VISITS TO THE COUNTRY CONTINUED.

LEAVING Grand Bay, at sun-rise, we proceeded towards the next estate we meant to visit, and the prospect, on all sides, was again new and interesting. Martinico appeared very distinctly, being only twenty miles distant, and St. Lucia was also visible. We had now got fairly to windward.

Our road was still rugged, precipitous, and dangerous, even in daylight. After a fatiguing ride of several hours, we reached the fine estate of Castle Bruce, then one of the most productive in the island. All looked fair and promising. My companion had been anxious to reach this estate, as two of the negroes had lately absconded, and were supposed to have gone off into the woods, and joined the run-aways. A military force had been some time at Grand Bay, to protect the estates to windward; as attacks, by these people, some years before, were not uncommon. In one of these, the gentleman on the estate, assisted only by the overseers and house-servants, and a lady, his sister-in-law, who loaded the musquets,

resisted, most heroically and successfully, until relieved by the military.

At the time of our arrival, we found the manager by no means at ease. The ground provisions had been more than once dug up; the plantain trees robbed, and stock carried away. Not unfrequently, the insurgents carried off, as prisoners, those whom they met with unarmed, and could not induce to join them by fair means; and it was, consequently, judged necessary to write to the commanding-officer at Grand Bay, for a party of military. On assembling the negroes, it was found that they had no cause of complaint; and that the late desertion of two of their number was

On

viewed with great uneasiness. At length, we heard a great blowing of shells, and horns, and other noises, proceeding from the fields; and, soon afterwards, one of the drivers appeared, and announced the return of the two absentees, escorted by a party of negroes from an adjoining estate, on which they had been apprehended, on their way back to Castle Bruce, of their own accord. inquiry, it appeared that they had been surprised by an armed body, and carried off. They were, therefore, rewarded for returning; and their good conduct was reported to the proprietor of the estate in England. They were also despatched as guides to the military, sent in pursuit of the run-aways, whose camp was found deserted.

Here, we found two droghers landing supplies of lumber, staves, &c. for this and the neighbouring estates, preparatory for crop time, and bringing rum, on their return-voyage to Roseau,-the residue of the last year's crop.

These droghers are sloops or schooners, of from thirty to one hundred tons burthen, and are generally navigated by a white or coloured master, and negro crews. The sugar and coffee, from the estates along the coast, are all shipped in these vessels, and in lighters, navigated by slaves, on the leeward side of the island. Canoes are used in all the colonies, as light boats for conveying passengers, fishing, &c. They are easily managed, well adapted for the surf, and always ready on the beach, with the boatmen within call, at the different towns in the West Indies. These boatmen are generally slaves, who are provided with a boat, and who pay their masters a certain sum of money weekly, appropriating the overplus to themselves.

Having passed two days at Castle Bruce, we proceeded next for Rosalie, another fine estate, lying in our route to Prince Rupert's. Thence, we had the pleasure of the Doctor's company, who was going on his weekly visits. Our road still lay along the edge of a precipitous chain of heights, rising in the back-ground into the fleecy clouds which often covered their tops. After

wards, along the sea-shore, the road became more practicable,

A few years before, Rosalie had been the scene of most savage and cruel attacks ; in one of which, the run-aways, unfortunately, succeeded in surprising and murdering all the white people on the estate, as well as several negroes; burning the works and houses, and carrying off much valuable property. A war of extermination ensued, and many of the savage and blood-thirsty depredators were killed in the woods, by the regular soldiers and militia; but the duty was found so severe, that a corps of free blacks was also formed; and, at last, the rebels surrendered, on condition of their lives being spared.

Our succeeding destination was to Sugar Loaf estate, situated within a mile of the garrison of Prince Rupert's. Every thing in the plantations was going on well, notwithstanding the health of the white people was in a deplorable condition : the manager was ill; one overseer was dead; and the other was scarcely able to leave his bed.

As I had business in the garrison, we rode over, next day, to call on some officers there, who obligingly accompanied us in riding round the works and fortifications, and insisted on our staying dinner.*

* The fortress of Prince Rupert's, (so called from Prince

Next day, we proceeded to Point Round and Macoucherie. We called at several plantations, which were now very numerous. We were again

Rupert, who commanded an armament, destined for Hispaniola, which put in to wood and water here, upwards of a century ago,) stands on two hills, having a narrow valley between them. The outer hill projects abruptly into the sea, over which it rises to a considerable height: on its top are two heavy long 32 pounders; with quarters, in time of war, for 200 officers and men. Farther down, there is another barrack, with an hospital and houses. A good road leads from Fort Shirley to the top. Fort Shirley is a regular fortification with two heavy batteries commanding the entrance of the bay, from this side, and under whose fire it is believed no ship or fleet could remain for any length of time, without being destroyed. Here also are barracks, bomb-proof magazines, &c. In the valley between the two hills, or cabarites, (as they are named, from the numbers of goats, which formerly de-pastured on their sides,) are situated the engineer officers' barrack, the Quarter-master-general's buildings, and a parade-ground, extending to the barrier on that side, which faces the sea, looking towards Guadaloupe, and where there are also heavy batteries, and barracks for 200 men. On the other hill, are barracks for 300 men, with batteries of heavy guns, commanding the whole of the inner defences. A swamp, half a mile broad, comes close to the base of this outer hill, the side of which is steep, and nearly inaccessible. At the barrier on the other side, facing the town of Prince Rupert's, is a battery with heavy guns and mortars; and another on the face of the hill, higher up. -The access to the garrison, from the sea, is by a fosse, or stone causeway, immediately under the guns of Fort Shirley. In time of peace, no white troops are stationed there, the station being