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tude towards the English: they told us many little tales of the politeness and humanity which they had received from my countrymen in the various places where their destiny had placed them. One displayed, with amiable pride, a snuff-box, which he had received as a parting token of esteem, another a pocket book, and each was the bearer of some little affectionate proof of merit, good conduct, or friendship.

One of these gentlemen, the abbé de l'H whose face was full of expression, tinctured with much grief, and attendant indisposition, with a manner, and in a tone, which were truly affecting, concluded a little narrative of some kindness which he had received, by saying, "if the En

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glish and my country are not friends, it shall not "be for want of my prayers. I fled from France "without tears, for the preservation of my life, " but when I left England, I confess it, I could "not help shedding many." Such sentiments did not disgrace the generous abbé--such a nation is worthy of such feelings.

Our horses were of the Norman breed, small, stout, short, and full of spirit, and to the honour

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of those who have the care of them, in excellent condition. I was surprised to see these little animals running away with our cumbrous machine, at the rate of six or seven miles an hour.

We traced the desolating hand of the revolution as soon as we ascended the first hill.'

Our road lay through a charming country: upon the sides of whose acclivities, surrounded by the most romantic scenery of woods and corn fields, we saw ruined convents, and roofless village churches, through the shattered casements of which the wind had free admission.

We breakfasted at a neat town called Bolbec, seven leagues from Havre, where we had excellent coffee, butter, and rolls. All the household of our inn looked clean, happy, and sprightly.

This is the principal town of the province of Caux, the women of which dress their heads in a very peculiar, and, in my humble opinion, unbecoming manner. I made a hasty sketch of one of them who entered the yard of the inn with apples for sale.

Such a promontory of cap and lace I never before beheld. She had been at a village mar

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A Woman of the Province of Caux in Normandy.

Published April 19.1803. by J.Johnson St Paul's Church Yard.

NATIVES OF CAUX.

49

riage that morning, and was bedecked in all her finery. The people of this province are industrious and rich, and consequently respectable. At the theatre at Rouen I afterwards saw, in one of the front boxes, a lady from this country, dressed after its fashion; her singularity induced me to distinguish her from the rest of the audience, but excited no curiosity with any other person. Our breakfast cost us each fifteen sous, to which may be added two sols more for the maids, who waited upon us with cheerful smiles, in the full cushvois costume; our two sols also entitled us to kisses and curtsies. I beg leave to oppose our breakfast charge, and our subsequent expenses, to the rumours which prevailed in England, of this part of France being then in a state of famine. From this town, the road was beautifully lined with beech, chesnut, and apple trees. The rich yellow of the rape seed, that overspread the surface of many of the fields on each side, was very animating to the eye: from this vegetable, the country people express oil, and of the pulp of it make cakes, which the Norman horses

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