CHAPTER IV.

ON entering that part of modern France, so well known by the appellation of the Netherlands, the glorious scene of human prosperity, and of rural happiness and plenty, which opened before our delighted eyes, was a true feast to the mind. Flanders had long enjoyed a liberal portion of rational liberty : its independence, sanctioned and guaranteed by so many imperial sovereigns, had, until the reign of the visionary despot, Joseph II. given it all the just fruits of liberty, peace, abundance, and security. Our way to Cassel lay through a most rich, finely-cultivated, and beautiful tract of land. No longer fields, as in the garden-like country of England, but plains of golden harvest stretched around. As we approached St. Omer's,

the difference between two very distinct races of men grew perceptible; and after passing it, the gradation from French to Flemish was quickly lost in the latter. A larger bodily form, a manifest deficiency in grace, less intellect, but more plain sense-the dress inelegant and cum brous, marked the Flemings. As yet I had seen but little of the French; but already their gracefulness, politeness, and the general elegance of their forms, had prepossessed me in their favour. There was an antique homeliness, however, in the Flem-ings, extremely respectable, and not destitute of interest. The traces of their ancient independence were legible every where. Their very stature, and the size of their cattle and domestic animals, seemed, under the fostering and protecting hand of liberty, to have amplified, and nature, no longer stinted, to have pushed to their just dimensions, the forms of rational and animal beings. My heart expanded at the consciousness that some of

my

fellow-creatures had been, and were yet, comparatively speaking, happy and unmolested by the galling hand of arbitrary power. The noble scene of universal plenty and con-

tent, which presented itself, produced a thousand pleasing sensations. I entered, in imagination, their dwellings, which, as we passed along, appeared, with very few exceptions, neat, good, and comfortable. The people looked happy. I could fancy the comfort and pleasure of the domestic circle; the good wife and affectionate mother, the ornament and blessing of her family, the happy father and husband, and the pleased and well brought up youths surrounding them.

I regretted much that we passed so rapidly through this fine country; but Mr. Fox was pressed for time, and without deducting too much for what he had appropriated to give to Paris, we could not delay. The impression made on my mind, however, was very strong; and I imbibed, as I passed on, the great practical lesson, that good government, which implies sufficient liberty to man, is best evinced by its results; and that a happy, flourishing, and independent yeomanry, without the grating extremes of an arrogant, and superabounding aristocracy, or of am iserable

and starving peasantry, is the most gratifying sight for a lover of his fellow-creatures, of social order in its true sense, and for a believer in that sacred religion which enjoins mercy, charity, and moderation—a lesson as imperious and requiring to be followed by the government and crowned heads, as by the people. As we passed along, I observed that Mr. Fox had lately made himself master of the theory and practice of Agriculture, more than I had been aware of, and his observations were equally pertinent and strong upon those subjects. His mind was, perhaps, never in greater vigour. He was relieved from the eternal and ineffectual clamour of political warfare: equally at his ease, abroad as at home, and conversant with most foreign modern languages, this great man was now soaring forth on the continent, in the meridian of his glory, where his genius, and his public virtues, were well understood and much respected. The small society he carried with him sufficed to make him happy, and his happiness was increased by having contributed to theirs. We brought in

the coach with us some of Fielding's novels, and I was the common reader.

As we advanced in the Netherlands, smoking was observed to be more prevalent, and the effect to me at least, was far more ludicrous than picturesque, on beholding boys, of fourteen or fifteen, with cocked hats, sitting under trees smoking. A number of pretty and new country houses, a la mode Angloise, appeared rising up here and there. Still, until we got nearer Cassel, a good deal of French manner was perceptible. As it was Sunday we saw great numbers of the people, who appeared to enjoy themselves very much, and divided into small happy parties amidst the hay, on the road side, at their doors, or in their gardens. I observed with pleasure, how fond all were of flowers, persons of every age wearing them in their breast, or in their hats or caps. Sunday was not rigorously observed, after prayers were over for the day, as we saw some people working, driving carts, &c. I had observed that the church at Calais was thinly attended; but at