words were highly appropriate, and in the very best taste.

Large orchestras of military music performed in the squares opposite the several palaces during the receptions of each evening, while all the public places and the residences of the princes were illuminated in honour of the auspicious event.

These were scenes which indeed enlivened the season of mortification, but otherwise, as I have said, the first six weeks of the Lent in Rome had no attractions for the pleasure-seeker. The last week, as we know, is remarkable for the greatest of all the Roman sights; but to these I must devote another chapter. Let me close the present by a sketch of one of these conversazioné at which I recollect being present, and which may be taken as a type of that class of entertainment wherein, as I before remarked, the evenings of the Roman Lent are generally passed.

A friend of mine calls with his carriage to take me to the house of some acquaintance to whose circle he has asked permission for my introduction. We are ushered into the drawing-room, where a large number is already assembled. I am presented to the lady of the house, her two daughters, a dignified old gentleman, who turns out to be the paterfamilias, and one or two of the principal guests. I am soon "at home"-there is no stiffness in the manners of those Italians, all is elegant and easy-and in a moment I find myself poking amongst albums and portfolios with as much zeal, and talking with as much vehemence and empressement, as if for years I had been accustomed to sit every evening

amongst them, though most of the company I had seen for the first time that night.

I am engaged with a stereoscope, into which a Commander of Malta is inserting the views, when the door opens the Marquis of A is introduced, and a Adashing young officer enters the room. He is one of

the Noble Guard, and I conclude from the name, and the exclamations of the children of the house-" 0 Pepino! zio mio!"-that he is a younger brother of my amiable hostess.

The door again opens; a lady enters, and the greetings with which the "Contesina" is received mark the high rank of this distinguished visitor. I am introduced to her, and she proves to be the sole child and heiress of one of the loftiest families in Rome.

Once more the door opens-"O Monsignore stimatissimo!"-a flash of joy lights up every countenance, and all rise to meet the venerable Bishop of R, who is uncle to the lady that has just preceded him.

A few more guests follow, and soon the room is filled with an assemblage of rank and fashion, brilliant in no ordinary degree. Conversation turns on various topics -now there is a debate on some point of politics, in which all join together-now Monsignore gives an account of his travels, and is interrupted only by an occasional question. There are some interesting

*The initial letters in this sketch are, for obvious reasons, not the correct ones.

asides, too, in which "the present opera, the last festival, and the next marriage" are discussed; but all is lively, sparkling, animated. The fancy of the Italian, his impressibility, quickness of perception, clearness of thought, and fluency of expression, give a charm to every subject he touches, which is heightened by the flowing, musical character of his language, and the graceful accompaniment of his appropriate gestures.

Music, cards, and dominos fill up the intervals of conversation; and the evening, though not particularly gay, is pleasant and amusing at least. For a stranger particularly, an Italian conversazione will have many attractions, as I know no circumstances under which the true character and disposition of the people may be better studied. And those who have opportunities of enjoying such a treat will do well to avail themselves of them. I am sorry to say, that of the "English" in Rome very few indeed are to be met at these "reunions." I know not whether this is attributable to their national antipathy for foreigners, their ignorance of the language, or the exclusiveness of the Roman nobility, which, in the case of strangers, is so strict; but whatever the cause may be, I would heartily rejoice to see it removed, as, until then, I believe my countrymen will never form as high an opinion of Italian manners and education as in reality they deserve.

Once introduced on such an occasion as I have described, you are expected to call on the gentleman or lady of the house within a few days after; and you

are then at liberty to join their social circle on any evening that you choose. The very fact of such daily generalities existing in Italian society speaks much, I think, in its favour; as they must naturally spread kindly influences and good feeling amongst all who participate in them.

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CHAPTER XVI.

THE HOLY WEEK.

Return of Sight-seers-Splendour of the Ceremonies of Holy WeekPalm-Sunday--Distribution of Palms-Procession-High MassSinging of the Passion, &c.-The Tenebræ and Miserere-Washing of the Pilgrims' feet at La Trinità de' Pellegrini-Holy Thursday-High Mass in the Sistine-Procession to the Capella Paolina-Lavanda at St. Peter's-The Cena- All the Galleries of the Vatican openOther Sights at St. Peter's-Second Miserere in the Sistine--The Pauline-Shops of the Pizzicaruoli-Good Friday-Mass of the Presanctified-Solemnity of the Ceremonies on this Day—Singing of the Pope's Choir-Procession from the Pauline-The last Miserere— Veneration of the Relics-Close of Evening at St. Peter's-Holy Saturday-Peculiar Ceremonies-The Gloria-Ceremonies at S. Giovanni in Laterano.

FAST as the crowds of sight-seers poured out from Rome at the commencement of Lent, they return with even immense addition to their numbers for the ceremonies of the Holy Week. These world-famed celebrations, whose unequalled beauty and splendour attract such overwhelming multitudes annually to the Eternal City, commence on Palm-Sunday, by the distribution of the palms, the procession, and the High Mass at the Papal Altar of St. Peter's. The palms are distributed first to the cardinals, next to the archbishops, bishops, the corps diplomatique, the canons of St. Peter's, the heads of religious orders, and, lastly, to the military and a few private individuals. The procession is then formed, of whose grandeur of scale