fia, in the quality of Field-Marshall, was the only general officer left at Wiburgh, to command the Ruffian army in the abfence of General La..

GRETNA GREEN.

HA AVING quitted the more immediate environs of Carlifle, we have, for fome time, been traverfing an infipid extent of flat country, of a black boggy foil, with here and there a corn-field; but undiverfified with wood, or human dwellings, till we catch fight of the great fir-plantations, and fcattered farms of the late Dr Graham, around Netherby, and in the neighbourhood of Longtown. Thefe, together with that town, which we have just left behind us, built upon his eftate, and chiefly under his aufpices, bear teftimony to that vigorous fpirit of improvement, for which that gentleman was celebrated. We should have been much gratified, had our time allowed us to vifit every corner of that vait tract, fo lately a barren wafte, naw drained, inclofed, and divided by its late refpectable proprietor, into fome hundreds of farms, with each its houfe, and every appendage requifite for the comfortable maintenance of his tenantry, and for the cultivation of his ground; the whole, under enlightened infpection, daily advancing to profperity. At Longtown there is a charity-school for fixty children, a regular weekly market, and occafional fairs for the convenience of the tenantry of Netherby and its viciI might have mentioned too, its manufactory, of coarfe woolen cloths.

In a region of borderers, not many years ago characterifed by wild. nefs and barbarity, fuch cultivation

F

and establishments as thefe, the hap py means by which inftruction, mutual intercourfe, confidence, profit, and comfort, have been, in fo many refpects, confulted; not to mention a regular, active, and fummary adminiltration of justice, difpenfed, at the fmalleft coft, in the different manor-courts inftituted throughout the domain, have altogether wrought a wonderful change in the manners, habits and welfare of a numerous and increafing race of peafantry. When we confider the enlarged views, and multiplied operations, by which fo many focial benefits have been obtained, the tamephrafe of Dr Graham's improvements, as they are commonly ftiled, falls much below their merit. For the country itfelf, in a civil light, and the inhabitants, in their focial and moral ftate, may juftly be called the work of his hands."

Very foon after we cross the confines of this new creation, that dun, dreary bog, known by the name of Solway Mofs, comes, far and wide, upon the eye, and wearies patience itfelf with its irkfome and extenfive famenefs, till relief furprifes the traveller fcarcely fefs than the fugitive lover, in the fudden appearance of Gretna Green.

That which firft ftrikes the eye, is a fmall portion of the village, newly built, projecting forward on the brow of an elevated hill, and juft peeping out of the tufted groves, which envellop the reft in their fhades. There is fomething in the " coup "d'oeil" of this Paphian retreat,

now

now about a mile before us, fingular ly calculated to flatter the imagination, which adventurers, pofting hither in the cause of love, may be fuppofed to poffefs in no inferior degree. The advanced pofition of those introductory habitations, expreffes fuch an air of invitation and welcome to the woody afylum beyoud them, as I confefs, impreffed myfelf, a mere traveller, impatient of nothing but a difagreeable road, with very pleafing

ideas.

حرمية

Though fanguine anticipation is commonly obliged to make many abatements on clofing with its object, fewer were requifite on our arrival at Gretna-hall, (the name of our inn) than experience juftifies in fimilar cafes. Whether, in a moral view, the case of those fond beings, who defert the warm protection of their homes, and the wife rounfels of parental forefight, in their hafty facrifices at Hymen's Caledonian altar, may not too frequently verify the foregoing obfervation, must be left to their own feelings and confeffion. Suffice it to fay for ourselves, on the account of our inn at least, and the entertainment it afforded, both were excel lent. To a lawn of fome acres, bordered with lofty fir-trees, in front of our inn, formerly the manfion of a gentleman, the village of Gretna owes the additional appellation of "Green."

Whilft I am cafting a look over this celebrated fpot, with which are affociated the ideas of a thoufand love-adventures here brought to that crifis, which generally determines, for life, the happiness or misery of the parties engaged in them, I cannot help thinking, that fome of our fuperior novelifts would not be illemployed in poffefling themfelves of the leading characters and events, which have diftinguished the more remarkable of thefe rath connections. A judicious collection of materials from this abundant fource of action,

*-,,

the romance of real life, reprefented under fictitious names, and comprised in fhort tales, would furnish no contemptible fund of inftruction for young perfons in this age of liberty and adventrous experiment. It might tend alfo to bring to decifion, the true merits of that act of parliament, which many, perhaps unjustly, have con- ceived as owing its origin more to an aristocratic fpirit of jealoufy guarding its own advantages and diftinc-" tions, than to motives of public good.

The most recent adventure, occafioned by the restrictions of this law, was concluded at Gretna, not many weeks ago, and is still a fubject of converfation. I mean the elopement of Mifs Th with Captain BThis incident is too new at prefent, for the purpose here recomended. When time has mellowed it, the fubject will be interefting, and, well handled, may become pregnant with moral inftruction.

You will not be difpleafed with the ftory of two old gentlemen who, fome years ago, met at an inn on the North Road, the one in pursuit of his fon, the other of his daughter, both fome miles before them on the wing to Gretna Green. The two fathers equally averfe to the union of the young people, mutually vented their regrets and reproaches at this unexpected interview; each accufing the other of wanting that vigilance or authority over his own child, which might have prevented their thoughtlefs expedition. After fome time fpept in this unfeasonable altercation, they recollected, that, fince their own arrival, the lovers had proceeded fome miles in addition to thofe, which they had already advanced, before them. Each demanding a pot-chaife to continue the purfuit, the landlord informed them, that he had only one at their fervice. As time was equal, ly precious to both, our travellers agreed to fhare, the carriage betwist them. You will eifily imagine what agreeable

66

"agreeable companions" they were in a pott-chaife. Confiderations of economy however, and the opportunity of continuing their mutual reproaches, reconciled them to one car, riage for the rest of their journey. On they trundled for fome fucceffive pofts; ill humour, and high words increafing with every turn of their wheels. When they arrived at Longtown, their laft flation to Gretna Green, neither carriage nor horfes were to be procured. The lovers, two hours before, had engaged the only one in town, and meant to detain it for their return. The horfes, which had brought the old gentlemen to Longtown, had been, obliged to come the two laft pofts without ftopping, and were fo entirely jaded and fatigued, as to need both refreshment and reft before they could be driven on farther. The travellers fcarcely lefs exhausted, and compelled to continue fome time where they were, confented to make the beft ufe of it in recruiting their ftrength and fpirits by recourfe to the larder and a bottle of wine. The terious bufinefs of the moment diverted their thoughts from contumelious reflec, tions. In the interval of filence, which almoft neceffarily took place, whilft the organs of fpeech were engaged in maftication, they began, after a little calculation, to perceive, that it would be impoffible for them to overtake the young people before Vulcan had forged their hymeneal chain. The refreshment of food and wine had now fomewhat cheered their hearts; a better humour fucceeded to unavailing reproach; they coolly difcuffed the circumstances of the safe, and at last fhaking hands, concluded with a refolution of ftaying, where the were, to give their bleffing to the happy pair on their return. į

ISLE OF BUTE.

The ifle of Bute is divided into two parishes, Rothefay, and Kingarth;

in each of which were formerly feveral churches and chapels; three or four of them, at prefent, only remain. The most ancient of the churches of Kingarth was built at the fouth corner of the island, about the eleventh century. The ruins of it we might have feen, had our time admitted of it. This edifice was reared by the piety of St Blain.

Not far from St Blain's church, is ftill fhewn the devil's cauldron; which though vulgar tales, formerly current, of the evil fpirit's purgatorial parboiling of the bodies and fouls of departed finners, are too grofs for notice, is known to have been, in catholic times, a place of real penance for living ones. "This cauldron, fays Mr Blain, thirty feet in diameter, is formed by a wall of dry ftone, feven feet fix inches high, and ten feet in thickness, with an entrance from the east. It was a place of penance, as its name imports; fuch as Sir James Ware defcribes, in his antiquities of Ireland. Poor culprits were fometimes obliged to traverfe the top of the wall, on their bare knees, a certain number of times, according to their demerit; whilft their path was covered over with fharp ftones. At other times, a number of thefe unhappy people were made to fit days and nights together, on the floor, within the inclofure, diftreffed for want of food, and neceffitated to prevent each other from the comforts of fleep; for it was inculcated in them, by their ghostly fạthers, as an article of belief, that if they fuffered any of the company to flumber, before the time appointed for expiating their guilt, was at an end, hell and damnation would be the lot of the whole; and that they would be hurried from an earthly, to an infernal cauldron. The poor, infatuated people, in order to avoid eternal torments, fubmitted to prick one another with fharp inftruments, fo foon as the fmalleft difpofition to flumber, appeared to feize upon any of them. JOURNEY

Benedictine Convent, near Nicolafi, March 3. ON leaving Taormina, we croffed the river Acis, fo often the fubject of Greek and Latin poetry. Paffing it, we found ourselves at the foot of Etna. This mountain is divided in three regions, la Piedmontefe, or level; la Sylveftra, or woody; and la Deferta, or defolate. The perpendicular height of it, from the Medi terranean, is 10,958 feet: the afcent by roads about 25 miles, and the circumference at the bafis 160. It is impoffible for me to defcribe the pleafure we experienced in paffing through the firit of thefe regions; but, believe me, that callous is the heart which would not beat with joy among thefe happy fcenes, this variety of abundance. What a rich volume of natural religion they prefent! What an impreffion do they ftamp upon the feeling foul that adores the Divinity! As I gazed in rapture on every fide, I could not but exclaim with Milton: "Thefe are thy glorious works, Pa rent of good, Almighty !

grew dark, the latter part of the day was almoft as difagreeable as the for-mer had been pleafing the roads being bad, and often dangerous, as we had to cross many broad beds of fhattered lava, that has for ages rolled from the Crater of Etna to the fea. In this fituation we proceeded moft tediofly, relying entirely upon our mules; which, though fometimes obliged to leap up and down, or fep from one fragment of lava to another, never ftumbled. Their caution was, wonderful; for, in any great difficulty, they put their heads to the ground, and picked out the way with certainty. Thus we crept onward for four, instead of two hours, when our muleteer ftopped among a few mean cottages, and informed us of our arrival. We immediately inquired for the fervant; but, to our great furprife and difappointment, we were informed, that he was gone on to Casta. nie, a village two hours diftant. We were too cold, too weary, and too hungry (for we had fafted fince breakfaft) to follow him, and therefore alighted; but inftead of a comfortable. little inn, a doleful dwelling received us, in which, through clouds of thick fmoke, we dimly difcovered five or fix peafants, as rude in appearance as the Cyclops, their Etnean predeceffors, lying round a fire. Their forbidding aspect induced us to enquire for a feparate chamber, when we were conducted into a kind of barn, from which they agreed to remove all the firaw except what was neceffary for our beds, and to light a fire in the corner. Preferring even this accommodation to a longer journey, as our jaded mules had made an uncommon effort to reach this place, we thought to abide here the night, until on inquiring what provifion they had, we heard them too diftin&ly pronounce

the

the dreadful word none. We were now compelled to proceed; for, at the worst, we conceived it more agreeable to break our necks over the ragged lava, than to die of hunger: with these fentiments we remounted our unwilling cattle, and, after crawling on for two hours more, arrived at Caftanie; where, to complete the misfortunes of the night, we neither found our fervant, nor any other perfon, up, to receive us. We knocked and begged from door to door, but all in vain; fo that our fituation feemed defperate. To lie upon the bare earth was death, and yet this must follow, as our ftrength was infufficient to fupport us on our feet till the morning. At length we gave it over, knowing not what meafures to adopt; when fuddenly a door opened, and a light fhone upon us. My fenfation at the inftant is not to be defcribed, but I fuppofe it to be of the fame nature as that of a malefactor who receives his pardon at the place of execution. A charitable Sicilian took us in: made a good fire: fet before us bread, eggs, dried fruits, and excellent wine, and provided a good bed, in his granary.The next morning, having given him money, and a thoufand thanks, we mounted our mules, and afcended to the little village of Nicolofi." Tho' we had been repeatedly told that it was impoffible to reach the fummit of this tremendous mountain in winter, none having ever attempted it, yet fo infuperable was our defire of looking down its crater, that the expedition was refolved upon. We proposed it to feveral guides, but without fuccefs, until one, who could not refift the offer of three ounces (about a guinea and a half) agreed to conduct us thither. Nicolofi muft, (I should fuppofe) at every great eruption of Etna, be either overwhelmed by lava, or buried under showers of cinders, &c. It ftands on a part of the mountain where every thing has been

swept away by the repeated ravages of the volcano, and where nothing meets the eye but difmal afhes. Having procured beds at the convent, where I am now writing, which stands ftill higher than the village, and is apparently from its vicinity to danger intended as a memento mori for the fraternity, we fet out from Nicolofi at feven in the morning. Having travelled near four miles throughthefe chearless tracts furrounded with many hills, formed by eruptions, we entered a grove of the finest oak, beech, and fir, I ever faw; even there we found inhabitants, who earn a wretched fubfiftence by fupplying the inferior Region with wood and charooal. They live indeed in one of the most beautiful forest countries imaginable; but this is immediately under the volcano; however they are infenfible of the danger, and deaf to alarm.— Having paffed through thefe woods, we arrived at the borders of the last or defolate Region, where we left our mules, and began the afcent on foot, which we found extremely difficult, not only from its increased declivity, but from the fnow being frozen into a mafs of flippery ice; yet, what will not refolution and perfeverence effect! After frequent ftoppages to take breath, we perceived, to our great mortification, that our guide, though in appearance as ftrong as Polyphemus, the ancient tenant of the mountain, was weak and timid. He complained of hunger; to fatisfy which I gave him all the bread I had carried in my pocket; yet he ftill kept behind, which obliged us to incite, abufe, ridicule, threaten, and even to affift him in the afcent.When arrived within half a mile of the top, a fevere form of fleet, with a thick fog and extreme cold, fell upon us; however, determined not to abandon what feemed fo great an enterprize, we proceeded, and at length, after the moft inconceiveable difficulties, ftood upon the very fum