They are not ridden as in our races, but small balls of lead, with sharp steel points attached to loose straps, connected with a girth, which goes round the body of each, take the place of whip and spur in exciting their speed. Sheets of thin tin, stiff paper, or some other substance, are also fastened on the horse's back; and the rustling or rattling noise of these, together with the shouts of the people, unite to increase their emulation. The most interesting part of the sight is that which takes place when they are just about to start. A strong rope, secured by a machine on each side, is drawn across the Corso; and up to this each man tries to bring his horse, holding it in with all his might by the head. Many of the peasantry in the neighbourhood of Rome are remarkably fine muscular men; and as they generally go to work with their arms and neck bared, and as they have frequently to maintain a struggle of downright strength with their excited horses, the action of their limbs and muscles presents many fine studies for the pencil and the chisel. An officer blows a trumpet from a balcony near the spot; at its sound the rope drops, the grooms let go their hold, and off start the horses like arrows from a bow. They rush along in mad career through the midst of the people, showing sometimes their emulation and spite by biting at each other, and stop not till they dash their heads through the canvas screen, or ripressa dei barberi, at the end of the Piazza di Venezia. The judge of the race is the Governor of Rome, and the prize is an ornamental flag given to the owner of the winning horse. Though betting, which gives such a perilous interest to our race-course, is by no means common, nothing can exceed the eagerness of the Italians on these occasions. During the heat, the spectators honour with deafening "bravos" the horse that runs well, and hiss and hoot with almost equal noise such as lag behind. During the first six days of the carnival, which is limited to eight, matches of mares, barbs, and other horses are run alternately; but during the two last days, these different classes of animals run all together, and thus naturally increase the tumult and excitement of the exhibition. When the race is over, the Ave Maria is heard to ring, and the public at once returns to its ordinary routine of business or recreation. No unusual thronging or scenes of riot are observable in the streets at night; and though a few persons may be discovered in cafés, a little elevated, you will never find them overcome by the potations of Bacchus. In the evenings there are masquerade balls at the Apollo and the Argentina, and they are crowded by all who can afford to hire a domino, and purchase a ticket for the occasion. But the prettiest, wildest, and most original sight of all is that of the Moccoletti, which takes place on the last evening of the carnival. I had the pleasure of seeing this delightful spectacle, under all the favourable circumstances of a clear night and starry skies, and there are few things which I have ever seen that I would more gladly witness again. The display of myriads of tapers, borne by hundreds of passengers in the streets, held out from carriages, and put forth by thousands of hands from every window and baley— the playful warfare of extinguishing and defending them by every possible contrivance-te variou picturesque groupings, and the architectural WAT of the fine rectilinear street, extending & II length, presented altogether a scene of air-le vaur and a charm of pageantry quite indeveriana at LI to be compared to any other qera i zazn This delightful addition to the other extrasmaaie d the Roman carnival was the lates mo duced during the last century, at a zeza remained unimitated in the gee I ar ne To some the sports of the absurd, if not utterly distan known the darker aspects of vir le at a ter shadows-those who have it existence, and forget the outer world where the with their attendance in L stifled every kinder aut asser respect tion, in which the Church endeavours, by more than ordinary appeals from the altar and the pulpit, to counteract its worldly attractions, take place in many of the temples of the city, with circumstances of unusual magnificence, and are attended by extensive congregations. The Jesuit Fathers, in particular, are pre-eminent for their exertions at this season, as well as the unequalled splendour of the ceremonies and beauty of the decorations in their churches. The exposition of the Holy Sacrament takes place with resplendent illumination on those days; and every evening a procession may be seen winding its way with torch and crucifix, through the Forum and the most renowned ruins of the Imperial City, and on to the great amphitheatre beyond, where crowds attend to perform the service of the Via Crucis, in whose simple devotions the carnival rout no longer receives an echo, and their minds are removed to the greatest distance from the sphere of its frivolous amusements. The hymn of the hooded choir softens, with its heavenly harmony, the recollection of the boisterous mirth that they have left, and the solemn prayer to which all respond, mingles with and purifies the memory of those more worldly sounds which had previously rung frequent on their ears. 127 CHAPTER XV. THE LENT IN ROME. The Flight of Sight-seers—No Amusements during Lent-Ash-Wednesday in the Sistine-Sermons delivered during Lent-Fasting in Rome-Piety of the Romans particularly noticeable in Lent―The Scala Santa-The Annunciation-Interesting Ceremony of the Distribution of Dowries—Partiality of the Italians towards this admirable Charity-Encouraged by the Pope-Creation of Cardinals —Their Receptions-Complimentary Remarks of Cardinal Antonucci on the Character of the Irish-Description of a Roman Conversazione -Manners of the Italians-Their Powers of Conversation-These reunions not sufficiently frequented by the English. No sooner is the Carnival over, than crowds begin to fly from Rome-out from every gate pour private carriage, and diligenza, and vettura,* bearing away their hundreds to warmer winter-quarters or gayer scenes; the first six weeks of the Roman Lent have no attractions for the pleasure-seeker. The trumpet is blown in Zion, and fasting, and weeping, and mourning have succeeded the festivity of the season that is past. Theatres and opera-houses are closed, balls are forbidden, and a concert at the Braschi Palace or the Chiesa Nuova, and a quiet conversazione at the house * Public carriages, it is only just to say, are remarkably good in Rome. The vetturini abound principally about the Osteria dell' Orso, beyond the Palazzo Borghese, and the office of the Pontifical diligences which are on the French model—coupé, intérieur, and banquette-is in the same building as the post-office. |