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METHOD OF WORK.

The teacher should begin the lesson by describing the method of making the cord, estimating the amount necessary, and demonstrating the process with the assistance of one of the girls. The girls should be numbered so that they can work in groups of two. After they have completed the cord, and run it into the bag, methods of finishing the ends neatly should be suggested to them.

FIG. 9.-Bodkin.

FIG. 10.-Completed bag.

From Junior Circular No. 26, Agricultural Extension De-
partment, Ames, Iowa.

LESSON IX. DARNING STOCKINGS.

Use of darning ball or gourd as a substitute for ball. Talk on care of the feet and care of the stockings.

SUBJECT MATTER.

This lesson will involve running and weaving. Darning is used to fill in a hole with thread so as to supply the part that has been de

stroyed or to strengthen a place which shows signs of weakness. A darning ball, gourd, or a firm piece of cardboard should be placed under the hole. The darn should extend one-quarter of an inch beyond the edge of the material, beginning with fine stitches in the material, making rows of stitching close together in one direction, then crossing these threads with rows that run at an angle to them. Care should be taken to alternately pick up and drop the edge of the material about the hole so that no raw edges will be left and to weave evenly in and out of the material and of the cross threads.

PRELIMINARY PLAN.

Each girl should provide a pair of stockings with a few small holes and a gourd or ball of some sort that she can use for a darning ball.

FIG. 11.-Darning.

From Junior Circular No. 26, Agricultural Extension Department,

Ames, Iowa.

METHOD OF WORK.

When the class meets the teacher should discuss briefly the care of the feet, and of stockings, and demonstrate the method of darning on a large piece of coarse material with heavy yarn and a needle. If the girls finish one darn during the

lesson period, the making of another darn for practice outside of class should be assigned.

LESSON X. PATCHING.'

Hemmed patches on cotton garments. Talk on care of clothes.

SUBJECT MATTER.

This lesson will involve measuring, trimming, basting, and hemming. A patch is a piece of cloth sewed on to a garment to restore the worn part. The material used for the patch should be as nearly like the original fabric in color and quality as possible. In placing the patch, the condition of the material about the hole must be taken into consideration, as well as the size of the hole itself. The hole should be trimmed to remove worn parts near it. The patch should be 2 inches larger than the trimmed hole. The corners of the hole should be cut back diagonally, so that the edges may be turned

1 Used when special problem comes up.

under. The patch should be matched and pinned onto the large piece, leaving the edges of the patch to project evenly on all four sides. The edges of the material about the hole should be turned in and basted to the patch. The edges of the patch should be turned in so that they extend one-half inch from the edge of the hole when finished. The patch and the cloth should be basted together and hemmed.

PRELIMINARY PLAN.

The lesson on patching should be given at any time in the course when it can be applied to an immediate need. If a girl snags her dress while playing at school or if she wears a torn apron, the teacher can announce a patching lesson for the next sewing class, and request each girl to bring a torn garment and the material for the patch from home. It may be desirable to use two or three periods for this lesson.

FIG. 12.-Patching.

From Junior Circular No. 26, Agricultural Extension Department, Ames, Iowa.

METHOD OF WORK.

The teacher should demonstrate the various processes of patching on a large piece of muslin. The girls should practice placing a patch on a piece of paper with a hole in it Each process should be assigned in succession-examination of article, to determine its condition; calculation of size and preparation of patch; placing the patch; trimming the article about the hole; basting the patch and material together; and hemming the patch.

LESSON XI. CUTTING OUT APRONS OR UNDERGARMENTS.

SUBJECT MATTER.

When cutting out an apron, the length of the skirt should first be measured, and to this measure 6 inches should be added for hem and seams. One length of the material corresponding to this length

should be cut. This should be folded through the center lengthwise. Three-fourths of an inch should be measured down on this fold, and the material cut from the end of the selvage to this point in order to slope the front of the apron. When the waist measure is taken, 2 inches should be added to it (1 for the lap and 1 for finishing). Two pieces this length, and 24 inches wide, should be cut lengthwise of the material for the belt. A measure should be made from the middle of the back of the waist line, over the shoulder, to a point 5 inches to the right to the center front and on the waist line. Two pieces the length of this measure, and 41⁄2 inches wide, should be cut lengthwise of the material for the shoulder straps. A piece 9 by 12 inches should be cut for the bib, the longer distance lengthwise of the material. These measurements allow one-quarter inch for

seams.

k....

3/4 inch

FIG. 13.-Cutting out skirt of apron.

PRELIMINARY PLAN.

Previous to the lesson the teacher should see if arrangements can be made to secure the use of one or two sewing machines, so that the girls can sew all the long seams of their aprons by machine.

At a previous lesson she should discuss with the girls the material of which they can make their aprons. They should consider whether the apron should be white or colored, and whether it should be of muslin, cambric, or gingham. Each girl will need from 1 to 2 yards of material, according to her size. The taller girls will need 2 yards.

There should be on hand a sufficient number of tape measures, pins, and scissors, so that the girls can proceed with the cutting of their aprons with no unnecessary delay.

The apron to be made is to have skirt, bib, and shoulder straps, in order to be a protection to both dress, skirt, and waist.1

METHOD OF WORK.

As soon as the class meets, the girls should make the measurements for their aprons. One measurement should be assigned at a time and the reason for each measurement given. The girls should follow the measurements explicitly, as they are apt to become confused if directions are complicated. They should work carefully so that the material does not become mussed or soiled, and at the conclusion of the lesson they should fold it carefully and put it away neatly. All threads and scraps of material should be carefully picked up off the floor, and the room left in order.

FIG. 14.-Uneven basting.

LESSON XII. APRONS OR UNDERGARMENTS (Continued).

Basting the hem for hemming on the machine or by hand. Uneven basting.

SUBJECT MATTER.

An uneven basting forms the better guide for stitching. In uneven basting the stitches are made about twice as long as the spaces between. The stitch should be about one-fourth of an inch on the upper side of the material and one-eighth inch on the under side.

1 If the girls are very inexperienced and find the sewing difficult, it may be advisable to omit the bib and straps and to make the simple full-skirted apron. If a machine is not at hand to use for the long seams, the limits in time may make the simpler apron necessary. This will give more time for the various processes. Lessons XIV and XV can then be omitted, Lesson XVI made simpler, and less outside work required.

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