will merely add, with regard to this subject, that if the perusal of the present volume shall fill a few idle hours for any one as pleasantly as its composition has done for me, I shall have fully accomplished the only object for which I wrote; and if it shall correct a single false notion, or give one more accurate idea concerning any subject of which it treats-if it shall increase in the slightest degree the respect and veneration which is due to Rome, not only as the capital of religion, but also as the parent of civilization—or, if it shall help a single individual to understand more clearly the amiable character, the lofty qualities of head and heart with which its illustrious ruler is adorned, I shall feel myself rewarded even beyond my highest expectations.

38, MAIN STREET, KINSALE,

March 25th, 1859.

D. O'D.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

Introductory Remarks-Advantages of Travel-Interest attaching to

certain localities-No City more famous than Rome-Rome com-

pared with Jerusalem-Quotation from Rogers - The Wonders of

Rome-Its Associations-Interesting Monuments instanced-The

Arts in Rome-Religion in Rome-The Capital of Christendom—

Piety and Decorum of the Romans-Examples-The interest of

Rome felt by Travellers of every religious denomination-Other

interesting localities compared with Rome-Superior interest of the

Eternal City-Page 1-8.

CHAPTER II.

A FEW PICTURES OF ST. PETER'S.

-

Arrival in Rome-First glimpse of St. Peter's-Appearance of the

Great Basilica by night-Visit to St. Peter's-The Piazza-The

Colonnade-The Dome-The Obelisk-Emotion on entering the

Church-The interior-My impressions-All idea of distance lost

in its exact proportions - Measurement of some of its details -

Examination of individual objects-Glorious Works of Art-Feelings

on looking up into the Dome-The Chair of St. Peter-Ornaments

of the Church-Feelings on leaving St. Peter's-Ascent of the

Dome-Population on the roof-Glance into the Church-Cele-

brated view from the top-Second glance into the Church—The

Ball-Descent into the Crypt-Shrine of the Apostles-The

Sacristy-The Golden Rose-St. Peter's seen under every variety

of circumstance- Points de vue- - Illumination of the Church -

Extraordinary equability of temperature in St. Peter's-How pro-

duced--The mind improved by a visit to this wonderful Church-

Page 9-19.

-

The Coliseum-Admiration of this glorious ruin-Comparison with St.

Peter's-Walk from my hotel-The Gesù-Temple of Jupiter Capi-

tolinus-Now occupied by the Church and Convent of the Ara Cœli

-The Bambino-The Capitol-The Forum-Ruins of the Imperial

Palace-Basilica of Constantine-Reflections-Arch of Titus-Arch

of Constantine-Meta Sudans-The Coliseum-A few figures-Some

description of the building-Fine masonry-Obligation to the Popes

for the preservation of this noble Monument-Admirable idea of

Pius IX-The Arena-Reflections-Wild beasts-Human victims-

Bull-feast in the Fourteenth Century-The Coliseum placed under

the protection of the Holy Martyrs-Various purposes to which it

has been converted-Its present state-Origin of its name—.
- Page

20-27.

CHAPTER IV.

OTHER VIEWS OF THE COLISEUM.

Italian moonlight-Extraordinary Phenomenon-Visit to the Coliseum

by Moonlight-Peculiarly beautiful and impressive aspect which it

then presents-Opinion of Matthews-Lord Byron's description-

Devotions of the "Via Crucis "-Reflections-Historical Remi-

niscences--Religious Discourses in the Coliseum-Reference made to

one in particular-The Franciscan Father-Leaving the Coliseum—

Words of the Venerable Bede-(Quotation from Madame de Staël in

the note)-Page 28-36.

CHAPTER V.

MY FIRST VISIT TO THE VATICAN.

The Royal Staircase-Reflections-The Sala Regia-Brilliant Assembly

- Capella Sistina-The Frescoes-The Last Judgment-The Cardi-

nals-Anecdote of an Englishman-The Pope-Feelings on first

beholding the Sovereign Pontiff-His Appearance-Opinion of a

Protestant Clergyman-Anecdote of a noble Lady-Allusion to the

Generosity of the Pope towards the Irish-Dignified Assembly of

the Pope and the Princes of the Church-Midnight Mass-Mass at

S. Luigi-Remark of a French Gentleman on the Appearance of the

Holy Father and the Cardinals-Page 37–48.

CHAPTER VI.

A STROLL THROUGH THE GALLERIES OF THE VATICAN.

The Sala Ducale-Galleries of Raphael—Rooms of Raphael-Remarks on

Raphael's Style of Painting-Raphael compared with Michael Angelo

-The "School of Athens "-Other Works of this great Master—

The Library—The Stanza de' Papiri—Manner in which the Books are

kept-Curious Works in Print and Manuscript-Books condemned

in the Index-Beautiful Vases and other Ornaments-Sacred Objects,

&c. of early Christian Times-Fine Collection of Byzantine and

Mediæval Italian Painting-Various other curious and interesting

Objects-The Librarians of the Vatican-Some remarkable ones—

-Page 49-56.

CHAPTER VII.

A FEW SKETCHES TAKEN IN THE VATICAN.

The "Apollo Belvedere"-Feelings on beholding this wonderful Statue

—Lord Byron's Lines-The Laocoon-Compared with the Apollo—

Opinions of Pliny and Michael Angelo-Description-Painful Appear-

ance of Reality-View from the Balcony-Byron quoted again—The

Antinous of the Vatican-General View of the Vatican Museum-Its

glorious Treasures-Feelings experienced in walking through the

splendid Halls-The Picture Gallery-The most wonderful Collection

ever made-The Transfiguration-The Communion of St. Jerome-

Admiration of these unrivalled Works-Comparison-The Madonna

da Foligno-Remarks on the Figures of St. Francis and the Angel

-Extent of the Vatican-Page 57-64.

CHAPTER VIII.

CHRISTMAS IN ROME.

Ceremonies during the night-Beautiful singing of the French Nuns-

Celebrations in the Choir-chapel of St. Peter's-The celebrated Offer-

tory-Solemn appearance of St. Peter's by daybreak-Early devotion