The Pantheon-Its Antiquity-Associations-Emotion on first behold- ing the Pantheon-Difficulty of expressing feelings of this nature— State of Preservation--Converted into a Christian Church-Its con- dition previously to this event-The Portico-The Interior-Dome -The Pantheon sacred in the History of Art-The Capitol-Its present condition-Feelings with which the Traveller approaches the Capitol-Ascent-Square-Equestrian Statue-Palace of the Con- servators-Protomoteca-Wolf of the Capitol-Hobhouse, Virgil, Cicero, and Byron quoted—Museo Capitolino—The Dying Gladiator -Byron's lines-Palace of the Senator-Remains of the Tabularium The Villas of Rome a striking Feature in the Magnificence of the City -The Splendour of these beautiful Residences-Natural Beauty- Treasures of Art-Admirable Position-Remarkable Views-Judi- cious Arrangement-Skilful Cultivation-Remarkable Objects of Art mentioned-View from the Belrespiro-From the Villa Mellini— From the Villa Ludovisi-Difficulty of describing these Views- Frequent Visits to these Villas-Their Appearance at noon- Singular Tranquillity of an Italian Landscape at that hour-Sunset in Italy-The Villa Borghese-Seen at evening-Impressions produced by such a sight not to be communicated.-Page 223-229. Noisy Preparations - Breakfast - Departure - Description of the Journey to Tivoli-Change in the Appearance of the Country at the 12th milestone-Mountain Scene-Interesting Objects on the Tibur- tine Way-Adrian's Villa-The Emperor's Object in the Construc- tion of this extraordinary Villa-The Principal Features in its original arrangement pointed out—Its unparalleled Magnificence— The Causes of its Ruin-Its present State-Entrance into Tivoli— The Sibilla-Difficulty of describing the Scenery of Tivoli-Partiality of Horace, Augustus, Mæcenas, and other distinguished personages for Tivoli The Objects which form the chief Attraction of this delightful spot-So well known that they do not need description— The Cataract at Terni compared with those of Tivoli-The Temple Moonlight Festival-A means of Fêting peculiar to the Climate of the South-Farewell Visit to St. Peter's-Appearance of this glorious Basilica by Moonlight-Emotions excited-Visit to the Vatican- Torchlight Excursion through the Halls of this Palace-Effect of this Illumination on the Statues-The Apollo-Wonderful Appear- ance of the Laocoon-The Ganymede-The Apollo Musagatus- Figure of Melpomene-Regret at leaving all those extraordinary Objects-The Fountains-Their agreeable and useful Nature— Abundance of Water in Rome-The Fountains of Paris, Versailles and St. Cloud, mentioned with reference to those of the Eternal City -The latter incomparably superior-The Climate of Rome suited to these delightful Objects-Their Appearance at Noon-At Evening -And by Moonlight-The Aqueducts of Rome Termination of our Festival by a Torchlight Tour and Picnic in the Coliseum.- The Morning of my Departure-The Appearance of the Country- Reflections-Rome and Florence-Superior interest and splendour of the former-Emotion at parting from Rome-Reminiscences— The Festivals-The Statues-The Paintings-The Pope-Love for Rome increased by my Sojourn therein-Adieux-Friends-My Last Adieu-Last View of Rome-Feelings experienced in leaving Rome MEMORIES OF ROME. CHAPTER I. Introductory Remarks—Advantages of Travel-Interest attaching to certain localities-No City more famous than Rome Rome compared with Jerusalem-Quotation from Rogers - The Wonders of Rome-Its Associations-Interesting Monuments instanced-The Arts in Rome-Religion in Rome-The Capital of Christendom— Piety and Decorum of the Romans-Examples-The interest of Rome felt by Travellers of every religious denomination-Other interesting localities compared with Rome-Superior interest of the Eternal City. STRANGE things are those old thoughts that so often knock for entrance to the heart!-those memories that crowd around us with their precious store of relics gathered and saved as we pass along upon the road of life! That sweet, faint remembrance of the past, with what a spell it sways us! Thought follows thought; each brings something with it—a pearl upcast from waves that are now dim and distant-a flower from fields that have long since been troddenand many, many 'sweet pictures of the loved olden times;-some, gay scenes, and fringed with light and gold; others, sad, and bound in darkness and ebony,all loved and treasured by the heart. We first think of these things we dream of them-and then the rest is feeling-deep, silent! From this we sometimes wake B to weep; but while it lasts how sweet it is! And this is not confined wholly to persons of a rich imagination; the poorest and the lowliest one has its bits of sunshine-its ancient bliss and sorrow, its old rude pictures of events and places. The peasant loves "the house where he was born;" he thinks with affection of the hills around it, which are radiant for ever with the brightness of his youth, and the river, whose familiar voice had once chimed into every sound of his lamentation and his joy. That summer lane is for ever beatified and canonized in his mind with the flood of a great happiness; and those dim, silent places are ever dark to him with the shadows of distress and death that once were on them. But meanly stocked, indeed, is the memory of the poor, illiterate, untravelled peasant, compared with the stately well-furnished recollection of him who has culled his treasures with care and taste amongst the brightest countries in the world. A thousand visions move his heart, which are not dreamt of by the natives who have never been expatriated from their home-soil. For it is not alone by the associations connected with our own existence that we are moved; scarcely less are we interested in localities. sacred to the heroes of our race,-storied ground, peopled with names and persons famous in the world's annals, the home of influences that have swayed the human kind, the repositories of the sublimest works of human genius. It is natural for us to seek these spots with eagerness,— -we feel ourselves brought nearer to the great spirits which seem ever to linger amongst them in the glory with which they are invested. Memory loves to dwell on them, and the mind is refined and exalted by the ideas which they suggest. It is of one of the most remarkable of these that I now propose to gather some recollections. I do not intend to write a history or a guide-book, but I will merely sketch a few of the thousand pictures of the Eternal City, on which I love to dwell in thought, and sometimes add what information my memory affords me at the moment. Considered in almost what light you will, there is no city in the world more famous, more wonderful, than this city of Rome. Jerusalem has a greater attraction, in one point of view; but many of the most important relics which once made Jerusalem the universal centre of pilgrimage are now to be seen in Rome; and in any other way the Syrian village cannot bear a moment's comparison with "the mistress of the world." Rome, "As though Grandeur attracted grandeur, are beheld All things that strike, ennoble; from the depths Within those silent chambers where they dwell, In In Rome is crowded together all that is most interesting and most glorious to behold; the most valuable museums and the richest libraries, the finest pictures and the noblest statues, the most graceful fountains |