the plains to a point where it the mellow hues of the rainbow, and was proposed to enter the main canon. steepled in silver and gold. At the base Ascending the cap rock, the plains of the city appeared a broad, peaceful stretched out before us. The only ob
sea, athwart which the fairy palaces struction to the view was our circum- cast their long, dark shadows, and on scribed organs of vision. Someone has its bosom rode majestically beautiful, said of the plains that you could see
white-winged ocean vessels. It seemed farther and see less than in any other like a city not made with hands. country in the world. It is true that About sundown we arrived at the you can see where the pale blue screen
ranch house of Mr. C. M. Luttrell, a of the horizon obscures the objects be- typical plainsman. By this term I yond, yet he who sees little here would mean a pure-blooded Anglo-Saxon, an see nothing were he to travel around open hearted, hospitable, honest, hardthe world. The person who is afflicted working man. It is claimed by good with littleness ought to spend his vaca- authority that the purest Anglo-Saxon tions on the plains. The largeness of population on the globe is to be found the country is contagious.
in the Panhandle of Texas. The same In journeying across the plains the hospitality that never turned even an optical illusion termed mirage is very enemy from the door in the time of old evident. Images follow each other with Cedric, the Saxon, is still to be found such rapidity and with so many varia
in the ranch homes of the West. The tions that an imaginative traveller may stranger is welcome to stop, eat, sleep, easily fancy himself in an enchanted and make himself at home until ready land. Delusion is everywhere. What to go on his way rejoicing. If a neighseems to be one mile is many. The bor happens in when nobody is at home mirage plays from nine o'clock in the he thinks nothing of going in, preparforenoon to four o'clock in the after- ing meals, and going to bed just as if noon. By it the grassy plains are con- he were at home, and nothing less is verted into beautiful, shimmering lakes. expected of him. The old free range, Mantled in a low wisp of cloud, blue, common herding, and mutual interests floating, mysterious, a lake at her feet, in such a great open country have the ethereal enchantress of the plains served to join this race of men into a casts enraptured spells over all things common brotherhood. ---whether houses, land, cattle, or men. But hospitality is not the only virtue
of the plainsman; he is an economic suc- From Mr. Luttrell's a half-day's cess. Twenty years ago Mr. Luttrel journey brought us to the Adair ranch, and wife, then young and newly mar- commonly known as the “J. A. Ranch," ried, came to the plains. Then he had consisting of more than a million acres, nothing; now he is worth one hundred the largest now in Texas. This imthousand dollars. He has not made this mense body of land includes the greater by fraud or speculation, but by in- part of the canon. A real cowboy condustry, thrift, and perseverance; by ducted us to a point where we might being frugal and putting honest labor descend into it. The hero of the plains in a good place and receiving God's re- is the cowboy, and let me say just a ward and increase. He conducted the word in his behalf. Although ordinexpedition into the canon, and spent arily known by his sombrero, boots, several days in camp, though this, he spurs, and pistols, he has a kind heart said, was the first holiday he had taken and noble generosity hidden beneath in twenty years. He and his wife have these rough exteriors. A woman is far not always had an easy time; nor have sa fer on a million-acre ranch, among they had many of the so-called pleas- hundreds of these so-called desperadoes, ures or advantages of life; but they than she would be walking down the have had health, happiness, pure air street of a metropolis. The insult of and water, sound sleep, plenty to eat, not a single woman is on record to and clear consciences. Every week this stain the honor of the cowboy. The old man's hack goes to market some twenty time cowboy, the “long rope and wide miles away, loaded with chickens, eggs, loop” kind, often came from a home of and fruits, though he could buy ten culture in the East to make his fortune times over many men who drive hand- in this wild country, and often for
His wife told me that she more desperate reasons, and while pilhad over one thousand frying chickens lowing his head on his saddle and covand over five hundred hens, the marketering his body with his blanket, having price for chickens being fifty-five cents nothing but the stars above him, he each and eggs twenty-two cents per would dream of fair eyes and soft dozen. I noticed that she collected a hands—far, far away. large tub full of eggs daily. I point to Our guide recalled to our minds that this man as a success. All men cannot the Palo Duro Canon was the original be what the world calls great; we must home of the great Comanche Indian have producers, men who are content to nation; along its borders are their anremain underground in the great build- cient burial grounds as yet undisturbed ing of our nation. He may be unknown by the rude hand of civilized man, and to the world, but he is well and favor- within its walls are the ashes of many ably known to his neighbors; he may be winter camp fires, among which lie unlettered, though he is rich in experi- hidden the charred bones of more than ence, has learned much from nature, one unfortunate frontiersman. From and knows instinctively a real man; he the Comanches the canon received its may not understand the financial name, Palo Duro, meaning "hard manipulations of Wall Street, but he wood," a certain kind of which was has been able to make a living and found growing in abundance there and amass a small fortune besides; he has used by them in starting fires by fricnot worshipped God in costly churches tion. This place was an ideal home for or elegant temples, but when he comes the Indians, affording protection from to bid good-by to this vain world he the blizzards of winter, while the adwill be ready to go, will stand a good jacent plains were covered with buffalo, chance of getting to heaven, and will deer, and antelope for their food. On feel at home when he gets there.
the wild Llano Estacado roamed great herds of wild horses, said to be the de- spring would be early tempted by the scendants of those wonderful Arabian alluring space to spread their newblooded steeds brought over by Cortez fledged pinions, and sail away into the with his expedition to conquer Mexico, uncharted realms of the sky and be and furnishing those fleet ponies on happy. That most perfect little poem which the Comanches raced across the of Tennyson's came into my mindplains with the speed of the wind. Con
He clasps the crag with crooked hands; trary to the usual Indian method of
Close to the sun in lonely lands, fighting, no doubt influenced by the
Ring'd with the azure world, he stands. topography of the country, the Co
The wrinkled sea beneath him crawls; manches invariably fought on horse
He watches from his mountain walls, back and in the open, riding around
And like a thunderbolt he falls, their foe and shooting under their ponies while hanging on the opposite We pitched our tent under a large side for protection. Tall, lithe, and ac- cedar tree some one hundred feet down tive, these famous red-skinned warriors the edge of the north canon wall. At attained to feats of horsemanship that our very feet an icy stream of clear, have never been equalled.
pure water gushed from the rocks into Possibly with no less grace and ease spray hundreds of feet below. In than one of those Comanches, our guide marked contrast to the plains above, we sat on his capering cowpony as he re- found the inside of this great fissure connoitered the way. I approached on
lined with luxuriant growth and thickly foot to the edge of the canon with populated with animal life. With a hesitation and excitement. I heard of pair of binoculars we saw here and two men who went to the Grand Canon there herds of deer and antelope feedof the Colorado and sat down on its ing on the grassy knolls; one of the margin. After looking a few moments party was startled by coming in conat the overaweing scene, one of them be- tact with a little black bear which gan crying; the other stammered curled itself into a ball and rolled preslowly, “Well, I am damned.” Finally cipitately down the canon side; at supI stood on the very rim of this abyss, per time the wolves gathered about our fifteen hundred feet in depth, and was camp and howled hungrily. tempted to exclaim with the cowboy After supper the party fell to diswho for the first time looked into its cussing the cause of this great crack in depths, "Hurrah for God!” The soli- the earth, which is a matter of much tude of the scene was oppressive, over- uncertainty. Several theories, howmastering; you feel that you are look- ever, were advanced. Whether or not ing into eternity itself. For miles and the fact has ever been noticed or menmiles on every side theer was nothing tioned I do not know, but it is true that but empty space; it almost crushed me. the beds of this canon, the Grand I looked downward and it almost drove Canon of the Colorado, and the smaller me mad, and I wanted to make the canons of New Mexico and Arizona are wild leap. Nature in her untouched on approximately the same level. Constate reigned over this profusion in sidered in the light that these fissures silence, and I stood long in mute ac- are in no sense a tributary system, we cord. Suddenly I was startled by the have a striking phenomenon, and one scream of an eagle. A thousand feet that may shed some light on the cause below on a dizzy crag of rock two of of these canons. Ordinarily geologists those magnificent birds were protecting claim that they are due to the erosion and feeding their young. What an en- of water, and since they do not line in vironment! Here their
Here their kingly off- the volcanic belt, this seems to be the only plausible geological reason. Mr. During the ten days out many interGoodnight, whose opinions are based esting things were observed. Mr. upon scientific knowledge, and after Strecker averred that he found several years of study and meditation, says pieces of substance that could easily that it is impossible that erosion could have been some of the material that had have caused the Palo Duro Canon. On rained down as fire on the pre-historics. being asked for his theory, he replied: On one of our excursions a spinal ver
“Well, my theory is that the world tebra was picked up. Its dimensions, cracked open; why, I do not know.” being thirteen inches in width, excited At a casual glance appearances are
interest. After careful investigation it in his favor; and a careful study does was classed as belonging to the prenot confirm the erosion theory.
historic dinosaur, a three-toed animal The cowboy told us of an old Indian that progressed on its hind feet, and legend, which I have heard corrobo- approached a height of seventy feet. rated since by Indians themselves, that Footprints, judged to be of this same curiously accounts for this great gorge.
animal were found near Glen Rose, It is an old, old story that has now Somerville county, Texas, in 1908. The almost ceased to be repeated from great geologist, Winchell, thus speaks father to son in the wigwams and
of footprints made by this enormous around the campfires of the Indians beast which were discovered many years that once inhabited this region. The ago in the sandstone of the Connecticut story tellers point with pride to a time, valley: “It is a solemn and impressive beyond which the memory of man run
thought that the footprints of these neth not, when the Southwest was dumb and senseless creatures have been densely populated and filled with great preserved in all their perfections for cities. In New Mexico, Arizona, Colo- thousands of ages, while so many of rado, and Northwest Texas there are
the works of man which date but a unmista keable signs of an ancient civ- century back have been obliterated ilization, probably coeval with the en
from the record of time. Kings and lightened age of the ancient Toltecs, conquerors have marched at the heads which confirm this legend. In the of armies across continents, and have brakes of the Canadian river valley a piled up aggregates of human suffering solitary well digger unearthed a rock to the skies, and all physical traces of chimney which bore curious inscrip- their march have disappeared; but this tions and carvings, and in several other solitary biped which stalked along the instances, especially in New Mexico and margin of a New England inlet before Arizona, unmistakable evidences of the human race was born, pressed footburied habitations may be found. But, prints in the soft and shifting sand so the story goes, there occurred a ter- which the rising and sinking of the rible meteoric shower, in which masses
continent could not wipe out." of burning, molten stone and iron The fauna of the Palo Duro country rained like hail and burned up the was also found to be very interesting. cities and the people, all the vegetation, Here the animals of the staked and and dried up the streams. The small mesquite plains are strangely interremnant of this great people who were mingled with the species of the mounso fortunate as to escape, were scorched tain region of Trans-Pecos Texas. and baked to a reddish brown, similar Many of the animals collected on the to the hues of the Indians and Mexi- trip furnish new records for Northcans at the present day. And so intense west Texas. The reptiles obtained numwas the heat during the rain of fire that bered three hundred and forty-six specithis great crack in the earth was caused. mens, representing thirty-six species.