FIRST DAYS IN THE WEST INDIES.

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We had scarcely landed, when we were surrounded by the numerous groups of porters, hucksters, and idlers, white and black, which the arrival of even a single vessel fails not to assemble on the beach, and whose appearance was far from affording a favorable specimen of West Indian population. The numbers of poor, emaciated, and diseased people, of all ages and colours, and of both sexes, struck us with surprise and consternation. Altogether, the landing-place presents a scene on which the new comer looks, in vain, for any thing to reconcile him to his new country. Having reached the tavern, we found ourselves still in the midst of large parties from the fleet, all landed for the same purpose as ourselves,-to see the lions of Bridgetown, and contemplate the agrémens of a West Indian town. The heat of the sun, to which we were yet little accustomed, rendering rest and refreshment necessary, we ordered dinner at the proper hour, and some fruit

and sangaree for present need.* Having paid our respects to the oranges, pine-apples, and shaddocks, we determined, even at noon-day, to have a peep at the novelties of Bridgetown. We, accordingly, sallied forth, in company with another party, bound on similar discoveries, walking up one street and down another, remarking the great dissimilarity of all we saw, from all we had left. behind; and rather startled by the number of black faces we were constantly meeting: sometimes we stopped to admire the shape and beauty of the cocoa-nut and tamarind trees; at others, to gaze upon the neatness and airiness of nicely painted houses, fitted up to admit and not to exclude the breeze. At length, we reached the Cathedral, in which we were glad to take shelter, for a time, from the heat of the sun, and to indulge ourselves, in true John-Bull fashion, with half an hour's "meditation amongst the tombs." We had, several times, attempted to question the negroes passing, and to obtain information relative to different objects of our curiosity, but were able to comprehend little of their answers, as their broken English requires some time to be perfectly understood. Some of their observations, however,

* Sangaree is composed of wine and water, sugar or syrup, and nutmeg. It is an agreeable beverage, much used in the Colonies.

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we could not misunderstand: “ Ah! dem Buckra* no savey noting, dem just come in a England.” When walking round the Cathedral, the party were comforted by blacky's remark: "Ah! look dem Buckra, in a church-yard; dem get fever in de hot sun-dem soon come in a church-yard--dem go dead!"

The novelty of every thing around us—the consciousness that we were in a new country, and amongst a race of people to whose manners we were strangers-produced a degree of excitement in our feelings, which it was impossible to repress. Every thing we saw reminded us, that we were in a land of slavery; and, though in an English colony, that liberty, the glory and boast of Englishmen, was here denied to thousands of our fellow men; differing from us, it is true, in colour and intelligence, but still our fellow men. Every Briton, on first setting foot on West Indian soil, must, on this subject, experience sensations nearly allied to those of sorrow, sympathy, and regret.

To the new comer, every step he takes, every face he beholds, is interesting; for every feature of West Indian scenery is different from any thing he has seen in Europe, and different, too, from what he had pictured to himself. Our busy fancies had been excited unceasingly, during

* White people.

the voyage, to figure the country and people, in which, and with whom, we were to dwell; but, on our arrival, we were constrained to acknowledge that all was unlike-that our imagination had idly mocked us. In scenery, in people, in manners, in customs, in climate, in fruits, in flowers, every thing tells the European, that he has arrived in a new world. Nature is bright, and beautiful, and grand; but, even in "little Eng

land," as the natives of Barbados call that island, he finds little to reconcile him to the pictures of slavery and disease, which constantly meet his eye. The white population of this colony far exceeds in numbers that of any of the others. Most of them are Creoles, and dependent for subsistence on the labour of their hands, or the earnings of a few wretched and illfed negroes. Some of the coloured people are still worse off; and, in addition to other miseries, are afflicted with that deplorable species of leprosy, elephantiasis. Few of them have been well educated, or bred to any business or profession; or, if they have, they are too proud or indolent to follow it. The love of ease and pleasure has too much dominion over the West Indians, at all times; but in no other colony is the same number of unemployed whites to be met with as in Barbadosmany of them differing little in dress and mode of life from their slaves. Some, indeed, cultivate

their lands, raise stock, and sell fruits and vegetables, by which they earn a livelihood; but the majority prefer billiards, smoking, and drinking, to any useful employment. The active and enterprising merchants of the island form splendid exceptions from this censure. With them, wealth and good spirits, hospitality and kindness, walk hand-in-hand.

Carlisle Bay affords the best anchorage; and, during war, the fleets from England always anchored there. At the time of my arrival, Bridgetown was a place of great trade and universal resort. Vessels and merchants, from the other islands, were constantly arriving and departing with cargoes of European goods or American produce; and there were not wanting merchants in Barbados, whose bills passed in the United States as readily as Bank of England notes in Britain; some of them having been two or three years before they were presented in London for payment.-Bridgetown possesses many handsome houses and buildings, uniting elegance and convenience, not surpassed in any of the other English islands, and is superior to most in neatness and comfort.

Returning from our ramble, we dressed, dined, and then, with heart-felt regret, bade a long adieu to the agreeable and worthy family who had been our fellow passengers. My young friend and I