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"I'll carry it all right," said he.

As they rounded a sudden corner He drew a long forked stick from they came upon two figures standing the faggot heap, and fashioned it into a by a gate. Tamsine at once slowed crook as he walked; on this he slung down, but David, still singing, jerked the kettle, carrying it over his shoulder her elbow so that she only identified and swinging the basket in his other them as man and woman. hand.

" "The sailor's wife the sailor's star The afternoon sun was scorching in shall be," carolled David lustily, as he its heat, and he set his hat a little side- waltzed round with Tamsine. ways on his head to ward off the glare. "Well," cried a loud voice, which He whistled as he walked, but Tam- Tamsine instantly recognized as Sam's, sine, following him, was conscious of “well, I'm just about disgusted! That a sudden sinking of the heart; there my sister should make such a mountwas something wild and rakish in his ebank of herself!" aspect which filled her with dim fore- “Not mountebanks,” said his combodings. Tamsine came of a line of panion--and as Tamsine was hurried peaceable, law-abiding, thoroughly "re- past she had a vision of Martha's pale spectable” folk, and she had no inclina- face and glowing eyes—"they're giption that was not in accordance with sies, that's what they are! Look at the traditions of her race. The the man! 'Tis a gipsy from head to thought struck her as she paced just foot." one step behind the careless, almost "Well, a gipsy's is a merry life," refantastic, figure, that if she were to torted David carelessly over his meet one of her kinsfolk now she shoulder. "Come on, love." would feel ashamed; but immediately He dragged Tamsine along with her faithful heart reproached her; she good-humored force, and she was glad crimsoned with shame, not on her hus- to find herself out of sight of Sam's anband's account, but for her own mo- gry, contemptuous face and those fumentary want of loyalty. Quickening rious eyes of Martha's. her pace she passed her arm through "Oh,” she panted, obliging him to bis, and he, smiling down at her, ex- pause at length, "I do wish we hadn't changed his whistling for song.

a-met them! That woman do fair “The sailor's wife the sailor's star shall

bate me, David-an' I do feel hurt to be.

think she's turned Sam again me as

she've a-done." Yo ho! we go across the sea."

“Now, don't you let them spoil our He almost danced as he walked, outing," said David. “Put the thought and by-and-by Tamsine, infected by his o' them out o' your mind--that's what light-heartedness, and also as a kind of I do do—I do never think of anything atonement for her own passing inclin- what hurts. Come, cheer up! Here's ation to criticize his doings, fell into you an' me same as we were before, step with him, and they skipped along an' the blue sky an' the lark a-singin'." the road like children escaping from But Tamsine, though she endeavored school, the crockery rattling inside to obey, could not efface the memory the basket in time to their movements, of Martha's scornful look and the gibe and the kettle hammering the which she had flung at them. stick.

“Gipsies! Look at the man!" The Times.

(To be continued.)

on

THE SEAMY SIDE OF TRAVEL.

In the man or woman of middle age themselves whilst a hideous jinn supat the present day there are usually plies the motive power underneath the two personalities at war within the carpet, and is seen carrying them from same brain when it is a question of one European capital to another-an leaving one's home surroundings to see intelligent anticipation, perhaps, of the the world beyond it. One half may be perfected airship. still enthusiastic in its appreciation of So much for romance; but those who scenery, of architecture, of strange or stop to think and who “have been there new peoples, of historical scenes, world before,” know that there is no magic wonders, or great achievements in art carpet as yet provided by any tourist and industry. The other half charges agency which enables any but an alert the mere bother of déplaоement to a and watchful, pusbful tourist to travel debit account to begin with, and gen- in safety, or without discomfort, from erally is disposed to resent with in- London to Paris, or Paris to London: creasing emphasis the unnecessary dis- to say nothing of longer journeys. Incomforts and risks of travel.

We are

deed, in some ways these tourist agenthe more captious, perhaps, because in cies have either become too specialized the age in which we live the numerous in the matter of yacht cruises and winpersons who do travel with camera and ter sports, or too old, prosperous and notebook, and who make cinemato- unenterprising to attack any longer graph and phonograph records to illus- the hydra-headed tyrants of railway ditrate their lectures, and collections to rectorates, Customs control, steamshipenrich our museums, public and pri- management, hackney-carriage or hotel vate, enable many of us to travel with owners. our minds, without the expense and Perhaps the most glaring instance of the discomfort of leaving our own fire- their indifference, or their powerlesssides or shaded gardens.

ness, one of the most startling anachYet, except to those who are inca- ronisms of the twentieth century, pacitated by bodily ailments, mental or lies in the management of the South monetary limitations, travel is even Eastern Railway. If I may seem to more interesting and more profitable approach this and other grave subjects than it has ever been, and in some re- with a certain naïveté, it should be spects safer and more comfortable. premised that it is only of late years But inasmuch as it might be made that I have had the opportunity to con(especially where British agencies are sider things nearer home than Africa, concerned) so much more comfortable that my departures to and arrivals less risky, and less expensive than it from Africa were usually connected with is, this article has been conceived and Liverpool or Plymouth, and that if I written, not without some thought of came or went by way of Paris, it was private revenge in addition to its altru- invariably by the no-longer-independistic humanitarianism.

ent Chatham and Dover Railway ComThere is scarcely a railway station pany, or by the Brighton and South above or below ground in the United Coast. In fact, fate so willed it that Kingdom without a poster which it was not till the opening of the presspreads before us the Magic Carpet of ent year of grace that I had the unthe Arabian Nights. On this, happy forgettable experience of arriving at looking men and women have stationed Charing Cross Station from the Conti

sur

nent with luggage to be passed through wanted their luggage straight away to the Customs. In this recent expe- catch trains for the north, several felrience (preceded by a departure from low-passengers with broken limbs (the Charing Cross for Germany in which I result of Alpine sports) were fulfilled all that was required of me, rounded by bevies of pitying relations but my luggage nevertheless was in- and hospital nurses; engines were correctly labelled and went wildly screaming to drown the human clamor, astray) I have realized more fully than or letting off steam, which temporarily before what it means to land at Dover eclipsed all clear vision: in short, it late on a wintry afternoon, with the was an indescribable babel of noise temperature below freezing point, fresh and misery, and the Customs officials from all the luxuries now to be found being. as they always are, true genin Continental railway travel, includ- tlemen, simply scrabbled a passport ing carefully warmed railway car- on all pieces of luggage they could see riages, and to travel for two hours up and left the passengers and their porto London in an unwarmed first-class ters to help themselves. I selected my compartment. And then, to realize for own quite honestly, of course, but there the first time that although Charing seemed to be no question of my regisCross has been the principal terminus tered receipt, though I did my best to of our Continental traffic for something force it on the porter that helped me. like forty years, it is actually without Now, surely, this is unworthy of the any special accommodation for the

principal railway route to and from work of Customs examination (unless, the Continent, at the principal contiof course, such buildings were de- nental-traffic station of the capital of stroyed at the time the roof fell in, the British Empire, in the year 1911? and have not been replaced). On the At Victoria Station, both of the occasion of my recent personal expe- Brighton Railway and of what was rience, the luggage from all parts of once the Chatham and Dover, there is the Continent, possibly even from In- a spacious enclosed room of very large dia as well, was shot out on to one of size in which all the luggage is ranged the platforms, and left there, higgledy- on benches, and, if I remember rightly, piggledy. Here the mob of passen- is placed either according to its label gers, to which had been added a mob number or the first initial of the ownof porters armed with iron-mounted ers' name on the label. You enter barrows which they drove into one's these places without rush or scrimlegs, had to pick out from memory its mage, you identify and claim your lugvarious items of luggage, get them gage without difficulty, and if it has somehow or other clawed together, and got to be opened it is opened under then in its utter despair plead with comfortable conditions. H.M. Customs to take for granted that Then, if you are so satisfied with the its declaration of no dutiable goods two Victorias, why travel to and from was a true one. For what would have thie Continent in connection with any happened on this last occasion (Jan- other station?" uary 31, 1911) if the Customs had But the Brighton Victoria involves insisted

any opening of the the Dieppe route, of which more anon; luggage, I tremble to think. An and as regards the South Eastern, the icy wind was blowing in through continental trains connected with Victhe great open funnel of the sta- toria are either too expensive with tion, two defeated football teams their supplementary charges, for the had arrived from France, and tourist who is not actually a rich per

on

son; or they depart or arrive at incon- vertised speed-nineteen to twenty-two venient hours. The plain fact remains miles an hour-does not come up to the that Charing Cross is connected with speed of the steamers plying between the most-commonly-used section of the Denmark and Germany, Denmark and direct traffic with the Continent; and Sweden, or similar short-journey steamCharing Cross remains to this day as ers between Hamburg and the Dutch utterly unequipped for dealing with the

coast.

But the principal trains beluggage on arriving, as it was appar- tween Charing Cross and the Contiently forty-five years ago.

nent are not in my experience) often There is no doubt that the absence served by any one of these advertised of any proper shelter and refreshment steamers, but by the Pas-de-Calais, a rooms at Dover Pier is a disgrace to French boat, which I should think the British nation. Why cannot Do- scarcely did more than seventeen knots ver be as well equipped as Calais ? an hour, and which is certainly not the What is the use of putting forward the last word in comfort and conveniences, fact (which may not be a fact) that but about dated in that respect "1880." you are never detained at the quay, I never remember to have crossed the and that somewhere up in the town of Channel in any boat connected with Dover there is a railway station which the South Eastern trains which seemed has got decent waiting-rooms and a re- to me in comfort and speed worthy of freshment department? Seeing that the position in the world of the United the boat trains never stop at such a Kingdom. I am aware that added station, the existence of its alleged comforts can be had for extra paycomforts has no bearing on the ques- ments ranging from 11. to 121. (for a tion.

journey which ought to take no longer Folkstone is a little, but not much, than an hour), but this is only part and better. But some mystery, some slur, parcel of the general policy of the conwhich I have never been able to un- tinental traffic of this line, which derstand, seems to lie on the Folke- makes it more and more difficult for stone-Boulogne route; by which I have people of modest means (as are most once or twice travelled (with, if I re- travellers) to avail themselves commember rightly, great unpunctuality). fortably of the shortest sea route. The Far and away the main bulk of passen- one thing, however, rich people cannot gers travelling between London and buy on these Channel steamers, is the the Continent go by way of Dover and right to leave them comfortably; no Calais.

matter how great, rich or distinguished Now: as to the crossing of the Chan- you are, you must take part with pernel at its narrowest part-Dover to haps 100 fellow-passengers in strugCalais. This is constantly advertised gling to leave the ship by a steep gangas being achieved in a few minutes way which admits one person at a over the hour. On the smoothest day time. As most of the persons who in my own experiences, it never takes leave carry two or three articles of less than an hour and a half, and it luggage, the scrimmage inflicts many would be interesting to learn how often bruises and scratches. The reason the trains connected with it at Dover why this shoving and excitement takes leave for London at the advertised place is in order to secure comfortable time. The railway that controls this seats in the waiting train. route advertises with a flourish of On most of the big expresses abroad, trumpets the splendid steamers which at any rate during the seasons when meet the trains, though even their ad- there is much traffic, every seat in the

first and second class is numbered, and again, the accommodation and the arpassengers wishing to make sure of a rangements at the St. Lazare for the seat in the train must apply before. Customs examinations are far less hand with their tickets for a number. pleasant and convenient than they are In many ways this in an excellent sys- at the Northern station. tem and might be (perhaps is) adopted Why cannot all railway companies by the Brighton line in connection with throughout the civilized world follow its continental traffic from Dieppe. But the example of Germany, and arrange I think it unfair that the railway com- that passengers on arrival shall be panies and the tourist agencies should handed a metal ticket with the number make the charge they do for booking of a cab or motor, which is unchangethese seats. The mere taking of a ably assigned to them and must wait ticket for a specified date should entiile for them till their luggage is ready to one to a specified seat in a particular leave the station? Such a convenience train. However, if the system of in Germany greatly assists nervous and numbered seats could be adopted right fidgety people At most of the London through between London and the railway termini at the present day it Continent, if on landing at Dover or is almost due to a personal favor on Newhaven you knew your seat was the part of the porter that one sucinevitably allotted to you, there would ceeds in getting a motor-cab at all. be no need for this pushing and el- Marseilles is a most ill-equipped port bowing along a narrow passage to get in this respect. There are plenty of first to the train.

motor-cabs in the town, but they are, It is some years since I made use I am told, “afraid" to approach the of the Brighton line for reaching Paris. quays where the steamers disembark I used at one time to travel frequently their passengers, and such passengers by this way, and liked it. But I landing at Marseilles from various changed my mind a few years ago, as parts of the world, though they may in certain ways I did not find the Chan- by telegraphing beforehand get an omnel steamers comfortable,' and, above nibus from the station (but this is an all, after landing at Dieppe it was dif- appeal not infrequently ignored), can ficult to keep one's seat in the train only get away from the waterside to except by sitting in it, and as this the inconveniently-placed railway staprecluded the whiling away of an tion in the most tumble-down, miserhour's waiting by taking refreshments able little victorias to be found anyor walking about, it made the journey , where, with dirty, shabby cushions, and tedious. Again: the St. Lazare term- no capacity for carrying luggage_carinus at Paris of the State Western riages that are wrenched from side to Railways is, or was, badly supplied side in the tramlines, and which imwith cabs. I have several times ar- pose a cruel strain on their poor little rived there and had to wait half an horses in climbing up five hundred feet hour whilst a cab was being specially to the station. Why was the great fetched from outside the station. Then terminus at Marseilles apparently

placed without any regard to the fact 11 am since assured by a great Tourist Agency that the points I complained of have that Marseilles is one of the greatest been completely remedied. If the Etat-Ouest would wake up a little. the Dieppe route to seaports in the world—a seaport as imParis should become the favorite one, but the

portant to the United Kingdom as much State mismanagement of the Western Railway is becoming a serious concern to the

as to France, for it has become really friends and lovers of France. I am told by one who ought to know that the cause of the the outpost of Great Britain on the numerous accidents and the great uppunctuality is an unwise economy in upkeep.

Mediterranean? There is this preten

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