properly so called. These generally last more than four hours in succession, and few tasks can be more onerous and exhausting. Princes, cardinals, bishops, ambassadors, priests, and the faithful, come from every quarter of the globe to pay their homage to the successor of Peter, and to consult the infallible authority on earth, with regard to matters of the gravest interest to religion and the highest importance to society. When finished, at about two or half-past two o'clock, the Pope proceeds to his dining-hall, where his fare is of the most frugal nature. He then recites, again

on his knees, another portion of the Breviary; and at three he drives out to take a little exercise. Frequently, indeed, even these very drives have an object beyond that of recreation; for the Pope rarely returns without visiting some church where a feast is celebrated, or some institution where his presence may be a consolation or an encouragement. At the close of the day, -indicated in Italy by the sound of the Ave Maria,— the Pope re-enters his palace, and recites, with his suite, the Angelus, adding the De Profundis for the eternal rest of all those who have died that day throughout the world. The audiences are then recommenced, papers are submitted to His Holiness for signature, and the decrees of the different Roman congregations are laid before him for his sovereign approval and final decision. With these he is occupied until ten or eleven o'clock at night, when he retires to take a slight collation, consisting merely of some fruit and vegetables. He then finishes the recital of his office, and afterwards takes a few hours' repose,

to prepare him for the coming day-to be spent in the same saintly and laborious manner.

With very rare exceptions, such are the days of the Pope. Who will not say that a life like this, notwithstanding the honours which attend it, is a continued subjection, an incessant abnegation of self? To the duties of a temporal sovereign and a spiritual father the Pope has added the unbounded cares which the interests and concerns of the Universal Church bring to him whom God has appointed to be its head. One thing alone can bear him through his labours; and that is, the consolation of working for God in the highest state to which He could have raised him, and performing ever His holy will. Entering into the Divine views, and discharging his onerous duties with the untiring zeal and exalted piety for which our present Holy Father is so remarkable, his life must merit before the Lord a great and blessed recompense.

The part of the palace which the Pope inhabits, though in itself magnificent, like all the other halls of the Vatican, is yet decorated with the most extraordinary simplicity. The walls are merely covered with scarlet; and, except the Pontifical throne, there are no other seats but armchairs of wood. After passing a long range of apartments, the first of which are set apart for the attendants and the guard, according to their rank, and the next for the different persons that compose the Pope's household, we come to the part especially designed for His Holiness. Having had the honour of being presented to the Holy Father, I passed through these apartments, and I can

assure my reader that they are even smaller and more simple still than the rest. The first of these is the study, where he grants the numerous audiences; the second is the Pope's bed-chamber, at the end of which may be seen his bed, draped with red silk; the third is the dining-room, where his Holiness eats alone, from a table also covered with red silk; and the fourth and last of the suite is the library, a large and handsome apartment, where the Pope usually holds the council of ministers.

As I have referred to the subject of my presentation to the Pope, I shall conclude this chapter with a brief account of it, for the benefit of those of my readers who may intend seeking the honour of an interview with his Holiness. In the first place, my application for an audience was presented by a distinguished friend of mine to Monsignore Maestro di Camera, or Grand Chamberlain of the Pope. I had not long to wait, as, owing to the exertions of my friend, I believe my application met with more than usually prompt attention. A week or two at furthest after it was made, a dragoon rode down from the Vatican, bearing me the notification of the time at which I was to be received by his Holiness. At the appointed hour I presented myself, and was at once ushered by one of the private chamberlains into the presence of the first sovereign of the world. The chamberlain knelt with me at the threshold, and then departed, leaving me alone with his Holiness. I continued to perform the two other genuflections customary on entering the presencechamber of the Pope-one after having advanced half

way through the room, and the other immediately at the feet of the Holy Father; and was bending to kiss the cross upon his sandal, when he kindly lifted me, and prevented the act of obeisance which is usually paid to the Head of the Church. His Holiness was seated in an armchair richly gilt, and covered with scarlet velvet; over him was suspended a dais, or canopy, of the same rich colour, emblazoned with the pontifical and royal arms; and before him was a large square table, covered with silk. He spoke long and familiarly on various subjects (which it would be imprudent to mention here), and when the audience was over, and I had obtained the benediction of his Holiness, he rung a small hand-bell which stood upon the table, and another visitor was introduced.

Gentlemen alone are thus received into the private apartments of the Pope; ladies, except royal princesses and crowned heads, being merely presented in the galleries of the Vatican. As gentlemen's costume is evening dress or uniforms, ladies are obliged to appear in black dresses and veils on these occasions. The opportunity of an audience is generally availed of to have rosaries, crucifixes, and medals blessed by his Holiness. They should be presented in a box, and the crosses must be rather large, as it is not proper that the Papal benediction should be attached to objects which, from their smallness, are liable to be lost.

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CHAPTER XXI.

A RAMBLE THROUGH THE PALACES.

The Pontifical Palaces-The Lateran-The Quirinal-Incidental Remarks on the Revolution-Palazzo Barberini-Borghese-Braschi –Campana—Palazzo della Cancelleria-Chigi—Colonna-Corsini —Martial quoted-Curia Innocentiana Doria-Pamphili-FarneseFrescoes-Farnesina-Palazzo Massimi delle Colonne-SciarraSpada Statue of Pompey-Quotations from Shakspeare and Byron -Palazzo Vidoni or Caffarelli-Raphael.

HAVING devoted so many pages in the chapter before last to the subject of the churches, I can scarcely avoid some mention of the palaces, which, after the superb monuments of religion, form the most magnificent ornaments of the modern city. Besides the Vatican, of which I have already spoken, there are two other Pontifical palaces-the Lateran and the Quirinal, which, like the great Basilicas, would each require a separate chapter to do them justice, but which, like them also, can receive little more than mention in a work such as the present.

The Lateran, which stands close to the cathedral of that name, was the residence of the Popes up to the year 1377, when Gregory XI. took up his abode permanently in the Vatican. It was converted into an hospital for the reception of two hundred and fifty orphans by Innocent XII., and into a museum by the late Pope, in order to render it useful to the city, and to prevent the dilapidation into which it would other