THE FALKLAND ISLANDS

By W. E. L.

THE Falkland Islands are the southernmost inhabited dependency of Great Britain, lying in the South Atlantic between 51° and 53° south latitude and between 57° and 62° west longitude. They are 480 miles north-east of Cape Horn, and about 1000 miles due south of Monte Video.

The credit of their discovery rests with John Davis, the Arctic explorer, who gave his name to the Strait between Greenland and the mainland of North America. In the year 1591 he, with Thomas Cavendish, attempted to find a new route to Asia by the Strait of Magellan. Differences arising, however, between the two leaders, who had little in common, one being an explorer, the other more or less a freebooter, they parted company off the coast of Patagonia. Davis being driven out of his course by stormy weather found himself, on August 14, 1592, amongst a group of unknown islands, "lying fifty leagues or better from the east shore and northerly from the Strait."

Two years later, in 1594, Richard Hawkins sailed round the islands, and to honour his queen and also himself, called them "Hawkins' Maiden Land." Sebald de Veert, the Dutch navigator, sighting them between the years 1598 to 1600, gave them the name of Sebald's Isles; from which they have often been called the Sebaldines.

In 1690 Captain Strong named the passage between the two large islands Falkland Channel, the name Falkland afterwards being given to the islands themselves.

In 1748 the British Government wishing to acquire a station in the South Atlantic, was about to send out an expedition to explore and report on the islands; but desisted owing to the renionstrance of the Government of Spain, who did not like the idea of a British station so near their South American colonies.

The first European settlement in the islands was a colony of French families, comprising some who left Canada on the British occupation, and others from France. These under the leadership of Bougainville, in 1764, established themselves on Berkeley Sound, in East Falkland, and founded the settlement of Port Louis. In 1766, however, they were bought out by the Spaniards, who renamed the settlement Port Solidad.

Previously to this, in 1764, the British Government had sent out Captain Byron to take possession of West Falkland for his Majesty King George the Third. In January 1765 he landed at an inlet on the west coast of the island, and called it Port Egmont, after the then First Lord of the Admiralty-the Earl of Egmont. During the next year a blockhouse was built, and a small garrison placed there.

In June 1770, however, we were compelled to evacuate the island by a force sent by the Governor of Buenos Ayres. Diplomatic negotiations ensuing, in January 1771 Spain agreed to restore Port Egmont, on the condition that such restitution should not affect the question of prior right of sovereignty over the islands. This was agreed to by the British Government, but in May 1774 the settlement was abandoned, a plate being left bearing a declaration that the islands were British property.

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After fifty years of neglect the Republic of Buenos Ayres took possession of the islands in 1820, granting East Falkland to Don Louis Vernet in 1826, who formed a settlement at Port Louis.

In 1831, trouble arising with the United States through Vernet having seized some of their vessels, and a United States force being sent to destroy his settlement, the British Governinent resolved to revive their claims. On the 20th of December 1832, therefore, a man-of-war reached Port Egmont, the fort was repaired, and the British flag hoisted. In East Falkland a small detachment of soldiers from Buenos Ayres surrendered to the British commander, and in spite of protests from their Government the islands passed finally under British sovereignty.

The group consists of two large islands-the East Falkland, with an area of 3000 square miles, and the West Falkland, with an area of 2300 square milesand over one hundred small islands, with an aggregate area of 1000 square miles; the two large islands being divided from each other by Falkland Sound, a passage about 45 miles long, and in width varying from 2 to 18 miles.

The coast-line lies low, is much indented, affording numerous good harbours, and generally has a fringe of small islets. East Falkland is nearly bisected by two arms of the sea-Choiseul Sound on the cast and Grantham Sound on the west, the isthmus between being only four to five miles wide.

Though there is a quantity of low-lying bog-land, especially in the East Falkland, the land surface generally is wild and rugged, in some parts even mountainous, Mount Usborne, 2245 feet, being the highest point in East Falkland, and Mount Adam. in West Falkland. having an altitude of 2300 feet.

The islands possess one natural curiosity in the "stone rivers," long lines of stony débris that, without

the aid of water or other motive power, gradually descend to lower levels.

The climate on the whole resembles that of the north-west of Scotland. It is never excessively cold, the thermometer seldom falling below 30°, but cold and high winds prevail, especially in the daytime in the summer months, and generally from the west. The summer range of temperature is 40° to 65°, the winter range 30° to 50°. The annual rainfall is 28.80 inches, the winters being misty and rainy; the summer atmosphere, however, is remarkably dry.

The soil is not favourable to the cultivation of fruit or vegetables, being too damp and cold; celery, scurvy-grass and sorrel, however, are found wild. The tussock-grass, which grows in clumps to a height of six or seven feet and forms a fattening food for cattle, has now disappeared from the larger islands, but still abounds on the sinaller ones. No trees, and but few shrubs exist. In November and December the ground is covered by a variety of sweet-scented flowers.

The only indigenous animal is a species of fox; sheep, cattle, and horses, however, have been introduced. Penguins and other sea-fowl are plentiful, and fish, especially cod, are abundant.

The population of the islands was, in 1898, 1753 persons, nearly all of whom were of European extraction, and a great proportion Scotch. For the same year the number of births was 64, that is at the rate of 36 per thousand, and the number of deaths 27, the rate being 15.4 per thousand; this, however, is abnormally high owing to the inclusion of ten lives lost in a boating accident. Many of the colonists' sons emigrate to Patagonia, the existing population in the islands being more than enough to supply the local demand for labour.

Stanley (formerly called Port William), the only town and seat of government, with a population of

789 persons, is situated in the north-east of East Falkland. It possesses a large, safe, and accessible harbour, three miles long by one-third of a mile wide, and is a port of registry, having in December 1896, five vessels of a total tonnage of 236 tons. It took the name of Stanley from Lord Derby, the Secretary of State in 1844, when the seat of government was transferred to it from Port Louis on Berkeley Sound. The former capital was found to be too exposed. The harbour is of great value as a coaling and refitting station for vessels going round Cape Horn. During 1898, thirty-three steam-ships and thirteen sailing ships entered, having a total tonnage of 62,131 tons; this year is remarkable for being the first for many years that no ship put in to Port Stanley for repair or in distress.

The town consists mostly of square whitewashed grey-slated buildings, the general aspect resembling many of the towns in the Western Highlands of Scotland. The Government House looks like an Orkney or Shetland manse. The most imposing building in the town is the barracks, generally occupied by a company of marines. A small Episcopal church stands in the midst of the town.

Attached to many of the houses are small greenhouses, gay with fuchsias and pelargoniums, forming a pleasing contrast to the general barrenness of the place.

In the town are two mixed government schools, one for infants and one for older children. The former has 75 pupils and an average attendance of 50; the latter 81 pupils and an average attendance of 56. There is also a Roman Catholic school, with 61 pupils and an average attendance of 51; and a Baptist school; both receiving State aid.

In West Falkland the government supports two itinerant schoolmasters, who travel from house to house,