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THE GOVERNESS.

This pattern is particularly suitable for a veil or fall. It forms the lower border, and the upper part may be ornamented with any sprigs your taste may suggest.

of the 4 slip,

Begin at a, 45 Ch., miss 4, Dc. on 5th, + 3 Ch. miss 3, Dc. on 4th +9 times; 3 Ch., slip 1, work up the other side of the 45 Ch., || 3 Ch., Dc. on centre of the 3 missed in the last row, || 8 times; 3 Ch., Sc. on 4th, slip 4, 7 Ch.; now form the lowest row of open hem, Dc. on the last 3 Ch., miss 3, Dc. on 4th, 8 times; 3 Ch., miss 3, Sc. This completes the open-work: work round in Dc., working two into every one round the point. The edge is worked as follows: + 1 Sc., 1 Dc., 1 Te., 2 long Te., 1 Tc., 1 Dc., 1 Sc., 1 slip, + repeat all round the leaf, working two stitches into one at the point.

on 4th, slip 4.

STEM.-20 Ch.

STAR FLOWER.-22 Ch., slip in 13th for loop, Sc. all round, || 8 Ch., 7 slip, Sc. all round, one slip on loop, || 5 times; 12 Sc. on Ch.

12. Ch. for Stem.

LEAF, No. 1.-22 Ch., miss 3, Dc. on 4th, 2 Ch., miss 2, Dc. on 3rd, twice, 2 Ch. 1 Sc. I slip. Sc. all round, slip on stem: for the loops, +11 Ch., miss 2, Dc. through 3rd, +4 times, 11 Ch., slip on stem, work round in Sc., missing every 12th. 8. Sc. on Stem.

Repeat Leaf, 12 Ch., for main stem.

Ch., Tc. on 4th, + repeat,
Work up the other side

LEAF, No. 2.-26 Ch., 1 Dc. on 23rd, +3 3 Ch., De. in 4th, 3 Ch., Sc. in 4th, slip 1. (leaving 5 Ch. for stem), 2 Ch., Dc. on 3rd., || 3 Ch., Tc. on 4th, || 3 times, taking care that the middle one of the three missed in the last row is now taken up; 3 Ch. slip at the point, and slip-stitch down the centre, 1 Sc., 2 Dc. 2 Te., 1 long Tc., 1 Tc., 1 Dc., 1 slip e repeat; and again for the point working 2 in 1, repeat also twice for the other side of the leaf, but reversing the directions (1 slip, 1 De., &c.), 5 Sc. on stem. Or the leaf, No. 1, may be repeated.

Repeat 1st Leaf, with 12 Ch., instead of 8, for stem. Then opposite 2ND LEAF, +18 Ch., slip 11 for small leaf, and work round in Sc., leaving 6 Ch. for stem. Repeat this last leaf, forming part of the flower. 1 Ch., 11 slip, 5 Se., 5 Ch., for the short bar to connect the two leaves, join to the corresponding side of the last leaf; work back in Sc., 4 Sc. on leaf, 9 Ch. (for long bar), join to point of last leaf, work back in Sc., and down the other side of the leaf, 6 Sc. on Ch. Small leaf opposite 1st 6 Sc. on Ch., and 6 on the main stem.

SMALL OPEN LEAF.-16 Ch. join into a loop; work round in Dc., except the first and last stitches, which must be Sc.; finish with slipstitch.

12. Sc. on Ch.; repeat STAR FLOWER; 12 Sc. on Ch.; repeat SMALL OPEN LEAF, 14 Sc. on Ch.; fasten off.

No. 2.-SPRIG.

[Evans's Boar's-Head Cotton.-No. 50.]

22 Ch. (viz. 6 for main stem, 8 for flower stem, 8 for flower); work back on the last 8, 1 Sc., 1 Dc., 3 Tc., 1 Dc., 1 slip; 8 Ch.; turn on the wrong side, and do 9 Ch.; join to the point of the leaf, and work back in Sc., then on the 8, as before; and 8 Sc. on stem; 8 Ch. for stem.

ROSE LEAF.-16 Ch., 1 slip, +2 Ch., De. on 3rd, + twice, 13 Ch., slip 1,2 Ch., Dc. on 3rd twice, 8 Ch., slip 1, 2 Ch., De. in 3rd, 2 Ch., Dc. in 3rd, ÷ repeat, Dc. in 6th of 13 Ch., 2 Ch., Dc. in 3rd, 2 Ch., Dc. in 3rd, 8 Ch., slip 1, 2 Ch., Dc. in 3rd, 2 Ch., Dc. in 3rd., Dc. in the 9th of the 16th; 2 Ch. Sc. on 6th of the 16. Slip-stitch on the 5th, leaving 4 for the stem; five open veinings are thus formed, which are worked round as follows:

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1st. Work up the side, to the point in Dc., working two stitches in one every other time. Down the other side work plainly in Dc., and join to the centre open hem, by taking a slip-stitch through the centre of the five chain that are between the two fibres.

2nd. Work as the first; but, before twisting the thread round the needle for the first five stitches, pass the hook through the edge of each of the last five, thus connecting them together.

3rd. All round in Dc., working two stitches in one round the point. 4th. In Dc., working only one stitch in each on the first side, and two in every alternate of the second.

5th. As 4th, joining the first five stitches as I have already directed for the 2nd. 4 Sc. on the stem completes this beautiful leaf.

STEM.-10 Ch.

LARGE FLOWER.-15 Ch., work back, 1 slip, 1 Sc., 2 Dc. in one chain, 8 Tc., 1 Dc., 1 Sc., 1 slip; 1 Ch. Turn the work on the wrong side. 5 Ch. for bar, join to the eighth of opposite side; turn on the right side; slip on 5 Ch., 8 Ch.; turn on the wrong side. 9 Ch., slip-stitch on the 3rd of the 5, 9 Ch., join to point of the opposite side, turn back. Sc. on the 18 Ch., missing the slip-stitch in the centre. Work down the 15 chain, as the first 15 were done; but to give the graceful form to the flower the 7th and 9th stitches must be contracted; thus

(Work a Tc. stitch until you have only two loops on the needle, and, without finishing it, work the next stitch, drawing the cotton through THREE loops at once at last; thus, whilst you have worked two stitches on the chain, you have worked but one edge. Work the remainder as usual, and finish with a slip-stitch.)

10 Sc. on Ch. Repeat ROSE LEAF, 8 Sc. on Ch.

SMALL ROSE LEAF.-16 Ch., slip 1, +2 Ch., Dc. on 3rd, + twice,

→ 8 Ch., slip 1, 2 Ch., Dc. on 3rd, 2 Ch., Dc. on 3rd, ✪ repeat. Dc. in 9th of the 16. 2 Ch., miss 2. Sc. in 6th, slip in 5th, leaving 4 for the stem. Work round these veinings like the first, third, and fourth of the large leaf, and finish the sprig with 6 Sc. on the stalk.

No. 3.-SPRIG.

[Same materials.]

30 Ch., 24 Sc. on Ch., leaving 5 Ch. for the stem. On the other side of the chain work 4 Sc., 10 Dc., 7 Tc., 1 Dc., 1 Sc., 1 slip. Turn the work on the wrong side, + 9 Ch., miss 4, Sc. through 5th, + 3 times, 7 Ch., miss 3, Sc. through 4th; 5 Ch., slip-stitch through the 1st of the leaf. Turn the work on the right side, and work the five loops in Sc., working only the chain-stitches; then slip-stitch along the other edge of the leaf, which completes it.

24 Ch. for stem.

FLOWER.-28 Ch.; form into a loop and work round in Sc.; 9 Ch., fasten with a slip-stitch in the centre of the circle (A), slip round to (6), 4 Ch., slip in 5th of 9, 4 Ch., join to the quarter of the round at (c), turn on the wrong side, and slip to stem, +7 Ch., miss 3, Dc. through 4th, + 6 times; 7 Ch., miss 3, slip through the stem, and work round in Sc., missing every Dc. stitch.

8 Sc. on stem.

CLOSE LEAF.-12 Ch., 11 slip, on each side of which work 1 Sc., 2 Dc., 5 Tc., 2 Dc., 1 Sc., with 1 slip at the point.

+8.Sc. on stem, LEAF, + repeat, and work 5 Sc. on the 5 chain to complete it.

In reversing this pattern, make 5 Ch. for stem, then three leaves with 8 Ch. after each, the flower, and 24 Sc. on the three-times-eight chain-stitches. A little thought will be required for the large leaf, which may be worked thus :-LARGE LEAF REVERSED, 25 Ch., 24 slip on ditto; on the upper edge work Sc. ; on the lower 1 slip, 1 Sc., 1 Dc., 7 Tc., 10 Dc., 3 Sc., 1 slip. Turn the work on the wrong side, 5 Ch., miss 3, Sc. through 4th, 7 Ch., miss 3, Sc. through 4th, +9 Ch., miss 4, Sc. through 5th, +3 times, taking the last stitch through the point of the leaf; turn on the right side, and work in Sc.

No. 4.-SPRIG.

[Evans's Boar's-Head Cotton.-No. 45.]

This sprig is done in three pieces. The two heavy parts, which form nearly the entire edge (marked respectively twenty and fourteen), are done first, and in working the flower they are to be fastened on in their proper places. I must therefore begin with directions for making these. 1st PIECE.-20 Ch., miss 1, 1 Dc. and Tc. in the 2nd, 3 Tc. in 3rd,

2 Tc. in 4th, 5th, 6th, 7th, 8th, Tc. the remainder, and draw the thread through the last loop to fasten off.

2nd PIECE.-34 Ch., miss 20, Tc. 2, then + 2 Tc. in 1 Ch., + 8 times. 3 Tc. in 1, 1 Tc., 1 Dc. in 10 slip; on the other side of the chain, 6 Ch., 1 Sc., 4 Dc. on chain, 2 Dc., 1 Sc., 2 slip on the 1st chain. 8 chain. 1 Sc., 6 Dc. on chain, 2 Dc., 1 Sc. on 1st Ch., slip-stitch to the end, fasten off.

LARGE FLOWER (beginning with the calyx).—12 Ch., miss 5, Dc. on 6th, 2 Ch., Dc. on 3rd, 2 Ch., slip on 3rd. Up one side of the calyx, 1 slip, 2 Sc., 4 Dc., 1 Sc., 1 slip. 30 Ch., join to the calyx, missing 1, and make the cross bars, thus :-Bar 3 Ch., join with slip-stitch in 3rd of 30 Ch. 4 slip on 30, bar 7 Ch., join to last but 4 of 30. 4 slip up 30, bar 7 Ch., join at the 4th from the last bar. You have thus three bars in one direction, which must be crossed by three bars in the contrary direction, catching up the first three where they happen to cross. Work round the 30 thus:-1 slip, 2 Sc., De. all the rest but three. 2 Sc., 1 slip. Turn on the wrong side. 16 Ch., miss 3, slip on 4th, +* 4 slip on last of chain, 16 Ch., miss 4, slip on 5th, + 5 times, 4 slip on the last chain, 12 Ch., miss 3, slip on calyx. Turn on the right side, and work two loops in Sc.

3rd Loop.-4 Sc., 2 Dc., 8 Ch. SMALL CLOSE LEAF, as in Sprig 1st, but with 8 chain instead of 12. 8 chain for stem. 14 Ch., form into a loop, and work round to the centre, 1 slip, 1 Sc., 3 Dc., 1 Sc., 1 slip. SMALL CLOSE LEAF, then the remainder of the loop, as before. 8 slip on chain. SMALL CLOSE LEAF Opposite the 1st; 8 slip on chain, then finish the loop of the flower with 3 Dc., 3 Sc.

4th Loop.-3 Sc., 1 Dc., then with the next 3 Dc., join the short pieces of work first done, 2 Dc., 3 Sc.

5th.-3 Sc., 3 Dc., join the second separate piece, taking care to place it in the proper position, with 3 Dc. stitches, 3 Sc.

6th and 7th Loops.-Sc., then the side of the calyx. 1 slip, 1 Sc., 4 Dc., 2 Sc., 1 slip, which completes the flower.

16 Ch., work back. 1Sc., + 2 Dc. in one chain, + 4 times, 1 Dc., 9 chain. 1 Sc. in chain, 6 Dc. (contracting every alternate, as in Sprig 2), 1 De., 1 Tc., in the next chain of the 16, 1 Dc. in next, 1 Sc. in next, 1 slip; slip back on the last three stitches; 6 Ch., work back, 1 slip, 1 Sc., 8 Dc. (contracted), the last will come on the 16 chain, 2 Sc., 1 slip, leaving 2 chain for the stem. 8 chain.

SHAMROCK.-21 Ch., join in 7th for a loop, and slip back 4 on the last 4; 11 chain, join to the stitch which made the loop, slip back 4 as before; 11 Ch.; join at the loop, and work round the trefoil in Sc., 6 Sc. on stem.

* In the engraving there are 20 chain marked, i. e. 4 slip on chain and 16 separate.

14 Ch. for stem; SMALL CLOSE LEAF (as in No. 1), 6 Ch., for stem. DOUBLE LEAF.-14 Ch., miss 1, 1 Sc., 3 Dc., slip back on the last 3, and make 6 more chain; altogether the 20 marked-work 1 Sc., 4 Dc., 8 Tc., 2 Dc., 2 Sc., 2 slip.

6 Ch. for stem. SMALL CLOSE LEAF of 8 Ch.

FLOWER.-21 Ch., miss 7, Long Tc. in 8th, +2 Ch., Long Tc. in 3rd, + twice; 2 Ch., Dc. in 3rd, 2 Ch., slip in 3rd; work round in Sc., with a slip-stich first and last; 17 Ch., Sc. in top Long Tc. bar; 12 Ch., join with Sc. to the other end of the same Tc. bar; 17 Ch., join at the stem; work two loops, and 8 stitches of the 3rd in Sc., 8 Ch., 3 SMALL CLOSE LEAVES of 10 chain each, 8 Sc. on chain, and complete the loop.

SMALL CLOSE LEAF.-10 Sc. on the main stem, and a small close leaf of 12 chain; 10 Sc. on the chain, and repeat the SHAMROCK; Sc. on the stem, to the flower.

Complicated as this may appear, it is really very easy to work, especially if you keep a drawing of it before you whilst doing so. You may easily do this by drawing it on tracing paper, and putting the figures in their proper places, and you will be astonished to find how much it assists you. This sprig forms a beautiful edging for either a Bertha or a Veil.

To make up Honiton Lace, use the best Brussels net; cut out the article to be made, and tack it on coloured papers, then arrange the sprigs according to fancy; and finish the border with a pearl edging.

In fitting up a work-box for general use, the following articles are indispensable:

A set of crochet hooks-namely, Nos. 12, 15, 18, 21, and 24, Boulton's tapered indented hooks.

Four netting needles.

Four sizes of knitting needles.

A dozen assorted reels of Evans's Boar's Head Cotton; 6 reels of Mecklenburgh Thread; a dozen of Evans's Royal Embroidery Cotton; a dozen of various coloured silks; two stilettoes, a fine and a coarse; three pairs of scissors; bodkins, tapes, buttons, hooks and eyes, and a thimble. Those ladies who work much with coloured silks, should have an ivory thimble, as well as a silver one.

By an error of the printer, I was made to say, "It is always better to buy the designs worked on the material." It should have been marked on the material.

A glance at our circular in "THE GOVERNESS ADVERTISER" will show the facilities we are giving to ladies to perfect themselves in decorative work.

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