60

MONS. L'ABBE.-MADAME G.

and colour, which had a bad effect; but I was informed, upon making the remark, that they had lost many in battle, and had not had time properly to replace them; but they were all strong and fiery, and went through their evolutions with surprising swiftness.

At dinner our party was very agreeable: a little abbé sat next to me, who appeared to be in years, but full of vivacity, and seemed to be much esteemed by every person present. During the time of terror (as the French emphatically call the gloomy reign of Robespierre), the blood of this good man, who, from his wealth, piety, and munificence, possessed considerable influence in Rouen, was sought after with keen pursuit. Madame G was the protectress of his life, by concealing him, previous to her own imprisonment, for two years, in different cellars, under her house, which she rendered as warm and as comfortable as circumstances, and the nature of the concealment, would allow. In one of these cells of humane secresy, this worthy man has often eaten his solitary and agitated meal, whilst the soldiers of the tyrant, who were quartered in

BRIDGE OF BOATS.

61

the house, were carousing in the kitchen imme-. diately above him.

Soon after our coffee, which, in this country, immediately succeeds the dinner, we went to view

the bridge of

This curious stru gustine friar nam posed of timber which contain t feet in length; it the quay of Ro Fauxbourg of St munication with

so celebrated in history.

was contrived by an Auichael Bougeois: it is comularly paved, in squares es, and is about 1000* nces from the middle of reaches over to the

nd carries on the comy which lies south of

in the

the city. It was -gun year 1626; below it are the ruins of the fine bridge of 12 arches, built by the empress Maud, daughter of Henry I. of England. This ingenious fabric rests upon 19 immense barges, which rise and fall with the flowing and subsiding of the tide. When vessels have occasion to pass it, a portion of the platform sufficient to admit their passage is raised, and rolled over the other part. In the winter, when any danger is apprehended from the large flakes

* The French feet are to the English as 1068 to 1000.

of ice, which float down the river, the whole is taken to pieces in an hour. The expense of keeping it in repair is estimated at 10,000 livres, or 400 pounds sterling per annum, and is defrayed by government, it being the Upon the whole, although admired, I must confess

a heavy performance, uns

road to Picardy.

ridge is so much

ppeared to me

e to the wealth

and splendour of the city of Rouen, and below the taste and ingenuity of modern times. A handsome light stone structure, with a centre arch covered with a drawbridge, or a lofty flying iron bridge, would be less expensive, more safe, and much more ornamental.

The view from this bridge up the Seine, upon the islands below mount St. Catherine, is quite enchanting. Upon the quay, although it was Sunday, a vast number of people were dancing, drinking, and attending shows and lotteries: here foreigners from various parts of the Continent, parading up and down in their national habits and dresses, produced quite the effect of a lively masquerade. The river Seine is so deep at this place, that ships of three hundred tons bur

THE EXCHANGE.-THEATRE.

63

den are moored close to the quay, and make a very fine appearance. The Exchange for the merchants is parallel with the centre of the quay, and is a long paved building of about 400 feet in length, open at top, having a handsome iron balustrade, and seats towards the Seine, and a high stone wall towards the town. Over all the great gates of the city, is written, in large characters, Liberty, Equality, Humanity, Fraternity or Death :" the last two words have been painted over, but are still faintly legible.

In the evening we went to the French opera,. which was very crowded. The boxes were adorned with genteel people, and many beautiful young women. The theatre is very large, elegant, and handsome, and the players were good. I was struck with the ridiculous antics and gestures of the chef in the orchestra, a man whose office it is to beat time to the musicians. In the municipality box, which was in the centre, lined with green silk, and gold, were two fine young women. who appeared to be ladies of fashion and consequence: they were dressed after the antique, in an attire which, for lightness, and scantiness,

I never saw equalled, till I saw it surpassed at Paris. They appeared to be clothed only in jewels, and a little muslin, very gracefully disposed the latter, to borrow a beautiful expression, had the appearance of "woven air."From emotions of gratitude, for the captivating display which they made, I could not help offering a few fervent wishes, that the next day might find them preserved from the dreaded consequences of a very bitter cold night.

Rouen, which, upon the whole, is a fine city, and very large and populous, was formerly the capital of the kingdom of Normandy: it stands upon a plain, screened on three sides by high and picturesque mountains, and is near two leagues in compass, exclusive of the faux bourgs of St. Severs, Cauchoise, Bouveul, St. Hiliare, Martainville and Beauvisme. Its commerce was very celebrated, and since the peace is beginning again to rear its head. Most of the fine buildings in this city and its environs are Anglo-Norman antiquities, and were founded by the English before they left Normandy.

The cathedral, which is a grand and awful