toward the worker. It is held in place with the thumb. The stitch is begun at the end of the hem. The fastening of the thread is concealed by slipping it underneath the hem in the inside fold of the material. The needle is pointed over the left shoulder, a small stitch is taken through the material just under the hem, then through the edge of the hem. This is repeated, making the next stitch nearer the worker, and moving the goods from right to left away from the worker as necessary. Uniformity of slant, size, and spacing of stitches is important.

FIG. 5.-Hemming.

PRELIMINARY PLAN.

Before this lesson is given, all the girls should report to the teacher with both ends of their towels basted so that they will all be ready to proceed at once with the new stitches.

METHOD OF WORK.

The teacher should begin the lesson by demonstrating the stitches to be used on the large square of canvas, with the large needle and heavy thread. After overhanding the end of the hem, the hemming stitch should follow with the same thread. The girls will probably not be able to finish the hemming in this first lesson, so provision should be made for additional time. This can be required as an out

side assignment, if they have mastered the method during the class period. The teacher may be able to give them some supervision while she is looking after other classes.1

LESSON IV. BAGS.

A school bag. Bag (made of material obtainable) to hold sewing materials or the cooking apron. Measuring and straightening the material for the bag. Basting the seams.

SUBJECT MATTER.

The basting stitch will be used as a review of work in the second lesson.

PRELIMINARY PLAN.

At some previous time the teacher should talk with the girls about what material they will be able to provide for their bags, and, if the material has to be purchased, she should suggest something that is suitable, washable, and inexpensive. The bag should cost only a few cents. If the bag is to be used for carrying the cooking apron back and forth from home, it must not be too light in color. The dimensions of the finished bag should be about 12 by 18 inches.

METHOD OF WORK.

The girls should get out the materials they have brought for their bags and determine upon their size and shape. It will not be necessary for them to make bags of uniform shape and size. The teacher should help them to use their material to the best advantage. The material should be straightened, pulled in place, and measured carefully. When the bags have been cut out, the sides should be basted up.

LESSON V. BAGS (Continued).

Sewing up the seams with a running stitch and a back stitch.

SUBJECT MATTER.

Running is done by passing the needle in and out of the material at regular intervals. Small, even stitches and spaces should follow consecutively on both sides of the material. The stitches should be much shorter than for basting, the length being determined largely by the kind of cloth used.

When running is combined with a back stitch, two or more running stitches and one back stitch are taken alternately. The back stitch is a stitch taken backward on the upper side of the cloth, putting the needle back each time into the end of the last stitch and bringing it out the same distance beyond the last stitch.

If the girls have time to do more hemming than the towels require, they may enjoy making simple curtains of plain mull or dotted swiss for the windows of the schoolroom. This work can be taken up in additional lesson periods or after school hours.

PRELIMINARY PLAN.

The teacher should be sure that all the teachers are ready to report, with the sides of their bags basted ready for stitching.

METHOD OF WORK.

The teacher should first demonstrate the running stitch with the back stitch, and the girls should begin to sew up the sides of the bag, using the running stitch. They should commence the running stitch at three-fourths of an inch from the upper end of the bag, so that there will be a space left for slits in the hem to run the cord.1 The

seams will doubtless have to be finished outside of the class hour and should be assigned for completion before the next lesson.

LESSON VI. BAGS (Continued).

Overcasting the seams and turning the hem at the top of the bag.

SUBJECT MATTER.

Overcasting is done by taking loose stitches over the raw edge of the cloth to keep it from raveling or fraying.

1 The draw string or cord is to be run through the hem from the inside of the bag and it will be necessary to leave three-fourths of an inch of space at the ends of the seams to provide slits for the cord outlets.

PRELIMINARY PLAN.

The teacher should be sure that all the girls are ready to report, with the sides of their bags neatly sewed up with the running stitch.

METHOD OF WORK.

The teacher should demonstrate the method of overcasting and explain its use. She should have the girls trim the edges of their seams neatly and overcast them carefully. After the seams have been overcast, she should discuss with the girls the depth of the hem that they expect to use and the method of turning and basting it. The girls should turn and baste the hems, using the cardboard measure for securing the depth of the hem. If the bags are deep enough to admit of a heading at the top, a deep hem (about 24 inches) can be made and a running stitch put in one-half inch (or

FIG. 7.-Overcasting.

more) above the edge of the hem to provide a casing or space for the cord. If it is necessary to take a narrow hem, the hem itself can be made to answer as space for the cord; in this case the hem should be made about one-half inch deep.

LESSON VII. BAGS (Continued).

Hemming the top of the bag, putting in running stitch to provide a space for the cord.

SUBJECT MATTER.

Review of hemming stitch and running stitch.

PRELIMINARY PLAN.

The girls should report to the class with the hems basted.

METHOD OF WORK.

The teacher should review briefly with the girls the method of making the hemming stitch and the running stitch, asking them to describe these stitches and to demonstrate them on the large square of canvas before the class. The basted hems should then be sewed down with the hemming stitch.

After the hem is finished the girls should run a basting thread around the bag to mark the location of the running stitch that is to be half an inch above the hem. They should measure for this carefully with the cardboard rule.

If there is not time to do all the hemming in the class period, the hemming stitch and the running stitch (that is to provide space for the draw string) should be assigned for outside work, and each girl should bring in her finished hem at a designated time before the next class period.

LESSON VIII. BAGS (Continued).

Preparing a cord or other draw string for the bag. Putting in a double draw string in the bag so that it can easily be drawn up. Use of the bodkin.

FIG. 8.-Bag nearly completed. From Junior Circular No. 26, Agricultural Extension Department, Ames, Iowa.

SUBJECT MATTER.

To make a cord, it is necessary to take more than four times as much cotton as the final length of the cord will require, for some of the length will be taken up in the twisting of the cord. The cord should be doubled, the two lengths twisted together firmly, and the

ends brought together again and held in one hand while the center is taken in the other hand, and the lengths are allowed to twist firmly together. The ends should be tied. It will be easier for two to work together in making a cord. The cord should be run into the bag with a bodkin or tape needle. If one cord is run in from one side, and another is run in from the other side, each cord running all the way around, the bag can be drawn up easily.

PRELIMINARY PLAN.

If the children are not able to supply cords for their own bags, the teacher should have a sufficient supply of cord on hand. She should be sure the girls' bags are in readiness for the cord before the class period: